Angelfish

Thank you gentlemen.

The manual is a little vague about the arrangement of internal parts, this is a pretty good guess.

It was manufactured in Kansas City and spent most of it's life in Kansas. I bought it in Denver but it hadn't been there long. No indication that it lived anywhere other than Kansas. In addition to dismantling what appears to have been a perfectly good car, someone rattle canned the entire frame and suspension, linkages, parking brake cable, etc, so I ended up having the frame painted. The transmission was finished about a week ago. The engine is the original to the car and has standard pistons so I assume it's still a 364. It was changed over to the larger 401 valves at some point before I got it. It was reassembled with lithium grease and was almost seized from the hard grease on the connecting rods. It took a month of soaking and cleaning in warm ATF to get the rods freed up. If you look at the engine in the back (not the Jaguar straight 6) the oil filter housing and oil filler caps were the color that is now on the valve covers, it appears the original color is what the valve covers are currently. The block color was added at the rebuild. I know Buick engine colors is a popular debate topic. It came with a trunk full of parts that I am starting to sort through.

Three years later it looks like this. The exhaust system was missing and I could use pictures of the hangers, especially above the rear axle. And I need to know if I have the intemediate rod set up correctly before I install it.

I bought this car in 2019 as a project that had been started many years ago and then abandoned. It was straight, rust free and partially disassembled. Three years later I'm making some real headway on it and that is where I'm going to need some help. Some parts were missing, some parts from other cars were included, and some things were reassembled incorrectly. I'm not good at keeping up with a thread so additions will be spotty. November 2019:

What color is this? Is it an original color for 57? I might have to use something similar.

I'd love to pick this up minus the engine and transmission, for maybe 25% of the asking price. Neat looking car.

(picture wouldn't post, I'll make another attempt later) Finally got the engine mounts and transmission mount cleaned up and they are plated in what appears to be brass. First thought is to prevent ferrous metal contact on the engine. Not sure if that makes any sense. And, were these mounts painted originally?

Hometown Buick has the interactive color chart but it loses something in the translation, none of the colors actually look as they would in the real world. I'll take a look at the color charts and see if they match up.

I mean the Buick technical name, assuming they're factory colors. And the color number if anyone has it.

They are not. The bump stops fit in a little dish on the A arm. The bars were in the same bag with the stops leads me to think they're related but I sure can't find anything.

You're thinking of McDonald's in Detroit.

This will become a recurring feature. I bought a 1957 Buick Special in pieces and now it's going back together. The first are these two bars. They were in the bag with the lower A arm bumper so I assume they're part of the front suspension.

One of my cousins walked in on two kids trying to steal his truck. He works as a personal bodyguard for Fortune 500 executives. The kids didn't get the truck. I'd like to hear the story but he doesn't talk about his work.

Popping this back to the top, hoping to have the front end back together in the next few days.

Wanted to make sure all the internals are in the right order before it goes back together. And is there a source for replacement metal dust covers? Mine are are slightly irregular.

How do these scams work? I always assumed they would request a deposit to hold it. There was a Mercedes for sale locally that was obviously a scam so I was curious how it worked. I contacted the guy and he said the car had been moved out of state but there was no request for a deposit. I replied in some vague fashion that I liked the car, expecting "I'll hold it for $500," or something like that, but he never got back to me. But this is still a gorgeous car.

Thank you! Can I assume there would be a corresponding offset on the other side in the event of dual exhaust?

And what is it called and where do I find one? The usual suspects don't appear to have it. The thicker part of the shaft behind the splines, the torque tube seal rides on it but this one is scored.

Located on the drivers' side of the frame just ahead of the rearward body mount flange. It's loose on the bolt but does not unthread. I forgot to take it off when I had the frame painted. In the second picture it's held in by the bolt to the left of the flange.

Sounds like you're past this stage already, but to flush out the block I used a piece of steel brake line about 18" long. I flared one end and poked it though a garden hose cap with a hole drilled in it. Leaked a lot but made a very high pressure water jet that could be threaded deep into the block. You can experiment with trimming and bending the end to change the angle of the spray.

Two years ago I had to move my disassembled 57 Buick to a new house so I slapped the front suspension together to facilitate the move. The car sat unmoved for a year in which time all the new seals in the A-arms cracked. The ball joint boots are still ok. I bought the seals from a well known supplier of parts for this car. I have the suspension back apart and need to replace all the seals in the A-arm assemblies, but I'd like to know that they will hold up for a while. Was is just the car sitting or do I need to look elsewhere for seals? I can't imagine there's a lot of different companies making them.