Real Steel

Agreed. That's why a 6v starter motor will require cables that are larger than a 12v starter...to carry more current.

The last of the vintage Lincoln V-12's was a very different animal than the earlier V-12's. The early ones were built for very exclusive clientele, the later ones were not. I am not an expert on these engines, nor would I rebuild any of them for someone else. It may be a good idea to clarify your question.

And that's a good point too. I don't find either method faster though, and Google definitely has many more characters, at least compared to my vintage Win-7. Boy, is this off the topic or what?? My bad.

When I need an odd symbol of some sort, I type the key words into Google and there it is. Just copy and paste to your text. In this case, that's exactly what I did. But you could have just copied the "π" from the text that you were quoting. BTW, "c = 2 π r" looked odd to me too, so I asked Mr. Google to double check for me.

The valve stem will stop in the same clock position only if the distance rolled by THAT wheel is an exact multiple of that wheels circumference (c). However, there are many variables in the driving experience that can influence minute changes in the number of wheel revolutions when compared to the distance rolled (tire pressures, pot holes, turns...its a long list). These variables will certainly mess-up your calculations! Compressible rubber tires on vehicles means that you must measure from the center of the hub to the ground in order to determine the wheels radius (r). For cars, r is not the overall diameter divided by 2 (as with theoretical math). c = 2 π r. π = 3.14 Don't forget to keep all your calculations in the same unit of measure ('inches' for example). This should give you enough ammo to play, and to help you sleep better at night. If your kids ask whey you're laying down in the street with a measuring tape...tell them your doing math.

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A few days ago I replied to an AACA General Forum thread titled "safety - battery cut off switch". In my reply I showed a little bit of the cut-off switch that I installed in my unrestored 1930 Ford pickup. Since then I've received some requests to add more information about how the installation was performed. For the most part, installing a cut-off switch is fairly easy, especially for most of the folks on this site. The key to my switch...the thing that makes it different than most...is that the switch is mounted on the floor near the driver, and the switch is surrounded by a bezel that makes the switch look like it's supposed to be there (in my opinion anyway). On top of that, the floorboard is still easily removed without removing the switch or cables. This is not a set-up for cars that will be judged. You're on your own if you're going that route. Before I post the 14 photos that I selected for this, I have to tell you that the bezel was hand made from an old thin metal ashtray. Some folks get a bit put-off at the idea of hand fabricating something, but trust me, it was pretty easy. You will spend more time on eBay searching for a proper bezel candidate than you will spend fabricating the actual bezel. Rather than explaining everything in advance, I will just post the photos. I think the photos are mostly self explanatory, but you are welcome to ask questions and I'll do the best I can. One last thing: I didn't modify or damage any original parts of this vehicle. I did not permanently modify anything. I drilled no holes; I used only existing holes...with the exception of the plywood floorboard (which is an older after-market part). I encourage you to use similar discretion in how you install the cut-off switch in your piece of history.

Is this the stuff? You can buy it on eBay for $40. Not cheap, and it may be slightly past the "best if used by" date. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Indian-Head-Radiator-Cement-2-oz-Cardboard-Tin-Can-by-Permatex-/133182850332?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10

I would be the "Village Idiot" car. I sure as heck wouldn't want to be a "Smart" Car!

Hi John, I replied to your PM with the info you requested. If anyone else would like more info about this switch mounting method, I can post some photos in a new thread (I don't want to hijack this thread). Alex

For 1930s and older vehicles, I do know that sticking contact points at the generator cut-out is not so unusual. If the points remain closed after the motor is turned off, the battery will short right through the generator to ground. A lot of current can pass through a 16G wire, and a fire is very likely.

After a generator cut-out fire (right next to the carburetor) in my 1929 Hudson Coupe, I've installed a battery switch in every vintage vehicle that I've had since. I strongly encourage my friends to do the same (right Matt?). To all the great folks here at the AACA, please do this small safety modification to protect your historic vehicle, and possibly your life. This is my easy-to-reach switch mounted in my current unrestored daily driver, a 1930 Ford pickup...

Hmm, does the address on the building say "666"?

I love that great patina on your truck...it's rich in stories without uttering a sound! Its my hope that not all your vehicles will be restored, but rather that some will be left in their original unrestored state. The appreciation of original vehicles is one of the fastest growing corners of this lifestyle...and it's also the corner that looses more examples each year than any other element of the vintage car world.

I was trained as an aircraft mechanic, and I still have my FAA A&P licence. My directive was usually simple: replace hardware with the specified hardware, and fasten it per the specified method. Your question is too complex to pull the answer from a typical mechanic's resources. Instead, you need Engineering help...and it looks like you're getting it. Best of luck!

Hey Keiser- Maybe you or the next owner could give it a good spraying of Mineral Oil. At least that would put the brakes on the decay.

I like to keep mine original, so this is perfect for me. All I need now is a couple of dead horses...

Damn. We lost a little bit more...

Looks like a mid-1920's Chevrolet, but slightly different. Another GM product maybe? Or perhaps a European version?

Congrats on your 'new' lathe! A lathe is essential for working on vintage cars...and vintage anything! My first lathe (1938 Sheldon 11") looked much worse than yours, so don't fret. I just recently started my second lathe (1948 South Bend 9"), but it will be kept as 'original' as possible...just like my cars.

Have you heard the latest news?! They're going to take the Declaration Of Independence and restore it. Yep, turns out that some of the ink has faded and chipped, and the paper is mashed at the corners. The plan is to strip the ink off, bleach the paper, and then press it flat. The writing will be reapplied with carefully matching ink and rewritten in the same way it was done 'originally'. Truly, it will be 'restored to like new'. Sound absurd? Of course. Yet this is a completely accepted practice by vintage car owners. Antiques Roadshow experts say "keep it original" (yes, they say the word 'Original'). American Pickers also say the same thing. MANY people on this forum, and around this county and world, now say 'keep it original'. Peoples' definition of 'ORIGINAL' can vary greatly, but it would be ridiculous to get into an argument of semantics. In your hearts, you already know what an 'original' car is. At least for most of us anyway.

Five of my six kids had/have great old cars and trucks for their first rides. Here is one of my boys with his '68 Chevy pickup and me with my 31 Ford pickup.

BIG-3 in San Diego is Feb 22 and 23. http://www.big3partsexchange.com/

I bet it got over-heated at some point. Almost went boom. Its funny, the can says "Unique can design". Yeah, I'll say!