hook

Paul, check out just in front of the front wheel. It is sitting on full elliptic springs in the front anyway. They look pretty flattened out, maybe leaves removed. Bill

Speaking of F88

i have seen this on several cars. I don't know if it was ever a production or accessory item, but it works. You just have to make it look like it belongs there.

Speaking of safety. If you use an electric fuel pump on any vehicle, modern or antique, please, please for your own safety and others include an inertia switch. This will shut down the pump after an impact and prevent fuel from being shot everywhere. I will now get down from my soapbox.

I said try an electric fuel pump, not replace the system with one. After proving the tank and line are good, you can use an electric pump to prove the mechanical isn't working.

I think a bad pump. Sometimes a rebuild job only includes the diaphragm, valves and springs. No linkage replacement or pins. Also, maybe they dressed the arm that rides against the cam. If the tank fuel line proves OK, definitely try an electric pump.

After a closer look, you may be right.

The one on the left I believe is a Symington Wayne pump

Here's the basic oil chart to give the basic years for the API letters.

Youtube has a very good instructional video on how to set up and use the Hoppy aimer,

I had a similar problem with a later Pontiac rod. The rod bolt was just slightly turned and I didn't notice it. It torqued up just fine. But very soon after it started, it developed a rod knock. I never let that happen to me again...never! Be careful, even pros slip up.

Yes, and a 153 deluxe model as well. However it has a 151/152 dash. What's with that? Also missing the outer parts of the the demountable wood wheels. Definitely an interesting specimen.

So, I guess you couldn't get a 1954 Covette through inspection.

Does anyone know the ohm range of a Franklin 130 electric fuel gauge or sending unit?

Did somebody say grey?

I think you need to do a little more research on a Cord's front joints than a click, click in a parade. The Cord automobile was the first front wheel drive to use constant velocity joints. In fact, they looked similar to the outboard joints on the Oldsmobile Toronado and all other cars that have front wheel drive today. They have some real good exhibits of such at the Aubern, Cord, Duesenberg Museum in Indiana.

Unless the car has pipe thread spark plugs, all cars have metric threads. SPARK PLUGS haha

Them maybe you should have asked that question instead of application.

Crank hole covers, cover the hole in the grille that the crank goes in.

A possibility is your torque converter is draining down some back into your transmission and it takes a little time for the pump to replace it. When it does everything functions. You need to see a transmission shop.

The Indian brand shellac gasket sealer still has it's place, but don't use it anywhere that might be in contact with today's gasoline. Alcohol dissolves shellac!

Why not just use a sintered bronze gearbox vent. They come in all kind of sizes and shapes. They're relatively in-expensive and there is no critter problem. You can find them in McMaster Carr, Amazon, and eBay just to mention a few places.

If you're going to drive in the rain, your enjoyment would be better with electric wipers. www.snydersantiqueauto.com has several models of electric in 6 and 12 volts with or without integral switch. They even have the model like the one in the first photo of "Vintageben"

OOPs, I made a mistake. The Marmalite does not have 4 mounting bolts only two like the Treslite. Sorry.