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rustyjazz1938

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Everything posted by rustyjazz1938

  1. Hi @BobinVirginia I don't think I want to risk the needle scaler given how thing the casting is on the one side, that being said the bleach flash rust process might be a nice touch to hide the fix, especially given the rest of the engine condition. It also helps that this butts up against the fire wall of the car, so its visibility will be limited. Hi @Bloo As best as I can tell the pipe is a slip fit into the sleeve. It's a very tight slip fit, and I am assuming it carbons up a bit as a means of providing extra sealing capability like some Diesel engine sli
  2. Hi Scott, I guess I can't use that excuse anymore with the local law enforcement officers when I get zinged. 😃 I have a backup with the king pins just in case... ðŸĪŠ Thanks for reading, Rusty Berg
  3. Hi Jim, You might get a quicker answer posting this in the Buick Pre-war Technical forum. I know there are a bunch of guys there with 1923 Buicks who will be able to answer you question (unfortunately I have a 1927 and can't really help). Good luck, Thanks for reading, Rusty Berg
  4. Hello All, As I've been going through the refresh on my 1914 SC-4, there has always been a bit of a major issue with the engine that has always given me fits since I bought the car: As you can see, besides the impressive amount of crud that was built up on the engine over the years *yuck*, the exhaust manifold flange had crack sometime in the long history of the car. From the looks of it, the crack was very old, I did not have the missing piece, and it looks like it could have been due to a very thin spot in the casting itself, which can be seen in the side
  5. Hello Bomarkham, I'm not certain of the availability of parts for the 1916. On my 1914 the parts for the generator were non-existant (Wagner EM107 if I recall correctly). If you have the original failed parts your best bet would probably be to get them rewound. I have had good luck with: http://www.aerrebuild.com/ Jason redid my generator and did a great job with it. Best of luck, Thanks for reading, Rusty Berg
  6. Hi Pat (Studenut1915) Thanks to your guidance, I was able to get the clutch basket off! You're right that it is a very tight fit to get the pin out, but with a bit of fighting and swearing (the best lubricant if you will...) it slipped out. I'm not certain what thickness of leather is in there, but I will definitely take your advice into mind. Also, luckily for me, the u-joint bushings and trunnions for my driveshaft are in great shape, but I'll keep it mind that the u-joint can be replaced with a modern equivalent. Thanks again, Rusty
  7. Hello All, I'm going through and refreshing my engine a bit (cleaning years of crud off of it), and working on fixing the crack in the exhaust manifold that makes me feel extra groovy whenever I drive the car (love un-burned hydrocarbons 😁). As part of the process, since I have the engine out, I figured I'd reline the leather in the clutch. I have no idea of the age of the leather, but it is extremely hard and could use replacing. I'm working on removing the clutch basket, and I've hit a bit of a roadblock, and I am hopeful someone who has done this before c
  8. Perhaps another parallel to this topic, I recall reading an article in a magazine (perhaps Hemmings Classic Car?) about Ralph Teetor, who was part of Perfect Circle: https://www.automotivehalloffame.org/honoree/ralph-r-teetor/ I recall that his skill at engineering stemmed from the ability to use his other senses such as touch to find flaws in castings. Thanks for reading, Rusty Berg
  9. Hello mbstude, I'll be doing some work on my car in the future, so if you need more info about the float setup, I can get you pictures. As to electric lighting and starting, 1914 was the first year for the four cylinder cars to get the setup. I believe the six cylinder cars went electric in 1913. Also, 1914 was the year that all cars went to left hand drive. Good luck with your cars and happy motoring! Thanks for reading, Rusty Berg
  10. Hello Mbstude, I have a 1914 SC-4 (my engine is much dirtier than yours is though!) which I believe is the next model year of your car. I see many similarities to your motor in mine, other than mine has Wagner starting gear, and Remy ignition gear instead of the Splitdorf magneto setup. I think Bill hit the nail on the head. In my manual for the motor (attached a picture for reference), it says the reservoir normally holds 4 quarts, and the couple of times I have changed the oil, the indicator would float up at around 4 quarts. I put 5 quarts in one change and it reache
  11. @27donb Thanks for the links! I had looked through Bob's site and didn't find those. Guess it helps to know what to look for, or to keep digging until all options are gone! Thanks all, Rusty
  12. Hello All, I am going through and doing some work (king pins, bushings, and new thrust bearings) on the front axle of my 27-27, and I figured that while I was there, I would go through and check and double check all the other parts, since I was already there... nothing like a little bit of project creep eh? 😁 I am impressed with the way the front brake mechanism is designed (universal joint and a CV style adapter). The car has always stopped well, and I would like it to continue to do so. One thing I noticed is, the covers over the components to hold the grease in are r
  13. I'm a bit late to the party as usual, but I also have a 1914 Studebaker (No. 410562) and would be willing to offer any help. I'll send a PM with contact info...
  14. I looked at this car at the show and I believe it is a 1921 Holmes
  15. I am also planning on having a car driving around the nights prior, and on display at Pasteiner's the day of the Dream Cruise. I hope to have my 1922 Oldsmobile Model 47 V8 Touring Car out and about: I have significantly more work to get the Oldsmobile up and running than Mr. Hausmann does with his cars though. You'll notice I'm pointing at something missing from the car... The sharp eyed folks will see it in the background. Luckily it is much closer to being back together again than when this picture was taken... 😁 Nothing like a deadline to help you get t
  16. Yes I can use the timing lever like normal. I believe the 29's still had one. I've been meaning to measure the total advance to see how close it is to spec, too many other projects have gotten in the way.
  17. My apologies the greasiness of the photos, I had a bad rocker arm cover gasket. The car was setup like this when I got it, but I think it was just a drop in... The car has always ran very strong with this setup
  18. I don't have access to a picture right now, but I am fairly certain my 27-27 is running with a 1929 distributor. Makes finding caps and ignition points much much easier and cheaper. When I get a chance I will try to capture a snapshot
  19. Brian, From someone whom is still hanging around the farm for a bit longer (I hope!), my heartfelt congratulations to you. Best of luck on the next adventure, I hope to see you in the Buick somewhere down the road. Rusty
  20. No interest on my side of things (I mean there's interest, but I have way too many projects right now ?), however there looks to be three total cars in the unit (two behind the parts car). At least one looks to be a 1 or 2 cylinder horseless carriage (REO maybe?), and another car with a top up in the way back...
  21. Hi All, I'm the guilty owner of the 27 Standard that ran on the dyno. I say guilty, but then again, I would do it all over again in a heartbeat! ? I've been reader of this forum for a while, but never really posted anything. I've been a fan of Buicks for a while and was lucky enough to acquire this well maintained car a few years back. The car has been a great driver and usually gets a fair amount of attention at shows in the area here as it usually is one of the oldest cars at the show. I have not done any work on the engine internals since I have gotten the car, howev
  22. It very much looks like the gauge cluster out of my 14 Studebaker SC-4, however the amp gauge has definitely been replaced with something newer... As you pointed out...
  23. The 1915 Studebakers had a different style of top than the 1914. That's why I think there is a difference in the windshield. The square style with the the points on the top is the more modern style, while the rounded edge is the older style in support of the two man top and the leather straps used to keep it in place when the top is up... The photos I have come from a book called "This is a Studebaker Year, Vol. 5"
  24. As a follow-up, another easy way to tell a 1914 Studebaker versus a 1915 Studebaker (at least the 4 cylinder cars, not sure about the 6 cylinder cars) is that there is a fill neck in the cowl for the gas tank on the 1914 cars. You can see it in the picture of my car...
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