Bloo

Someone did that. Germany was defeated in 1945.

Do you have a sock in your tank?

That's the one.

Are they molded? If so, it's a fairly expensive undertaking. @37_Roadmaster_C had some 1937 Roadmaster boards done up in Canada, and I understand they came out very nice. I'll try to find out who did them.

Ok, but what goes on the spline? I'm betting that isn't a sliding spline like a newer (post-1965) Mopar, because I see threads out past the spline. I'll bet when you put on whatever piece goes on that spline, and tighten it up, it will clamp that gear solid.

Yeah. It really never used to cause much damage in the old days, unless you really pushed your luck. It probably never happened to him. I hear of it happening all the time now. The fuel has changed and it rots faster. I had it happen on a Ford 390 and the gas was only about 2-3 years old. It glued the valve guides solid and bent a bunch of pushrods. It took stuffing the cylinders with twine, removing the valve springs, and then lots of penetrating oil and brake kleen, lots of tapping with a brass hammer and working the valves to get them unstuck over a period of a couple of days. The engine in question has over 200k miles on it, and those guides are NOT tight, but they got glued solid anyway. It has been mentioned that the Lincoln in question may have a plastic timing chain set. If it has one, that needs to come out immediately whether it has failed or not. It may have failed on it's own and may be the reason the car won't run. On the other hand if the valves stuck, that could have easily raked the teeth off. I believe I would start with a compression test and a leakdown test and see where that leads.

My last load of chrome work went to Librandis, and I recommend them too. All chrome shops have a long lead time. Librandi's delivered a few days ahead of schedule, and the work was top notch. The longish lead time seems to exist at all chrome plating shops. There are several old forum threads here worth reading. You'll probably come up with a list of 3 or 4 in the entire USA and maybe a couple more in Canada that get good reviews from people around this forum. All the time involved in a GOOD chrome job is prep work. Chrome is expensive anywhere. You can easily spend just as much on a crappy job as a good one. If it winds up peeling back off after a couple of years, then you get to do it again, and you are just out all that money you spent at the first shop. If the first shop ground all the detail out of your parts because they were in a hurry, then you get to re-buy those too, assuming you can even get replacements. I have told this story before I think, but one day back in the 90s I was having lunch with a custom car builder and two other guys who used to work in a plating shop. Thanks to some peeling bumpers in the parking lot, the conversation turned to plating. Those 2 former platers were adamant. "Always get show chrome if you want it to last".

How does your driveshaft attach? Is there a flange on the output shaft? If so, what holds the flange on?

Keep the success stories coming! This is a very useful thread.

My knee jerk reaction is nothing less than 45 pounds, and I would not be tempted to compare a 15 inch bias tire with an 18 inch one at the same width. An 18 inch tire at 7.5 inches of section width is probably on a big and heavy car. Too much pressure will at worst will cause faster tire wear at the center of the tread. Too little pressure will cause tire failure. I would say post the make, model, and year and then get @edinmass in the thread.

It may not have a drain. The lowest bolt on the rear pan can act as a drain. It will drain very slowly. The plug on the pan is the fill plug. The bolts in @kgreen's picture should not be disturbed. They hold the pinion bearing in place. EDIT: you posted while I was typing. Yes.

The competition drives a Plymouth....

That sounds like a typical day adjusting valves. 🤪 For extra fun, try a flathead Pontiac, sticking your three(!) wrenches in the side of the engine, using your three hands, under the manifolds, with your wrist against the hot exhaust. When people talk easily about adjusting valves with the engine running I just laugh to myself and wonder if they have actually done it. There are wrench/screwdriver contraptions to make that easier on overhead valve engines if you think you must. Anywhere in the factory spec clearance range will be fine as far as the engine is concerned. If you want that purring noise, and no individual valves that sound louder than the others, all the intakes and all the exhausts much match each other. Here is what I would do. Set them cold, .001-.002 loose, and then just check them hot. Yes the engine may cool off and you may have to put the cover back on partway through and run the engine some more, probably even put it back together and drive it. Believe it or not, the clearances stabilize differently while driving compared to idling in the shop. The coolant probably gets hotter idling slow without moving, but the exhaust valves get hotter on a hard run. Pop the cover off quickly and CHECK them. The go-nogo method is good, but a magnet or gooseneck mounted dial indicator on the tip of the rocker is better. If wear has dented the tips of the rockers where they contact the valve stem, your feeler gauges will be fooled, and in a seemingly random way. The dial indicator sees through this ruse. I like to pop the distributor cap off, put the car in reverse, grab a front wheel and rock the car back while watching the rotor and points to get to TDC on the next cylinder, and the next, and the next, just following the firing order. Have a drawing or chart ready showing each valve to write down what clearance you find. You can try to fix them as you go, or not. Either way, I doubt you would get all of sixteen of them done on an eight before the engine cools off too much and you have to take it out and run it some more.

Speaking generally about malaise era Chrysler manuals, because I admit I can't remember much about the EFI manual, I will say this. Chrysler had excellent manuals in the 50s and 60s, but by the time Lean Burn came along in the late 70s, the manuals just led to frustration. They are full of flow charts that seem to deliberately hide how the system works. The charts are only useful when there is only one thing wrong. Lean burn cars are excellent performers when they work right, and get better gas mileage than you would think possible. I doubt very many got fixed correctly. Certainly not with those flow charts. Chrysler may have been motivated by fear that their technology would be stolen. If so, they really shot themselves in the foot.

I always find it curious people get so hung up on this. Having worked on cars from all over the world, one thing that stands out is that most if not all of the countries who got into the automotive game early call it a motor or something similar. We English speakers are all by ourselves in insisting on calling it an "engine", and we don't even do it consistently. We have motoring, motorboat, motorcar, motorway (UK), Mopar (it's a contraction of Motor Parts), motel (a contraction of motor and hotel) and the list goes on. Italian -- motore French -- moteur German -- motor Swedish -- motor Czech -- motor .....ad infinitum

Yes.

That 1917 Hupmobile "N" was easy to fall in love with! I don't remember how it was priced, and wouldn't have a clue about it's value in dollars anyway, other than I am well aware that the 1915/1916 breakover is a substantial price difference in nearly any make due to the HCCA national tour eligibility issue. That car was offered at various venues, sometimes accurately represented and sometimes not. I have a big pile of 1915 and 1916 "N" parts that belonged to my father. I have been reading a lot about these cars lately, trying to learn what I have and whether it might be possible for me to finish the project. I still have a lot to learn.

That EFI system does not deserve the hate it gets from people who never gave it a chance. It is very advanced for it's time. In my opinion it's lack of success had more to do with mechanics aversion to learning something new and Chrysler's obfuscated manuals than any problem with the system. I'll admit it is not easy to figure out how to work on one. Chrysler's method of measuring air mass was ingenious, and probably deserves a thread of it's own. If I could remember enough I might post it. Good on you for saving that car intact.

Item 1 is definitely related. Item 2 will probably get even better as the repairs break in and you continue to fine tune things. Item 3 is excellent news. I doubt there is any relation to timing. More timing is better until the point it isn't.

There's no reason to ever completely replace a solenoid on one of these unless a winding burns out. Since you have tended to the copper bolts, you should be all set for a long time. The copper bolts are the only common failure part in these solenoids.

The car in this thread is a model R. I believe it HAS to be 1917 or newer. Hupmobiles are well documented compared to most makes of that period. It should be fairly easy to establish what year it was made by the car number. 1917 was the first year for the model R. It was popular and remained in production for a very long time. The other 1917 Hupmobile mentioned was a 1915-1917 model N with a whole raft of 1917 specific features, as enumerated by Max Burke in an old forum thread after he looked at the pictures. It is not the claimed 1915 model K. The K and N are similar to each other and are bigger cars than the model R in this thread. Despite the similar looking radiator, the R doesn't share much of anything with earlier designs. Two dead giveaways: If the car has a sloping windshield and a detachable head it must be a model R. If it has an upright windshield it must be an earlier design (like a K or an N).

I know this isn't what you asked, but in cars where authentic repro covers are available (Legendary?), that is by far the cheapest and best repair. I worked in an upholstery shop when I was in my teens, and I have done quite a lot of repairs. Authentic replacement covers at that time were only available for things like the 65-66 Mustang and the VW Beetle. Certainly nothing Mopar. I would have replaced the whole insert here. Yes, but not because it is 50 years old. Body oils make vinyl hard and that can be a cause, but the main issue here is that when you sew vinyl it makes a perforated line that can tear like one of those "business reply mail" cards they used to put in magazines. On an insert with exposed stitching like that, they made a sandwich with some cloth underneath, foam in between, and the vinyl on top. Unfortunately the cloth underneath (decking? ducking?) may have been something inadequate, and some modern trimmers have been known to use materials that are even worse. There is about a 99.9 percent chance that the cloth underneath has failed along those seams where the vinyl is ripped. When the insert was new, the vinyl and the cloth underneath shared the stretching load approximately equally. When the cloth fails, the stress concentrates where it failed and rips the vinyl along the perforations at the cloth failure. The stress will concentrate right at your repair, too. It's a losing game.

That is a very old picture. As I recall, it was raining when I took it.

I believe it is called "Dum-Dum". I swear I didn't make that up. Strip caulk might work.

The sources for "kits" to rewood most cars have dried up. If your wood is intact enough for patterns, possibly copies can be made. If not, it might still be possible to have wood made. In the absence of any available "kits", the guy making the wood parts is almost certainly going to need the whole car at his location. You didn't mention where you are, but if you are in the US or Canada, your options seem to be better if you are in the eastern part. I would talk to @chistech, @Restorer32, and @Cabnut for a start. Welcome to the forum!