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This has a Carter carb with wire removed from switch going to relay starter does not crank, I should have been saying this all along. When I have the key on and power wire hooked up on carb switch after moving throttle lever about half the time I would have voltage on the terminal going to the relay terminal. As I was testing this I would touch the wire on the terminal and the starter relay would trip at about 3.5 volts and starter would crank. I started troubleshooting this with my meter and it would have continuity most of the time throttle closed variable was the voltage would change each time from zero all the way to 12 volts. I checked the adjustment looks to be correct., I do want to say not much experience with these switches. I just removed the switch from my convertible project and it shows the brass in the barrel, it is now installed on the RM and working like it should zero volts throttle closed will test operation over the next few days. It will be interesting to see if it works correctly if so I will need to figure out what is wrong with this switch. Charged the AC on the Studebaker Bullet nose last weekend for a club member. He has done everything on this car drug it out of a field a year ago. He has done the body and paint installed V8 and Rack and pinion, then purchased a sewing machine and is doing the upholstery. He is all self taught, I love to see another convertible saved and be driven for all to enjoy. Club did a show at the local mall Fathers day weekend, I am no longer the only Buick nut in the club Steve

Check out the random start issue key on I switched start relay with another used relay same issue. I can now duplicate the issue at will using throttle Pulled one wire from switch on carb. Power wire has 12volts at switch the other side that goes to start relay will show 3 volts up to 12 volts throttle closed. Pulled switch checked it out looks to be too be in spec. I have added a few pictures, the cover with the contacts has brass showing in the barrel. I believe this to be the issue. Hard to see let me know if this is normal to have the brass showing like this in the barrel. I will dig around in my parts, hope I have one to compare. Did find a loose stud on coil power wire it would move around. This has been corrected this could have been the engine dying issue.

I have been driving the RM every chance I get. It has a few bugs that l need to resolve if anyone has had these symptoms let me know what you found. First symptom engine will shut down I coast over to the side of the road place unit in park starts up and off you go. No pattern to this other than it seems to happen first few miles. Is there a way to start this in motion, hope you place it neutral and try starter, worried about going to park. Next issue is key on not doing anything the starter will engage and engine starts and starter will disengage. The problem is hot or cold sometimes as soon as key is placed in on position other times it takes a few seconds. I am thinking l need to resolve the random starter issue so can trace down the engine shut down. l have checked the switch on the carburetor only has continuity throttle pulled to start position so far. The issue is it’s random and l am never ready to check it when it happens. Car has a generator with electric ignition. Starts and runs great 99% of the time what a fun car to drive, my old Chevrolet of the same year drives much different. My Chevrolet has the 235 nice to drive a V8 Thanks in advance for any ideas on my issues Steve

Today it rained and a bit of wind but it is never too wet in Oregon for a car show. Decided that the RM is the best choice today drove it about 40 miles from my home to the show. Turnout was light today due to the weather. I was pleasantly surprised how my trip went. Drove great ride is a bit soft from what I am used too, few things that needed sorted out are the steering wheel is not even close to center, carpets are in need of replacement and trunk light and a radio. I need the trunk light just because I want everything working and I need something that makes music. Added a Picture showing the lights by the ash trays I have never seen a 53 dash lit up. The 48 was worth checking out all stock under the hood. The paint is not for me even the owner indicated he wished it was one color. The pickup sat in a field and was put in a garage a few years back it was used in the glass business back in the day the owner just got this going last week. We just don't have many pre 60s Buicks around this area, only had mine 48 Buick at the show this is pretty typical even when the the sun is out. Steve

53 RM is back in action torque tube is installed and I drove it a few hundred feet and parked it, no leak. Before this would have a puddle of oil under it in minutes. I replaced the seal on the drive shaft, I was lucky no grove in sealing surface. Drilled the torque tube and added a plug, it was full of ATF. I also drained the diff oil it was full of ATF. Topped fluids level of and flushed brake fluid then adjusted brakes. Getting closer. Next up is the cooling system then lights. After this I need to stand in line at the DMV with my historic plates. Steve

Bernie I am doing the same here local hose house makes DOT brake hoses. They have the same fittings this way fitment will be correct. I recall using brake hoses that are difficult to make the retaining clips work properly. Your project looks great, I am not painting mine. My plan is just cleaning and repairing what must be done for reliabilty. I keep telling myself stop, don't tear things down any further than needed. My plan for this RM is a driver might see it chasing parts or grocery shopping. I keep looking at the back and think to my self how nice this would look with a trailer hitch. Maybe another time, I have another Buick call my name. Before I pulled out the differential I had to make sure it left a mark in the driveway other than oil, low gear and full throttle. Left a nice mark on the driveway not bad for a 69 year old car. Steve

Mission this weekend is Torque ball repair, pulled differential ran to town and steamed cleaned assambly, it was covered in dirt oil and under coating. Cleaned up parts and I am ready to assemble. I will be on standby for the rear shock links and a rubber brake hose from Frame to control rods. This looked to have the original torque ball assembly and it leaked like it was over 60 years old. Thrust pad was also broken. Plan is install torque ball and differnintial tomorrow install other parts as they arrive. I still need to install heater hoses and repair the heater Ranco heater valve Steve

After cutting welding building and a few bandaids and adding and subtracting a shim between the Frame and body the driver door fits. Now to get the R/H door on Steve

Will give Youtube a try, here is the power seat ram in action the mount at the front bolts to the seat base. I will add the seat moving after it is bolted down and the seat moving when the back is tilted. I tried to get my head around how the seat would move forward when tilting the seat back forward. It raises up the seat base releasing it from the seat track then moving forward you now have incressed access to rear seat. Next project on the RM is the Torque ball just received the needed parts to make this repair, still waiting for the needed energy. Steve

Power seat is up and working. Here are a few pictures. Convertible's have a valve that goes under the passenger seat, in the spot that has the tee. They switch the flow for the fluid from windows and seat to top only when the top is in operation. Those of you that have electric seats and windows are lucky. Those of us that have this system deal with leaks and electricity, and a spring that wants to trap you. What is the easiest way to add a video, I have one showing mechanism working. I have never seen a seat powered with a Cyl work before, someone else might find this useful. Steve

Power forward only, the power seat switch opens a valve in the Cyl the spring pulls the seat back fluid returns to reservoir. To move the seat forward move the switch to the forward position then the pump runs the same valve is open so fluid can expand the Cyl The seat does have a feature that releases the seat lock when the back is tilted forward . The seat base will move forward without the power function. This is what I have seen so far once it is up and running I might find out I am wrong. I have built a few hoses and hope to install them soon and give it a go and see if it works like I think it does. Steve

This 53 followed me home about a year ago, it was sitting with interior removed under seat heater removed and blocked off dash apart front clip removed. Best part it leaks oil like nothing I have seen, no need to guess a way home. Now that the body is on my convertible the plan is make this Roadmaster a driver. The power windows now work, I need to address a tubing issue on one window it hits when going down. I have a large oil leak at the Torque ball that will need addressed before much use. One strange issue it has it will just start cranking over randomly when sitting. I do leave the batt unhooked when not in use this still has the the switch on the carb, any thoughts on what I should do first clean up the switch? For the most part it is a sound car power brakes work well, looks to have had recent brake work, Engine runs like a top and it is a 53 engine in the engine bay. Big one is the rust is minimal. Should be a fun ride once it is sorted out. Will never be a show car just a ride to town. Front clip is back on and engine oil leaks are repaired. The power steering is not what I would call power, pump pressure is in spec. I don't like were this is going to end up will address this at a latter date. I have found most needed parts for the under seat heater and I think and the power seat. I have a new Cyl for the power seat I am looking for any advise and pictures showing the power seat Cyl installed. I have never seen a power seat work or put together that I could look over. It seams like every time I bring a Buick home they are in boxes. I have an exploded view showing the parts. It is tough to see location of each part does the Cyl go between the scissor assemble or on top or the bottom, the part that bolts on the seat makes contact on the Cyl body that does not seam correct to me, I would think over time it will damage the Cyl. I will make up wires and work back into the harness once I locate were it is cut. Thanks in advance for any pictures, here are a few of the parts I have for the seat and heater Steve

I would Pull the starter out and have it checked out or find another one for testing. I would think it is possible it has a 12volt field winding or armature. I have an electric shop close by they never ask if it is 12 volt or 6 volt, I bring it up when dropping things off for repair. Just to be sure I don't get the wrong parts installed. One thing you could try if you have the cables is hook short cables direct to the stater and use a starter bumper. This will bypass everything, if it cranks over like it should start back tracking Good luck Steve

Thanks for the advice l did see the holes that help guide the body in place. I painted the firewall was not happy with the finished product. Started over did it again had a few areas that needed fixed the second time. Repairs made on a few small areas, ready to go. I am not a painter but it passed muster from my boss. Her father worked in the body and paint trade his whole life. He also worked on cars at home after working in a body shop all day, she’s seen many a paint job come out of a home garage. I drove the chassis one last time, then backed it in for the body installation. I set the body on the frame last weekend still need to square it up add a shim here and there snug it down. Then test fit the doors, l am curious to see if anything still fit’s. Steve

I have been thinking about the installation of the body on my frame. The service manual gives me a center point on the frame. I am looking for the center of the body, I have not seen anything in the body and frame manuals showing a center point for the body. I had planned to use a tape measure and measure left to right and front to back, on body to frame when setting it on. The more I think about it, the center of the body is the way to go. I will start measuring and try to come up with a centerline. I can only imagine if the body is installed on the frame incorrectly how hard it will be to install the front clip and have anything like fenders and bumpers fit correctly. I wonder how the factory installed the body and squared it up back in the day going down the assembly line. Any advice will be welcome Thanks in advance. Steve

Back on the mighty Buick until another issue or project sidelines me. I did get sidetracked a bit on other projects around the place. One is I needed to work on an old crawler I have for the place. Tuned it up and serviced it was way over due by decades, first time in the shop. In the past I always worked out in the elements. Loaded it on the trailer this time and brought it inside, the biggest issue was the fuel tank. It leaked and had so much rust it would not keep running. Pulled the tank cleaned it repaired leaks and used one of the kits to seal the steal. I put points in I always have to file them in the spring, first set of points failed taking them out of the box. The plating came off. The old case is out running now back to the Buick. I painted the bottom this weekend and it looks like I have a handle on the body color. Next weekend I plan on painting the firewall and windshield frame. I have never painted before, I just read the Tech sheets and follow the instructions. Steve

Posted a this few weeks back in Have you driven your Buick Snowed last week of December unusual at my place in Eugene. I had made plans to move the RM from our barn to the house. I was on the public roads for about a thousand feet then up to the house. Heater and defrost also power seat still need repair & a few small items then it should be on the road. I am looking for the power seat track now. l try to not leave anything in our barn over the winter, the local wildlife might want to move in. Steve

Snowed last week of December unusual at my place in Eugene. I had made plans to move the RM from our barn to the house. I was on the public roads for about a thousand feet then up to the house. Heater and defrost also power seat still need repair & a few small items then it should be on the road. I am looking for the power seat track now. l try to not leave anything in our barn over the winter, the local wildlife might want to move in. Steve

Clean everything like Robin suggested check every ground surface and cable. I am not sure how this grounds, I would suspect a weaved cable to the block or frame then does the starter ground with a short cable to the frame or block. I personally have fought problems with starting systems and lost sight of a good grounding system. 12 volt or 6 volt systems all need a sound ground this will affect cranking and possibly give you a voltage drop for the ignition. I just had a cable issue at work, the cables looked good ohm checked out good but the unit would crank slow intermittently. I added jumper cables from the battery to the starter and found the problem. If possible try this if they will fit, home run jumper cables from battery to starter fully charged battery and see how it cranks. You need the larger cables that Robin suggested the lower voltage needs larger cables. I would check voltage at the coil before and while cranking possibly give the points a file treatment if needed. I checked the service manual and did not see a spec for cranking speed, I would think its in a spec that I have not found. Other things that you could check are coil and condenser and ground at the distributor and check your plugs. Hows the floor repair coming along these can be time consuming, like to see how the braces are working out. Steve

looking good Glad you pushed through on the project. I love that you are driving it around. How many people can say, I had a Buick Skylark drive by today. Steve

One thought after reading through this is eliminate any possible vacuum leaks. Block or plug any ports that feed systems like a power brake vacuum tank if it is a power brake car, get to the point of carburetor and engine on the vacuum side. Break out a straight edge and check everything that has a flat surface. Remember that gaskets will seal but you need a flat surface or close to it. One other tool I use is an infrared temp gun then you can see what cylinder is cold or colder that any others. Once you have this information you can start narrowing down your search. I also use a plastic set of pliers then I can pull spark plug wires and listen for a change in the engine. Good luck Steve

Thought I would post a few pictures showing progress, I did the primer a few months back just getting to the pictures. I should have started with a rust free car. I have struggled with the formula for correct white getting close now. Few pictures from start to now getting close to installing body. Steve

Looking good another soft top will be saved. I like all the added cross bracing you will be glad you added them. I know how much these bodys can and do move removed from the frame. You should add this to me and my Buick I would love to watch the progress. Steve

OK tried a few things in youtube hope it works now I did not save the changes Steve https://youtu.be/QnNJ2m0BB2s