NewOldWood

Doesn't that show front and rear camshaft bushings? Part numbers 158 & 9.

I've heard stories of people doing this with lots of friends and free beer. Sometimes it even works...i've heard. I usually do it like this.

I'm entering the login info manually both times, Not an autofill problem. Windows for me too. I don't remember exactly when the problem started but was a couple months ago.

I get to the forum viewing as a guest, not logged in. I click on the Sign In buttton and the sign in page comes up. I enter my name/password and not every time, but more often than not I get another log in page with a message saying there has been a problem and I need to reenter my info. It always works the second time and I get into the forum. Next time I see the second page I will pay more attention to exactly what it says. As far as logging in, I always start from the same place and do the same thing. Sometimes I get logged in on the first try, but more often I get the second log in page.

Am I the only one that has to go through two sign in pages to get into the site? Is the email login change going to fix this?

Is Jag-u-wahr a product of the same gramatical logic that produced Al-u-minium?

When I was young I worked with a guy in his early 70s who had been a woodworker all his life, very talented and still very alert. One day he left the end of one of his fingers on the tablesaw. Later I asked him what happened and his response still runs through my head very often when I'm using a saw, " I just was not paying attention". He added that if you worked around these kind of tools long enough something like that was probably going to happen. I am not quite ready to hang it up just yet and doing my best to prove him wrong on that point.

Wood sills from similar year cars are all going to look somewhat alike. The first pictures I posted are from a packard and very close to some shown in the video. These are from a 41 Cadillac.

Those big bandsaws are nice, the big table and extra throat depth make working on parts with a lot of shape much easier. While the big saw is certainly more imposing than the small one, the small one will take your finger off just as fast. The sander will be a good addition too, and although not as dangerous as a saw, I did once see a guy sand one of his fingers most of the way back to the first knuckle on a 20" disc sander!

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mr-Heater-MHU50-Big-Maxx-Natural-Gas-Unit-Heater-50000-BTU-with-Propane-Conversion-Kit/37902470?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=1187 My shop in Wisconsin was 1500 sq/ft with a 9' ceiling, I heated it primarily with a wood stove but had one of these for when I would be gone for a time. Even in the dead of winter it would heat the shop to 70 degrees. Not sure what it would have cost to use it as a primary heat source as I never did. I'm in S Alabama now, my shop is about 3000 sq/ft with 10-12 ft ceilings and I have two of these same heaters in here. Possibly overkill but it was 32 degrees outside this morning and 72 in the shop. The ones I have now I bought factory reconditioned for about $400 each. Natural gas but come with propane orifices.

That was my first thought, think that trailer's got brakes?

Still sanding.......Anyone want to learn how to build wood boats? I could make good use of an apprentice right about now!!

The other advantage to a hypoid gear is added strength, the farther you offset the pinion the stronger it gets. This is where the 9 inch Ford gets it's strength. The down side is an increase in internal friction, a reduction in efficiency, which was the downfall of the 9" and why they quit making it.

A machine doesn't have a goal, but it doesn't have a conscience either. I have been doing custom woodwork professionally for over 35 years and have seen more than a few fingers removed or otherwise ground up, and eveytime it was due to temporary inattention. A woodcutting saw will take your finger off so fast it will be done before you even know it's happening, there is no time to react. I still have all ten of mine, my mantra is "if you can't touch the blade it cant cut you", and the instances where you have no choice but to put your digits close to a moving blade are exceedingly rare. On the other hand, one of the reasons I have no employees is because OSHA would have a field day in my shop, I don't have guards on anything. In my opinion anything that obstructs your view of the blade is a hazzard. The real safety is between your ears and if you don't have that one their has never been a guard made that will save you.

Sanding a boat bottom. I filled the screw holes yesterday and the epoxy will be much harder to sand tomorrow. Not my favorite way to spend a Sunday, cold wet and windy outside today anyway...........I haven't done a boat in quite a while, forgot how much fun this is. Might stick to cars after this!!

Those videos are running fast, they are not running those boards through that band saw as fast as it looks. And as far as I am concerned, OSHA is the nightmare. I have had too many encounters with OSHA inspectors to believe that their existance has anything at all to do with my safety. Restorations have their limits, obviously no one restoring a Packard today is going to be able to reproduce the original manufacturing process. There are cases where even if you could build a wood part exactly as it was done originally you would not be able to use it. This is a rear door from a Ford panel van. Originally the wood frame was completely assembled and then the sheet metal pieces were assembled over the wood frame. Removing the old wood intact without destroying the sheet metal was not possible so I had to find a way to assemble the wood pieces inside the sheet metal. Not exactly original, but the best I could do.

Interesting video. Some of those parts look familiar....

I have very little exposure to cars of this era so have very little to add, but find this to be very interesting. Taking the stats listed here at face value and making an assumption or two, a couple questions/observations come to mind. The geometry of the engine and metalurgy of the day are obviousy going to limit engine speed, but some quick math says that to make 170 horsepower at 1200rpm is roughly 750ft/lb of torque, and at 1500rpm (could this thing turn that fast?) it would be making 600ft/lb. What did the transmission and differential look like to be able to transmit that much torque? Must have been quite substantial. A single overhead cam 16 valve T-head engine, obviously (?) a rocker arm setup? I'd love to get a look at that. Seems to me that draging a car like this down from 80mph with nothing but rear brakes would require......patience.....among other things? Just a little noise from the peanut gallery. Really enjoying this thread!!

It's a combination of glue and fit that seals the bottom, and yes, all wood surfaces are coated with glue. In this case I am using 3M 5200 as the adhesive but I have used epoxy in the past. I have also added a layer of fiberglass from the waterline down on other boats but will not be doing that on this one. Modern adhesives obviously were not available throughout most of the wood boat era. Most but not all boats were built with double planked bottoms, The common practice was to put a layer of canvas between the two layers and soak it in a bedding compound. The bedding would wash out in time and I have read that the manufacturers recommended that the outer layer of planking be removed and the canvas rebedded every other year. I have never heard of anyone actually doing this. Boats back then did not come with trailers. The practice was to put the boat in the water at the beginning of the season and leave it there. At launch they would tend to leak pretty badly and would need to be allowed to "soak up" before they would hold water well enough to be useable. My father had an old Chris Craft when I was born, rather than pay to leave it in the slings he would start it up, take it somewhere convenient and beach it. It couldn't completely sink but would be low enough for the bottom to stay wet and swell up. After a while he would pump it out and he was good for the summer. When this boat is done it wont need to be treated any differently than a fiberglass boat. Back in the 30s varnish was a twice a season chore. This will get sprayed with an automotive clear which is really about as durable as a gelcoat finish. Kind of the best of both worlds, the look and ride quality of a wood boat without all the trouble and maintenance of the original boats.

The first layer is on, it's about 3/16" thick and runs roughly 45 degrees from the keel. The second layer is about 1/2" think and parallels the keel. Everything is glued and screwed together, it will be a completely water tight bottom.

McMaster has this, it's listed as an NLGI 3 grease. https://www.mcmaster.com/10195K623/ From the description, "Tackier than gear box grease, this grease sticks to open gears and roller chain. It resists moisture for corrosion protection and can lubricate under heavy loads."

I have been building Teak Corvette steering wheels for a restorer up in Ilinois for about 30 years now. He told me the other day he has more orders right now than he's ever had at one time before. People are looking for safe places to put their money.

You should have two 5/16" holes on either end of that piece. Their is a steel angle, 1-1/2"x 4" or so that is attached to the quarter panel that those bolt through. If you can look close enough in this picture you might be able to see it.

I should add that I started using automotive clear on wood car bodies almost 15 years ago. Back then nobody was recommending it. The first ones I did are still holding up just fine.

Pure Tung oil would be my last choice. The proper application of it is very time consuming, it has a relatively poor abrasion resistance and no UV protection. Better for indoor use, and not many people even use it for that anymore. What are called Tung oil finishes are more similar to interior varnishes but still a poor choice. Most varnishes are Tung oil based, with the addition of resins to increase durability, and drying agents. Spar varnishes include UV filters. Like gasoline, every brand has their own specific recipe. I think I have used probably every name brand out there and while their are minor differences in the way they apply, dry, etc, the end result is pretty good with all of them. Varnishes will all add a slight amber tone to the wood. This wouldn't be a bad choice. The hardwood floor finish you mentioned is going to be a urethane based finish, although probably a one part finish and likely not recommended for exterior use. Automotive clears are two part finishes and (obviously) are designed for exterior use. They generally have very good UV filtering qualities and compared to varnishes are much more durable. Read the fine print on your stain, some recommend against use under two part urethanes. Whatever you use let it dry thoroughly before spraying the clear. I have used various stains under clear before and haven't had a problem yet.