maok

Only if there is a short to ground before the fuse. When setting up a fusing system, the fuse should be as near to the power source (the battery) as possible. Often a fuselink is placed after the battery to protect the whole system. As Ronnie said, the fuse is there to protect the wire not the device.

His name is Glenn Smith. Top bloke too. http://www.vintageandclassicreproductions.com

After a couple set backs, all my doing, its ready to go back in. The head gasket is yet to be torqued down, which I will do when its in the engine bay. Now the big question, to spray or not to spray the head gasket? Pulled out the input shaft on the spare gearbox to align the clutch plate. And my dodgy generator capping. I may even turn the carby around to be able to install an air cleaner.

Photoscape is what I use for photo editing, never used it to stitch pics but has the option. Free and easy to use. http://www.photoscape.org/ps/main/download.php

Now I have story to tell when I race past the corner of Brunswick and McLachlan steets when doing the next Art Deco tour in this old girl.

Have you checked the timing? Is the distributor advancing as rpm increases?

30,000+ posts but knows nothing about Chrysler products....😉

The pistons and rings are JP pistons from Adelaide, however, it's cheaper to buy them via Autospurlus in Melbourne, not direct. They cost about $900au IIRC. I don't know where the machinist got the valves, probably Autospurlus as well.

If you need to help the window rise up, check how hot the supply wire gets. It maybe too small for a 6 volt supply. The 6 volts will raise it but as you have found out much slower than 12 volts. Suitably sized voltage booster, as mentioned above, would be the easiest option. Size (amps) will be based on how much resistance there is for the window to go up. It would be wise to have a circuit breaker or fuse.

Don't over think it. Positive goes to positive and negative goes to negative. In this case, the 'hot' (as you call it) is the negative terminal. The coil connection is as spinney described it. Regarding the DC motor (starter motor), it depends on how it is configured, do some googling.

Almost done now. There is always a hiccup but this one didn't test my character.

This bloke must have been smarter than the Japanese. They have been trying to make one that is saleable for years, I believe they are not too far away. Maybe it's this bloke who was smarter than the Japanese;

On my '28 Chrysler, I use Penrite T250 transoil in both the diff and gearbox. Its very thick, almost honey like.

Haven't got the oil filter yet!!!! Damn VPW. This is how it was in the engine from my car, which makes no sense. No wonder why my oil pressure was always at about 10psi when engine oil was hot.

This the outlet for the oil pressure gauge (without the line) and the oil filter, my car didn't have a filter fitted, so this line has been diverted to the sump inlet. Surely this is not correct, this would relieve the oil pressure in the main gallery?

Roger, no one will believe you that you have acquired at '32 unless you post pics of it. And we do love pics of early Chryslers. If the owners manual is anything like the '28 manual, then yes, it will be very useful. Its more like a repair manual than a user manual like todays cars.

Installed the oil pump today. Packed some Vaseline into it and made sure the slot for the distributor was align correctly at TDC. The slot needs to be parallel to the engine line when #1 piston is at TDC on the firing stroke. This aligns the distributor rotor at about 2pm on the cap which is the #1 spark plug. Looking at the cutaway diagram in the manual, it looks like priming the oil galleries with oil wont be much of an issue. Middle pointer of #19 is the outlet for the oil pressure gauge and oil filter tubes, if I pour oil down here it should reach most of the galleries including the oil pump outlet tube. That's my theory anyway. Also made a dodgy TDC marker.

The new voltage gauge might give you a clue to if they have kept it +ve ground or changed to -ve ground.

Thanks for the advice Herm. My split pins are not quite the same size as the hole but what I did was to make sure the nut was tight against it on the anti clockwise side, ie if the nut tries to loosen , its pressed against the pin. I see you have cut the pins to be short as possible.

I did a test yesterday with an spare rod bolt and nut, the threads started giving way at about 45ftlb. So I have stuck with what I did earlier, 30-35ftlb.

You must have read my mind Herm, that is exactly what I did, black high temp RTV though. I think more RTV is required in this area when I install the sump.

I am having second thoughts on the conrod stud nuts at 30-35ft lb, they are only a 3/8" stud and nut though. Should I go to 40-45ft lb?

Hi Viv, yes that drain channel is definitely free of any blockage. The one that came out of the car was blocked to some degree. Regarding the white metal/babbitt on the cap, I couldn't remember when I pulled the engine apart if there was a swirl like groove in the bearing. Here are both the rear main caps out of this engine (left) and the one that was in the car(right). No swirl groove on either. Now, I don't know if these are correct though. They both have the two drain channels at the rear of the cap for excess oil to go down the oil return of the cap. Below is the poured babbitt. Thanks for the advice on the felt seal. My concern is that some of the felt may get trapped between the mating surfaces of the cap and block and hence cause issue with the clearance. The felt that I have did not come with the gasket kit, I made it from a very dense felt from a haberdashery store. The felt is very difficult to cut to shape. Where as the cork is easily shaped.

Thanks for the diagram. If I am seeing the diagram correctly, it looks like the felts above are in the vertical position on the cap where as in my '28 its on the horizontal position. What it does tell me, is that the felt needs to be packed in well. However, I am leaning towards the use of cork.

Of course they do, jump out of gum trees.