Steves Buick

Almost forgot, the tank sending unit is 30 ohm and so is your gauge, if your gauge reads empty or almost empty your sending unit line is grounding out somewhere. Best to match the two together. Dropping the tank is easy, a couple of straps then you can access your sending unit. Just support the tank with a board and floor jack, oh and make sure it's empty!! Or cut a hole in your truck or rumble seat floor and go in from above. Cheers.

I recently had my dash apart. I found it much easier to pull the gauges from the top side vs breaking my back lying on the floor. Just remove the upper wood trim piece, then the 4 bolts holding the entire dash to the body. Pull out the dash away from the body, will have to disconnect the cowl vent handle. Then you can easily see the 4 screws holding each gauge cluster. Take pix and mark your connections. Takes a couple of hours. I revineered my dash panels. Pm me if you get stuck!!

Well done..

Looks like its missing the inner tubes. These don't come around often..

At least wait until after Christmas, be sure to get the video on you tube and have your insurance card ready!! p.s......dont tell the wife what you're about to do !! we'll keep it a forum secret! 😃

Looking for a pair of side mount wheel covers, series 90 big wheels ..

Hey Bob, Is your woodgrain dash a decal or a veneer? Looks great, my decal is faded and I've thought of making a veneer replica. Cheers Steve

Hello guys thanks for your thoughts and responding, My 64 Etype was hit in the left rear wing, the color is signal red, the original color was opalescent maroon, the entire car will need a respray as my paint is lacquer and not compatible with this new water based paint I'm told. So does the value of original paint color equal the expense of changing it ? What would you do? I'm torn on this one.. not many maroon cars out there. Cheers, Steve

Make sure you have the proper size cables, run your negative battery cable directly to the starter. I don't a real need for a 8 volt battery if everything works. I use a 6 volt optima and it's fine.

Be prepared for the adjuster to total your car or give you an estimate that your body shop will not be able to fix your car for. Third party estimators are a sham job. Be tough and dig in, or you'll come out with the short end of the stick. Hate to saw it, but may consider an attorney.

Love it, nice job..

ED, I was experimenting with petronix, looking for a hotter spark thats it. It ran slightly better and allot of guys have used it for years with out issue despite the obvious drawbacks of electronics. I hope to meet you at the next National meet in Lisle Ill. I'll bring my 32 Buick, always appreciate your contributions to the forum. Tesla for me or anyone on this forum... highly unlikely!!

Thanks Straight 8 Dave, I totally rebuilt my heat riser assembly then blocked it off as recommended on this forum. Of course I rebuilt the marvelous Marvel to spec. I dialed in the carb, and it ran fine, except for the slight richness in the center 4 cylinders. That's when I thought a hotter spark and maybe hotter plugs in those center 4 cylinders, enter the petronix and the 45000v flame thrower coil. Runs great better than new almost.. I'm thinking of going back to unplugging the heat riser as I recently pulled plugs on an untouched 96s running on ethanol free fuel. All 8 plugs had an even burn pattern, my cylinder temps are all even and fuel air mixture seems correct, I increased the spark plug gap .05 and cant tell the difference. when I get the perfect combo I'll post it. Nothing wrong with petronix, its not the heat that causes failure it the EMI. Amazon sells a remote temp sensing 4 channel unit for $35.00 if you want to see what temps are, my engine runs cool @ 130 F. So I'm thinking you're correct about leaving the heat riser operationally stock, but first I'll try balance cylinder burn with a hotter plug. This engine runs as good as any, I prefer 100% stock but if I can improve ignition and fuel delivery why not. Just striving for the best performance of an old engine, the Buick engineers deserve allot of credit.

Agreed with all post, Edinmas pretty much nailed it as it was running fine before I changed coils. My center inboard 4 cylinders run a bit rich, so I was experimenting with hotter spark plugs in those 4 cylinders, outer cylinders are fine. So thats why I went to the hot coil. I'll go back to points if I have another problem. Thanks for the comments. Other note of interest, a brass era friend showed me a neat trick, he put a small piece zinc on a welding rod and hung it in his radiator. I tried it and was impressed how well it worked after a week.

Hi all, just a heads up, I had installed the Petronix electronic ignition module in my 1932 96s and it ran great until I installed the .6 ohm 45000 volt flame thrower coil. What happened was that the module fried itself by Electro magnetic interference due to my mistake of leaving the solid core wires on the car. Like I said it ran fine for 200+ miles with a 1.5 ohm 6 volt coil, there is a thing called the corona effect of EMI around the solid core wires. The new coil apparently exemplified this to the point of failure. Petronix people were great and pointed out that on the instructions they state suppression wires are required, they also gave me a great deal on the second module. My mistake just thought I'd pass that along. I would recommend carrying a spare module or the old points in case of failure.

Here are the pages from the spec and adjustments book. I fabbed up a crank shaft spinner for a 1/2 " breaker bar. Pull the plugs when setting points and always keep rotation same direction, ie. don't back up if you pass your mark. That removes the lash. Also can use a vom and timing light to gain accuracy. Runs well with points, but I think better w electronics.

Just install a petronix module, flame thrower coil and suppression wires from the brillman company, works great and no time trying to get the points perfect. But when/if the module fails you will be dead in the water. Points can be nursed and will give a warning prior to failure allowing you to find a good spot to pull over. Just my 2 cents.

I agree with Bob, my 32 had a backing plate, bolts secure it.

I've found this John deere filter fits the after market canister better than anything else.

They come out pretty easily, once you chissle a grove being careful to not damage the heat riser casting. I pressed some new tubing that I sourced from a muffler shop. Works great.

Dont even mess with the dual points, just install the petronix module and be done with it.. mine runs great. No need to change distributers, they make one for the four lobe cam. But be sure to check your fly weights and springs before you press the rotor on the shaft. The 32 has mechanical advance dual points, the 8 lobber has vac advance I believe as in 33,34 and newer.

Hi Stamm, Great advice given so far, have you taken off the float bowl cover to see exactly where the fuel level is? is your float arm straight, have you examined the rubber on your metering pin? is your float binding against the bowl wall? does it run with the float cover off? sometimes the cover may bind the float arm if its set too high. have you checked the fuel intake screen? glass bead it if you havent done so. If it ran fine and the only thats changed is a different float, then dont mess with ignition timing, have you checked your fuel source, electric/mechanical pump output? will it run with choke pulled? I scribed a line like Bob recommended and was very accurate to spec factory setting on my series 90/ fuel level and float level are 2 different things. As for ignition, I dumped the points and installed the petronix electronic, works great. I have broken the code on how to make a marvel run as originally installed, took awhile!!! PM me if I can be of more help. S

Thanks, great help..

Do you need a pix of the visor hardware? I have a 32 model 90, happy to show you the visor hardware if thats what you're looking for.

Looks like 16-120, or 13-108, I need to get a a master parts list, thats a great resource, Thank you.. Steve