Angelfish

It works great for people who can't leave things alone, knowing it will never go back together if you touch it one more time is a good incentive to leave it alone,

To summarize the NASA document, it states that split (helical spring) washers are "useless for locking." Well, talk about the earth shifting under my feet. They didn't seem very impressed with star washers either, implying that they may be slightly better than nothing, but that is a step up from "useless." On the plus side, I never did like the appearance of split washers, so I guess I'll skip them from now on.

I still think these look better than the 57, although 56 is still my favorite. Were there suspension changes in 58? I've heard local gossip stating that the 58s rode better than previous years.

I buy split washers by the hundred and I put them on things that I think make sense to have split washers, mostly things that I don't want to come apart on their own. I assume there's a right and wrong place for them. On an engine for example. Assorted generator brackets, starters, fuel pumps, oil pump housings, transmission bell housings, engine mounts, exhaust manifolds, carburetors. Assembling the frame there's all sorts of little brackets and bits and pieces. Is there a predictable criteria when they are desirable and when not?

How to I know if I have the fuel pump arm riding on the cam correctly? It popped in nicely but now I just have to hope that I got it right.

But it wasn't all champagne and roses. My poor shop manual just couldn't take it anymore and started shedding pages. It's almost 70 years old so it didn't do too bad. I ran over to the local UPS store and she spiral bound it for me. Too big so she had to split it into two. Photocopied the cover for the second one and put clear covers over the top. All for the extravagant sum of $4.50 .

All accompanied by Mark Knophler

Dropped in the engine yesterday. You get all geared up for a big project and then when it takes 20 minutes it's almost disappointing. But not really. The engine dropped right in, this car wants to get back on the road so we'll have to make sure it happens. All four tires and an engine for the first time since 2019.

What is your Sta-bil regimen? I've had good luck using it as a preservative but was unaware if its use for ethanol.

Bearing race has been solved. Propane torch was hot enough. Tiny bur inside the race like they got a little rough on the install, emery cloth took care of that. This clears the way to put the wheels on which in turn allows the engine to go in.

Thank you! I do have a propane torch, not sure it that gets hot enough. I should be able to chase down a Mapp cylinder. Can I heat the race without damaging it? What color does it turn when it's the right temperature?

It's locked on tight. No movement in any direction. I've been using PB blaster periodically and tapping it with a wood block but nothing yet. Not a big deal, just another delay getting it back on its wheels.

How do I loosen up this inner bearing race on the front spindle? It is supposed to "creep," according to the manual, but the removal instructions are a little vague. Now as I sit here I wonder if a strap wrench would work. But if you have a suggestion for the non destructive removal I'd take it.

Came with a Saratoga in 1941. Junkyard has one and wants too much for it ($250). It's complete less carburetor. Have to assume it's seized with a cracked block, it's possible that's not the case but we'll start at the worst scenario. The hood is still in place so it's more or less protected. No reason, I just always wanted to rebuild a straight 8 and this is the one that presented itself. I need it like I need a badly stubbed toe. It would be something interesting to work on and then I'd end up with an engine that weighs as much as a smart car and not have a car to put it in. The transmission has wandered off on its own somewhere. But for those you who have done it, just interested in what was noteworthy about the process. And if you could tell me what it really does weigh.

What I learned while installing the front springs: 1: Don't make it harder than it is. 2: If if takes more than an hour to install one side, see number 1. In my defense it's a bare frame with no engine, so I'm going to say that makes it harder. Long story (about 3 hours) short, we fought the first one fruitlessly for, well, 3 hours, before succeeding. But we did learn a few things and the second side took, literally, 12 minutes. 3: There are three tabs on the underside of the frame that align the spring in a pocket, mark these with white tape so you can see them when you shine a light up there trying to see if the spring is aligned. Just doing this saved 20 minutes. 4: Crack the upper ball joint loose so you have more space for the spring. 5: Jack up the front of the frame as high as you dare, again, more space for the spring. 6: Have someone to help you. 7: Securely fasten the spring insulator to the top if the spring with narrow strips of strong tape. It crossed my mind after that it may be possible to glue the insulator into the aforementioned spring pocket. 8: A strong ratchet strap is a necessity. I hooked the ratchet strap to the opposite side of the frame, ran it across the top of the frame, around under the A arm in question, back up over, terminating again on the opposite side. Make sure the strap isn't snagged on any of about 500 things that can snag it. 9: Holding the spring into the upper pocket, run the spring compressor down from the top, protecting the upper shock mount with wood blocks. Tighten it enough to prevent the spring falling out (see #3). 10: A smaller strap was also helpful, this one hooked near the bottom of the spring, looped around the opposite side of the frame and back to me. Pulling the strap pulled the spring into the lower spring pocket. 11: The lower spring pocket is molded roughly to the shape of the bottom coil, there is a specific location for the end of the coil to sit. To align in this spot, point the end of the coil at the rear tire if working the the drivers' side, not quite parallel to the frame. It doesn't look right while you're assembling it but it comes out pretty close. Passenger side aims forward the equivalent way. 12: Alternate spring compressor and ratchet strap to crank up the A arm. The strap was far more effective than I would have thought, born more out of desperation. 13. A floor jack under the A arm works nicely as an assist for the strap and also helped keep the spring from popping out on the bottom. Just keep it off your strap. 14: Ratchet and compress your way until the ball joint pin is ready to insert. We found that the strap was more effective in the last few inches. 15: Thread on the castle nut, tighten it to 40#, and alternate ratchet and compressor to let it back down. 16: If you had a spring compressor long enough to reach all the way through the spring to the bottom A arm, well, that would just be too easy.

Well, I don't seem to have it. A local junkyard has a 57 that I've robbed a number of parts from but I don't remember if it has the shroud. I do need a pair of mufflers, that will be next. And a rear section of the exhaust is missing but I have to figure out which side. Pretty soon I'll be asking about how the hangers are located. I'll put a list together and let you know what I come up with. Thank you.

How vital is the fan shroud in a non-ac car? Mine appears to be missing.

MacGyver used an innertube to raise a car he we trapped under. If it worked for him I'm sure it will work for you.

Bumping this to the top for my own selfish reasons. 7

I asked a question in a thread started by someone else and they kindly gave me a detailed answer ripe with information that I now need. I do not know the name of the OP. I was trying to look it up under my own posts but I was not successful. How can I search for my old replies from 2-3 years ago?

Thank you for posting, that is a fantastic resource. I can't believe I've never run across it before.

I have to agree that it doesn't always make sense to change something that is working. But cordless tools have reached the point where they work as well as corded, and I would never try to talk someone out of buying new tools. Makita is the only power tool company that is still who they say they are. All the others have been bought and sold so many times that nothing of the original company exists. I work in the tool retail industry and what it means to us it that Makita has far and away the best customer support. We send a tool back to their repair center and it's usually back to us within two weeks, most of the time free of charge. The company rep is available and responsive. We easily sell 100 Makita 36 volt framing saws for every 1 corded Skil wormdrive. Milwaukee is the worst for service. They are closely affiliated with Home Depot, so if you're not Home Depot you're SOL. But a lot of guys do like their tools. All the others are somewhere in between.

That is a beautiful car and the good photos have been very helpful.

My son and I rode our bicycles to a vacant lot we were working on. Upon arrival he had a flat tire. There was a heavy hemp rope looped around a fence post so he cut it to length and wrapped it inside the tire. Got him back home. Sometimes it's hack, sometimes it's necessity.