old-tank

Jaybird, you should try it an report back. I would buy from Summit Racing since they at least have pictures, more info and offer repair parts including a black distributor cap to replace that cheezy red one

OK, attached is all I got from you. The book does take you in circles. Look at post #15 again or call me for additional explanation. It may be time to substitute a known good generator and voltage regulator and/or a known good battery. If problem persists, then check wire integrity or substitute a new wire for each circuit until the problem resolves. Willie

A friend that did this changed the fulcrum point to achieve a 6:1 advantage...did not see how he did it, but he got another pedal assembly form one of my parts cars (fabricate? replace earlier FUBAR?).

You simply did not look very hard for someone to join you :eek:. And you should know by now that the standard instructions from ALL doctors is: "no alcohol and no sex" :cool: Willie

57buick.pdf Attachment that was sent. Go to view and rotate; I can't get it to stay rotated. Anyhow it seems that Darren is troubleshooting 'failure to crank' problems, which have nothing to do with run-on of the starter. If the starter button is shown to be good and that circuit is NOT still connected to the carb switch, then there is a persistent ground in the generator or voltage regulator after starting or a wiring problem like a short to ground or incorrect wiring attachments. Willie

If you don't have vapor lock you should keep doing what you are doing. The old leaded premium of many years ago would be less prone to vapor lock since it was less volatile and burned slower to minimize detonation. Since ethanol is a major volatile component and contributor to vapor lock and is a cheap octane booster, the current premium gas is more likely to have the most ethanol of your usual 3 choices. Gasoline is a mixture of components of varying volatility, and even if you add 4 ounces of an essentially non volatile substance you still have nearly 20 gallons of that volatile mixture. Adding 'stuff' (diesel, kerosene, marvel) never worked for me other than making a stinky car. The only thing that has a chance of working is a pump near the tank pushing fuel since vapor lock is always on the suction side of a pump (and even that did not work on my last trip above an elevation of 5000 ft). As far as octane use the lowest that will prevent detonation. Before ethanol, my 55's needed mid-grade...now there is no detonation even on the lowest octane gas. If you don't have vapor lock you should keep doing what you are doing. Willie

Early fabrication here: http://www.1954buick.com/showthread.php/7546-Hot-rod-Skylark page 5 around post #40. I wanted to see it, ride, drive...maybe next year.

Can you scan the page that says this? I don't get it either.

Cast iron; 52-56 front hub and drum assemblies (except Roadmaster) are the same.

Sometimes the door will not be grounded unless it is closed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

4905387 RH; 4905388 LH The repro should fit if it says it is a direct replacement. Note: to get it to work jump 12v negative to the body of the motor and 12v positive to either of the wires; not much goes wrong with those motors that disassembly and cleaning of the commutator will not solve. Pull the whole assembly out of the door and clamp in a vise, then clamp the arms with vise grips (think ahead) before removing the motor, or it will hurt you.

Don't give up too soon...there are already too many of those around. While perfection cannot be achieved, excellence can be. Pay the oldest dude you can find at a local body shop to have a go at it. This may help: http://www.autobodystore.com/martinsr.shtml but experience is key and none of us will do enough of these to get good at it. Believe me if it is shoddy, you will be the one aggravated by it every time you walk around the car. Willie

http://forums.aaca.org/f118/1950-special-modified-12v-efi-345328.html (I already had the page up...looks like the only way to drive my 55 in the mountains with this volatile crap for gas)

Backing plates have probably little value; drums = yes if not worn out of spec. The drums are the same as the rear if the rivets are removed, so could be saved for that. The bearings if still good are better than available replacements. Others can comment on the 57 ball joints which were 'loose' when new...looks like an original shock.

You have enough lube, but don't mess with replacing just the cable...replace the whole assembly.

Bummer! At least on a weekday you should be able to find a rental car if the repair is prolonged.

This wounded warrior can't make it happen: "Can't get there from here"

Ouch! Another 450 miles planned today. Youse guys aren't traveling with women I take it.

Them ol' boys are crazy...or thirsty!

460 miles to Plainview, TX 17.8 mpg. Even though we drove 300miles without using the a/c, it's hot now. Bummer Mike, after all that work and planning for a family vacation. Anyhow we'll see you in Portland and help you 'self medicate'. Willie

We're off! Next stop Lubbock/Amarillo area...

Much better than just 'nice'! I'll look for it in Portland.

John, Keep the 'shiny side up and the greasy side down' and post daily if you can. We will leave tomorrow am and may chase you down. Willie

Beer...food...entertainment...what could go wrong? I can't try them all so I will start with some Porters to chew on.

Ignition components like the coil and condenser will fail intermittently after a heat soak. Also the highly volatile available gas will percolate or boil the contents of the carburetor into the intake manifold causing flooding. Next time it happens slowly push the gas pedal to the floor and then turn on the key. Keep it floored until it starts, cranking in 5 second bursts, only turning the key on and off. Report back. Willie