Bloo

#3, 1967 Dodge Coronet 500

Well, I can't prove it, but I think shifter parts from a Buick or Pontiac or whatever would work. In fact, I think all the monkey motion parts are the same. One would have to mind the shape of the shift lever, which could vary. I have some pictures of the interior of a 36 Olds that would probably show the shift lever. Let me know if you need and I will dig for them. IIRC we do have another person on the forum restoring a 36 Olds, but I just can't seem to remember who it is. I am sort of surprised he hasn't ducked in here. How good or bad is the wood in your back doors?

Frank Mance Plating, of Pittsburgh PA

I'm looking for a headlight reflector screw now, also used in 1936 Buick. Pontiac calls it #217504, and my Buick parts book doesn't list it at all, although you can clearly see some in this picture of 1936 Buick headlight buckets from an old (2011) for sale thread here on the AACA forums. It is just a number 6 flathead screw, but has an undersized head. It matters because it sits in the bottom of the channel for the lens gasket. You can see how much bigger the head on a hardware store screw is here. Does anyone have one they would sell? Doesn't need to be nice, just functional. Or, does anyone know the Buick part number so I can search properly? I am getting nowhere with the Pontiac number.

Reflectors are back!

Yeah, that looks a lot flatter. I am trying to figure out whether a Buick mat will work in the Pontiac. Thanks!

Dole Fitting? Where did you hear that? I hope you are right because I have never been able to put a name to them. Midland Metals still make them, and you can get them at Blackhawk Supply online. "Threaded Sleeve" and "Double Compression" are how I have seen them listed recently. https://blackhawksupply.com/collections/plumbing-brass-fittings-double-compression?view=grid-24

Considering you have spark, compression, tried a different plug, etc. this is most likely the answer. Vacuum wipers are disconnected and plugged? Right at the manifold? Good. Got power brakes? Do the same. Does this nailhead have the exhaust passages that run up through the manifold and contact the baseplate of the carb directly? The exhaust has been known to eat the gasket and throttle body up. If you have that setup it is possible for exhaust to be leaking into an intake passage. Technically its called a "dilution misfire", but the result is the same as an ordinary vacuum leak, a horrible miss. This probably isn't it since you have good compression, but I wouldn't rule it out, and if you can't find a intake leak this probably comes next.

This. The TC is probably the most misunderstood car on the planet (and this thread isn't helping).

You won't believe all the monkey motion in that shifter when you find all the parts.

Having a huge hole somewhere in the middle is probably counterproductive. Some engines have bigger transfer ports toward the rear of the engine. The hardest thing is getting coolant flowing through the rear of an engine when both the inlet and outlet are at the front. Putting a huge port or two out in the middle sounds like a bad idea. My gut says trust Ed and the gasket maker.

Congratulations!

Motor oil wouldn't have done that... unless it was used...

Don: I don't doubt that, but if I found a mess like the one in the pictures I wouldn't leave anything to chance. Last fall I fixed a Chevrolet with .022 bellhousing misalignment and a bunch of slop in the pilot bushing.

Must have got really hot? I would for sure check the crank alignment to the bellhousing hole before you put it back together.

That sure looks like an Olds transmission to me, with the open driveline setup and a short tail. Is there some kind of pad around the shifter mechanism? Where is the shifter? Buick/Pontiac transmissions with a short tower have a really screwy mechanism in the top to make that shifter tower so short. Are you really sure the shift pattern is backwards? I believed all those ultra-short shift towers worked the same unitl this thread. Does the shift tower look like this? Picture from Gary W's restoration thread. Transmission is 37 Buick.

I have seen one many years ago. Those were rear engine buses. In the AD trucks, the Chevrolet (with the 216/235) had the radiator mounted to the rear of the core support, and the GMC had the radiator mounted on the front of the core support because the GMC six was longer. It barely fits. The 263 is probably even longer, but given the small bore (and the GMC's large one) maybe it wouldn't be that far off, you would have to measure. Keep in mind the GMC was a cram job. Buicks had longer sheetmetal in the front to accommodate the 320. It is considerably longer than the smaller eights.

I have not heard of any exceptions. The basic transmission design used in Buick 40/Special (but not the bigger Buicks) was used in Oldsmobiles. It was also used in Pontiacs from late 1935 on. An Olds transmission will be set up for an open driveline. A Buick will be set up with w Buick-style torque tube and have the speedometer gear running above the centerline of the output shaft.. A late 1935-1936 Pontiac will be set up for a Chevrolet-style torque tube, and have the speedometer gears running below the centerline of the output shaft. A 1937 Pontiac version is set up for open driveline, but has a crazy-long output shaft, and the speedometer gears above the centerline of the output shaft.

It should be rotated 90 degrees left, and the clips should hold the bearing back against the fork.

I like being able to come here and ask (and read) restoration questions and not be completely buried in non-restoration answers, so I just checked the restoration and related 25 year and older categories. That said, I don't think absolute rigidity would be a good thing. I think the moderators are doing a great job here.

Probably closer to 90 or 100 in 1949. The change to an 80 (or 82) aspect ratio for American tires occurred around 1965. Most of the new sizes ended in a "5" instead of a "0". For instance, 6.70-15 is a size that existed before the changeover, and 7.75-14 is one that probably didn't.

The bad front bearing certainly explains it popping out of gear, but why did the bearing fail? Be sure to check the condition of the pilot bearing in the back of the crankshaft. I would also check the bellhousing alignment with regard to the crank. As for the RTV, I don't like that either, but the bellhousing acts as the front bearing retainer, and the oil return is right there, so I'll bet there supposed to be a gasket. Let us know what you find out.

In this 41 Limited, you can see the two parallel pieces of "windlace" over the door. The lower one is actual windlace, and the upper one is wire-on. The windlace continues around the door, while the wire-on diverges and stays along the edge of the headliner. Wire-on is tacked in place, then folded over on top of itself to cover the tacks. The wire makes it stay folded. PFitz posted a bunch of pictures of wire-on in this thread:

It is probably one of two methods. In the first, the windlace and headliner are tacked down. and then a piece of "wire-on" is tacked on, The wire-on folds over and covers the tacks. The end result looks like the car has two pieces of windlace running parallel. In the second, there would be toothed metal strips that the edge tucks under and gets caught in the hooks. The windlace tacks on, the metal strip screws on (a little further up), and then the edge of the headliner gets stretched/hooked under and tucked with a headliner tool or a broad flat knife. Find some pictures of cars like yours, and see whether it looks like one piece of windlace or two.That will tell the story.

Whats a gutter strip?