NTX5467

When is a Small Block Chevy not completely a Small Block Chevy (in the generic sense of the definition)??? When it's the "LT1" version (as in "L T no-dash 1" !) which powered the last generation of Buick Roadmaster rwd sedans. THAT's an important distinction in the case of the Buick Modified Division!!! You can take an LT1 and make it a generic Small Block Chevy by putting the distributor where it normally would be (which has a plug to keep the oil pump drive in the same place and "working") and also adding a carburetor in place of the fuel injection unit, but I haven't heard of anybody doing the opposite (other than the dirt track racers adapting a reverse flow cooling system situation to the normal Small Block Chevy engine in their special-use racers). Now, for some other "history", the reason I made the "L T no-dash 1" distinction is because of the original LT-1 engine, which was a 350cid Corvette engine and served for the basis of the 2nd Gen Camaro Z-28 engine in the 1970 era cars. As the LT1 engine is a valid production situation in the last gen Buick Roadmaster rwd sedans and wagons, that should meet the "Buick powered" orientation (an engine that came from the factory in a Buick vehicle, as a "regular production" situation,) although it's not of the same architecture as a "Buick Motor Division designed" engine. Just wanted to make that point before the "generic SBC" issue might taint things any farther . . . NTX5467

A few basic thoughts . . . --Don't go to the "bottom of the page" to find your camshaft (they progress from mild on the top to wild on the bottom, for example). Much better to have a mid-range cam that "works" in all speed ranges rather than get something way too wild that has a great top end rush, but poor low speed performance, the former will get to the end of the race sooner and less dramatically. With today's fuel prices, the milder cam will get better fuel economy and be more liveable on the street. If you read some of the car magazine articles about the "newest" or "trickest" street camshafts, many of them don't build massively more power than the ones they are being compared against. CompCams does have an assymetrical lobe configuration on many of their street cams (i.e., 268) that tends to work very well on Chevy small block engines. Many aftermarket cams are "designed" around the more popular Chevy V-8 camshafts (basecircle, lifter diameter, etc.) so finding a genuine Buick cam can be a plus. --Torque converter . . . just how "mild" this needs to be will be directly related to the ultimate vehicle the engine is installed in plus which rear axle ratio/tire size combination. Of course, you could build a Turbo400 with the factory "Switch Pitch" converter/front pump combination. Many times, the stock calibrations work just fine. Too much cam DEMANDS a loose torque converter just so the engine will idle decently. Too much cam DEMANDS adding some air holes in the primary throttle plates so the carb will work right at idle and lower rpm ranges. Adding power to a given torque converter, over and above it's "design power" will make it stall at a higher rpm than it otherwise would with the "design power", therefore, you could end up with a stall rpm of 2500rpm rather than 2300rpm (as an example). Higher stall ratings mean less efficient power transmission below the stall rpm rating, hence, you will need a steadier foot at cruising speed to get the best fuel economy. --Intake Manifold . . . It could well be that for what you're going to end up with, the factory intake (port matched and such) might work just fine. When the intake starts to restrict things, then it's time to upgrade to what you mention. Make sure it's a dual plane, typically, rather than a single plane, for better general street use. --Combination of parts . . . It's been mentioned in here just how well the factory 430 V-8 "combination" of cam, heads, intake, exhaust, compression ratio, etc. works "as is", especially in the fuel economy area. Especially when compared to the later 455s and their lower compression ratio! In other words, you could do a whole lot worse than to just finesses what you currently have! Once the "combination" or sweet spot is lost, even with name brand aftermarket speed equipment, you can spend massive amounts of time and money to find another sweet spot combination--even some of the "recommended" items from the speed equipment manufacturers don't work as well as the factory combination! What you might do is find a public library with a large archive of 1960s and early 1970s car magazines and look for engine buildups they did back then (on the 430 V-8), if you can find some. Look at the vehicle they were put into and then position that against where you ultimately might end up putting your engine, vehicle-wise. You might also seek out some of the Buick high performance information on the 430s. This would be even more information that you could use, especially with respect to cams, intakes, carbs, etc. --Ignition system . . . Upgrading to an HEI is not necessarily worth "horsepower" per se, but it IS worth increased spark accuracy and greatly decreased maintenance and the possibility of using a wider spark plug gap for a little better "burn". The more accurate spark timing can be worth a little more power and efficiency, though, but not massive amounts as all it takes is one good spark to fire a mixture and the stock system can do that pretty well (even with the stock coil!). Add some magnetic suppression plug wires too. --Carburetion . . . The Rochester QuadraJet spreadbore is a great carb that can be highly tuneable for a multitude of applications. Get the Rochester Carburetors book and you'll find out about these things. They are a different breed of cat from anything Holley or Carter did, even if they all had spreadbore carbs. In one respect, if I was going to do something of this nature, I'd probably investigate a Holley fuel injection system and then add the feedback look kit to it. Otherwise, if Holley builds a OEM replacement calibrated 4175 spreacbore for that application, I'd probably use one of them (from prior experience on my Camaro). --Exhuast system . . . (hint--Flowmaster is not the only company that makes mufflers with great flow and reasonably quiet "sound") . . . A good flowing exhuast system is vital to making things work. In the absence of headers per se, you might seek out some of the factory higher performance exhaust manifolds for the 430, if there are any. Then follow that back with 2.5" pipes to the mufflers and to the back. Others might have some more details. Most of the Buick high performance engine parts vendors seem to be more oriented toward the Buick 455s and such. Might be a little more "intense" to seek out 430 V-8 stuff, but you can look anyway, for good measure. Don't forget to also check out the street rod people or BuickV8.com or similar. Others might have some specific orientations about what works and what does not work. Most probably some highly diverse recommendations, I suspect. Look for a general trend of parts combinations more than looking for one specific item to change. In rebuilding your engine, using OEM spec items is important to long life and little maintenance. Lots of "other" parts are out there, so shop wisely. Remember too, you're dealing with a BUICK engine! It was designed by BUICK engineers and will have it's own unique quirks and idiosyncracies, so be prepared for it to "not act like a Chevy" in what you do to it and what results you get. Good thing it does NOT act like a Chevy . . . something you'll have to experience behind the wheel and accelerator pedal to really understand. Welcome aboard and enjoy! NTX5467

Those "fancy laws" also exist south of the Mason-Dixon Line and west of the Rockies. Y'alls time may be coming . . . Enjoy! NTX5467

In doing a vehicle "change" of the magnitude you mention, you might check with your state DMV to investigate their different types of vehicle classifications that your finished vehicle might fit into (i.e., street rod/street machine, kit car, home built) AND how it would all interface with their safety/emissions regulations for licensing and yearly inspections. Various states have different "standards" which could affect just how "full race" a street legal vehicle might be, or vice versa. Year of the engine can be important too, as that would determine emissions standards the vehicle would have to meet--for street-driven vehicles. Again, this issue can vary from state to state, but if the engine can be verified as "newer than the year of manufacture of the vehicle", then it will need to have all applicable emissions hardware for that particular year of vehicle. Other states, as long as what comes out the tailpipe matches the year of the vehicle, might not get that picky--but if things don't "match", then they can raise the hood and make their "laundry list" of "Get Fixed" items (if you want to drive the vehicle on the street in THEIR state--legally). Several years ago, I ran across a Dodge 600 Convertible (K-car origin) that had a modified 440 under the hood and was rwd. Built pretty much like a race car, tube chassis, wheel tubs, and all AND looked basically stock with the hood down. Lots of engineering went into that project and it showed. It was licensed, but I don't recall in what state, but most probably in the IN or OH areas. Best of luck in your project! NTX5467

With all due respect, this turn of events does not surprise me. After judging and looking over the customized Buick (that was on the cover) at Plano last year, I can say it deserves EVERY award it might garner (past and future)! Very far from a J.C.Whitney "customized" vehicle! Lots of neat "Buick" touches that, quite frankly, didn't have to be there, but were. Not to mention a particular size of Michelin Symmetry (a P225/70R-16 white stripe) that is an exact match for the old H78-15 tire size. Or the Billet Specialities wheels that had the red/white/blue paint near the center, just as a Buick would have had. Lots of little things that didn't have to be there (that were Buick oriented), but were. In many respects, you can pay your money and head for super rare vintage parts or do something "different" (hopefully tastefully, of course) in using "incorrect" parts on a particular vehicle, or altering the sheet metal in several different scenarios too. OR you can buy a new vehicle and not worry about making these choices. Many might argue that the BCA is too picky in its judging, using other established car clubs as "justification" of that argument. BUT they are NOT the BUICK Club of America (which should have the highest judging standards of any car club of its type). That's why the first year for production radial tires or halogen headlights or whatever else IS important in the BCA scheme of things, with all due respect, as other national groups kind of gloss over those things. The AACA is a highly respected organization and one of the largest of its type in the world. Each enthusiast organization is at liberty to have whatever set of judging rules/criteria that they might desire, just as each automotive enthusiast is at liberty to find the group that best fits their needs and orientations. There will always be cycles of car club memberships growing and decreasing as time progresses or certain models/types of vehicles coming into vogue or fall from favor. The BCA obviously saw quite a spike in memberships as the Buick Centennial Celebration became reality. Now that that event is past, things are declining somewhat, most probably headed back toward a more normal level of membership. A somewhat normal situation, by observation. Many enthusiasts will join several groups (and belong to many online communities), but at some point in time, many of these memberships will be "cut" as time used for them becomes needed for other areas of their lives. It can even be a seasonal situation too, as the cold months become warm months or vice versa. Maybe the decrease in time spent is due to a . . . car project. I wish you well, Tommy1927, in your other vehicular activities. I saw a shiney stainless Airstream the other day, with vintage license plates on it. It was a sight to behold--recalling when they were priced for people who could usually afford Cadillacs and Lincolns (which also had bigger engines to tow them with), or Buicks and Chryslers. I've seen the vintage trailer show coverage on the cable channels too--really neat stuff! Take care and enjoy life to the fullest! NTX5467

In the venturi clusters for the primary side of the carb, there are ALL of the calibrated air bleeds for the idle and main fuel circuits. These are ALSO calibration points for the fuel mixture curve (i.e., smaller hole = rich, larger hole = leaner). When the idle air bleeds are decreased in size, it'll make that circuit go rich (real quick!). Same with the main circuit. Several years ago, I had a car with a Carter BBD 2bbl carb. It would not idle once it warmed up (on the idle circuit) and would even die during coastdown for an off ramp on the freeway. I got some thin wire and put it into the idle air bleeds on the venturi cluster. It'd have fuel dripping from the venturi itself when I'd put the wire into the hole! Turned out, the problem was in a reduced diameter "Low Speed Jet" that was in the bottom of the idle tube. Some "twist drill action" cleaned that out really well. So, make sure the idle air bleeds in the venturi cluster are open and not clogged with deposits. These would be deposits that carb cleaner could not remove, so you'll probably need some very small twist drills from the hobby shop. Go until you just get "metal" from the restricted passage. Might even use some L-shaped bent wire spark plug gap gauges to test the size of the hole first. Wash out the residue of the drill operations and reassemble with the correct gaskets and things should work again. About 25 years ago, I attended a carb seminar put on by the regional Holley tech rep. One of the "shade tree" methods of idle mixture adjustment, once the speed was basically adjusted, was to use your little fingertip to cover the idle air bleeds on the primary side of the 4bbl carb. When you do this, it makes the circuit for that side go full rich. How the engine speed responds to this added richness is an indication of "rich" or "lean" or "just right". If the idle speed goes up before it goes down from the overrich mixture, the existing adjustment is too lean, for example. If the mixture is "right" there should be no speed increase from the added enrichment. Not quite as scientific as using a tach, but more "hands on" or "analog" in nature. I hope you saved your old gaskets to match up with the new ones. Sometimes, unseen subtle differences can make a lot of difference. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

All things considered, I wonder how much (really) different the Buick bushings might be from other GM vehicles with track bars? Or just what it'd take to adapt them to Buick applications? For example, the ones for the pre-'73 Chevy pickups are still available from GM Parts. Perhaps some time spent in the rear sections of a suspension parts catalog (most probably a vintage one covered in dust under a parts counter!) might reveal some interesting specs on these and other similar track bar bushings. Don't forget that Ford also had full size cars that also used track bars on their rear suspensions. As mentioned, a fabricated Heim jointed bar is a possibility, but keeping the Heim joint from squeaking on a street car might be an issue. It'd also transfer more "road" into the car due to the lack of isolation. With a suitable pattern for a mold, urethane or harder rubber bushings are a possibility. And now . . . information on such things from my 1974 vintage Mitchell Crash Parts book: 1961-1964 Full Size Buicks (exc conv and SW) Track Bar 1376169 1961-1964 Full Size Buicks conv and SW 1367379 (in some years, the "conv and SW" listings were not listed, just the "exc." listing) The Track Bar is listed as coming with bushings installed, although they are shown as a separate item (with no item number) in the illustration. 1963-1965 Riviera Track Bar = Radius Rod, w/bushings 1367380 1965 Riviera GS 1373392 (Very possibly, the only difference would be a stiffer rubber in the GS bushings) Now, for the highly interesting part . . . 1967-1970 Riviera Track Bar = Radius Rod w/bushings 1376169 1967-1970 Riviera Radius Rod bushings Std Suspension 1374270 1967-1970 Riviera Radius Rod bushings HD Suspension 1378070 Unfortunately, it doesn't "help" the issue with the '63-'65 Rivs, but it's highly possible that bushings for the earlier cars were serviced by GM Parts at some point in time, just as the ones for the Chevy pickups were/are. Or they were not serviced as they would not wear out during the warranty period, typically. I don't have a genuine GM/Buick parts book to research, but it's highly possible that the same listings for bushings are in it as they are in the Mitchell manual. Possibly, they are not listed in the GM listings for full size Buicks, but are listed for Rivieras, even with the same track bar/radius rod being used in both applications. With the same bar being used in both applications, that would nail down the external diameter of the bushings, but it's possible that the inside diameter of the bolt hole could be different. As the same "bar w/bushing" number is used in both applications, it would appear the bushings would be the same for the listed full size Buicks and also for the listed Riv models. Hence, there's your Genuine GM Part Numbers to chase via the NOS vendors or replacement parts vendor crossover listings. Further research indicates they are "Buick only" items. Don't know if I've got some older suspension catalogs that would have these things in them . . . Just some thoughts, NTX5467

In one of the magazines I bought recently (possibly one of the Pontiac enthusiast magazines), there is a company that sells a complete kit to turbocharge existing 3800 Series II V-6s in the Regal/Grand Prix/early Intrigue vehicles. They even have one to replace the factory supercharger, in the case the supercharger has or is failing. About an extra 100 horsepower is claimed. No mention of complimentary transaxle changes, though. Looks like a pretty "turn key" deal, from the looks of it. With that much extra horsepower capability, don't forget to upgrade the brakes and suspension along with it. It's one thing to go fast, but another thing to go fast and STOP and turn corners too. Chassis upgrades plus power upgrades can make those some reasonably priced "fun" sedans. Enjoy! NTX5467

Power antenna is typically triggered by the radio being on, unlike in the '60s when it had its own separate switch. If you have an issue with the rear lamps and directional signals, it's probably in the turn signal switch and/or in the hazzard flasher unit. Stop lamps also wire through the turn signal switch. This is presuming a failed part somewhere. If you find a wiring diagram "anywhere", it'll probably be a generic-of-nature diagram. In the GM Service database (which the dealeship techs have access to), it'll list only certain circuits (identified by number) rather than the whole elecrical system (as in the '60s). You can purchase said wiring diagram hard copies from www.helminc.com, if they still have that publication cataloged. In the mean time, many GM wiring color codes seem to transcend decades of models. You can trace the wiring loom from the front to the back (through the rocker panel area of the interior). You can look for "chaffed" wiring insulation or other damage to the conductor. You can also look for defective ground connections in the rear and front lamp areas (usually one on each side). Other than the feeds through the bulkhead connector (in the cowl area), everything will usually wire through the "Convenience Center" under the instrument panel (where the fuses and flashers and relays plug in). Looking for a bad ground (near the rear and front lamp units) might be all you need to find. A bad or flaky ground can cause a multitude of problem issues, just as a poorly connected wiring connector can result in voltage feedback as those pesky electrons try to find a ground to complete their circuit. On some GM vehicles, when there's an "open" in one of the front turn signal circuits, it'll feedback through the instrument cluster and turn on that particular turn signal indicator lamp (but not flashing) as it a solid ground is sought. In all probability, the rear antenna has had an internal malfunction and has ceased to work. Used to be that you could buy parts to fix them, but now they've all superceded into a "universal fit" GM power antenna (more money, but less labo to just swap it out rather than disassemble and then find out it has to be replaced anyway). Enjoy! NTX5467

Gut suspicion . . . what you have found would be "holes" that were used in the assembly process or were "drain holes" for the dip bath in one of the body primer/corrosion inhibitor tanks. Afterward, they'd be sealed with a metal plate (later rubber/vinyl plugs). Typically, to get to the fuel tank area you desire, dropping the tank is the only way to "get there". Rather than having a wiring problem, it's probably an internal "sending unit" issue. Unless the wiring "chaffed" and shorted out, it usually did not have problems. Considering the age of the vehicle, it's probably a good idea to pull the fuel tank out and get it cleaned (or replaced with a new one) plus get a new sending unit for it too (if available from either ACDelco, YearOne, or others). Then, you won't have to worry about it again for a LONG while. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

Typically, GM minimized the use of rubber hoses in their fuel lines. Only place rubber lines would have been used is the "flex" section between the fuel supply line and the fuel pump--especially in the model year area of your Pontiac. Might have been some "factory fix" or "aftermarket fix" for some fuel line resonance or harmonic situation, but I somewhat doubt it would be a check valve per se. In those earlier times, there were some "fuel economy computers" that used a "block" to measure fuel flow in the lines ("+" for the pressure side and "-" for the return side) and then compute fuel economy. Several possibilities, all things considered. Might even get some steel tube to replace it? Just some thoughts, NTX5467

In the Buick/GM parts books, there are SEVERAL different spring listings. One would be for non-a/c cars, another for a/c cars, and another for the F41 (handling) suspension option, and another for "HD" applications. Within each classification, there will typically be about 4 different springs listed. From a "base weight" in each appropriate classification, you'd "ADD" weight amounts for the various options on the vehicle (i.e., a/c, power seat, power windows, stereo radio) and use that cummulative total "weight" to find the appropriate weight-range spring for the car. This was for one axle-set of springs, either front or rear. This was in the era of "GM Computer Selected Springs" and later. These GM springs would be identified by the famous "tag" on the spring, with a letter code and the part number. This tag was typically wrapped around one coil near one end of the spring. Might even have been some paint color codes too. In the aftermarket world (i.e., Moog, Perfect Circle), the listings are more genralized--typically determined by engine size, a/c, and/or HD status. Typically, the rocker panel should be parallel to the ground. A line extended from each end of the rocker panel should intersect the wheel cover at approximately the center of the wheel. By observation, that's a pretty good rule of thumb. If, per chance, the springs have "sagged" due to wear or use or being too weak, they probably need to be replaced with the correct ones for the application. Some might recommend using the thick rubber spacers between the spring and the suspension, but that's more of a band-aid fix than anything. The correct springs are reasonably inexpensive, considering you will have to disassemble the suspension to "do it right" anyway. This would also be an opportune time to replace control arm bushings, ball joints, and other similar items while things are apart for the spring change. Using "wedges" between the coils puts more stress on the spring, which can cause further damage to the spring--therefore, not a good alternative, and the rubber ones can fall out. If you can find somebody with a Genuine GM/Buick parts book for that particular vehicle, you can find the correct GM part number (in the Spring Charts) and then find something equivalent in the aftermarket. One thing about GM replacement springs, you will only need to get one if that's all you need. In the aftermarket, they only come in pairs (which has merit too!). Might even be something in the NAPA catalog? Of course, there's Detroit Eaton Spring too. In the GM Restoration Parts catalog, they list the GM OEM part numbers with where to get them from a licensed GMRestorationParts vendor (which is typically Detroit Eaton Spring). You might be able to access that from the GMRestorationParts website, but I'm not sure if that's possible. Hope this might help, NTX5467

Seems like it is an "accumulator" device that releases an oil supply to the turbo when the engine is stopped. The device is pressurized with engine oil when the engine starts and maintains that container of pressurized oil until the engine is stopped or oil pressure is otherwise "lost". Then it'll meter the oil into the turbo's oil supply as it spools down. Similar in function to something that Moroso used to sell for race engines, but this is plumbed into the turbo's oil supply line (from the engine). Otherwise, it'd spool down with "existing" oil in the housing--however much that might or might not be. Hence the "Turbo Saver" nomenclature. That's my best recollection . . . Enjoy! NTX5467

I concur . . . keep it original if you can. Changing it back from a "kit" can be more trouble than it's worth, all things considered. On the later CCOT systems (as in my '77 Camaro and other pre-R-4 vehicles), the A6 DID cycle on an off as needed. If a new clutch is needed, be sure to change BOTH halves of it rather than just the "outer" part. With time and wear, there will be a wear pattern which both halves will mate to, but when you put a new outer part on that's smooth, it'll look like a sparkler under there every time the clutch engages. A '72 Pontiac shop manual I have said to cycle it on and off about 20 times to seat it in, but that didn't happen. Plus, you have to make sure the air gap between the halves is to spec. As for the kit to change your existing system to a cycling system, the parts are pretty generic-brand items, it looks like. I suspect they are making a very nice profit on the "kit" too! On the subject of "update kits", there's also a "POA Eliminator Valve" that's really a casting with holes for pressure switches to screw into, plus instructions on how to wire things and make other modifications. I found one Camaro parts vendor that billed it as a "POA Valve"--not a replacement item, but the real thing! Be VERY aware of what some of these vendors are trying to sell you if it's something of this nature! Other vendors correctly bill it as the "Eliminator Kit", though. See other threads re adjustable POA valves for low side pressure changes customized for R134a versus R-12. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

It might be a "separate piece" that will detach from what it attaches to, might even have an eight digit "part number" on it, but I highly suspect it's all part of the main light/lens assembly and not available separately from GM. Any numbers you might find on it will be "assembly numbers" for that particular item and not a part number that will appear in any GM parts catalog list. Just my gut suspicion without having a parts breakdown to look at just now. Enjoy! NTX5467

On one of the car shows on cable tv a while back, they were installing a set of "covers" over the existing front brakes to simulate the Buick aluminum drums. They were doing a "period correct" Ford roadster street rod, so having the faux Buick drums was necessary for the correct look. When they got the covers installed, it looked like a normal drum brake system, but had more common items "hidden". There is an additional reply in the General Forum on this same cross-post. Lots of reality in it too. Enjoy! NTX5467

To determine just what manuals are available for your car (before you start looking for a used one), go to www.helminc.com and follow the prompts to get to the year and make and model of the vehicle you desire the manual(s) for. It's NOT like the earlier times when there was only ONE manual as there are now many different ones. This way, when the manual vendor starts asking questions, you might have a better idea of what they are referring to. Enjoy! NTX5467

The 220 "on" and 180 "off" sounds about right, all things considered. On those cars, they came with an air dam that is placed right under the radiator mounting, which is about 36" wide and about 3" tall. This is in addition to any ground effects/spoilers that are part of the front bumper fascia items. If the lower radiator deflector is not there, it might decrease the "low pressure area" behind the radiator and result in operating temps a little higher than normal (if it was there) when the car is moving on the highway. Key thing for effective a/c cooling performance is sufficient air flow through the condensor plus sufficient charge in the system. R134a seems to be a little more critical regarding over-charge and under-charge conditions than R-12 is, but when the correct charge level is reached with R134a, the same relationship between the high side/low side pressures should be comparable to what the relationship would have been with R12. The "old oil" is supposed to congeal and eventually find the lowest part of the system to settle out in (which is usually the condensor). If there's a concern about that, then using a recycling machine to evacuate and save the existing freon, flush the existing condensor or replace it with a new one, and then add a little of the new POE oil to it before recharging might be an option. But as long as it seems to be doing reasonably good as is, what you do is of your determination. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

Howdy and welcome! In the later 1960s, disc brakes were transitioning from "high performance" to "mainstream" equipment on North American vehicles. EACH GM division had their own engineering and design areas too (unlike the "combined" way things are done now) so that what was on a Buick was not what was on any other GM vehicle, in many cases. Therefore, what fits a 1968 Impala will not usually fit a 1968 full size Buick. Back then, Buick was using a particular aluminum brake drum. Many customizers polished them for looks on their open wheel hot rods. Seems like somebody in Australia is reproducing them? Maybe somebody near Grapevine, TX too? Perhaps somebody at V8Buick.com or in the Buick Street Rod group has some additional information? Basically, it doesn't require a "disc brake" to stop a vehicle, so long as the drum system is adequately sized and has some "better" brake linings. Fade resistance is one reason the disc brakes became popular, plus probably lighter weight too (as things progressed). If you desire to add disc brakes to your vehicle, finding a donor vehicle in the salvage yard would be the best way to do it. NO Internet Shopping there, typically. NOR a "kit" either. The "kit" will be the parts from the donor vehicle in the salvage yard (spindles, calipers, metal lines, master cylinder, power brake vacuum boosters and brake pedal linkage, proportioning valve, etc.) that will then become the basis for converting your existing vehicle. There might be other years of Buicks that might fit, which the salvage yard people's Hollander Interchange Manual will specify. Once you have the parts from the donor vehicle, you can then use many of them for "cores" for the reman parts you'll replace them with. Plus then you'll also know about how everything goes together and should be reinstalled on your vehicle. If you haven't done one of these "conversions" before, you might be well advised to just rebuild what you have. MANY of those magazine or television show build-ups are NOT completely as comprehensive as they might appear--by observation and my own experiences!!! They'll show you the major stuff, but not all of the support activities that have to be done too, with all due respect, Brad54. ALSO, most of the aftermarket items might not be quite as strong for day-in-day-out street driving as the OEM parts are. Many are more racing oriented than street oriented, by observation. It might be a noted name brand, but that doesn't mean it'll work on a street-driven vehicle, although many have expanded their product lines for street-driven/track-raced vehicles in more recent years. Just changing the brake items at the wheel is a very small part of the whole situation as you'll end up changing the whole brake system in many respects. By the way, I think that body style will look really nice with the lowered ride height or air bags (so you can raise it and not drag the rear bumper off) and possibly some 16" or 17" wheels. LOTS of neat lines on that car! Just some thoughts and observations, NTX5467

With all due respects, this might not be the best place to pose that question. There are TONS of posts regarding "upgraded" Buick 3800 V-6s on several other websites. ZZPerformance and 3800Performance are just the tip of the iceberg! Most of the performance items are listed for the Pontiac Grand Prix vehicles, but there's also a LOT of information at Regal GS.org. Several magazine build-ups too, typically on the Pontiac side of things or in GMHighTechPerformance magazine. Regarding an "aftercooler", those typically are not used in automotive functions. As I understand it, they are mainly "heavy truck/industrial" items, where a turbo and intercooler supply the highly packed induction charge, which builds more heat for the turbo to work better and the "aftercooler" cools the exhaust so that it is not quite so hot upon exit. In such a OTR truck or industrial application, installation space is not nearly as much of an issue as it would be in a modern car vehicle (full size trucks might be a little easier). The "intercooler" is used to cool the intake charge before it enters the combustion chamber. Compressed gasses are "hot", hence the need to cool them back down before the mixture is fired in the combustion chamber. Is easier to plumb with a turbo rather than an engine-mounted supercharger, typically. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

I'm not sure which compressor might be on that particular vehicle, but you might find it in the ACDelco.com website parts lookup for your vehicle. The cycling switch is typically on the accumulator, but might be on one of the metal lines. Some people have said it does not need to be changed when going to R134a, as if there's enough heat load on the system, it'll keep the compressor running anyway. Yet the low side pressure that R134a apparently needs to cool as R12 did is 26psi. The switch I mentioned fits something like a 1995 Chevy pickup, listed as "R134a Retrofit". LOTS of those switches look alike, but have color stripes on them (plus a laser etched GM parts number on the metal band, if it's an OEM supplied part) AND there are some locating tangs on the switch where the electric plug goes into the switch, which are highly specific regarding where the index tang is positioned. "POA" valve is what controlled the evaporator pressure on the earlier "non-cycling" GM and Ford a/c systems. Allegedly "non-adjustable", but has a calibration screw internally, which requires it to be removed from the vehicle for a quick 1/2 turn ccw from the R12 adjustment. Ford also had a special tool (using a shop air supply) to check and calibrate the valves! The VIR system also has a smaller version POA located in it, also adjustable. It sounds like you did well with your conversion activities. On the dual fan GM vehicles, there can be various strategies to control the fans via the ECM (or similar). Some run the fans at full speed and then vary the number of fans running while others might even run them an appropriate speed for the heat load on the radiator. Varies with vehicle and model year. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

I got mine in today's mail. Having the address "page" as a separate sheet (inside the wrapper) works well. The "less color" cover looks good too, but I feel that if there is a special need for traditional color (as in a special year or similar, that is being made note of), then color could be used as it used to. Looking inside, I noticed many different pages of older content, which is fine, but some of them seem to look better on the "other" paper than the current paper, be that as it may. To me, the significant issue is the font and font size used in the member listing--PLUS the other listings in the back of the publication. At first glance, I thought I might need to invest in an elecron microscope. In looking at the regular state-by-state member listings, I found some email addresses that would need a magnifing class to read correctly. They were typed in a mixed capital/small letter style (as in normal writing) and it made things just too small to be easily read (in many cases), yet if they were in "all caps", it was readable. Therefore, rather than using the default font for these smaller print areas of the Roster, investigating to find one that is readable at the smaller scales being used might be advisable. It also might make the publication look more "professional" if it was all in the same font, rather using pre-existing document files "as is". In some cases, the fonts used in these files might work better than the default font. Perhaps these could be items to consider when it's time to bid the next one? The quality of construction looks good and durable. I think it'll work fine for many people. Getting the print version each time is good, but I think it might also be good to have the option of also ordering it as a CD set or on a DVD for an extra charge. Print version would be "free", yet the CDs or DVD would be "pay for". Having it on CD or DVD in an Acrobat Reader pdf file would make the font size much less of an issue, even "insignificant", as the end user could vary the font sizing themselves. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

One important issue with any R-12 is WHERE it was produced. Or, at least that was one thing many mentioned back when the "ban" took place. If it's genuine USA, then it's like we've always bought before that time, but if it was not, it could be suspect for many things (kind of like buying medication not approved by our FDA?). Remember how Ms. Reno made smuggling R12 into this country just like smuggling assault rifles? Anyway . . . Not really sure how the "made in the USA" orientation has played out over the years, though. It seems (from reading several a/c message boards) that some people have better luck with R134a conversions than others. LOTS of great information on that subject on the (what used to be) www.ackits.com forums. Look under FAQ for "POA Valve Not Cooling Well", for example. My research has revealed, at least on GM CCOT (cycling compressor) systems, that the orifice is the same for R12 and R13a (as in the hole size "in" the orifice unit). Of all of the orifices listed in the ACDelco A/C Parts catalog, there's not that much difference in the hole diameter, but some applications do have a very slight variation in hole size. This somewhat insignificant item IS somewhat important in that it determines the load the compressor sees and the resultant affect it can have on EPA fuel economy numbers. It's generally accepted (by users) that hoses "seasoned" with mineral oil from years of R12 use will work fine with R134a--as long as they don't leak with R12. The reason for the "barrier" type hose needing beadlock fittings is so that the prior "barb" fittings will not puncture the barrier (rendering it useless in that area). So, existing hoses can be used if they are in good shape, it appears. The GM A-6 compressor is plenty stout for R134a use, from what my associates in the business told me many years ago. GM has quietly upsized the R-4 compressor to a displacement roughly equal to what the A-6 has, many years ago (why if you get a "new" one, it's larger than the orig equip compressor). The V-5 (variable displacement) compressor just needs a new control valve to change it from R-12 to R134a (from the forum posts). If you get a new accumulator (where the dessicant is located), it's set up for R134a already. This part is seemingly a "replacement part" of sorts now, going by the years of use (age) of the part. In the case of cycling switches, GM Parts has one for middle 1990s C/K trucks for "R134a Retrofit), but it'll probably take a new wiring lead to make it work. Key thing for any R134a retrofit to work "as with R-12", from the "POA Valve" post, is to have the low side pressure (which can be found by unplugging the evaporator fan with the system turned on) at 26psi, rather than 29.5psi (which is the optimum R-12 low side pressure). R134a charge level will ususally approach 90% of R-12 when the pressure differentials become what they are with R-12 -- AND 40 degree vent temperatures as with R-12. There are several POE oils that some shops like, even synthetic versions. Key thing is to get ALL of the old oil out of the system, before it congeals and settles to (typically) the low part of the condensor (decreasing it's capacity in the process). In many respects, keeping an existing AND working R-12 system with R-12 can be better than retrofitting to R134a. But if you end up having to replace the compressor (from wear), the condensor and/or evaporator core (from leaks), which will also include the requisite accumulator/drier (which will already be set up for either refrigerant, typically), then doing a conversion to R134a and using the existing hoses can be a choice to consider. Check out those forums at ackits.com (of where it redirects you to, automatically) and see what all is there. Just some thoughts, NTX5467

Thanks for the additional information. From my 1974 vintage Mitchell Crash Manual: Moulding, Belt Reveal 2dr R/L PN 9609740-1 Labor time to replace: Glass removed .3hrs Glass not removed .8hrs each side Now, in the next section past that "Mouldings and Trim" listing, is the "Door Glass and Parts" listing, where it lists the rubber items. This, according to the illustration, is what we'd also call "seal strips @ belt". Strip, Glass Run at Belt Outer w/Belt Mldgs 2dr HT 9611814-5 Inner w/Belt Mldgs 2dr HT 9829753 (there were also listings for "w/o Belt Mldgs" too) With respect to Steele, it might be possible to get into the section they list these seal strips in and then look for "roll goods" that closely match or approximate what's on your vehicle. As I recall, they have many pictures with cross-section views of these items, so it could be possible that something might (key word) be found that would be similar. Most GM cars could very well be similar, even if the physical shape might be different, so long as the top to bottom dimension might be something that could be used. The outer rubber seals (9611814-5) also appear in the 1971-72 Cadillac DeVille 2dr listing. The similar Eldorados have a different number, plus most probably a longer door length (in which the seal strip could be shortened, possibly). Hope this helps, NTX5467

Are you needing the actual stainless brightwork molding or just the rubber "window felt" (as some call it)? In some cases, they came as one piece, with the rubber attached to the molding itself, or had a stainless "bead" made into the rubber itself (could depend on trim level of the particular vehicle whether it was just the bead or the molding was made with the rubber). These would usually be attached to the inner part of the door skin by small, phillips head countersunk screws. "Why" would they not fit? Just curious. Were what you got NOS parts or replacement items from another vendor? One of the main suppliers of these rubber items would be Steele Rubber Products. It IS also possible, as many of the other LeSabre rubber items over the years are similar or the same as Catalina, Delta 88, or Impala items, that those items might "work" although not specifically listed for "Buick" vehicles--by research on my '68 LeSabre. Just some thoughts, NTX5467