rustyjazz1938

Hi Pat (Studenut1915) Thanks to your guidance, I was able to get the clutch basket off! You're right that it is a very tight fit to get the pin out, but with a bit of fighting and swearing (the best lubricant if you will...) it slipped out. I'm not certain what thickness of leather is in there, but I will definitely take your advice into mind. Also, luckily for me, the u-joint bushings and trunnions for my driveshaft are in great shape, but I'll keep it mind that the u-joint can be replaced with a modern equivalent. Thanks again, Rusty

Hello All, I'm going through and refreshing my engine a bit (cleaning years of crud off of it), and working on fixing the crack in the exhaust manifold that makes me feel extra groovy whenever I drive the car (love un-burned hydrocarbons 😁). As part of the process, since I have the engine out, I figured I'd reline the leather in the clutch. I have no idea of the age of the leather, but it is extremely hard and could use replacing. I'm working on removing the clutch basket, and I've hit a bit of a roadblock, and I am hopeful someone who has done this before can provide guidance to light the way. The cross section in the manual doesn't exactly match the hardware that is on my car, not surprising, but leaves me a bit in a lurch. I see the large nut which holds the bearing against the spring for reaction when the pedal is depressed. When I remove the nut, the race and bearing slide back under force from the spring, then the outer bearing race runs into the tabs for the universal joint, which makes sense from the cross section picture. Where I am a bit stuck is now that the nut is off and the race has released some of the force in the spring, I do not see a way for the basket to come off. I see a pin in a groove through the threaded rod that the nut that held the race threaded onto. There is no clear way that I can see for this pin to be removed: I have tried pull the pin to the side and it hits the spring and it appears fairly hard and inflexible. I don't necessarily want to cut it before getting some feedback, and I'm no entirely certain this would allow the basket to slide off. The other difference from the cross section (the first being the pin) is that my clutch does not have the nuts present that would allow the outer can to come off: I'm not necessarily a big fan of trying this anyways, since it seems to me that the energy of the spring would be released in a less than graceful fashion, and frankly I cannot get a tool in to the other side to remove the bolts. Any thoughts or guidance from the greater community? Thanks for reading, Rusty Berg

Perhaps another parallel to this topic, I recall reading an article in a magazine (perhaps Hemmings Classic Car?) about Ralph Teetor, who was part of Perfect Circle: https://www.automotivehalloffame.org/honoree/ralph-r-teetor/ I recall that his skill at engineering stemmed from the ability to use his other senses such as touch to find flaws in castings. Thanks for reading, Rusty Berg

Hello mbstude, I'll be doing some work on my car in the future, so if you need more info about the float setup, I can get you pictures. As to electric lighting and starting, 1914 was the first year for the four cylinder cars to get the setup. I believe the six cylinder cars went electric in 1913. Also, 1914 was the year that all cars went to left hand drive. Good luck with your cars and happy motoring! Thanks for reading, Rusty Berg

Hello Mbstude, I have a 1914 SC-4 (my engine is much dirtier than yours is though!) which I believe is the next model year of your car. I see many similarities to your motor in mine, other than mine has Wagner starting gear, and Remy ignition gear instead of the Splitdorf magneto setup. I think Bill hit the nail on the head. In my manual for the motor (attached a picture for reference), it says the reservoir normally holds 4 quarts, and the couple of times I have changed the oil, the indicator would float up at around 4 quarts. I put 5 quarts in one change and it reached it's peak. My engine does smoke though with that much oil, but I put it down to the fact that my rings are shot. As long as the indicator shows up, and oil is circulating through the sight glass then things should be okay. I have a devil of a time keeping the indicator from bouncing around and getting stuck. On mine it is nothing more than a piece of wire embedded in a cork and the wire gets stuck underneath the hole it is supposed to come through. you can see it happened in the picture with the circle I uploaded (my apologies again for the filthy motor). If the suction tube from your pump is connected like mine, than I would think the object I circled should be the level indicator (picture with arrow pointing to suction tube and circle around indicator). I can't tell from the angle of your photo, but at the bottom of my indicator tube, there is a threaded pipe plug which can be removed to access the cork (best to do this with the oil drained out of the crankcase). Depending on how old your cork is, it might need a replacement. Mine had the original cork which was coming apart in chunks, so I picked a modern replacement at an arts and crafts store. Good luck and neat car! Thanks for reading, Rusty Berg

@27donb Thanks for the links! I had looked through Bob's site and didn't find those. Guess it helps to know what to look for, or to keep digging until all options are gone! Thanks all, Rusty

Hello All, I am going through and doing some work (king pins, bushings, and new thrust bearings) on the front axle of my 27-27, and I figured that while I was there, I would go through and check and double check all the other parts, since I was already there... nothing like a little bit of project creep eh? 😁 I am impressed with the way the front brake mechanism is designed (universal joint and a CV style adapter). The car has always stopped well, and I would like it to continue to do so. One thing I noticed is, the covers over the components to hold the grease in are really shaggy and need re-doing, see the picture below. Looking in the pictures of a parts book I have for the 114.5" WB cars, this looks to be part number 189680 - Front Brake Universal Joint Yoke Boot Assembly. I don't think these are readily available anywhere, so I thought I would ask the experts if anyone has made these before. They look to be made of a rubberized canvas material, and perhaps also have a grommet for the grease Zerk to come through. A quick search of the internet came up with this for material: https://www.fabricwholesaledirect.com/products/waterproof-outdoor-canvas-fabric?variant=9913481603&gclid=Cj0KCQjwwr32BRD4ARIsAAJNf_2IujNm3EfvoP6OzjbYUyf1b4iRoihz5q94ygsD0hDDhgiCcXGGABsaAuIBEALw_wcB If anyone has better material suggestions, or perhaps some patterns, mine are pretty rough but I can probably make something out of them, I would greatly appreciate it. I have a sewing machine, and I'm not afraid to give it a go. Thanks for reading, Rusty

I'm a bit late to the party as usual, but I also have a 1914 Studebaker (No. 410562) and would be willing to offer any help. I'll send a PM with contact info...

I looked at this car at the show and I believe it is a 1921 Holmes

I am also planning on having a car driving around the nights prior, and on display at Pasteiner's the day of the Dream Cruise. I hope to have my 1922 Oldsmobile Model 47 V8 Touring Car out and about: I have significantly more work to get the Oldsmobile up and running than Mr. Hausmann does with his cars though. You'll notice I'm pointing at something missing from the car... The sharp eyed folks will see it in the background. Luckily it is much closer to being back together again than when this picture was taken... 😁 Nothing like a deadline to help you get the work done!

Yes I can use the timing lever like normal. I believe the 29's still had one. I've been meaning to measure the total advance to see how close it is to spec, too many other projects have gotten in the way.

My apologies the greasiness of the photos, I had a bad rocker arm cover gasket. The car was setup like this when I got it, but I think it was just a drop in... The car has always ran very strong with this setup

I don't have access to a picture right now, but I am fairly certain my 27-27 is running with a 1929 distributor. Makes finding caps and ignition points much much easier and cheaper. When I get a chance I will try to capture a snapshot

Brian, From someone whom is still hanging around the farm for a bit longer (I hope!), my heartfelt congratulations to you. Best of luck on the next adventure, I hope to see you in the Buick somewhere down the road. Rusty

No interest on my side of things (I mean there's interest, but I have way too many projects right now ?), however there looks to be three total cars in the unit (two behind the parts car). At least one looks to be a 1 or 2 cylinder horseless carriage (REO maybe?), and another car with a top up in the way back...

Hi All, I'm the guilty owner of the 27 Standard that ran on the dyno. I say guilty, but then again, I would do it all over again in a heartbeat! ? I've been reader of this forum for a while, but never really posted anything. I've been a fan of Buicks for a while and was lucky enough to acquire this well maintained car a few years back. The car has been a great driver and usually gets a fair amount of attention at shows in the area here as it usually is one of the oldest cars at the show. I have not done any work on the engine internals since I have gotten the car, however, I have switched to a Carter BB-1 carburetor as the Marvel was in really rough shape and performed general maintenance (valve lash, plugs, points, wires, condenser, etc...). I was at the Cars and Coffee and saw the dyno, and thought why not? I spoke with the guys sponsoring it, and they were very excited at the opportunity. The guy running the dyno was great, especially with helping a driver like me who has never run a car on a dyno before. All in all, it was a great experience. As to the power level, I must admit that I was a bit surprised at how low it was, thinking the same thing as Terry and nzcarnerd, knowing that the BHP rating at the flywheel was 63Hp. Even assuming a 30% driveline loss (double the standard rule of thumb of 15%), to factor in thicker oils, and old style gear interfaces, plus tire to road wheel interface, the number should have been around 40Hp. However, when I look at a video of the run that my father took, on a few of the down transients from wide open throttle, the engine puffs a cloud of blue smoke, making me think that the rings might not be in the best of shape. That being said the car still runs great and I don't really plan on looking into this right now as I've got some other projects on my plate. A compression test might be in the future if I can sneak it in, but as the car runs and drives so well right now (great oil pressure, no overheating issues) I'm a bit hesitant to start looking into things. I posted a video edited to the last run (where 29.97 was recorded) to youtube at: https://youtu.be/UBv7lzsSzK0 In hitting approximately 50 miles an hour, my speedometer was showing more around 60, which is why I stopped the run where I did. If I had gotten to 60, I can't imagine how wound out the engine would have sounded, as she was screaming pretty good at least to my ears. Thanks for reading everyone, Respectfully submitted, Rusty

It very much looks like the gauge cluster out of my 14 Studebaker SC-4, however the amp gauge has definitely been replaced with something newer... As you pointed out...

The 1915 Studebakers had a different style of top than the 1914. That's why I think there is a difference in the windshield. The square style with the the points on the top is the more modern style, while the rounded edge is the older style in support of the two man top and the leather straps used to keep it in place when the top is up... The photos I have come from a book called "This is a Studebaker Year, Vol. 5"

As a follow-up, another easy way to tell a 1914 Studebaker versus a 1915 Studebaker (at least the 4 cylinder cars, not sure about the 6 cylinder cars) is that there is a fill neck in the cowl for the gas tank on the 1914 cars. You can see it in the picture of my car...

1915 Studebaker? My 14 has a similar line but the headlights on my car are mounted lower...

I had similar snow to what Stude Light was referring to, plus a few more inches today. I had to shuffle cars around for maintenance. Both started surprisingly well for roughly 15degF temps. (WOOO HEAT WAVE!) The Chevy did really well traction wise, whilst the Buick slid the tires a bit more. Probably something to do with the Buick having a 4.9 to 1 rear axle ratio with skinnier tires.

Hello all, I thought an update was in order as I've had some success with coming up with a possible solution that I can try. After some research, my father and I stumbled on a water pump impeller for a Johnson/Evinrude outboard motor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00027GW30/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Given the price, I figured it couldn't hurt to give this a shot. It's rubber, but the diameter was just about spot on, with the height of the bronze hub also matching the original impeller hub height (from what I could measure). A little bit of shaving on the ends of the fins created the clearance needed to fit in the housing. With a piece of 0.75 inch cold rolled steel on hand, I was able to cut and hack a new shaft together and pin it all together with a roll pin. The first picture is the new shaft and impeller compared to the original. The second is a test fit of the new setup in the housing. The final picture is of a test installation on the engine, confirming that the new shaft engaged with the original drive system. I have some more work to do in getting the crud out of the cooling system, but I think this will be an improvement over what was originally there. Whether it is a permanent solution will be determined as things progress. Many thanks to Greg and everyone who got me down the road of getting my car back up and running again! Thanks for reading, Rusty

All, I'd like to thank you all so much for the help with this. My apologies for being quiet, I've been tackling some other projects, and my day job (always seems to get in the way of the fun stuff!) I do find it interesting that there is difference in the parts numbers. From information that Stude Light shared I expected that the impellers would be the same between the `14 SC-4 and the `15 SD-4, but looking at the picture from Studenut15, it looks like his impeller material is brass whereas I think mine is a form of steel, which might help to explain the discrepancy further. With the drawings and offer from Greg (I will be in touch, sorry again for the delay), I feel confident I'll be able to get the old girl back on the road again! Thanks again everyone! Rusty

Gary and Dave, Thanks for the advice. This isn't my first old car... Just my oldest. I have a friend who has access to a parts book that covers my year, so I think I'll be able to get the number (hopefully). If so, I'll definitely be calling the museum. I tried the HCFI website link, but frankly it's very hard to work with... Not the best of designs... I also just posted in the Buy/Sell forum, perhaps I'll get some feedback there. I'll be sure to update if something happens. I'm determined to get the old girl back on the road again! Respectfully submitted, Rusty

I know it's a bit of a long shot, but as is detailed in my post: 1914 Studebaker SC-4 I am looking to find a replacement water pump for my car, or one I can use as a template. Thanks so much for reading, Rusty P.S. I am located in SE Michigan if there is anyone nearby...