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Dennis Jones

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  1. Does anyone know the assembly process of installing brakes on a 1948 Studebaker Commander. I can't figure out how to put the self adjuster hardware back together. Thanks, Dennis
  2. My 1933 Chevy Master Coupe was hit in the rear fender. The impact was severe enough that the whole wooden framing was damaged. After about a month of insurance adjusters and a body shop inspecting it was determined the cost of repair was higher than it was insured for. So a couple of days ago I bought a 1948 Studebaker Commander. I got it running today and still need to do numerous other stuff but I am very happy with this car.
  3. Thanks for the input. I will be checking the car out closely this weekend. Dennis
  4. I am thinking of buying a 1948 Studebaker Commander and I am asking how hard are the parts to find for it. I think the car is in good shape. But I know you can never tell about when a clutch or wheel bearings or even engine parts will need to be replaced. Has anyone got any information on parts availability for this car? Thanks for any input. Dennis Jones
  5. I had cabin fever today from being cooped up in the house for so long. So I drove my 1933 Chevy Master Coupe to Kingman, Arizona today just to get out of the house for a while. I got gas at the Safeway gas station and drove back home. We moved from California to Golden Valley, Arizona about three weeks ago and haven't been able to much of anywhere because of the virus going around. Doing our part to not spread this virus around. Here is a short one minute video of the drive. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BIsxzjQ-7r8
  6. Tom, Sorry it took so long to look at this Forum again. I do appreciate you looking to see that you have one. It turned out it wasn't the switch. I installed a six volt alternator on the car and connected the exciter wire to the stop light switch. It was that wire that kept blowing the fuse in the stop lights. I don't understand why it does that. But after connecting it to the switch side of the coil everything works fine. I can't connect it to the ignition switch because the poles on the ignition switch aren't long enough for the extra wire. Again, thanks Tom. Den
  7. I need a 1933 Chevrolet Master Brake Light Switch. I'm thinking a 32 or 34 might also work. If you have one please let me know how much you would sell it for and how you would want the payment. Thanks, Dennis Jones
  8. Out having fun in Victorville, California.
  9. My car is a 1933 Chevrolet Master Coupe and my question is about the clutch fork guide. I'm enclosing some pictures of mine and also the parts book picture. It looks to me like someone has cut some off of the length of it and also has ground down the ridge on the top of it. I'm wondering why only the 1933 Chevy has this part. My car has had a very bad rattle in the clutch linkage, or clutch pedal since I've owned the car. I removed the guide today and tried driving without it around the block. With the guide removed and the clutch pedal depressed it now makes a horrible knocking or rattling so
  10. I need a "clutch fork guide" for a 1933 Chevrolet Master 207 engine. I am posting pictures of my defective guide. Mine has been shortened and the ridge on top has been ground down. I don't understand why anyone would have modified it like this because its useless in this condition. If you have one you no longer need I would like to buy it from you. Thanks, Dennis Jones
  11. I've got the 33 Chevy all back together. Took it out for a quick drive and it all works perfect. I dropped the gas tank and fixed the fuel gauge sending unit and also installed a fuel filter and a six volt electric fuel pump at the tank. The float on the sending unit had fallen off inside the tank. I put that back together, fabricated a bracket for the electric fuel pump and installed an inline filter between the gas tank and the electric pump. I pumped 5 gallons at a time into the tank and check the gauge after each one and it looks as though the gauge is accurate. The car is almost entirely
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