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One thought after reading through this is eliminate any possible vacuum leaks. Block or plug any ports that feed systems like a power brake vacuum tank if it is a power brake car, get to the point of carburetor and engine on the vacuum side. Break out a straight edge and check everything that has a flat surface. Remember that gaskets will seal but you need a flat surface or close to it. One other tool I use is an infrared temp gun then you can see what cylinder is cold or colder that any others. Once you have this information you can start narrowing down your search. I also use a plastic set of pliers then I can pull spark plug wires and listen for a change in the engine. Good luck Steve

Thought I would post a few pictures showing progress, I did the primer a few months back just getting to the pictures. I should have started with a rust free car. I have struggled with the formula for correct white getting close now. Few pictures from start to now getting close to installing body. Steve

Looking good another soft top will be saved. I like all the added cross bracing you will be glad you added them. I know how much these bodys can and do move removed from the frame. You should add this to me and my Buick I would love to watch the progress. Steve

OK tried a few things in youtube hope it works now I did not save the changes Steve https://youtu.be/QnNJ2m0BB2s

I hope I have added the video correctly today. I test drove my chassis around the house earlier this summer. I ran out of gas just as it ran up to my garage on this run. After purchasing this car in a pile of parts many of them MIA it was a good to have the project this far along. Power brakes worked well, steering worked like I thought it should few small items to clamp in place; then sort out the vacuum for the auto choke. I will then be ready to bolt on the body and see if anything still fits. Steve https://youtu.be/QnNJ2m0BB2s

I just had a problem on a 53 RM power windows that worked one day and not the next. In my case, key on then depress the switch. You could hear the circuit breaker trip and the amp gauge drop just before it tripped. Yes it is hydraulic windows but some of the troubleshooting will be the same. I started with the wiring diagram; it looks like the breaker is in the glove box area on a 53. I never did locate it. I glanced at hometown Buick and it looks like the 55RM is located in a similar location. My short to ground was at the relay for the hydraulic pump. The previous owner installed the trip wire too close to the motor body edge and it rubbed through Everyone is spot on with the troubleshooting. One item I would check is the circuit breaker; it is a bimetal circuit breaker. I have seen these fail from corrosion and age. The heat from the engine or heater could be tripping this if it is bad. If you have a fuse buddy, use an alligator clip on each side and jump around the breaker, be sure to have a fuse or breaker in your jumper to avoid any damage to the wiring. Then give it a test and see if it works when you drive the car and it is warm Another thought is key on and operate the windows open the doors and give them a try basically you are moving the wires in a high wear area to help find a short. The power seat is another area if you have one, could be a wire pinched after going down the road. If you leave the key on for troubleshooting very long you might pull the power wire for ignition to prevent damage to points or your electronic igniter. One last item I use is a headlight wired up with alligator clips as a test tool, I use this to test wiring to see if it can carry amps to operate circuits. I have found voltage and little to no amps cause problems like this. Steve Let us know what you find

Brian From what I have figured out 53 had the vacuum pump added as a product improvement late production could have had them installed at the factory I am unsure on this. Here is what I know from my research for those that wonder about this system. Product service bulletin talks about a kit that will maintain vacuum for the power brake system when the engine RPM is below 250 normal idle is 450. The generator output or lack of is what trips the relay then the vacuum pump runs and you have vacuum for power brakes. I am not sure if a campaign in 53 was in force or if this was just an option for the public. I have two early 53 Buicks with PB and no vacuum pump. I have parted out one 54 and it had the pump. I am not sure if all PB cars had this pump in 54. The pumps are not designed to run very long from what little I know. One thought is generator fails and you drive home the pump will be running wonder how many failed doing this. I have my 53 Chassis up and running and the brake system has been overhauled and works great. The one item that is needed is vacuum the pedal is very hard to press without vacuum. I plan on having the pump installed and operational on this car. I am curious about the history of this system, sure I have missed many items. Vacuum canister sounds pretty simple compared to the pump system. I am sure Al and others have more information than I do Steve

I have the Chevrolet transmission repaired and installed. Test drove it Saturday on a 60 mile trip working great. Back to my Buick projects The 53 RM coolant hose routing is pictured for the transmission it runs though a cutout in the frame and then lays on the push rod for the power brakes. I added pictures how I ran the hoses on my convertible chassis. It looks much cleaner going through the cutout in the frame, I would think having the hoses on the brake push rod is an issue. If anyone has a few pictures or how the hoses should lay out let me know. I have added pictures of the starter splash shield form the RM. I have one for the convertible after hunting for it not easy to locate. It is hard for me to image this is still on the car after all these years. I have not seen many with this still in place. I have owned some oil leaking cars in the day but this one might be the winner oil runs out of the P/S pump and the left valve cover has oil pouring out of it. Easy enough to repair I hope. Steve

The battery hold down is sorted out just need to change the wing nuts shorten and paint the hold down bolts. I added the heat tube and cover for the choke, I have very little vacuum at the tube so back in the carburetor I go. Someday I will install the correct oil fill breather when I address the details, I did add the clamps that hold the lines together along the valve cover. I also had another Buick follow me home, once I check it out I hope to use it for a daily driver this summer. First up is fix oil leaks it does leave its mark. Another project I am trying to wrap up is the transmission failed in my chevy the 3 speed had the idler shaft drop down and crunch and grind. Parts here next week hope it is running by next weekend. I also started painting my Project Buick, firewall now has color once the space allows I hope to add the red primer to the bottom and install the body. Here are few pictures I know I like to see what other folks are doing. My son is up front in the the Chevrolet grandmother is keeping tabs on the kids, we went for a drive in fact we added sugar before they went home good times. The Buick convertible will have room for more grand kids. Happy fathers day to all Steve

Here is a picture for everyone this ties the door post directly over the body mount. Some kind of support is needed with the door open the lower door post will most likely flex. I tried to find a used part and struck out, found a few low rust floors and this part had too much rust. I used the top half that was not rusted and traced out the shape and used multiple pieces and welded it together. Plenty of angles in this part. A fab shop should be able to help, you have great examples. Steve

Look for a parts car with a floor that is in decent shape they still can be found. You can fabricate the parts needed but the rockers are most likely rotted also. Big project but it can be done. I put a floor in my RM with a parts car donating and helping with reference on placement. When they are this rusted references is a big help. This is a body X member it runs to the rockers, hard to fab plenty of angels. I located a 4 door car used supports and most of the floor out of it. I still needed to patch a few spots in the floor but the X members fit after repairing a few spots. What I did is install the floor with the body bolted to the frame with body mounts and doors installed. Support is the key, I built pipes with nuts in the end left and right hand treads drilled a few holes in the pipe so I could use a bar for adjustment, then added bolts with a mount on the end. This way you can keep things from moving and adjust it if needed so the doors fit. In my case the floor looked like yours and the doors would not fit, i adjusted the door gap with my supports. Keep checking depending on how you weld it it can move the body around, slow and low heat is best. If you use a floor out of a parts car that is decent look at the firewall for rot. I used the factory seam on the floor to fire wall then repaired rust. If I could do it over again I would have used the complete firewall and cut it at the windshield post. Good luck Steve

Rusty heaps Thanks for finding my next projects little TLC and they will be road ready. I love soft tops and hate to see them waste away. JBP thanks for the photo it helps, when you bring a car home that is in boxes it is a slow process pictures confirm I am on track Steve

Working on the battery cover and hold down. My parts book is lacking in this area, I believe the hold down bolt slips in a notch in the bottom battery tray. Then the hold down keeps the battery in place it has 4 cushions then you use a wing nut with a flat washer. I have a grommet that goes in the hold down I think but the grommet is larger than the factory hole. I have also seen a few pictures of a strap from the inner fender that attach at the hold down bolt is this one or a strap to each hold down. If anyone has a picture or two showing how this should be assembled it would be a great help. Thanks in advance Steve

Glad it all is working out thanks for the added pictures. The mounts that hold the unit to the inner fender are available. I purchased mine from CARS part# is PM534. Steve

Chassis in this picture is ready for a test drive. My driveway is long enough to test operation and even leave black marks in the road. It is nice not having to push this around when it needs moved. Power brakes work as they should few leaks on the SS lines for DF they have been corrected. Once the weather changes paint the body under side and install on the chassis. Who knows this might be completed if I keep at it and the CFO Does not have too many things on her list for me to do. Steve

Promised pictures My computer has been retired and working on a Mac now bit of a learning curve. I have other pictures just need to locate them. These units are not that complex, save all the parts in some kind of small parts container with dividers as you take it apart look for witness marks and take pictures you can put a few parts in backwards. It will have small springs and I recall a ball bearing, I dropped mine and it was where is Waldo hour. I just cleaned the armature enough for a test. I used paper clips on the brushes to hold them in place when I installed the armature. I drilled a very small hole in the case for the paper clip once the armature was back in I pulled the paper clips out and tested unit. Once I had it working I then sent it out of new brushes and armature turning. Good luck Steve

I thought I would add to this subject on the safety side. Fuel tank leaks and repairs we all just do it and safety needs to be brought up. When the tank is empty it is just a bomb looking for an ignition source. We all just do things and once and awhile read about an unfortunate incident like a fire. When working with a fuel tank. Check for static it is rare but happens go ahead and discharge the static in your body just to make sure. Do you have any pilot lights in your shop or garage that are on, if you have any spillage the fumes will find the ignition source. When draining the tank into a container use a bonding cable look for a metal water pipe or a good earth ground hook each item up to the cable, fuel tank and container you will pump into. We have all just drained and filled but search the web on static and fuel. Repair Once the tank is empty and out this is when you need to be in the know. Airing down can work by blowing fresh air into the tank it will take time. Another option is steam after cleaning, use a meter and confirm the container is safe. If you don’t have a way to confirm the tank is safe don’t try to repair the tank. The way to find a leak is seal the tank and add pressure, use regulated air and do not over pressurize, start at one pound then brush the suspected leak with your solution. Your fittings added to seal tank can blow off, be careful and don't over pressure the tank. I use Detecto mist from ken tools to locate leaks in welds, senders or any other items on a tank Detecto is used by tire shops they might have a small amount to sell. Use a small paint brush and cover a weld or seam with the solution after repair repeat test. Bottom line: repairing a tank is best left to the experts. I know of a few folks that have tried and had a bad experience. They are OK and much more careful now. Steve

I have taken these pumps apart and found corrosion at the brush to armature it causes no contact so the motor will not operate. The Vacuum side on mine was gummed up I cleaned it freed up vanes and the unit worked. After I had it working and new it was worth the time, I had an electrical shop that repairs starters and generators turn the armature and install new brushes. They installed the vacuum part and even tested operation. With all the pictures here, locate an electrical shop they might do this for you. I might have pictures of mine as I dissembled if needed. Steve

1953 RM need chrome surround for ashtray and radio. My surrounds are in tough shape I do not really want to send these out for plating. I am looking for better examples to send out for plating. Thanks Steve

I did a VIN inspection in my home state of Oregon a few years back. The DMV pulled a book from the shelf and looked up 53 Buick. It listed the location of the serial number on the frame also serial number location attached to the body and body tag location. In 1953, the reference material the state used noted Phillip screws held on the body tag and body serial number. I have also parted a few 53 Buick's and this is what I have found on those units. In 53 the serial number on Chevy cars is stainless steel and spot welded to the left doorpost about vent window height. Makes me wonder why one branch of GM used screws and another used a spot welder, and then Oregon used the engine serial number for the VIN# until 1955 if I recall. Steve

I am trying to position the tab that welds on the floor for the power seat. I never had a good way to make a pattern on this before I removed what was left of the floor. If anyone has a picture and a few measurements on the correct location, it would be a great help. I have looked at my parts book and what I have for the track and I do not see how the seat track works, I must be short on a few key parts. Once this tab is in place I am done with the lower rust repair. Then I have rust in a few other places that need repair it is all high window frame and trunk upper seal area. My seat track I am using for a pattern is not much good I have another one but it is in storage and buried Thanks Steve

Thanks I did not see this when looking at Bob's. I will purchase this and post a picture for all in the future. Steve

I am looking for a picture or any information regarding the knob and hardware that is used on the end of the trip meter reset cable. I have looked in my parts book and a reset knob is listed no other information I will add a few pictures of my reset cable. Thanks Steve

Time to start on the dash I would like to find gauges that are in better condition than mine are. The top was down or rotted sun and water damage on the gauges. The key switch is also in tough shape the ears show marks from plyers a better core would help in these areas. One question on the key has anyone had any success removing the chrome from the tumbler for plating? The speaker cover has tabs that you can remove they have lighter air vent & lights on them anyone have these that are in great shape? I would also like to find the chrome that goes around the ashtray and radio opening; mine are pitted and will likely take more work than a better example. A good hinge with the spring will be a big help also. I will add a few pictures of my seasoned parts. . I do have a good clock I need the rest of the gauges. Send me a PM if you have parts that will fit my project. 53 RM and Super should be the same. Thanks Steve

The radiator strap has rusted where soldered to the upper tank. I had this repaired about a year ago; I am surprised to see this. Should I clean it up, use a rust encapsulator, and paint over this area? I now need to locate or source all the correct bolts and washers needed. I am trying to locate all the needed parts when I take a break doing rust repair. The paint I used on the inner fenders is not very tough. I can scratch it very easy. After I have the body ready and installed I might paint these with a different product. Part of the learning curve I guess. Steve