NTX5467

From what I've seen over the years, each carline division had their own names for some of the same color formulas, so the correct interchange or crossover you might be looking for might be more in the PPG or other OEM paint supplier databases. Maybe even DupliColor (the OEM supplier of touch-up paint)? Seems like there was a link to a PPG listing for paint codes in one of these forums about three years or so ago? Other sources would be factory paint chip charts from the paint suppliers (if you can find a paint supply house that still has some) or the similar item supplied by the vintage literature vendors. The color code information could also be in the Buick parts books for that year range and also in the applicable GM-Buick factory chassis service manuals. In that earlier time, each GM carline division was their own basic operating entity, unlike in more current times. Fisher Body did run the assembly operations and could dictate some things to happen. There were also more single-model/brand assembly plants back then too, as I recall. Even if the paint code was the same, each division was at their own liberty to attach whatever name they desired to it. Other than black or white, few people were concerned that one color name in Buicks might be the same as another color name on Oldsmobiles--except in the body shop or paint supply business. Sometimes, it's a little easier to see the general scheme of things if you get into the replacement parts (in this case, somebody like PPG or RM or similar from back then) end of things rather than go in circles with factory production codes and such. I suspect their formula listings and paint chip pages would have the crossover information you might be desiring. Hope this helps, NTX5467

Some thoughts . . . Considering the GM part number for a 1978 Chevy 305/350 QJet was 1705____, your suspicion of a 1980 model year carb seems ballpark. Probably the best way to search for the vehicle application would be in a carb kit listing. By 1980, it seems that there were starting to be some electric choke assist items and a few other electronic gizmos sneaking into the product mix? GM-Rochester Products did use Carter for a sublet manufacturer in some cases back then, while Carter was still Carter and not an almost "dead" Federal-Mogul property. I was thinking most of those were a good deal before 1980s, though. They were built to the same blueprints as an "in house" Rochester carb, but I recall hearing that they were not of the same build quality as the GM-Rochester carbs and were somewhat "trouble prone". In that case, "Made for GMC" would mean "General Motors Corporation" rather than "GMC Truck and Coach Division", I suspect. I recall no GM-Rochester carbs for the aftermarket or non-OEM applications back then. GM-Rochester did build carbs for various non-GM entities over a period of time, though, as Chrysler used QJets as replacements for Carter ThermoQuads when Carter stopped doing OEM carbs in the 1980s. Seems like there might even have been a year of so of them on late 1960s Ford big V-8s? Still, no non-OEM applications per se. One possible reason for there not being any non-OEM applications was the pretty specific jetting the QJets had. They were highly adaptable (primary metering rods, secondary metering rods, primary power piston springs, secondary metering rod hangers, primary jets, choke pull-offs and vacuum break setups) to a very wide variety of engine and fuel curve requirements so they were not really "universal" in the same way as a Carter AFB or some of the Holley 4bbls can be. Not that they probably could not have done some "hot rod" aftermarket versions, but with all of the GM business they had anyway, there might not have been enough time and research money to do non-OEM items. Just curious, though, whas was this carb desired to fit? Take care, NTX5467

Prices vary from model year to model year and also model to model and GM division to GM division. No "universal" remotes! Different models can have different suppliers (to GM) just as different years can be similar. Some GM Remote Keyless Entry transmitters are very reasonable, but others with personal choice identities and active arming are much more expensive. As you've found out, online auctions can result in "incorrect" items and items that do not work with your vehicle (although they can look identical on the outside). As for programming, that can vary too. Some years can be done manually via the Driver Information Center, certain proceedures listed in the owner's manual, yet others need the GM Tech2 (or similar factory supplied tool) to do it. No universal proceedure either! Programming charges, by the dealer, appear to be about 1/2 hour of the hourly labor rate for the shop. As for the parts prices, take the time to walk into different GM dealers and get prices from them (no phone calls, please!). They all come from the same warehouses so different dealers might have different prices, if they don't use the published GM price list. Shop around and just make inquiries, without telling the parts counterperson your "story". If you find one that's a better price for the same part, that would be where you might consider doing business. In the programming part of the situation, the way it is done is to first clear existing memory of the former remote transmitters. Then, ALL of the remotes you've got for each vehicle need to be present for the programming as they ALL have to be programmed at once (for each respective vehicle), in sequence, for the vehicle to recognize them. Seems like there's some signal when that happens, like the horn beeping or the door locks cycling. As mentioned, some of the programming proceedures are more time consuming than tricky, but others require the GM Tech2 to make happen--just depends on the year and model and GM division of the vehicle. If the GM prices sound expensive, there's always the Toyotas and Nissan products with their titanium keys and integral remotes with the key. Word is that none of those items are serviced separately if lost, but as a new complete security system (to the tune of over $1200.00). At least on the new Dodge Charger, there's a small screw that holds the keyless entry transmitter to the key. And also consider those import prices with respect to the GM "chip" keys and the more late model transponder keys. Not in the "hardware store" selection either. And the transponder keys have to be programmed to the vehicle too--no choice. Hope this helps . . . NTX5467

I suspect the "key" might be IF the particular vehicle ("finished" by ASC, McLaren, SLP, or whoever) was ordered by the dealer with GM option codes just as if it was a "regular production assembly line" vehicle. AND if the VIN reflects what the finished vehicle is--providing, of course, that the VIN would reflect those things for the particular model year of vehicle. Things of this nature are much easier to track than in the earlier times of the GNX, typically. Now, this would not be the same thing as a dealer getting some extra work done to the vehicle after it's delivered to the dealership and before the customer finalizes the paperwork and takes possession of the vehicle. Like the aftermarket add-on fabric-covered roof caps that simiulated a carriage top or a padded top, or Vogue Tyres in the place of normal production tires. Even pin stripes! In the case of the GNX, all of the part numbers for the special parts for those cars were ONLY listed in a Buick service bulletin. That meant that if a person came in and wanted a GNX-specific part for a GNX and you didn't know about the service bulletin, then you'd order a normal GN-spec part as that was all that was listed in the GM parts database (then or now!), which would not be correct for the GNX vehicle. Similar things existed, to a lesser extent, with the last Camaro SS "conversion" by SLP . . . as in the special KONI shocks being in the GM parts database in particular. Just as in other vehicle authentication situations, "paperwork" and documentation can be significant issues on earlier vehicles. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

For what application?? Might still be able to find one from GM that will work. Maybe even something on the Help rack?? NTX5467

Further "looking" in the manuals should also indicate WHICH 350 V-8 it is, whether Chevy (most probably not in that particular car, the Chevy 350 in that year would not have been a "J" VIN code), Olds, Buick, or Pontiac. Each engine would have their own unique look about them (i.e., valve cover configuration, intake manifold, exhuast manifold, air cleaner and related cold air ducting). Oil filter uses would most probably have been different in each divisional 350 V-8 too, as would air filters and spark plugs. I rather doubt the emissions decal would identify which 350 V-8 it is, as to producing division. If I recall correctly, the window sticker just mentioned that the engine was built in an engine plant operated by _________ Division of General Motors, but with a "corporate" approach to the whole situation. In those earlier times, the "corporate" orientation was just being expanded in GM as each GM division typically had their own engine plants and such, rather than them being under the GMPowertrain umbrella as things are now. Enjoy! NTX5467

A "custom bodied" vehicle is not "modified"? That could mean that all of those Cadillac station wagons and pickups (even flower cars) from the 1970s and prior are "stock"? 4 door convertible "parade cars" too (other than Lincolns)? Just a thought! Enjoy! NTX5467

What I've used on engine brackets and such that are a "satin" black on the engine is GM Goodwrench Glossy Black Engine Paint PN 12345322 (spray can). It says "glossy" on the can but it is more satiny and is an exact match for the engine accessory items and air cleaners that are black (in the general time frame you are dealing with). I've used it on my '67 Chrysler and it matched that too. Just don't shoot it tooo thick or it will be too glossy (unless you have some factory runs you're trying to duplicate), but lighter coats will work just fine. In reality, now that I think about it, the particular black might be more inline with the GM Reconditioning Paint (quart) that would match the normal black primer on the body sheet metal, except it'll show fingerprints and such as it is a primer rather than a final coat. Some have mentioned that a "charcoal grille black paint" looks just like the GM primer but does not have the fingerprint issues. Using the GM engine paint (from GM rather than an aftermarket vendor) would probably be the easiest one to use. You might get some and see how it works for you. There are lots of "correct" paints in the reconditioning/restoration marketplace, some even sold by GMRestoration Parts, but I've noticed that they might be as correct as they claim to be. Therefore, some shopping around and trying the right combination of spray paint and techniques which end up with the results you desire might be advisable. In the case of many parts, they were "dipped" rather than sprayed. For example, the paint was layered on top of a container of water. Then the part was dipped into the paint/water mixture and then removed to hang to dry--dipped either fully or partially. That would explain the inconsistent paint thickness on some parts and that it looked like too much of it drained off before it dried. Sprayed or duplicated dipped, it all depends on just how correct you desire to be for what you're vehicle is and related issues. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

I know for a fact that the current production wood trim on the DeVilles and such IS real wood . . . to the tune of about $700.00 retail for the piece between the a/c vents on the instrument panel. Many have been replaced due to a/c vent issues AND it usually gets chinked on one edge by the tech in the process, which is a tricky process to even do (much less not "damage" the wood in the process). If you want to get a definitive answer to your question, find a GM parts countersales person at a dealership that is in a "lull" period and get them to check prices. The real finished wood will be very expensive and the "decal" wood panels will be significantly less, I suspect. The wood they use seems to have a highly involved and lengthy refinishing process rather than just some slick varnish sprayed on like paint on the fenders. If it's like the wood kits for many of the upscale truck conversions, it's done in "coats" and each coat must be fully dried and sanded before the next one can happen. One reason they have such good durability, unlike many of the cheesy conversions of the '80s where the varnish was evaporating inside of one year in the southwest USA summer heat. Enjoy! NTX5467

If I recall correctly, Gabriel has a "Vintage" section in their catalog . . . but it's been a while since I looked. Many have reported good results with KYBs on their '60s era Chryslers. There are "gas shocks" and then there are "GAS shocks". It has to do with the amount of gas pressure in the mechanism rather than just the presence of gas in there. Most shocks have a "low pressure" gas bag to help keep fluid aeration to a minimum in rough conditions, yet they usually don't extend by themselves or need tethers to keep them in the collapsed position prior to installation. Most of what's on the market now as "gas shocks" will have about 15psi of pressure, enough to make them extend but not so much it can't be dealt with. Bilsteins are of the HIGH pressure orientation, by contrast. In the past several years, it seems that there are fewer real shock absorber producers . . . as most of the listings now parallel each other regardless of brand. Not anything like in the old days when you had a real choice between stock, aftermarket, or HD (with related piston diameter increases along the way too!)! Now, they mention "new car ride" and "control" rather than piston diameters or stiffness of the valving. I suspect that whatever you find for your vehicle will be all that's available for it, period. No real choices per se, other than brand. To get an idea of what's out there and how much they are, you might look at www.RockAuto.com (they have a pretty easy online catalog with lots of years covered). Then you can look at the online catalogs for KYB or Monroe. KYB is also a moderate pressure gas shock at reasonable prices. If there is a choice, I'd recommend just the basic gas shock as it'll probably be fine for the intended use of an older vehicle that might not see "hd" uses but still needs to "ride and handle like a Chrysler product". As I mentioned, probably not many brand or type choices out there any more, but what you find should be pretty much the same as, if not a little better, than the original production "std" shocks the vehicle came with--just my gut suspicion. If they'd still build them, some KONIs for the car would be excellent . . . but they will be much more expensive than any other replacement shock. They will also be fully adjustable (on extension only) for fine tuning of the ride and handling. It has been noted that KONIs for Chrysler products were usually calibrated to a finer level than other shocks as the late owner of the company drove Chryslers, be that as it may. The original shocks for your vehicle were probably built by Monroe or Gabriel, I suspect, as Monroe was a major supplier to Chrysler up into the 1970s (rather than "Monroe" being stamped on the shock body, it was "MAECO" for Monroe Auto Equipment Company). If the shock was listed in the Chrysler parts catalog as "HD", it was a Monroe Super 500 in a Chrysler box. Other than RockAuto.com, you might also check on the Forward Look website (a link on the WPC "Links" webpage) and also with Gary Goers (who also has a parts website). I suspect that these references would most probably be the best "value" rather than lead you to the most expensive items. With the listings at RockAuto, then you can use those part numbers and brands to shop your local parts stores. Hope this might help . . . NTX5467

In digging out my '68 Buick Chassis Service Manual, the stampings mentioned in the service manual are on the AXLE TUBE, not the center casting. From the illustrations in the '68 manual, it looks like it should be on the driver's side axle tube (referenced from the ring gear clearance bulge in the rear cover) in 3/16" tall stamps. The stamping should be the two letter code (denoting "standard open" or "PosiTraction" differential) followed by the Julian date of the year of manufacture. PosiTraction differentials also appear to have an "X" with a circle around it before the letter code. The letter codes might be different for your model year, but I suspect the basic format is very similar to the '68s--just my gut suspicion. As those Buick axles were unique to Buick models, there should be nothing to confuse with other GM carlines' rear axles. "Timken" is a particular brand of bearing, which is very probably one of the premium brands now (and in prior times). If they are the same as they used to be, definitely OEM quality items. The BEST way to make sure you get what you need would be to disassemble the rear axle assy and then get the numbers off of the existing bearing sets and seals. Then most any competent auto supply (i.e., NAPA) or bearing vendor (probably several locally in your area, too) could cross them into current part numbers of what they can get locally or from their supply chain. In other words, no real need to order these things from a restoration vendor per se. Year ONE and others get their stuff from "somewhere", with all due respect. Shop around as the prices and availability can vary. As for the transmission, if it's a 2-speed on the quadrant, it should be the "SuperTurbine 300" and if it's a 3-speed on the quadrant, it should be the "SuperTurbine 400". Both, if I recall correctly, should be "switch pitch" versions. Not a lot of choice back then, but specific variations with respect to the engines they were bolted onto. ST300 ID in a stamped servo cover on the right hand side of the trans; ST400 ID on a square metal tag "riveted" to the right hand side of the case, with a VIN stamp on a boss adjacent to the tag, near the pan rail. Again, I suspect the '68 format is similar to what is on your vehicle. In the area you're in, I somewhat suspect there are some local vendors that can supply what you need for the mechanicals of the vehicle. Not to mention a competent repair shop to perform the rear axle work, if needed. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

Egge and some others have had segments about them on the Speed Channel's "My Classic Car" show (www.myclassiccar.com). Unfortunately, many of the long-established USA companies that build auto parts are now part of conglomerates. Even some of the most historic names too. This results in some rather large and complicated websites (the basic website of the conglomerate and then the other websites for each of their product lines. Some of those online catalogs can be rather cumbersome to navigate, if they go back that far at all. Many use the same formats and programs, it seems, which does not help things much either. That's why I like to search RockAuto.com to get the part numbers and such first, then try to verify them on the manufacturer's website, if I can. I suspect that many of the main companies will also have parts presences in Australia, all things considered. Especially with the use of USA engines in vehicles down under, so that might also generate some catalogs with American engine parts listings in them, or at least the possibilities that they could be procured by the local shops--key word "possibilities". I know that Kanter and others are long-time vendors for vintage engine parts, BUT they have to get them somewhere themselves (unless they have a special run done just for themselves). Therefore, the closer you can get to the main source, the less expensive things might be. Everything has a cost in some form or another, so the convenience of calling a vendor for a "kit" that might cost more than what might be procurred by individual pieces from different sources can illustrate that point. Your project, your decision . . . but you need to know exactly what "size" items to get (i.e., piston rings, pistons, bearings) BEFORE anything is ordered. In your location, paying shipping costs "once" would be a priority, I suspect. Maybe I'm too used to chasing things down and finding where they come from before I make a purchase of that nature? Maybe I've been around machine shops too much? For websites, you can punch the brand names in to Google and it should pull up vendors and possibly the manufacturer's website link. Or see what you can find in the online catalog at RockAuto.com with respect to name brands and part numbers. The more research on the manufacturer's website online catalogs you can do, the better (at least to me). There is also a place down between Fort Worth and Abilene and Brownwood, TX called Terrill Machine. It's a family run business that started about 30 years ago, dealing in old car parts and such. They have a website too. Of course, there's also TRW, Sealed Power, and Dana/Spicer that were OEM suppliers of engine parts since "whenever". Your project . . . your money . . . your piece of mind. Enjoy! NTX5467

Some of the main age issues on those cars would be the urethane bumper "extensions" (which are avail in fiberglass replacements from several sources) and the interior and possibly the vinyl roof . Other than that, the mechanicals would be "normal stuff". The interiors were really lavish, typically of velour-type fabrics in the "loose pillow" configuration. Really nice when new, expensive to replace later on. Even if you could just replace the "loose cushion" part, the velours tended to sun fade so you'd need to do it all to make it look right. This was somewhat before leather became the "choice" in American luxury cars. Considering that many people consider those cars "gas hogs", especially in the current situation, there is not much real value in them per se, but they can be really nice cars when restored to factory specs. Worth much more in enjoyment than they'll ever be worth in dollars, and not terribly expensive to keep if they are running right (think "SUV type fuel economy, but on the high side of the numbers). Big gas tanks, 87 octane unleaded fuel, luxury everywhere . . . and space to enjoy the whole situation--plus a real 4-speaker STEREO radio that knows what right channel/left channel SEPARATION is. If the mechanicals can be made to work well, then the main issues would be the soft trim items I mentioned. It's your judgment call on what you do with it, but I suspect anything you would do with it would be a better fate than an enduro car or arbitrary crushing. Maybe it'll run pretty easily and maybe you could negotiate the price down some too??? Just some thoughts, NTX5467

What happened to the "residual stock" can be variable. In many cases, the "contract" for parts is based on estimated demand (outside of initial vehicle production) and might not be revised if demand is higher than normal, yet if demand is strong enough for a second batch, it can happen. If and when demand diminishes to the point of being "dead" as the vehicle ages, they can opt to just sell out of the existing stock and not reorder any of them. OR if there are other considerations, the particular items can be scrapped or sold to a "liquidator". In the case of "liquidator", the parts that they do that with usually are listed in the GM Parts database with the phone number of the vendor that has them for sale. I forget the particular vendor that many GM parts were transferred to, but it's a large entity with other things than just GM parts. They have a website too. My gut suspicion is that they just sold out of the wire wheel covers or scrapped them at a salvage yard near the location they were warehoused at. You might run the number at www.partsvoice.com to see if there are any stocking dealers that might have any. As for the locks, they might still be available. IF you can find the GM Accessory kit (as in OEM "production"), they should come with the complete set of wire wheel covers and a set of locks and the key for the locks). MUCH less expensive to buy them that way when they were new! This was a great deal when it was available at the whole kit was about the cost of just one wheel cover under the normal GM part number. If you do find a dealer that might have some of these, the risk is that they might have an incorrect part number or part number change on them. Meaning that the part number is correct, but the part is not correct for the part number listed. When you buy it, it's yours, typically. Not to mention shipping costs. Might also be some parts missing if you find the GM Accessory kit, but the same risks of incorrect part number changes would be operable. Probably the best criteria would be to find the valid part number and them request that it is in an unopened box (probably quite rare at this point in time) with the original part number on an original GM part number label--if the criteria is not met, then no sale. Hope this helps . . . NTX5467

In any carb, there will be some calibration bleeds in the venturi/throttle body area. These will be in the upper area (typically) areas of the venturi area AND should be reasonably visible upon inspection with the air cleaner removed. If the earlier Carter is architectured as more modern ones are, there will be a hole for the idle circuit and one for the main circuit of each throttle bore/venturi in the venturi cluster. When that part of the calibration circuit "closes", it makes that particular circuit go "full rich" or being restricted can cause "too rich". Usually, these deposits are more fuel residue-related and can be removed with some good carb cleaner spray. In the bottom of the venturi cluster (again, if that earlier carb is like the later Carter carbs), the tubes that go down into the fuel will also have some caliabrated holes in them, but they are "supply" side rather than "additional calibration" side. When clogged or plugged, it causes "lean" issues rather than "rich" issues. As mentioned, ignition issues can cause some of the same things as fuel issues. A check of ignition point dwell and coil output might be appropriate, as well as spark plug gap. A too weak spark will not fully ignite even a correct fuel/air mixture, which might end up with what appears to be a "too rich" mixture (and point to a carb issue in the process). If the air bleed holes are clear and fully open, any richness should be able to adjusted "out" by the idle speed mixture screws. In the older carbs, there was enough latitude in the typical mixture adjustment range to cause a "rich" idle condition. Maybe the carb just needs a good carb cleaner "spray and soak" of the venturi area, some fresh spark plugs, and a good idle mixture/speed adjustment? Maybe it's a "sunk float" issue, possibly? Just some thoughts . . . NTX5467

The GM Penetrating and Heat Riser Lube is pretty much a "black" spray lube, kind of like if you mixed WD40 (for example) and graphite into a spray liquid. Never was too impressed with the penetrating properties of it, but it does contain the graphite in the mix. When you get things apart, I would suggest (from what we went through with our '66 Chrysler 383) that you carefully ream the holes in the exhaust manifold where the heat riser shaft goes though it. In the case of the Chrysler, even when using the factory replacement kit, the supplied bushings were too tight to let the shaft move freely (and the thermostatic spring close the valve when it was manually openned). The service manager at the dealership got his reamer kit and "clearanced" the new bushings so things worked freely (with no additional lube, at that time) and pretty much stayed that way for a good while afterward. I suspect the Buick situation might be similar. Typically, the valves were pretty much "closed" as it was not really necessary to use full throttle too often with the larger engines and "highway" gears--just an observation. I also suspect the materials were not too resistant to "corrosion" from exhaust heat, much less any lubes that might have existed back then (which would most probably all have burned off the first time the engine was run after "lubrication" of the valve). Not knowing the particular sizes of the heat riser valve shaft, it MIGHT be reasonably close to what has been used in door hinges (hinge pin bushings) in some cases. Might be possible to disassemble the existing valve and find a new bronze/brass bushing from the door hinge selection that might be able to "make work" in the new application. If this can work, then it'll provide a reasonably easy to find substitute for the original bushing (without having to buy a new NOS kit or similar). Might even cross with the bushings (if they use bronze/brass ones) used by the QJet carb people to rebush the primary throttle shafts in those carbs. I really suspect the stuck heat riser would not be the cause of the hesitation you mention. I suspect it can be more related to current fuels and carb adjustment/age issues ("low speed jet" calibrations that might have decreased due to deposits, which typically are NOT removed with chemicals in the rebuild process, that are affecting the idle and transition fuel circuits). Might be more or an ignition issue too, other than just base timing, which can also be affected by how far the primary (if a 4bbl) throttle blades are cracked open when at base idle. How much wear is evident on the throttle shaft in the carb? Might even be a timing chain wear issue too . . . OR a combination of many of these things. According to the Rochester and Holley carb books, if more than .040" of the transition port is uncovered at base idle adjustment, it can cause a flat spot that any accel pump shot will not "cover". This is why you drill the holes in the primary throttle blades when a way hotter cam is installed, so that the additional air the engine now needs will be supplied without getting the throttle blade relationship to the idle and transition slots in the carb "out of spec" so that the idle and transition ports still work as designed. Having the throttle cracked open too far at base idle can also activate the ported vacuum signal to the distributor, which might also result in the additional timing reading you mentioned. Similarly, if the throttle is closed too far at base idle (from a genuine overadvanced base timing setting), hesitations can also result. The OTHER issue regarding the carb would be if they used the correct carb base gasket setup when it was all put back together. Especially if the manifold is set up with the heat track at the front of the carb mounting pad. As for penetrating oil, I had unexpected good luck when Gunk "with Teflon" spray penetrant. It seemed to wick in to the rusted bolt/nut areas of the shocks on my '68 LeSabre very well. I was surprised at how well it did work. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

With respect to the '60s era B and C-cars, think "Chevy Impala" for B-cars and Olds 98, Buick Electra, and Cadillac DeVille for C-cars, with C-cars having the longer wheelbases of the two. The other thing I found out when looking about convertible top weatherstrips, which relates to the B and C car issue, is that there were just two sizes of convertible tops for full size GM cars in the '68 general timeframe, and probably earlier and later too. The Impala/Caprice, Catalina/Bonneville, Olds 88, and LeSabre/Wildcat had one size with the longer wheelbase Olds 98, Buick Electra, and Cadillac DeVilles having the other size. I also chased the casting numbers on the body mounts of my '68 LeSabre and discovered they many were also "Chevrolet Impala" items too, as most of the roof rail convertible top weatherstrips were too. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

I like RockAuto's catalog format. Their listings go waaayyyy back too, usually with several different brands, which you might use to crossref with your local vendors or auto supply people (if you have any local people you might deal with). I have bought a few things from them that I could not get locally (some NGK platinum spark plugs for one). As time has progressed, the older independent auto supplies have dwindled as have the number of jobber suppliers they have access to, not to mention the chain stores that have tried to take their place. End result, sometimes fewer choices of brands you can get, which is where places like RockAuto come into play. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

Internal corrosion or similar on the dimmer switch's contacts might cause a lower voltage than spec situation, resulting in decreased life of the bulbs? Just a thought. I had a dimmer switch that failed, temporarily, as the low beams on the car did not work, so I called a tow truck (as it was after dark and I went to work after sunrise). When we got it into the shop, I clicked the dimmer switch a few times and everything worked, so we replaced it anyway. Regarding the 4-headlight system T3s, back before I was involved with restoration issues (in the later 1970s) and salvage yards were still a main source of parts (as the resto business was still in its infancy, compared to now), some friends would buy T3s when they found them . . . and the ALL worked. We were of the orientation, from our own experiences, that other brands of headlights did not last that long. Usually, the cars had only one replacement headlight when they were found in the salvage yards, but the other three were origs and worked. Sometimes, some designs just seem to go forever (apologies to the Energizer Bunny) . . . and they all were replaced by "better" designs as time progressed. Enjoy! NTX5467

Camaro/Firebird cars have always been F-bodies just as Corvettes have always been Y-bodies. In the case of Corvettes, the "generational" nomenclature is now used to denote which generation (i.e., C5, C4) of Corvette the particular body design is. In the case of Chrysler "HEMI" V-8 engines, I started calling the first one (early style from the 1950s) as V1.0, then the 2nd gen HEMI (i.e., 426) as V2.0, and the current production 5.7L HEMI as V3.0 (with appropriate designations for the MDS and SRT-8 versions). In the same relationship, there would be several versions of the Buick 3.8L V-6 over the years, not to mention the various versions of the 401/425 engines and others of the Nailhead family. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

It's not really the best "vendor" of the kits, but what's IN the kits and who it's made by. I have a friend in the machine shop business (been around cars and rebuilding engines since the early 1960s, and racing them too) who knows many of the "ins and outs" of buying these kits. In the machine shop side of things, it is ALWAYS best to let the machine shop procure the kits as they have sources for "white box" kits with the premium parts in them, but without the premium price if they had come in the logoed boxes. You open the kits, and there are the Michigan bearings and other name-brand OEM-spec items all shrinkwrapped on a piece of card stock paper. The OTHER reason to let the machine shop people get the "kits" is that they can order them up to match what you really need AFTER they get the engine disassembled and cleaned up. As in what size of bearings after the crank is polished/turned, size of piston rings after the cylinder bore cleanup, etc. These are things that CAN'T be determined until the engine is apart, cleaned up, and things are measured. In other words, it might be a low mileage engine, but it could be all rusted and pitted inside, meaning that "standard" sized parts will not be useable. As for gaskets and the necessary "hard parts", request "OEM spec" items as the minimum specification of what you get put back into the engine. You might not plan on driving it much each year, but having parts back inside of it that are at least as good as what came in it from the factory is always a plus and worth the few extra dollars to get. But don't go hog wild with high trick "hot rod" or "nitrous oxide"-spec parts either as that would be high overkill and a poor investment in this situation. When you find a highly competent machine shop that does highly credible work, which might be a task in some cases, that will be the other "half" of the battle. Finding one with lots of impressive-looking machines could be good, but a competent and motivated machinist in a "tin barn" with a good boring bar, an accurate set of measuring calipers and such, and a large vat can turn out just as good of a job (or better in some cases) than the shop with all of the fancy machines. And if he's been in the business as long as my associate has, retirement is probably on the horizon. In other words, look at what comes out of the shop rather than the contents of the shop. Yet, this can be a highly variable situation too! Being an "informed shopper" in cases such as this can be daunting. Another reason to let the machine shop get the "kit" is that that puts THEM in charge of those things so that they can schedule the shop's work in a more efficient manner. Nothing worse than "customer procurred" parts coming in "wrong" and then having shop space taken up with a torn-down motor waiting for parts that have to be re-ordered for one reason or another--especially from the shop owner's perspective, which is understandable as it's THEIR space that is tied up as somebody they can't really holler at for the mistake is trying to get things worked out. Several dynamics in this situation. Finding a good machine shop can be easier for those that regularly use them, rather than a hobbiest who needs engine work infrequently. Networking with consistently winning racers and using that network to find a shop that fits your needs AND will do a competent job at a reasonable price can be advantageous. Although the parts of the "kit" can be important, getting OEM-spec machine work done such that even the least expensive parts work correctly can be more important than the particular source of the contents of the kits. In many respects, using more modern (i.e., current production) OEM-spec parts will usually be an upgrade from what was used when your vehicle was built. Same situation with modern versus earlier motor oils too. To get an idea of things, you might look at the Silvolite, SealedPower, Fel-Pro, Egge, Perfect Circle, and similar websites. Plus some of the mega parts websites (possibly www.rockauto.com?) that also sell engine hard parts. Remember, too, that if you order something, there will be freight charges involved whereas the regional location machine shop will most probably use a larger jobber supplier from a nearby metro area--who will usually deliver to him. Yet in the case of an older engine, they'll probably have to order the needed items in themselves, from the main warehouse. End result, any freight charges should be less than what YOU'd pay if you got them as the machine shop jobber would be ordering things for their stock anyway. Just another side issue to consider. Hope this helps. Happy shopping! NTX5467

My gut reaction . . . they are probably wanting to use a "dual diaphram" power booster, which plus the added length of the dual master cylinder, might have a long enough total "build length" to cause the interference they mention. The OTHER issue is how "tight" their booster mounts to the firewall (as in external linkage on the firewall side of things rather than inside the firewall, under the instrument panel). It also sounds like they are going to use a more modern master cylinder (as in 1980-90s style) which had the residual pressure valves screwed into the cylinder where the hydraulic lines screwed into the whole assembly. That's NOT the way the earlier systems were as those earlier master cylinders had the residual pressure valves internal rather than external. You can probably get a reman complete unit (power booster and master cylinder together, as that's the way the reman people usually service those things) possibly from NAPA or similar. It'll probably be an A-1 Cardone item, I suspect. BUT you'll need to know what years will interchange with what you have so it'll be a bolt-in situation to the vehicle and the under-dash brake pedal pushrod linkage will interface correctly with it. The later dual master cylinder vehicles had the fluid plumbed through a brake pressure warning block (later called "combination valve" when it was used with vehicles with front disc brakes as it turned on the warning light in the dash when pressure to one set of brakes was lost PLUS modulated pressure differentials to the disc brakes and drum brakes. Yet in the case of 4 wheel drum brakes, it was just a pressure switch to turn on the warning light--all wheels got the same pressure, unlike the disc brake systems and their different pressures to the front and back brakes. Once you get the model year and such interchanges worked out, you should be able to source the parts via a local auto supply rather than an aftermarket vendor. You'd also need to have some expertise in bending and double-flaring steel tubing between the master cylinder, the pressure block, and the existing chassis brake lines. The OTHER reality issue is that even with one set of brakes "gone" in a dual system, stopping distances will still be a good deal longer than "normal". Hence, if the pedal goes to the floor with a dual system, you will still have one set of working hydraulic brakes, but evasive maneuvers to keep from hitting something can still be most likely. Some brakes can be better than no brakes, but the dual system is still no guarantee you won't crash if the failure happens "suddenly". Maintenance can still be an issue with either system. It might be that you could use something all the way into about the '69 model year Wildcat/LeSabre vehicles, but there could also be some minute differences between how each year's brake pedal linkages and such are configured and mounted. Seems like Cadillac was the first GM car division to use a dual master cylinder in the earlier 1960s? Might have to do some salvage yard research and shopping. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

What sort of specs are you seeking? Other than body designation (which can relate to basic body items, like wheelbase in the case of some upper level GM cars and all GM light truck lines) and engine designations, few other "specs" will be denoted by the VIN per se. For the particular vehicle's equipment, you'd need to find the "build sheet" or do research on things like the engine stamp numbers and similar items for the transmission and rear axle. Other than that, it'd be "visual" research of sorts. In the case of Buicks, the wheelbase on LeSabres was typically shorter than on the higher level Electras, yet still "ample". Enjoy! NTX5467

Cooling system filters were typically "heavy duty" (as in "over the road") truck items. Don't recall any for automotive applications per se. If you do a couple of flushes with regular water after you get things cleaned up, then add appropriate amounts of new antifreeze to the system, it would most probably be good enough without going to the trouble to plumb in a truck-based filter unit. Enjoy! NTX5467

This is a pretty good link, in that it puts things in more modern nomenclatures . . . BUT there are a few errors. For example, the first Monte Carlo was only an A-body car and not a G-body car, yet it was something of a companion to the G-body Grand Prix of those years. In some cases, the G-car would also be listed as "A-Spl" in the parts books in other lines of GM vehicles. The "letter designations" didn't really come into play until the early 1970s, when VINs were configured a little differently than in earlier times. Prior to that, it was "series" numbers that defined the vehicles. I recall looking at my uncle's '60 LeSabre owners manual and it mentioned "Series _____" rather than model names (the model names made more sense to me back then). Then there were the "little series" or "junior series" names for the lower line Buicks and "large series" or "senior series" names for the upper line Buicks (I don't know if Olds used similar references in their vehicles). In the series number, it would define the manufacturing division of GM, the particular car line, and the body style in the basic 5 digit series number. In the Chevrolet side of things, the "passenger" notation would mean the full size Chevrolets, "Chevy" would be the Chevy II compact, and "Chevelle" would be the intermediate cars. Corvairs had their own catalog and related model nomenclatures back then. When I began in the parts business side of things nearly 29 years ago, I soon learned to cross-breed the earlier Chevy model nomenclatures into the "letter" designations. For example, my '77 Camaro Type LT would be FS87 (F=body designation, S=trim level, 87=two door coupe); an Impala 4-door sedan would be BL69 and a Caprice would be BN69 in that same model year. If you think the model name items were confusing, you should try to decode the engine notations into what they were normally called (SHPE or Special High Performance Engine = LT-1 Corvette, HPE = 350/350). One other vauge area in the Chevrolet side of things was in the engine designation in the VIN back then. There were "even" numbers and "odd" numbers that could be in that particular VIN field, with one being "6 cylinder" and the other being "8 cylinder"--but which particular engine went with what number was not listed in the parts book "decode" area. When the VINs changed in the early '70s, then each engine got a particular letter or number in that field. This made it much easier to determine if that '69 Camaro really was a Z-28 or was a base 6-cylinder coupe when it left the factory (with later "owner upgrades"). In the earlier Buick parts books, it listed the model designations by series numbers (i.e., 4000, 5000, 9000; in '68, LeSabre Custom Conv = 5 for LeSabre, 4=Custom, 67=convertible). If you didn't know what series went with what models, there was a listing of all of the models and their series numbers (in the respective model years) in the front of the parts book. Then, to denote body styles, the last two numbers of the series number was used (many times called "Style __"). The factory Buick service manuals were also nomenclatured that way too, typically. Much of the same information is in the Roster, as mentioned. Also, most of the more recent ACDelco parts catalogs (plus some other aftermarket parts catalogs) have a chart of more recent GM vehicles and their "body" designations. Hope this might help to further explain how things evolved. Enjoy! NTX5467