Bloo

Then head a few blocks south to Boulevard Park and grab this sedan....

Everybody hates these except people who have owned and driven one. They hang on to them for decades. I gather from earlier postings the guy who owns this one is 100 years old.

It must be free wheeling. It looks like it all grew together, and there is a Chevrolet emblem, and Chevrolet never had overdrive in the prewar era. From a brino post on the VCCA forums: https://vccachat.org/ubbthreads.php/topics/253482/1934-master-transmission-casting-number.html

The disadvantage there with Dubonnet, compared to a more conventional short-arm/long-arm suspension, is that there is no camber gain in compression, so less grip in corners. A short-arm/long-arm independent suspension has the tie rods ends in very specific points in space to avoid bump steer. As the suspension moves up and down, the tie rod does not steer the spindle over most of the available suspension travel. Any deviation in tie rod length or location screws it all up, so yeah Dubonnet has an advantage there. Dubonnet can have a little bump steer though. It still has that one rod going back from the spindle to the steering box that steers both wheels even though they are locked together. They kept that rod long and nearly level to minimize movement.

Pic 1 & 2 - 1935 208ci. Pic 3 & 4 - 1940 223 or 1941-1948 239ci. It would probably take a bit more detective work to figure out exactly.

Except that those 308 sixes were as fast or faster than any V8 American cars you could buy at the time.

That should be OK.

Yellow - to headlight filaments. One yellow for high, the other yellow for low. Red - both to 12v power (fuse 2 and fuse 5 are then automatically used for headlights, choose appropriate fuses) Black - both to ground White - connect to existing headlight wires, one white for high, the other white for low. Blue - 4 fused circuits using fuses 1,3,4,and 6. Also powered by 12v from red wires. Not used or needed for headlights.

BSP is the British standard, not American. I don't think those threads are the same.

That "axle" thing is heavy and thick. I'm surprised it cracked. Kingpins wore out fast on every car of that age, so nothing special there. The main weakness of Dubonnet was the bushings or bearings and seals where the shafts entered the Dubonnet unit. When worn, they wouldn't hold oil, and when out of oil they just floated up and down in an extremely annoying manner, enough to make you seasick. They are famous for this problem, and it is probably what took most of them off of the road. A family my parents knew well retired their 1935 Chevrolet because of this. A car equipped with a good working Dubonnet is going to drive much better than a car with a straight axle.

You didn't change anything. Oldtech is not wrong, but since you are using all the original parts I don't see how you could need a longer linkage. If I am reading this right, the only thing new here is the crank flange on the 235. I don't think that is at a different height. Even if it was at a different height, you would typically correct that at the throw out bearing or fork pivot, not the linkage. If you just extended the linkage the fork would be at a different angle, probably causing bad or at least sub-optimal clutch action. Could the clutch disc be in upside down?

Normally the plug is held against unthreading with a cotter pin.

It goes on the intake manifold somewhere. Look all around for a plug.

@neil morse has it right, that is a petcock to drain coolant from the engine block. The threads are "NPT" or "National Pipe Thread" as used in the US and most of North America. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/National_pipe_thread It is hard to tell from the picture what size NPT, but maybe 1/8". In the Wikipedia link, scroll down to the "standard sizes" table, check the "Actual outside diameter D" column, and pick the closest one. It will not be an exact number because the threads are tapered. Buick straight eights often had the oil filter plumbed in series with the oil supply to the head. I do not know for sure if this is correct for your car.

I don't think you should be able to break a steering linkage. That sounds crazy to me. Now to be fair, radials do have more grip, so if you were cornering at higher speeds and G-loads than would be practical on the bias ply tires, then you would indeed be putting more stress on the wheels and suspension..... Do I think your steering linkage should fall apart? No. I can't help but wonder exactly what broke. Pontiacs had the first parallelogram steering I think with an idler arm about 1938(?). Most other cars not until years later, and those with independent suspension usually had a pittman arm on the steering box and a bellcrank in the middle of the crossmember. The bellcrank was a persistent wear problem. A little slop in the bellcrank bearings turns into a lot by the time it gets to the wheels. Adjustable tie rod ends were often used in the older cars too, and if allowed to get too worn out those will just fall apart. Ball socket parts for those are usually available, but sometimes the balls get oval and need to be replaced before the socket will adjust.

This^^ Up in the beautiful PNW, that kind of tire machine is called a "Rim Clamp". They have become common these days. Normally they do not touch the wheel. Years ago when I worked in shops with traditional tire machines (Coats 40-40 and similar), almost no one would touch a wire wheel. None of the places I worked at would do it. It was forbidden. The concern was that you might bend the wheel, and you might! We had nylon tips for the traditional machines, so could handle nice wheels without scratching the finish. Wires though? Nope. Now almost every tire shop has a rim clamp. As others have suggested, I would still avoid the discount places that cater to normal cars. A rim clamp when set properly wont touch the rim, but you still need to break the bead loose, and the thing that breaks it loose is mounted on the side of the machine. There is a lot of power behind it. It is less dangerous to the wheel than a traditional machine because the wheel is not tied down at the center, but still think an idiot could figure out how to damage a wheel with it.

Up here in the beautiful PNW people did that to Hudsons and everything else in the 80s. Little if any corrosive stuff used on the roads back then, and there were plenty of really old cars still in daily service. All the hand wringing about radials on bias rims is a 21st century Internet phenomenon. If someone had suggested to me that there was a problem doing that when I was a kid busting tires in a gas station I would have looked at them like they were from outer space. Going from tube-type to tubeless would have at least prompted a conversation. Spoiler: That usually doesn't matter either. Everything in the post above assumes "drop center" type rims, like a 50s Hudson would normally have. The only side effects of radials are the car will drive straighter, feel more stable at speed, and have less tire trouble. There is nothing inherently wrong with a bias ply tire though. We got by with them for years. They do have the right look. Anyone who has reservations about this should probably stick with bias ply. Also anyone who will insist on using the factory recommended tire pressures should stick with bias ply. Radials want considerably more pressure.

Could that be 59 instead of 69? How about 57-64 Olds/Pontiac?

They might have done it wrong. It takes special tools to adjust from scratch. Minor adjustments are easy, but if they turned the wrong adjusters, it might have to be set up with the drums off using a tool to correctly locate the shoes. @keithb7 here on the forum has some videos on youtube under "Keiths Garage" about these Lockheed brakes. Here are three. There could be others. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FPNQQo1mAc4&pp=ygUVMTkzOCBwbHltb3V0aCBicmFrZWVz https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rv3joEoIwyA&pp=ygUVMTkzOCBwbHltb3V0aCBicmFrZWVz https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GMkHgPXmt68&pp=ygUVMTkzOCBwbHltb3V0aCBicmFrZWVz

Maybe? I would have guessed Lithium. I bought a bunch of "Marfak #2" I found in a bulk plant after it was discontinued so I could keep using it. I knew this stuff from my gas station days decades ago. Marfak was Texaco, and Marfak #2 is general purpose chassis lube, kind of brown/yellow/gray in color. This is the stuff that was normal in the 70s-60s and probably the 50s. OK for wheel bearings, and that was what we used, but it was not dedicated wheel bearing grease. It was high quality grease, but ordinary. Probably every other oil brand had something similar, and I imagine it had the same base as everybody else's chassis grease. It did look kind of different than the others. You weren't supposed to mix grease in those days, and this got squirted in the zerks of everything that came in for a lube job. "Long fiber wheel bearing grease" is very different, if you've had it in your hands you'll know. I mentioned in my post above how hard it was to locate any of that around 1978. Everybody still knew what it was, nobody had any. Short fiber wheel bearing grease has also been mentioned in this thread. I don't know what that is.

I thought I understood it until I saw that picture. I think mine just had a nut at the end (it's gone). That pic looks like there might be more to it than just a long threaded rod. Can you get at the top end to hold it maybe? Unfortunately I suspect it might be broken. If it won't just adjust I think you have to take the door apart.

Not recommended, but it will probably run and charge. Ammeter will read backwards. Spark might be weak. If it's got an M6 transmission, it might not shift (not sure). Sometimes even the radio will work, but I wouldn't count on it. You might damage something. Voltage regulators in those days had various precious metals on the various point contacts, and those would be backwards, so the regulator points might not last long. Gauges could vary. Any electric ones in a Chrysler are probably thermal, and might even read correctly (not sure).

That is looking good! I wish I had patterns. My back doors have nothing below the regulator board left. How was the bottom board originally clearanced for the drains on that back door?

Does the whole thing turn or just a stripped nut? The end of the one on my 36 passenger door is completely missing. That picture is a 36 door, the rod should be going the opposite direction in a 35 but otherwise about the same.

You won't know until it is apart. All normal wear is in the bushings, and they do wear out fast compared to the rest of the chassis. Bad axle holes should never happen, but sometimes do. That falls more in the category of major repairs. Back then, it usually meant boring the holes oversize and using an oversize pin kit. Then any replacements have to be oversize, and you need to be able to ream the bushings oversize. It really isn't a good solution. I like @demco32's solution much better, although I might use something tougher than bronze.