Beltfed

Cleaning up garage and taking inventory of parts for the ‘38 coupe that’s been up on stands for 5 years. I’m thinking I may not have the tallent or funds to complete her. Anyway, I purchased this part from somewhere and wrote “1938 left rear inner fender”” on it. Looking at car, I can’t see where it could fit the ‘38. Those anyone recognize this piece and know what it fits. Thanks.

Seen in the swap meet at the NSRA National in Louisville Ky. Know nothing about it. Not my engine. Seller’s name is Mr. Truck out of Joplin, Missouri, phone #417-438-5200. Will have more pics later today.

You might want to think about residual valves also. 10 pounds for drums, 2 pounds for disks. The brake guys say anytime the m/c could be lower than the rest of the system, they are a good idea.

What year car? Columbia rear end? Early model rear end with 15+ foot speedo cable or the latter model with great box on firewall?

If your interested, the name of the company that ‘can’ make your trim is “Northfield Forming”. If you were to get them motivated to do it, I would be willing to add my trim to the order. They may gear up for two cars. Other interested parties may also wish to join in. A pattern may be necessary. I would be will to donate a piece of upper side trim for the spear point pattern.

Let us know if you find it. I’ve been looking for 4+ years for it. There is a company that will make it. They were just about ready to do it for two years till I gave up on them.

Master cylinders mounted on fire wall usually require hanging pedals. My 38 doesn’t have hanging pedals so the m/c would be mounted somewhere under the driver (if a stock 38 had hydraulic brakes). If you add a booster to the mix it tends to get a little crowded as most boosters are too big in diameter to fit between the floor pan and hanging to low. There is a pancake style that will fit. It is of course personal choice, but I prefer the copper/zinc type of brake line used on many modern high end cars. Easy to bend and the double flare ends are SO MUCH easier to make.

A couple of items to ponder. Can you fit the 7” booster under the floor without lowering the m/c. You will need a vacuum port for the booster. Hard to find without messing with the top of engine. You only have a small hole in floor boards for the old ‘fruit jar m/c. That will have to be addressed unless you go with remote reservoirs.

I understand that a ‘pusher’ and ‘puller’ fan is not a great idea. The problem seems to be that a vortex is established when both fans are running and the air flow is actually diminished. I think a better solution is a good shroud. Design and build it so it covers the radiator and the metal or plastic cuts the fan in the center of the blades. There are a lot of vendors out there to help if you don’t do DIY.

I was told by a very old brake and tranny shop that, that type of shoe is only for emergency brake applications. I had planned on using that style on my ‘38, last year for the cables. Went with his suggestion not to use them.

All the steam powered generators I am familiar with turn 3600rpm, but their may be others that rotate at different speeds. I would think it would take a heck of a gear box to get rpm like that from a steam engine. But, I watch YouTube and people are always coming up with a better mouse trap.

Interesting. In my area, if you can make electricity you can sell it to your power company. I understand by law, they must buy it. The generator is the easy part. A steam turbine is another can of worms. It will take only high pressure steam and lots of it. You must also rotate your generator to produce a 60 Herz frequency and it must be in sync with your incoming power frequency if you tie the two together in any way. A better idea might be to generate the ‘rough’ ac and convert to dc. You could then use the dc as is, separate wires of course, or using an inverter, convert back to ac. There are will be power losses but it free, right.

Ralphnog49, You may want to think about addressing the upper coil wire (red in your pic). From the pic it looks very close to the center feed buss for the ballast resistors. If it shorts to the buss, you will notice nothing as the engine will still run fine. But you will feed that coil bank too much current and it might burn out. Henry, being as cheap as he was, would not have allowed the ballast resistors unless they were necessary.

No, not a barn find. A coal mine find. Found in a coal mine 35 years ago and and stored in a chicken coop since. Located in a small coal mining town in East Tennessee. Guy wants $1000.00 but money talks as they say. No engine or tranny. If interested, drop me a message. Not my car.

We don't know how it was modified. A pic would help or a better description of modified.

Go down to a book store and buy a copy of "Street Rodder". Leaf through the adds and call some of the many companies that sell aftermarket disc upgrades.

I read somewhere you could mount the long spring by itself and then stack the others on one at a time. Don't know if that's true or not. I used a spring spreader to do mine and my 'pucker factor' has never been higher. If it lets loose bad things will happen.

I purchase a bore scope several months ago but have yet to use it other than test. Mine is such that you can't see straight ahead or I didn't figure that part out. Neat tool though. The pics look more like a hole than a chunk of something to me, or it's something like a valve guide with a hole though it.

Tom is spot on as usual. The click you heard was an electromagnet moving. When the points close it is almost a dead short and a lot of current is flowing for a short period of time. I found that a fuse called a "slow-blow" fuse works here. It has the ability to stand current over its rated value for short periods of time much like a thermal relay in line with large motors.

For what it's worth.....some guys don't like the alternator idea as it's not original to the car. If one wishes, "Power Master" and maybe others sell an alternator in a generator housing. You then can use the firewall voltage regulator 'can' to hide an unsightly but necessary item. Also the idiot light circuit can be deleted if you wish.

Boy, you guys got me to thinking. I had lap belts on my to do list for the 39 Packer. We do interstate driving as well as back roads (don't own a trailer). Now I don't know??

Any 6 volt stuff in the mix?

Left this post hanging. Have had the motor repair by Mr. Jaquith. He did a really nice job on it. Pulls the wipers like a mule.

As requested, more pics.