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195354

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Everything posted by 195354

  1. Scary stuff when the steering locks up. Check what the others have suggested bent or damages steering parts could be the cause. My 53 RM would not turn left after repairing the steering gear and pump. I had a bit of a problem with air in the steering system. The gear was air locked for left turn after bleeding it worked fine. The crunch noise I have seen on a few old rides. Don’t rule out the steering column, the top bearing or horn contact can be an issue. Little history would help have you done any work on any of the steering components before this drive? I don’t have a 54 manual but I have taken a few 54 cars apart and the steering looked very much like a 53. Jack the car up place it on stands center the tires to the frame, do a visual inspection does anything look bent or out of place. Place a piece of tape on the steering wheel at high noon, engine not running turn it left return to center then right return to center the count should be the same each way. If the count is not remove the drag link then repeat if it is the same it is time to look at the steering drag link it has an adjustment. I recall reading in the manual for 52 & 53 this is how to center the steering wheel. The drag link will most likely have a spring and cups inside that the pitman arm ball goes in, check this out the spring can fail or it is just worn out. When the steering drag link is removed turn the wheels by hand left and right do they move easy, if not check for the cause of binding. I have seen seized kingpins cause this even tie rod ends can be stuck. I am very interested to know what the noise is as the parts are isolated hopefully you will find the cause. I centered the steering gear on my 53 convertible then the wheels. I then adjusted the drag link and tie rods to fit. Steering is the same left to right now and the gear is centerted. Steering gears needs to be centered so the power circuit is not activated driving straight. If it is not centered the power circuit will be activated impacting drivability and possibly over heating the oil. Good luck Steve
  2. Winter is just around the corner still driving the RM every chance I get. Went to Spokane and the car never missed a beat. I am still in wonderment that a 70 year old car drives this well especially at freeway speeds. Those that have newer Buicks must really have a great road car. Few things I hope to repair this wet and cold winter. Power window switches are needing kits installed they work but you have to hold the lever a certain way. Needs weather striping to cut down wind noise. The radio Coax needs repair, trunk light is not working this is one of the few items that drives me crazy for some reson. Few other items on the punch list, the only Item I am torn on is the power brake booster. Power brakes work fine but it is the only thing that was not worked on last fall when I did the brake system. I will most likely send a core booster out for repair. Thinking of driving this to the national meet next year will see how things go. My old Case Dozer is in the shop, the crack I heard last winter was a case breaking. I could not see it in the mud covered machine. Winched it on my old trailer Saturday. Would have done it a while back but the fire danger was too high to be off the road. Found a used case made a gasket and I am ready to install it next day or two. I hope to have this out of the shop this next weekend and back at Buick projects. The winch make a great cheater pipe glad OSHA wasn’t around the hook does have a safety latch! Steve
  3. Car club had a small meet at a gated community last weekend. This lasted a few hours, had a lunch in the rec center. Must be something in the air four older Buicks in one area is rare in Eugene. Some nice cars arrived fun time, the dodge bumper sticker gets a lot of laughs. Steve
  4. Check the compatibilty of the O ring, Buna Nitrile should hold up to fuels of today. The vendor should have a compatibility chart that you should check. I have made the mistake thinking an O will work without checking compatibility the seal works for a bit. Steve
  5. Used this firm two years ago on a Camaro R12 conversion to 134. I sent the compressor receiver dryer and a few hose also POV valve. Everything fit on return system works well. I did change the condenser due to damage not quite exact match. Compressor and dryer had the QC factory stamping on return. l recall they had exchange units if needed. I wanted the date codes on this car. Good time of year for AC repair these vendors are not quite as busy. ‘Steve
  6. I sent the pump and valve to Hydro-E-lectric in Florida. The bottom of the valve in many cases is rusted out mine was. They have this part if needed my valve came back looking good. The pump was also repaired. I thought of doing this but after talking with the vendor decided to send it out. We also discused the cylinders mine are trash. They recommended purchasing them when I am ready to test the system out. An outside vendor builds them with a one year warranty I believe. This way if I have an issue with one it is under warranty. They must know how slow I work on this car. I would like to hear what you come up with from your hose supplier as far as options. I have one hose that is installed not supper happy with the fit and the ID of the hose. The supplier I am working with keeps thinking brake line is the best and possibly the only option for this size of line. Brake line fittings are .103 ID the OEM fittings are .1720 I am thinking about flow. They are still looking at options. I will update you if they find something that will work. Save your 90 degree fittings for the lines. I wanted to replace mine and nothing in this size in the store or that they can order. They dug into the catalogs even. A tee fitting with a plug is the best option they had, I cleaned up my 90 degree fittings and added a crush washer used these in the past on fittings it does help reduce leaks on old fittings. The one Picture is a parts car. I believe the only 90 that can be seen once the car is assambled is on the left side. I added a view of the crush washer for reference. Steve tell me about the clips on the firewall that hold the line in place and the retainers on the firewall for the wiring harness. What color are yours and how are you treating them before assembly. I tried paint here is a picture. I have been told the clips are black or cad plated, the clip for the wiring I am not sure. Thanks for the help on this phase of the project. Steve
  7. Dave A few pictures showing the power set up. The 52 manual had this information the 53 manual for what ever reason lacked the hydraulic information. To have functional windows & seat you have a bit of a journey ahead. The window cylinders are most likely stuck then the priority valve will need repaired a few lines and hoses. Then the pump will need looked into. Hydraulic windows are quite a conversation when you show folks how they work. I have seen a few top switches on eBay from time. If you head after the hydraulic system, and need anything let me know . l am in the midst of plumbing my 53 now l am figuring it out as l go. Dave car looks like a higher option car does it power brakes. I am not sure you could purchase this option on a super. Steve
  8. Dave Wish this was in my area would love to check it out. I would also like to know about the sill plates should it not say super? You most likely know the fluid for the power top back in the day was brake fluid. We all know what that does to paint. This is why my 53 RM has a bit of paint damage on the bottom of the door, a leak back in the day. Dave does this car have power windows and seat by chance that will bring more fun. I would like to see the power top motor in the trunk makes me wonder why in the truck and why not repair the pump Buick installed. If you would post a picture of the convertible lift switch I would like to see if it is the same as a RM and Skylark. I repaired the power seat on a 53 RM hardtop I stuck with brake fluid. Only because I was told that the seals in the lift cylinders on my windows would fail if I changed to ATF. I was also told the flexible hoses would also fail as they are not designed for oil. I will most likely regret that I did not convert to ATF but my 4 lift cylinders are working. Hard to spend the money on something that functions. Steve
  9. I ended up calling in-line they didn’t have these listed anywhere. If needed l can send part numbers but a call to inline has worked for me. Some of the lines on the engine are not listed either. Check with your supplier on the hose’s. l would like to know if they have a better options Steve
  10. Lines are from inline tube they are SS lines. Inline has a sale now and then usually 25% discount. That’s when l purchase items like this. l used inline SS lines on the 53 RM last winter fit like they should. Some of the bends would be tough to do without a kink in the line. The rubber lines end up being a brake line set up. Trying to do this another way ends up using too many fittings and the line grows in length then flexibility and fitment suffers. ‘Steve l hope to be at the hose house this week if not early next week. I am still gathering samples if you have samples you can you confirm a few things for me. Two hoses for the quarter windows and two for the door windows looks like these are the same right or left side. I don’t have a sample for the power seat, my plan was do this after project is further along. If you have this hose l would like a picture and measurements. l should be able to complete a hose from that. I fixed the power seat on my RM lt works fine but l would like to know what father Buick used. Last three hoses are on the pump. I have not confirmed the length on these yet. You can see in one picture what the hoses will look like not exactly what they had when new but close. Once mine are built l can give you a cost and l will have them built up here in good old Oregon for you if it’s something that will fit your needs. Steve
  11. Brian Great build it is moving along. In my town one hose house builds flared lines and rubber brake lines. They also fab fuel injection lines for a few applications. Not every hose house can build rubber brake lines special training and fittings. One of the gents will come out to the shop or house and fab the needed brake lines as a side hustle. He has all the needed tools. I have been told it is worth it. I just found this out last week when I was grabbing a few hoses. He has done this for more than a few rigs in our area. In the future might be worth asking your hose supplier if they do this. I will either take a sample in and have them build the line or if needed have him come out to my project, I hate flaring lines. Steve
  12. Few clips ready for lines and wires still digging for a few more line hold downs. Lines are in the diversion valve fitment on this end was good. Need to add body sealer to the valve and screw it in place now. The lines behind the heater will a bit of bending so they fit correctly and the line on the firewall on the driver side will need bent around. I have one line that forms an S and have yet to locate a home for this line. I have the old rubber lines out they are being made. Once I have these lines I hope to wrap this part of the project up. I will not be able to go any further until the seat and window regulators are installed, and the top frame. Steve
  13. Started laying out the hydraulic system today this car has a fluid supper Highway under the carpet. I printed out my pictures as a guide. l had so much rust some references points were missing. The 53 manual just talks about pump pressures and testing. I have a 52 manual it has the needed information hopefully it’s the same in 53. l can’t imagine GM redesigning the diversion valve for 12 volt. I will get the lines to lay in the needed areas so the carpet fits and the seat track fits as it should. Steve
  14. Thought I would post a few pictures showing the mounts for the motivator on the firewall. This might help someone in the future. I thought the orientation would be easy to figure out. After a few failed attempts I checked out the RM with the pump. The joys of purchasing a disassembled car. The top arm that bolt to the motor after cleaning is not black. Stainless steel Eastwood paint is very close. I will touch up a few bolts that hold the mounts with paint next time I have paint mixed. The ground strap on the RM attached to the top bolt on the upper mount like the one in the picture. Time to start plugging holes in the firewall and running lines. Steve
  15. Tough to pin this down listening to the video. I am in the sticking valve camp. I did notice you can hold a fairly low RPM and it makes the noise. Can you adjust the carburetor to hold this speed then use a stethoscope or anything like a long bar to pin down the noise. I put my thumb over the end of a long bar and then hold the bar to my ear. I would try each valve cover first if you hear it at valve cover that is were l would go next. Try and depress the valve on each cylinder. I have bolted a chain to the engine in different spots then create a loop put a bar through that and push down each valve. I used a 2x4 on end in the past. Rocker lever will need to be removed be careful to push on the valve stem not the spring. You don’t want to dislodge the valve keepers. When you find one that is slow to return you found the issue. I had a stove bolt Chevrolet with a similar problem. Would backfire once in a while this was after it ran like a champ for about 500 miles. One day the valve stuck on a hill. Once l was going down the other side the temp dropped just a bit back to normal. The above method is how I found my issue. Machine shop had the guides tight painful pulling that head over a fender. Steve
  16. Painted pump mounting and hardware body color last weekend. Will install the pump this weekend after l round up lock washers and nuts for the rubber mounts. I should be able to start running the lines for power seat the convertible top and windows after that. Steve
  17. Here are a few pictures from a 53 pinion nut and front seal ride for referance. I am not sure the changes a 55 have on the seal and nut. I located the nut and seal on E-bay the front seal ride I never did, I had a machine shop make the front seal ride. My pinion nut needed changed because the seal ride was worn. Check the forum out many folks are drilling the tube and adding a drain this way you can check the tube for ATF. I have done this and I would recommend it. I would be interested to know the noise you have might help with a 55 in my area. I am working with a 55 owner, he has a vibration in the drivetrain. I am convinced the driveline is out of balance due to the way he removed it from the pinion. Steve
  18. Club had a show yesterday fun for all. Drove the RM to town and found another local Buick owner. He said he only drives it about 20 miles every few months. His goal is to keep it useable for a show or two. I have seen the car around wish he was driving it more often. I am driving the RM as much as possible this summer. The Local A club showed up with a few rigs for the show. The owner of the Kaiser had his judging sheet arrive from his national meet. He is sporting a gold award judging is a 200 point system, his sheet was 197. He brought up his coil is incorrect color. Steve
  19. Here is the location of the part in question. Not the best picture and these need a bit of love Steve
  20. This fits the front seat at the rear above the seat tracks. The plastic surround screws to this in the back and the side. l will send a pic from a seat in a car when l am in the shop. Steve
  21. Now that the 53 hardtop is reliable time to move back to the ragtop. The body shop have repaired the front and rear fenders. Left rear quarter was the biggest challenge lower 3’ or so was rusted and gone. These are now ready to fit on the car. The doors are the next rust repair job. The body shop didn’t want the car until the panels are ready to hang. They will get the car then work on gaps and finish out panels. l still have time to do few items before the car goes to the shop. This car was in boxes when purchased, l spend more time hunting for parts then assembly. hydraulic motor and diversion valve are back from repair and ready to install. Found the torque bracket after digging in boxes. It fits over the top of the motor and captures the motor. The other two mounts that hold the motor should have been on the firewall when l painted the firewall. I will paint them and install. The torque bracket looks to be black. This is one reason l have the 53 RM great reference while assembling the 53 ragtop. Steve
  22. Dan I like to leave things original as much as possible. I don’t have an inline Buick but a 53 V8 Buick here is my experience with vapor lock over the last two years. 53 Buick engine would die for no reason usually after sitting at a stop light when taking off it would die. I could start the engine up after a few seconds thinking it’s electrical l added grounds from chassis to engine to fix the issue. It seemed to resolve the issue. Then l noticed it would hardly start after sitting for a few minutes when the engine was hot. Great example Stop for fuel it’s hard to start. This spring after doing quite a bit of work on the car the issue was worse. I have a few hills heading home and without fail engine would loose power towards the top. I then started going after vapor lock issue. Installed kit in mechanical fuel pump, no difference. Even had the privilege of pushing the beast off the road. Flat ground driving in traffic because of a vapor lock. l then installed an electric fuel pump at the back this fixed my issue. I can now use the car and not worry about pushing it. Fuel still boils when sitting at the fuel stop but l can get it going now. My 53 Chevrolet with a six has never had a vapor lock issue. I have owned this for 40 plus years. I drive it as often as the Buick will let me. This year it started vapor locking. Checked for vacuum leaks on the suction side did find one corrected it and still vapor locked. This car will have a pump added now. Fuel companies must have changed the blend here in the NW.l have never experienced this issue until the last few years. The Buick is not reliable without a pump. They can be installed out of sight hide the switch and enjoy the drive. When l purchased the Buick the fuel lines on the engine had heat wrap did not help the issue. I have since removed the heat wrap and nothing’s changed ‘Steve
  23. Car club BBQ last weekend about a 45 minute drive from the homestead. Also a stop at Walmart on the way to BBQ. RM is gathering miles this summer. The AC install was worth it hot here and my CFO enjoys the car on a new level. I recall a saying about someone being happy Good times at the BBQ the 52 Kaiser just returned from his national meet he drove to the meet it was a few hours away. Very nice car with 25K on the clock. He had to leave the national early and should have the judging results any day now. Steve
  24. Al thanks for the info, Willie you are correct a lot work it is to bad it needs revisited. I would doubt the pinion is bent, the owner will need to find a unit then take it apart with the correct tooling. That is If he wants to change out just the driveline. Are the choices just 54 & 55 Super and RM that will fit this car. Here is a picture of my puller & install tool. You can see the balance weight on my driveline. Not many machine shops left in the area that might even try to help on his existing driveline. After all the work that went on I would not want to use the existing driveline. I would feel much better with another driveline if I owned the car. Image trying to track down the vibration if you purchased this car with no back story. Thanks Steve
  25. A local Buick owner of a 55 RM has developed a vibration in his car at 45 mph and above. The vibration started after removing the driveline from the pinion. He had no tooling when this operation was performed. I happened to be at the driveline shop and the driveline was sitting on the bench needing balance. I recognized it being out of a torque tube and asked if they can work on this type of driveline. They don’t have a way to chuck it up and spin balance or check runout. l think it was cut then a 3 jaw puller used to remove the rest of the driveline from the pinion, then work on gears or pinion seal. I believe it was welded together and installed. It is most likely out of balance and runout is out of spec. l have offered to lend a hand and the tooling. My thoughts are find a driveline or a differential with the torque tube. Then switch out the driveline or complete tube and gears after inspection. My parts book doesn’t go beyond 54. What years and models will provide the needed parts for the 55 RM, will my puller for the 53 fit those years. Locating the parts then freight charges will slow things down. When this is resolved l will post an update. Thanks in advance for any advice and information, l will most likely end up doing some of the repairs to help him out. Steve
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