Ken_P

My least favorite part of a restoration is when you are closing in on some task or milestone, then have to stop and wait, because you either forgot to order a part, or got the wrong part. Right now, I'm at all stop on getting the engine back in my Packard, because I forgot to order a new throwout bearing when I first pulled the engine.

Jim, Thanks! I thought I had notifications turned out for this, but I didn't. I passed your info on to my dad.

That's great news! Glad to hear it turned out like that. Your White is built like a tank!

I would add that usually, people convert to 12V because it's "more reliable" or "starts better". Most reliability problems with a 6V system can be traced to worn components or undersized wiring. With big battery cables, good soldered connections, and a good battery, she'll run just fine on 6V! Nice looking car, and good luck!

My dad just bought a 1965 F250 that's in pretty good shape, except for the front fenders. Looking for both, but especially the driver's side. The vehicle is located in Viola, ID, and I am in Norfolk, VA, so we could do local pickup within several hours of either location, or arrange shipping. Looking at the major vendors, it appears the F250 4x4 uses a large radius fender, and the small radius fender is the only one re-produced. Is that correct? Thanks!

Great work!

Thanks Mal! I actually already have a 1937 Idaho plate on my car, and it is licensed for a year of manufacture plate. I'm looking for a matched set, so I can have a front plate (instead of just an AACA badge on the front!) and it would be really neat if I could find ones marked 2K, since that is the designation for the county I'm from.

Bump to get this back to the top. Thanks!

Roger, thanks for the input. I ultimately elected to just bolt it to the floor on the pre-installed winch mounting plate. If I need to remove it, I have to take off 2 battery cables and undo four bolts - super simple. I didn't want to mess with cutting a hole in the box, but I might go that way in the future.

I thought that’s what whiskey was? If not, I don’t have an excuse!

1937 Packard 120, with LEDs in the dash

Thanks!

Ed, sorry to hear about the recent road blocks. I’m sure you’ll get past them. I wonder if the crack is why the car was parked, again, all those years ago.

I got a scammy sounding email from the same person. Typos, no pictures, etc. I also noticed he only had 3 posts and had only been a member for a few hours. 🤔

Exactly! I'm looking for some specific license plates. 72 hours after I posted here what I was looking for, I got a mis-spelled email, no pictures, just "email this guy and he has the plates you're looking for." I didn't email him, and today I got a more misspelled email with a phone number to call. Uh-huh... Still, thanks to the OP for sharing his experience. Glad he didn't get taken a second time.

SWIFT - Sure wish I'd finished training!

Hey all! Looking for a pair of 1937 Idaho plates, starting with 2K, in restored or restorable condition. Thanks!

I'm not an expert, by any stretch, but I think you'll find that most doesn't interchange. Just looking at the master parts list, not a lot that matches a '37 is also specified for a '41.

That's true for most people Matt - there are a few of us who look for quality. On my Packard, I paid a little more than I thought I could afford, because it appeared to be a mostly original, honest car. Turns out, the "rebuilt" engine was repainted, but shame on me for believing the guy with no receipts.

I'll send you a PM...

While you can't compare sizes, vbeltsupply.com has a ton of vintage sizes, and you can buy by size. The site walks you though how to order everything (what cross-section, etc) and they're cheap. Kudos to Matt Harwood for pointing me to the site.

A common problem I see is that the bolt holes are cupped from overtightening in the past. You should be able to drop the pan, flatten all the holes on the oil pan, then snug them up with a new gasket and stop the leaks. I would think that if you don't want to drop the pan, a fiber or copper washer could also work. (I'm assuming your oil pan is stamped steel, not cast - if it's cast, please disregard everything I just said! )

Totally agree on LEDs on 6v cars- here is my Packard dash before and after. Speedo has an LED in both pictures. The last picture is the map light.

When I was in high school, I drove a 1965 White-Freightliner cabover semi hauling grain for a farmer. It had a 5 speed main transmission, and a 4 speed auxiliary, or brownie. Same pattern as your White, less the reverse. Interesting old truck to drive - cab over, with air “assist” steering that didn’t really assist much. Because it was a cab over, the shift linkage was miles long and it was pretty easy to get stuck in 3rd in the brownie, which made driving in the fields fun! Enough thread hi-jacking - beautiful car, and I love all the learning and discovery!

I am impressed by everything you got done over those three years- and I really enjoyed watching your work unfold on the project. Well done!