Angelfish

Flex discs are very easy. Transmission needs to be supported so the pan that supports it can be removed. The discs just unbolt from each end of driveshaft, no need to pull the driveshaft. I would recommend replacing them at this point, mine didn't have any visible cracks but once I pulled them they were hard and brittle. The hard part is stopping. I started out replacing flex discs and ended up with a new pinion seal, carrier bearing, transmission mount and a rebuilt driveshaft.

Should have it running in a couple weeks.

With any luck it will be back on the road soon, new AC compressor, driveshaft rebuild and throttle body rebuild. Smoke test found a leak around the butterfly shaft and the U joint was notchy. New pinion seal, carrier bearing, flex discs and transmission mount. Since I was under there already.

He sounds more black than most black guys.

Just the Ford grousing about that Chevy engine.

1982 Mercedes-Benz 380SL. It uses the good old A6 compressor. I have a new American made Alama compressor and a filter dryer. The nuts a bolts of the install is easy enough. What I do know: The System will be converted to R134 The 380SL uses PAG oil Compressor says it has oil in it This compressor was ordered for this car, it’s possible it’s ready to go What I thought I knew: The A6 has a belly reservoir where the oil goes What I found out: The reservoir has pressure in it What I don’t know: What's in the pressurized reservoir. The compressor has a tag so that might be a clue If I ruined something If the oil in it is the right kind and amount How to put the right oil into it How much PAG oil is required in this system Anything else about AC compressors, not even terminology What I did: Opened the plug to reservoir and released some pressure. Very quickly, faction of a second. But some pressure was released. I thought I was going to open it and find an oil reservoir, either empty or full. I need to get the right amount of the right kind of oil into this compressor with some assurance that I did it correctly. Bolting it back up is no problem.

Fuel tank looks good. Needs cleaned but doesn’t appear rusty.

Untouched first aid kit. Remarkably comprehensive.

Well I did it. I was pulling the first aid kit pan to access the fuel sender. This is the top of the back seat, perfectly exposed to the sun, and I poked an elbow into it. It feels brittle and dry, more what I would expect from leather. Leaving it alone for now but it definitely needs softened up or there will be more of these.

I ordered a real Alma (I hope) from a place in Arizona. Just finished stitching up the incision where they took the kidney out but it should be a good compressor.

I gave them a call after you took the time to locate them. Very nice on the phone but no compressors. There are aluminum ones available on Amazon.

Billings MT

Thank you. I admire people who are smart enough to know their limitations, like Clint Eastwood. Thankfully these cars have a loyal following and a lot of support, and the factory manuals are very good. I’ll be relying heavily on that to bring this one back.

Yeah I saw that one about the straps. Carburetor lift plate is always my first choice, and I really try to avoid using chains, straps don’t cause the damage to valve covers or gasket surfaces. Just make sure to thread them through the exhaust manifolds so they can’t move. Is that the ML that’s sitting with a non start / random shutdown issue? The computer sometimes needs reset if the battery dies. Some combination of tuning the key on and off. If that’s what it is it’s an easy fix. If not, well, then it’s not.

Any recommendations for a new one? Prices range from $200 to over $1000.

I hear conflicting stories about this, ranging from Yes they can be rebuilt and there’s a few shops that a good at it, to No don’t even think about it. The current crop of A6 compressors available for sale are receiving mixed reviews. But I need an A6 compressor for an old Mercedes, I can mortgage the house and hope the new one I buy is any good, or hope the rebuild on the original holds up. Any suggestions are appreciated.

Bore scope into the donor engine revealed 7 beautiful cylinders with crosshatching still visible and 1 with oil on top of the piston. 7 Cylinders look like this The oily one was at the top of the stroke. This is the top of the piston. Badly rusted throttle body butterfly. The one on the car is in much better condtion.

Engine and transmission out. Not a bad job when someone else already did a lot of the prep work. Next I get to break into the top end of the engines apart and find the best parts to make one that works.

Oh alright then, I’ll have to settle for drooling over the pictures.

If you come out one morning and find that someone has stolen your speedster, it was me. If you would stop posting pictures I might forget about it, but of all the wonderful cars we see on this forum, your Studebaker still looks like the most fun. Sorry for the hijack.

Meanwhile, how do I go about preserving the interior? Seats are quite nice, minimal dash cracks and the headliner is good. Don’t know if the seats are actually leather or that cast iron fabric they used later on, but they feel a little brittle and I’d hate to put a knee through one. And what do you like to use on the dash to keep the cracks to a minimum? Don’t know if I’m brave enough to attempt a headliner clean. And I think it was someone on this forum that recommended coffee grounds as a deodorizer. I used it in another car that had mice, Dollar Tree Brooklyn Blend, cost me $1.25 since nothing is a dollar anymore. Just cut open the top of the bag at set it in the console. Works great, I use it any car that’s staring to get a little sour.

Thank you. The pictures might be symbolic of the how this goes. Upside down before I even get started.

Thank you. I did try flipping the pictures and resaving (using a tablet). Anyway, I'm writing it off to one more hazard of being left handed.

I just figured out that the seat back locks are vacuum operated. This thing will be a challenge. But the clock works.