NewOldWood

I have used steel woll to dull a finish in the past and have been pretty happy with the results. Make sure the varnish is thoroughly dry before you do it though.

Kind of like a christmas tree, just put the bad spot into the corner where it can't be seen and it works just fine!! Someone changed the head on this engine and left that piston in it?

Cool truck! I like it better without the visor.

The planking is all installed and plugged, now the fun starts. I'm offering free lessons on the finer points of block sanding a wood boat hull. The opportunity of a lifetime, and at absolutely NO Charge!!! Dont let this one slip by!!!

A little late but..I have used a 3/4" wide anti friction tape I got at Mcmaster. Stick it on the bows just like masking tape and put the slats over it.

Does it look like it might have been installed at one time and removed by someone?

Hercules has built well over 100 of these cars and this is the first time I've seen this problem. They are still in business, Cecil is a good guy, you should get in touch with him.

Thanks, I'll put that on my list.

Any official N.W.C. presence at the show? I've never been there, thinking about making the drive, anyone else going?

No, they bend pretty easily. There isn't anything on this boat that gets steamed.

Hershey has been on my to do list for too many years. I'm overdue for a little break in the routine, so thinking seriously about a road trip. What the event looks to be is a three day swap meet and a one day car show. I'm not shopping for anything in particular but I'm sure that I can entertain myself at the swap meet for at least one day. But, is there anything else happening? I definately want to be there for the show, but if I spend the day Tuesday at the swap meet and see everything I want to see, what am I going to do till Friday? I quess I would probably rather show up early and have a little time to kill than show up later and wish I had more time to look around.

You're on a roll! What are you going to fix next?

Yes. With the exception of Ford, which used Hard Maple, every other car body I've seen has been Ash.

This might be a little diffferent than some of the electrical buggery shown so far, and admittedly a type of repair that many just are not equipped to pull off properly, but in my world this is difficult to forgive. And what it should have looked like. I have seen quite a bit worse, this is just one that I have a picture of.

A stock engine should have pretty good vacuum, I would think anything under 20 or so would be too low.

Check idle vacuum with a gauge. I've had vacuum leaks in the intake gasket leaking into the lifter valley. At an idle it had almost a dead miss, but as soon as you opened the throttle it would run fine.

The sides are planked. A little rough looking at the moment, I have been plugging the screw holes as I go using scrap from fitting a plank to cut the plugs for that plank. In order to fit the next plank I have to sand the top row of plugs, the top of the planks having been sanded but not the bottom gives it an odd appearance. I have to go back and modify the engine hatch hinges now, and deck planking after that.

Finishing the planking on the sides of the Gar Wood. Anyone want to learn how to block sand a wood boat hull? I'm offering free lessons!!!

I'm going to second Mikes advice about going slow. A slow spindle speed will allow a slow feed rate without burning the wood. Also, your mild steel arbor isn't going to be as rigid as a hardened one would, so pushing the feed too much will cause a lot of chatter. In my experience the saw blades don't give as nice a finish as milling cutters. I would also recommend going to Mcmaster or someplace like that for your spacers. They have almost any size you could want, and it will avoid the stacked error you are going to get with lathe made spacers. Work holding is going to be a different set up for every piece, a whatever it takes type of thing. Here are a couple pictures of one of the many parts I have cut on my mill. I do a lot of work using a vise too, but not for this piece.

I had these finger joint cutters made about 20 years ago, don't remember who made them or exactly what they cost but they were expensive. Still using them today. I made a sled type jig for my shaper that I use to hold and feed the wood. Nice to be able to cut multiple fingers at one setting. The second picture are cutters that I use in my mill. The biggest one is a 8" x 3/16". the middle sized one is 6x5/16", the smallest is a homemade arbor with a 4-1/4" saw blade on it. The smaller one works well but I wouldn't use soft steel on anything bigger than that, the two bigger ones are hardened ground arbors.

I think if "Willis" is the way they wanted it pronounced, that's the way they should have spelled it.

There is a noticable difference between a Baldor grinder and a cheap one, and for the (rather large)difference in price there should be. I have both and even on the Baldor I have to occasionally take the wheel off and true it up. I think it's a Norton wheel. I put the wheel on an arbor in my milling machine and use a diamond dresser, works very well. I've tried doing it on the grinder but never had any luck that way

Mcmastercarr.com. Part number 97820A666 $9.00 per pack of 1 lb. In stock 97820A666 Packs of 1 lb. New Add-In Version Streamline your design process with our Solidworks Add-In. Available for Solidworks 2017 or newer. MaterialSteel Length1/2" Nail Gauge18 ga. Shank Diameter0.05" Head Diameter1/8" Head TypeFlat Shank TypeSmooth For Use OnHard Wood, Plywood, Soft Wood RoHSNot Compliant REACHNot Compliant DFARSSpecialty Metals COTS-Exempt Country of OriginPeoples Republic of China Schedule B731700.9000 ECCNEAR99 A small, flat head makes these nails easier to drive flush to the surface than standard finishing nails.

The original paint in this boat was green, badly weathered and faded but obviously the original paint. This is a currently available color that is my best guess at what the original green would have looked like.

I have seen both the tacks and the string. I think you are correct about the string. I would guess that the tacks were used to hold the weatherstrip in place while whatever glue they used set up. I have used Steeles peel n stick rubber before and had good luck with it. I don't know that there was any kind of standard or rule about the application of weatherstriping on woodies. Probably depended on the make, model, and who was installing it. I have seen it run over the hinges and have seen it cut around them, depending on the application, one will work better than the other. Sealing around all the hardware on any woodie I have seen is a take what you can get kind of thing. Would be nice to be able to seal one up like a new car but I haven't seen it happen yet.