Scott Mckenzie

I could roll with this.

Where are you locating the mounts ? After replacing a good section of sheetmetal for the floors,I forgot to note where the seatbelt mounts were in the rear.A picture would be a Godsend. Sorry to hijack your thread Regards. Scott

Thinking I was getting a bargain , I ordered one from OPGI a few years ago. It came flat and non contoured but with holes where required. I was disappointed . I`m not sure that a person requiring the fit and finish of an original would be happy. I repaired the two speaker holes in mine.fixed the warping and recovered it in vinyl from Clarkes. It was a time consuming job but worth it when I was done. Caveat Emptor

http://www.oldbuickparts.com/cart/package-shelf-1963-65-riviera-plain-p-908.html https://www.opgi.com/riviera/BR02173/ Looks alot like the one from opgi

So it`s time to reinstall my doorskins on the`64, It`s been a few years since I removed them. Are there any pitfalls to avoid when i reinstall them ? Hard to get at bolts etc?

Is there any way to show a picture to compare ?

I`m into year eight of my resurrection , I paid a little over $3000 (US) for mine and it was in boxes. The main reason I bought it was the Nailhead and trans. I know the rebuilder personally. All the bodywork and paint was completed by myself My son is a metal fabricator and did the rust repairs. I did not go into this to make money and keep my eye on the bottom line . If you have to farm out the work , the costs will go through the roof. When I saw your photos , I kinda cringed, knowing the amount of hours you have ahead of you. If you love these cars as I do it`s not about making money but I`m not into losing my shirt on my hobby either . Check out the cost of rebuilding a Nailhead and a Super turbine 400 It may shock you. Good luck with your project which ever way you go.

Ok . thats what I thought. I will make a new one myself,after 50+ years plastic can get brittle.

Greetings, I was reassembling my console and I broke the black plastic slider that the shifter goes through. Clarkes discontinued carrying these, I tried CARS as well as the dreaded OPGI . Can anyone steer me towards a supplier ? Thanks in advance

The only other thing is to remove all the corrosion. I use a vinegar soak or molasses immersion https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=molasses+rust+removal It only takes away the rust

If I had to ship out the work I have done to date , I couldnt afford to own my car. So I have decided to take on the upholstery as well, as long as it doesn`t require an industrial sewing machine. I am happy to see that so many have done the same with great results. keep up the good work !

Thanks Bill, I just ordered a set !

Ok I`ve gone through my go to suppliers ( CARS . Clarkes, even the dreaded OPGI ) and I cant find a replacement black leatherette for my consol. Anybody out there have a supplier ? Thanks ,Scott

Check the molding below the window ( its about 1 3/4 wide) it can leak through the mounting studs if the sealer is worn out. The clips to hold the trim around . window rust out and water leaks into the trunk. Silicone will get you on the road but if you can...park under cover

The agc fuse tap is genius. I have used a tapping connector before ..I think to wire in an 8-track ha ha

So , Do I slide a spade connector into the end of the fuse of choice ? There does not appear to be any extra spots available on the fuse block according to the manual.

This is what I`m wanting to do. Are you wiring to the fuse panel ? I have no problem with wiring a push button switch I want to know where to get power.

I need some wiring help for my `64. I want to install an inline fuel pump and know very little about the black art of electrical stuff . Holley calls for the power side to be wired to an ignition source. Can someone help a fella out ,where can I find a source ? This is going to sound basic but I have to start somewhere

The body service manual shows how to do this. I replaced mine last summer using a tube type caulking for setting windshields . The rear molding clips and their screws can be prone to rusting out, causing leaks into the trunk and rear package shelf. KD 2038 removal tool is what I used to remove the chrome molding. there are many out there but this is what the local auto supply had. Good luck .

Would you post a link, I`ve been all over E-Bay with no luck. Thanks ,Scott

Thanks for posting the larger image, the one in the manual is hard to see ( even with my glasses !)

http://www.retrobeltusa.com/product-p/258-xxx-75.htm https://www.seatbeltsplus.com/product/1800-60.html These are a couple of sites I had bookmarked. Hope this helps

With the cost of chrome plating being what it is ,perhaps a good used piece might be better suited.

Take some 18ga sheet ,cut a piece 1/8 x 1 1/8. Bend at 90 degrees in the center. Apply adhesive in the little channel that the tab broke from and your good to go. I use a Methacrylate adhesive- Plexus or Devcon plastic welder. They both adhere well to steel.In a pinch JB weld or Epoxy should work.

I second that ,very nice work . Thank you for taking the time to document your work.