Dennis Jones

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About Dennis Jones

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    jonda1@msn.com
  • Website URL
    https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCI_oZ2A3lV-9HSAHRvy-m8Q

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Apple Valley, California
  • Interests:
    Motorcycles and Classic Cars

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  1. Tom, Sorry it took so long to look at this Forum again. I do appreciate you looking to see that you have one. It turned out it wasn't the switch. I installed a six volt alternator on the car and connected the exciter wire to the stop light switch. It was that wire that kept blowing the fuse in the stop lights. I don't understand why it does that. But after connecting it to the switch side of the coil everything works fine. I can't connect it to the ignition switch because the poles on the ignition switch aren't long enough for the extra wire. Again, thanks Tom. Dennis
  2. I need a 1933 Chevrolet Master Brake Light Switch. I'm thinking a 32 or 34 might also work. If you have one please let me know how much you would sell it for and how you would want the payment. Thanks, Dennis Jones
  3. Out having fun in Victorville, California.
  4. My car is a 1933 Chevrolet Master Coupe and my question is about the clutch fork guide. I'm enclosing some pictures of mine and also the parts book picture. It looks to me like someone has cut some off of the length of it and also has ground down the ridge on the top of it. I'm wondering why only the 1933 Chevy has this part. My car has had a very bad rattle in the clutch linkage, or clutch pedal since I've owned the car. I removed the guide today and tried driving without it around the block. With the guide removed and the clutch pedal depressed it now makes a horrible knocking or rattling sound in addition to what it made before.So I guess it does need to be installed. I was hoping that with it removed it might solve the clutch pedal rattle. Because someone has modified it, it doesn't even extend into the opening in the bell housing which I assume was the function of it. I don't know how much mine was shortened. I will try to find a muffler shop or welding shop who will be willing to add maybe an inch or so to the length of mine. If anyone has one they don't need I would like to buy it. Or maybe someone would be willing to measure theirs and give me the measurements of it with a picture.Thanks,Dennis
  5. I need a "clutch fork guide" for a 1933 Chevrolet Master 207 engine. I am posting pictures of my defective guide. Mine has been shortened and the ridge on top has been ground down. I don't understand why anyone would have modified it like this because its useless in this condition. If you have one you no longer need I would like to buy it from you. Thanks, Dennis Jones
  6. I've got the 33 Chevy all back together. Took it out for a quick drive and it all works perfect. I dropped the gas tank and fixed the fuel gauge sending unit and also installed a fuel filter and a six volt electric fuel pump at the tank. The float on the sending unit had fallen off inside the tank. I put that back together, fabricated a bracket for the electric fuel pump and installed an inline filter between the gas tank and the electric pump. I pumped 5 gallons at a time into the tank and check the gauge after each one and it looks as though the gauge is accurate. The car is almost entirely stock. It always had a vapor lock problem, so I'm hoping the next time it vapor locks on a hot day I can just hit the accessory switch for the electric fuel pump for a few seconds and that will take care of it.
  7. Thanks a lot everyone. I appreciated your help in this matter. Dennis Jones
  8. Does anyone know what a modern equivalent of the AC C86 spark plug would be? I ordered new plugs for my 33 Chevy Master from the Filling Station and they sent me AC Delco R45 plugs. They are completely the wrong size plugs. Here is a picture of one of the plugs from my engine next to the Filling Station plug. Thanks, Dennis
  9. Here is an update on the Redline Full Synthetic MT-90 gear oil in my 1933 Master. I changed the gear oil in my transmission and free wheeling unit today. Took the car out for a drive before it started raining. The temperature was in the low 40's. Starting out the transmission did shift easier than the 600W oil. I drove the car for about 25 minutes and when it was fully warmed up it was shifting about the same as with the "Filling Station" 600W gear oil that was in the transmission prior to this. So I'm thinking I will leave this 75W90 synthetic oil in it until warmer weather and then change it to the Sta-Lube 140W.
  10. The Tech Specs sheet says it is safe for the brass synchro's.
  11. Thanks everyone. I appreciate your response's to my rough shifting problem. I know about shifting big trucks as I drove commercially for a while. Last year the car shifted just fine. Recently I've had some trouble getting it into second and third smoothly. It was just a thought and I figured I would run the idea through you guys because your collective knowledge about old cars is way more than I've ever known about them. I was thinking with this colder weather that maybe the problem was the thick gear oil. I guess I will drain it and refill it with Sta-Lube GL-4 140W.
  12. I am having some trouble shifting my 1933 Chevrolet Master Coupe. I am wondering if using Red Line Full Synthetic Gear Oil in the transmission would help. I have a case of it that I have no use for. It is a 75W-90 oil. Has anyone ever tried synthetic in their cars? I have attached the specifications information of this gear oil to this posting.