• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by MY64RIVIERA

  1. I’ve had the same problem. I’m on my 3rd pump this year. 1st one completely failed and I almost caught fire. (Carter). Second one was from O’Reilly’s (Precision). The one I currently have is from Advance Auto Parts (Carquest). What sound are you hearing. The second one had no audible sound and no visual leaks.
  2. The problem seems to be that the bulbs are loose within the metal housing and eventually lose contact with the socket (same setup as the pictures posted by 60Flattop). The metal housing within the taillight socket does not hold the bulb tight and therefore when this happens I lose blinkers, taillights and/or brake lights. I've seen other guys with similar GM taillights try and solder that metal housing closed to keep the bulb tight in the socket. I'll continue to explore different options. Just frustrating to continue to mess with it. I am definitely using the correct bulb.
  3. Thanks all. It's definitely a ground issue. The bulb does not appear to fit tight within the socket and with the bouncing around it loses the ground. I'll try the above and see if that fixes my problem.
  4. Still learning. I just swapped out my battery and the problem started. Would this be the ground wire that is attached to the negative terminal sitting off to the side? They were working before my battery went dead. Thanks, Robert
  5. I inquired about this car pretty extensively at the beginning of the year. The rear bumper on the driver side is noticeably higher and had me a little concerned. Also the odometer appeared to be missing numbers, like they were worn off which was odd. I almost pulled the trigger on it, but went in a different direction.
  6. Damn taillights are driving me crazy. Got pulled over because they weren’t working. I have brake lights and turn signals, just no taillights. Played with them and thought I had them fixed. Recommendations? thanks robert
  7. Alright folks....I'm sure a bunch of you are at the annual meeting, but wanted to ask a question which I think I know the answer to. I was at a local shop looking to get my exhaust done on my 64 and the owner of the shop has a couple first gens in his yard and one of them he believes to be a branded "Limited" early additional 63'. It has the following additions to the body: 1. "Limited" badge on the truck lid where the 64' "Riviera" badge is located (Looks like the same script as the "Riviera"). I know in 63' BUICK was spelled across the truck lid. 2. Top of front fenders are mounted turn signals indicators (like the attached picture). Fairly confident this was not an option and someone added (was actually pretty well done and did look stock) 3. Rear quarter panels were marked with a round Buick Tri-Shield emblem at the rear most point of rear fenders. (Looked very odd). Stupid me....I didn't take pictures of any of those things, but did take a picture of the body plate. The car was an early production (11C), very highly optioned with A/C and was originally Spruce Green with Sandalwood Cloth and Vinyl interior. The car is in pretty bad shape and would take ALOT of work to bring it back to life. I wanted to provide this guy some information so he didn't go down a path of thinking he had a hidden gem sitting in his yard. Looking for confirmation that there wasn't a "Limited" early production 63' Riviera. Fire away. Thanks, Robert
  8. Rich, I live just outside of Columbus and have a vintage AC setup on my 64 which was done by the previous owner. My car is a non-AC car originally so they mounted vents under the dash but was done very cleanly. Additionally they used slider controls similar to the factory so it gave it a clean look. If you are going to be up in the area for awhile I would be more than willing to show you my setup. Please feel free to message me for details if you would like to see it in person. Robert
  9. Ed, I do believe it to be controlled thermally as it only kick in when up to temp.
  10. Tom, Thanks...the Vintage Air was added by the previous owner and there is an electric fan in front of the radiator but they didn't add a fan shroud or clutch. I haven't experienced any issues with over heating, but then again it hasn't gotten too hot here in central Ohio yet. Radiator looks to be in good shape and possibly re-corded not too long ago. I was just wondering if i should consider a clutch. Thanks, Robert
  11. Couple questions. My 64' does not have a clutch for the fan. I know I'm losing some horsepower at high rpms, but what was the standard option and should I consider putting a clutch in? My car is originally a non-A/C car, but Vintage A/C has been added. Which provides better cooling? Thanks and happy motoring this great weekend! Robert
  12. Did someone snag these from you already? If not I'm interested. Thanks
  13. Having just replaced my mirror I can confirm that my door skin did not have any additional reinforcement for the mirror. It was simply held on by two self tapping screens and the threaded stud/nut on the mirror itself. I would like to also point out that the replacement tri-shield mirror purchased from CARS did have to be modified slightly to work if anybody chooses to use this in the future. The bracket holes did not quite line up with the original holes on the door so I had to drill a new hole in the bracket itself. I still plan to replace the original mirror somewhere down the line, just needed to get something that was quick and easy to install for the shows this year.
  14. I hear a clicking noise at the relay when depressing the horn bar. Based on what was described above my green ground wire might have a break or bad horns?
  15. Ed, My car came equipped with the remote mirror however the toggle was missing and the cables were stuffed down in the door. The prior owner must have lost the joystick or didn’t want to cut the freshly installed door panels and reinstall. I’m simply trying to take the path of least resistance, but will keep the original mirror and search for a toggle down the road. Thanks again everybody for the help! Robert
  16. Update. I removed the belt line from the door skin and the top 3 acorn nuts from the front of the door skin and was able to quickly access the nut from the inside of the door, which indeed was holding the mirror to the door/bracket. I also found that the 3 screws behind the belt line were missing which I will replace when I get the new mirror. For whatever reason the prior owner had the correct remote mirror however they did not have the toggle so the mirror was basically useless. I've opted to go with the tri-shield mirror from CARS and am awaiting for it to arrive. I'm slightly worried that the bracket they provide might need to be modified. Has anybody used this mirror before. I decided it would be easier to go with this mirror than cut a hole in the door panel, buy the toggle and then have to feed it thru the door. Thanks, Robert
  17. My horn just stopped working on my 64'. No sound or anything. Recommendations on where to check first? Thanks, Robert
  18. Trying to remove the remote mirror on my 64 and am having a hard time. I do not have the toggle on the inside so the cables are just sitting down in the door. I have the chassis manual and have removed the screw holding the mirror to the bracket but it won’t budge. Looks like the base of the mirror might sit on a metal dowel in addition to the two self tapping screws for the bracket? Do I just need to use a little force. Can’t get the damn thing to budge. Many help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Robert
  19. I just replaced mine on my 64 with a Carter fuel pump from Jegs. $28
  20. Yep. This is the same car. I wish I had more information surrounding the car.
  21. I'm 36 and I am on my second 1964 Riviera. I owned my first one 12 years ago when I was 24.
  22. Alright experts....I need some help. I live in central Ohio and after the car sitting for a couple months the weather warmed up a little so I decided to start my 64 up and take it for a little spin. After a couple cranks and pumping the gas pedal she started up (sat for a month), however a few minutes into running I observed fuel leaking from the fuel pump. I got under her and it appeared it was coming from the top end of the fuel pump and not the intake on the bottom side. It was flowing pretty good so I immediately turned it off. Got underneath her again and wiped it up and let it sit for a couple minutes. Then I decided I would fire it back up and then this time there was no leaking....dry as a bone. Let it run for quite awhile and the leaking was gone. Two weeks later, exact same scenario however i only pumped the gas pedal once, thinking that might have been the problem. Any recommendations on possible causes? I also took it to my mechanic which was approximately 15 miles away and he has not been able to reproduce the issues? Thanks in advance for the help!
  23. Thanks gentlemen. Great to have this forum and Rivi community.