Bloo

Also pay attention to which way the rotor turns. The firing order goes in the same direction around the cap.

The serial is probably an aluminum tag on top of the frame up at the left front somewhere. On my 1936 its right by the steering box. The car might be titled to that, or it might be titled to the engine number. I suspect you will find the engine number at the left front of the block, just below the head. I'm not sure that holds for 1933, but it would be a good place to look. There should be an aluminum fisher body tag on the firewall that might tell you some things about the paint, upholstery and options. It may have a body number, but that is not vehicle ID.

There wouldn't need to be any big cables if the batteries were dry cells to hotshot a magneto for easier starting. That was pretty common before electric starter-generators. Smaller wires would do. It could easily be older than 1914 and still be a battery box.

No. You will get 100 opinions. The old highly regarded original, who have been advertising this service so long I can't even remember when it started (1970s?), is White Post Restorations. They use brass. They also have an outright ban on silicone brake fluid. It will void your warranty. Plenty of people in these forums, myself included, have speculated why that might be. Only the owner of White Post knows for sure. I am not currently using silicone fluid in any antiques, but I have used it in the past and am not going to rule it out in the future. Some other outfit was using stainless back in the day, but I think they were only putting sleeves in Corvette disc brakes. If I remember correctly the first general sleeving services to pop up other than White Post used stainless. Today there are multiple vendors for either material. I like stainless, but I'm not committed to it. If you can't decide, throw a dart.

It depends on how you do it. In every kit I have seen for an antique the ground wire is necessary, because the module grounds the coil through the breaker plate just like the points did. The wire to the points on the other hand is not because there are no points to connect it to. Once upon a time, in the 70s, there were optical kits that put the ignition module out on the firewall (Crane?) and only had an optical trigger inside the distributor, so no ground on the breaker plate was needed. Similarly, some magnetic triggered systems, like Chrysler Electronic, Ford DuraSpark, etc. had only a magnetic trigger in the distributor that was not grounded in any way. People have used parts from factory made systems like this in custom made conversions. Pertronix kits on the other hand, and other similar things, typically put the whole ignition module inside the distributor and have 2 wires that go in. One is power for the module. the second is the wire to fire the coil (a replacement for the old points wire). The module grounds through the breaker plate, both for it's own power, and to ground the coil to fire the points. If a ground wire was necessary with the points, it still is. I think electronic conversions are not a great idea on 6 volt cars, but you will get plenty of different opinions about that.

Oops. I meant southern yellow pine. I edited the post. The species of pine lumber that comes from the southern US is quite hard and substantial. It really is all by itself among pines you might consider making a body out of. Out west we see it in pallets among other things, but it does not grow here. That is the wood that allegedly turned up in a few Fisher bodies. No pine is technically a hardwood, but whether something is a hardwood or softwood has nothing to do with how hard or soft it is. As I understand it, it is more of a technical detail about how the species of tree grows. Balsa is a hardwood for instance. The Pines that grow in Washington (Ponderosa, etc.) are fairly soft and tend to split. They make fine 2x4s to build a house from, but would be terrible body wood.

Which HEI fits in a Buick Special Eight? Was it modified to make it fit?

What kind of ignition system does it have? If it is an ordinary points distributor, that sounds about right. If it is Atwater Kent Unisparker, or if it is a magneto, I would search by the maker of the ignition rather than Studebaker.

Looking good!

That picture is fairly deceptive I think, due to the camouflage of the stripes, the contrast, and possibly some camera distortion. Some parts look extremely familiar to me, like the contour of the name plate below the main window, the shape of the window that says "Ethyl", and the area where the hose enters and the nozzle hangs up. I vote for the Wayne 70, specifically the version of the Wayne 70 with the sight glass at the top.

Ash is preferred. I don't know about any "cheap gum wood". Maple should be fine I think. It is going to be a lot heavier than Ash. Elm is rot resistant, but I understand it is very difficult to machine. I have heard from Canadians that Fisher Body often used hard maple north of the border. Fisher may be a special case. The volume was so high, and they had lumber contracts tied up all over the US and Canada, even here in Washington State. Spoiler: not much Ash grows here in Washington. It is mostly evergreen, not hardwood. We do have Alder but it tends to be just sticks. Fisher advertised that they used only hardwood, although I have heard of people occasionally finding Southern Yellow Pine. My 36 Pontiac has a bunch of rotten wood in the doors. I tried to identify it by the end grain structure and I think it is mostly Beech, although some parts are Ash. Beech is not a good choice. My guess is that if you bought an expensive car you probably got ash, and if you bought a cheap one you got whatever was available.

I believe Apple uses brass. If it's brass you want they are probably the way to go. If you want stainless, try Brake and Equipment of Minneapolis, MN.

Before you do ANYTHING take the cover off of the player and look at the belt. They turn to goo that is almost impossible to remove. I don't even know how to remove it. If that happened, you definitely don't want to fire up the motor and spread that around. Just take the covers off and look. On all 8 tracks, the belt is out front and obvious. It will be looped around the motor and a big flywheel. To your original question, if the player is combined with a radio, you might need the power on. I don't remember. Otherwise just shove the tape in there. There is no switch. If there is an eject button use it, but there probably isn't. Just pull the tape out until it is past the click to stop.

Have you forgotten how truly awful that flex tube was? It is still made, and I bought a short piece at Oreilly a couple of years ago, just to scab something together to get a truck to the exhaust shop. It was fine for that I guess.

Ash has always been the preferred wood for bodies, at least in the US. Chances are that Hupmobile had Ash. Is it really true that Ash is difficult to get on the west coast now? I bought a bunch of it off the shelf in Seattle only about 3 years ago.

Yes. Some also use it to force gas forward in cases of vapor lock. You can in theory push fuel through the fuel line and mechanical pump all the way to the carb, at least if there is liquid fuel at the inlet of the electric pump. That is the reason for getting the pump back as far as possible. Gas can boil in the line under the car from the heat radiated from the pavement.

I can't tell what is going on in that photo. On any distributor like yours, where the vacuum advance moves the breaker plate and the connection to the outside is a binding post, there are TWO wires. One is insulated and connects the binding post to the points (and condenser). The other is usually bare and connects from the moving breaker plate to the distributor housing. These are special wires with strands of copper and strands of spring steel. If you use regular copper wire it probably won't last long. The breaker plate is constantly moving back and forth when you drive. Copper work hardens and can't take a lot of bending before it breaks. If you can't get those wires for your make and model from one of the Chrysler parts suppliers, some common ones from much later will work. The bare one is easy. For one about an inch and a half long including the ring terminals, look at a 1960s V8 Ford. 1960s Chrysler ones are slightly longer I think. 1960s GM/Chevrolet V8 wires are a little longer yet. As for the insulated one, I don't know exactly, but Buick used something like that from the 1930s until the mid 50s, so maybe one of the Buick suppliers would have something useful.

I don't know if it will help in your search, but what you probably need is undersize bearings. Those would be for an undersize crank. An oversize bearing insert is for an oversize hole, and is a much rarer beast because an oversize hole in a rod or block can often be corrected by resizing the rod or align boring the block. With the common type of bearing inserts neither of those holes are wearing surfaces. Machine work is necessary anyway if they become damaged.

Brake and Equipment of Minneapolis, MN sleeves cylinders in stainless. https://brakeandequipment.com/

If you are going to put an electric pump on, put it as far back toward the tank as possible. No, that won't help. It helps when the car sat for a couple days or more and the gas evaporated out of the carburetor, and the fuel pump has to refill the carburetor bowl before the engine can start. That is quite a different situation than "cold". For the car to start easy and run good cold, you need a properly working choke, period.

Try this view then, with the chandler on the right. The white building straight ahead is the back side of Subway. Highway runs right/left in front of Subway. https://www.google.com/maps/@47.0579141,-109.4396878,3a,90y,180h,87.18t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1sz67ttvfRecK34VePOJNYlg!2e0!7i13312!8i6656?hl=en-US

I just saw it when I stopped to eat, so I know nothing more. It appears to be acting as yard art. There were some much newer unrestored antiques parked at the house, you can see one of them to the left of the Chandler. Here is a google street view. I wouldn't believe the address without more digging as I believe they are only approximate. You can back out of street view and see it on a map. The google pic is from 2013 and the Chandler looks way worse. Weird. My picture in the earlier post is from a couple months ago. https://www.google.com/maps/@47.0579141,-109.4396878,3a,15y,254.1h,87.18t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1sz67ttvfRecK34VePOJNYlg!2e0!7i13312!8i6656?hl=en-US

The car would benefit from a properly operating choke no matter where you live.

I am resistant to the idea of electric pumps, and a well sorted mechanical pump can work fine in hot weather. My 36 Pontiac went all over the place in 104F-106F for the last few summers. That said, if you are going to do it, the method @Jim Nelson (and a few others on the forum) advocate, with a switch, and only used when needed, is by far the best way. The problem of having to crank a long time after an extended sit because all the gas is evaporated is a very real one. I'll admit it would be extremely convenient to push a button. Take @Jim Nelson's advice and put it in the back as close to the tank as you can. That way it can push fuel through a boiled line under the car. If you put it up front, it will struggle to get a prime when that happens just like the mechanical pump does. Note: That is not the only form of "vapor lock", just a very common one. There are several other ways a car can fail to start or run because of heat. Maybe, but the "dry carb after a sitting a few days" issue happens to almost everyone these days. On the other hand, 37-38 Buicks were famous for choke problems. Do you have an original carb? Do you have a Delco choke? That is a separate box mounted down on the manifold that twists a cable. Someone else on here may know best how to sort that out. A carb from a slightly newer Buick Eight with a Carter-type hot air choke (a round housing up by the choke plate) is a common way to get rid of the Delco choke if you intend to. You do have to arrange a hot air stove to feed the Carter-type choke, but it is not tough to do. In my opinion manual choke conversions are rubbish.

Is that before or after? That sure looks like a cellular core in the pics.