22touring

"He is going with an acme thread for long service life" But the critical point is, how slight a pitch can you make with an acme thread? It's got to be a really small pitch or you will lose a lot of pulling force. As Spinneyhill stated, pullers with a fine-thread bolt exert a lot more pulling force than those with coarse-thread bolts. If the pitch of your acme thread is too steep, (steeper than a coarse-thread bolt, as are all the acme threads I have ever seen), it will be a lousy puller. And an acme thread has a lot more inherent friction than an SAE thread due to its greater contact area, and more friction is just what you don't need. Has your machinist ever made a hub puller before? You don't need long service life because you are only going to be using the puller a few times. There is a reason why pullers use SAE fine threads.

David, I think it is the same as the earlier cars, which is 2 - 7/16" X 16 TPI. Would someone please correct me if I am wrong. Here is a guy who makes a really beautiful hub puller for our cars: http://customhubpullers.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/custom-hub-puller-instructions.pdf

27dodger0 wrote: "...they look sharp" Aha, the great DB philosophical question: is trying to make a deliberately conservative, understated car like the DB "sharp" like putting 20-inch rims on a Prius? This guy tried to make his DB sharp, too:

Of course the felloes are a different matter, but I am going to jump in here, even though nobody asked, and say they should be postal blue. In fact the whole danged wheel is supposed to be painted postal blue(?) I could be wrong, though. That's the color they are supposed to be on my '22 touring. Did DB start painting the felloes black at some point? I think the wood spokes were always painted postal. Would somebody please correct me if I am wrong? Thank you.

Hi, John, and welcome to the forum. I can't help you find any rear fenders for your roadster, but FWIW I thought I'd tell you that you want the "short rear end" fenders for your 1918 model. On July 12, 1919, with roadster no. 359301, DB went to a rear fender that was longer in the rear than the earlier ones had been. I'm not sure if the later rear fenders would bolt onto your car OK or not.

Nearchoc wrote: "looks like the interior was redone at some point, most likely in vinyl but should have button tufted for sure." Nope, the original upholstery on a '20 model would have been pleated, not tufted. DB switched from the tufted to the pleated seats in 1918. Also, you mean "affect", not "effect". And why do you say the upholstery is vinyl? It's obviously leather, and looks just like the original upholstery on my '22 touring when I bought it from a museum. So I say the upholstery may well be original. I am not sure about the top, so I won't comment on that.

The source for my foregoing statement that cathedral windows were abandoned in May of 1921 is the handwritten production notes of Frederick Haynes, John Dodge's production assistant at the time, from the Chrysler Historical Collection. Edit: Oops, I goofed! It would have been rather difficult for Haynes to have been John Dodge's production assistant in 1921, wouldn't it, since John died in 1920! I believe Haynes was promoted to factory superintendent after the brothers' deaths.

DB went to the rectangular rear window on touring cars and roadsters in May of 1921, keiser31: May 13 for the touring and May 17 for the roadster. MWilson, those top rests might be somewhat difficult to locate because (1) they tend to be rare because they were optional extras, so not all cars had them; and (2) the touring car's top design changed about 6 times between the beginning of production in 1914 and the time your car was built, and when the top design changed the top rest design changed, too. You've got to have exactly the right top rests or else the top either won't enter the top rest at all, or it won't sit correctly therein. If you'd give me the serial number of your car, I'll give you the parts numbers for the right and left top rests that you need. This information appears at page 334 of the DB Master Parts List book.

"Nearchoc. If you think I have given bad information then have the balls to say what you mean." Yeah, Nearchoc, I was wondering about that, too. Why don't you specify what part of the foregoing information was "bad"?

If you don't want your body to fall apart when you get older, you need to eat a really healthy diet, stay slim and do a lot of aerobic exercise.

"Everybody is entitled to his own opinion, but not to his own facts." - Daniel Patrick Moynihan The plain fact of the matter is that in a straight-cut gear, non-synchro transmission you need the thickest gear oil you can get in order to help prevent grinding when shifting into gear at a stop, and when shifting between gears. Other opinions to the contrary notwithstanding, this means you should use LUB164 because it is the thickest.

LUB164 is what you want: https://www.restorationstuff.com/ecommerce/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1089

I am in the process of pulling everything off the body off my '22 touring. I need to strip its top painted surfaces, and sandblast the bottom of it, before preparing for paint. Can the body tub be mounted in a rotisserie, or does it have enough strength for that? If so, how would you advise mounting it in the rotisserie (I have a standard type, made by Direct Lift), and do I need to install braces in the door openings? If you can't mount it in a rotisserie, how would you advise tipping it from side to side in order to paint everything? Thanks, guys.

Why isn't anyone using punctuation between sentences? I refuse to read illiterate, ungrammatical crap. Learn to write! The most knowledgeable people on here refuse to tolerate dummies who can't write, and therefore won't answer your question.

Hubs and felloes powder coated (I never did like the way ordinary paint on felloes gets scratched when you change the rim and tire.) Done by Calimer's wheel shop of Waynesboro, PA. I got to paint the spokes myself.

I had the wood spoke wheels on my '22 DB restored by Calimer's wheel shop of Waynesboro, PA. If I understand it correctly, Mr. Calimer has made mandrels to accurately cut the different DB wood spokes. So if I were you (since you have gone to all the trouble of disassembling the wheels and having the felloes and hubs powder-coated), I would see if perhaps Mr. Calimer could cut replacement spokes for you at a reasonable price to replace the cracked or split ones, because they may give you problems in the future if you don't replace them. I believe Mr. Calimer has you send him one of your spokes so he can determine which mandrel to use.

I will give you my opinions, although I am sure some would disagree with me. First, since it sounds like you have already disassembled the wheels and the spokes are all in good shape (you are lucky!), consider the benefit of painting them if they were originally painted. Of course I place a pretty high value on originality. I'll bet that the longer you own your car, the more serious you will become about originality, and if you've already oiled or varnished the wheels, it's too late to paint them at that point. Assuming you really don't want to paint the spokes, then varnish always cracks and falls off, IMHO. Nor do I believe that wood spoke wheels came varnished from the DB factory. Oiling them is better, but you don't want to use linseed oil because it will darken the spokes greatly. Find the special clear and non-darkening wood oil that is available from furniture finishing supply companies.

Do you think this is the early box? The only title on the page is "Steering Gear". The following two pages show pictures of the DB box and the Gemmer box, which makes me think that this is probably the early one.

I'm not sure about this, but doesn't the Master Parts List, 9th edition, have a diagram of the nut and sector type steering box at page 317? Let me know if I'm wrong about this, or if you would like me to scan and post the picture.

"From November 14, 1914 (when the DB entered production) until September 18, 1915 the DB used an irreversible nut and sector type steering gear. This was now replaced by a worm and wheel type." Don Butler, "Good Enough Is Not Acceptable", Cars and Parts magazine. April, 1979, page 50. The worm and wheel type is commonly known as "the DB steering box", and continued to be installed until car no. A699956 in late June of 1926, when DB began installing the Gemmer box. So I am thinking maybe the original poster has the early steering gear that was used between November 1914 and September 1915.

These parts entered production on January 5, 1919 with car no. 303152 for left-hand drive cars and 306302 for right-hand drive cars.

"where there are 2 cars and only one radiator how does that help?" By finding the car's serial number the OP can determine which radiator it should have. The Master Parts List gives the part numbers for the high and low radiators, which should be stamped into the unit.

I suggest that you consult the Master Parts List, which has good pictures at pp. 176-179. It says that DB went to the higher radiator starting at car no. 705679 for sedans and 724588 for other bodies.

Thanks a lot, Ron. You sound like you really know a lot about these cars. However, I think I'm going to plug the hole in the throttle area because leaving it open would cause a big intake vacuum leak. I will check the brass seats in the vacuum tank ASAP! Thanks for the tip.

OK, now I remember what I meant to ask you guys. The problem I am having with the vacuum tank is that fuel is entering the vacuum line, running down into the throttle area and flooding the engine. What do you think of the idea of removing the vacuum line between the vacuum tank and the throttle area, plugging the holes it was connected to, putting a little gas in the vacuum tank and then using the vacuum tank as my "temporary tank" in order to move the vehicle? That should work, shouldn't it?