Akstraw

Thanks! Hershey might work well for me. I also need the door trim moldings that run horizontally about 1/3 down from the belt line of the door (on the interior). These are thin strips; either chrome or stainless, not sure which. They are missing on my car, so don’t have a photo. I will spend some time with my car this and see if I am reminded of anything else I may need. Will stay in touch.

One good place to go for reference info on trim is factory sales literature and photos. Perhaps the AACA Library has something useful for you on file.

This sounds like an electrical/solenoid issue to me, not a fluid issue. That’s where I would look first, though keeping all fluids full to spec is important for smooth operation in any car.

Thanks for your offer. If it has a jack and set of tools, I would be interested. Operators manual, too. I have nothing for mine except the spare wheel. Also need flipper handles for the rear windows. Let me know if you have any of these. If it is a coupe or convertible, I would be interested in the rear window regulator and track assemblies. If it has a solid exhaust manifold, I can use that, too. Maybe need a speedometer. Also need a master cylinder filler plug. Let me know if you think we can get together on any of these. I may think of a couple more needs when I look at my car tomorrow. BTW, Where are you located? Warm regards, Andrew North Carolina

A guy from the same phone number tried to scam me last week. Kept the dialog going until I asked him to send photos of the parts we were discussing. Then all of a sudden, did not hear from him again. I noted that he never gave me his name; a definite red flag. Sorry you got taken. Perhaps lucky it was only $200.

I’ve always thought that the engineers who designed the apparatus have the best take on the question of which lubricant to use. If the engine was designed for 10W-30 mineral oil, then use 10W-30 mineral oil. If the engine was designed for 5W-20 synthetic, then use that. Why do differently? Unless you have more knowledge of the engine than the designer.

Durk, The owner's manual for this car says: "Open the top pet cock in crank case. Pour oil in filler on top of timing gear cover just back of fan until oil runs out of the opened pet cock." Here is how I think it works: As you say, the 'valleys' in the upper tray should be full of oil. These become filled as you pour oil through the filler tube. Once the upper tray is filled, the oil drains into the lower pan through the round holes on the right. As the engine runs, oil pumped into the upper part of the engine by the oil pump will eventually drain back down into the upper tray, keeping it re-charged with oil. It is important to fill the lower pan up to the top petcock to ensure that the intake to the oil pump is submerged. -Andrew

Group I and II petroleum oils are referred to as "mineral oils" whereas Groups III and V are referred to as "Synthetic Oils". It may incorrect to conclude that a motor oil product identified as "mineral oil" is not petroleum-derived. Check out this definition: min·er·al oil /ˈmin(ə)rəl oil/ noun a distillation product of petroleum, especially one used as a lubricant, moisturizer, or laxative. "lipstick may contain mineral oil and artificial colors" Also this from the Castrol website: There are so many motor oils out there, which oil type is right for your vehicle? Well, there are three basic types: mineral, semi synthetic blend and full synthetic. Mineral oils are the least refined of the three, which means they cost less, but also provide less protection, performance and economy than the other options. Part synthetic motor oils are a blend of mineral oil and synthetic oil, to give added performance, but still at a lower cost than full synthetic motor oils. Full synthetics are the most expensive motor oils as they are highly refined, but offer the best protection and economy to absolutely every vehicle.

Thanks for posting, Steve. I think the HH Franklin Club is terrific. I hope to attend the Trek next year!

So what is it that you are looking for, the correct oil, or permission to use the wrong oil?

The interior on this car looks fabulous!

For a 1/16 hole, you can fix with a sheet metal screw and a neoprene washer. Or a sealed pop rivet.

There have been a number of prior threads on this. 10W is available. I think I have a case of it. If you can not find it, I will be happy to sell you some of mine for what I paid for it. Will have to go back and look.

I am looking for a fill plug for the master cylinder on a 1948 New Yorker. It is a male plug, the thread diameter is just under 1.25 in. and has 18 threads per inch. I can find a number of sources for a whole new master cylinder assembly, but none for just the plug. Does anybody know of a source, or have a spare laying around? Thanks!

Shortening the push rod seems to have done the trick. Thanks for your replies. You have saved me a day of research and headscratching!

I replaced the wheel cylinders, hoses and shoes on my 48 Chrysler. I did not replace the master cylinder, as I had evidence that the prior owner had done so. I flushed and bled the system with a pressure system, applying 15-20 lbs pressure at the master cylinder reservoir. On the 7-mile test drive, the pedal was firm, and became firmer. At the end of the drive, at least one wheel (RF) was locked up and smoking. Pedal was very firm with almost no travel, and the pressure-activated brake lights were on constantly after the car was parked and shut down. Where to look for the issue, and what could it be? Seems like maybe something wrong with the master cylinder. Any thoughts/ideas?

I enjoyed looking at these. Thanks!

There seem to frequently be Model A's come up for sale that have been set up for driving/touring. No other car will compare (except maybe Ford V8) for widely available parts and knowledge. For me, though, the Model A is a little too compact with two adults in it; I suppose that is a function of your personal dimensions. I think that any other car in that era is going to have some deeper challenges when it comes to parts, manuals, general knowledge. I personally like the Chryslers and Buicks, but was recently surprised when buying a '48 Chrysler how little is available for it, vs. a comparable Ford or GM product.

Don't know what car you have, but if it is an electric switch, it can be bypassed.

How much driving in the rain you plan to do in your 1928 Chrysler?

My local machine shop cut a part of similar size and complexity, but from 1/4" steel plate, for me using water jet for $40.

Depends what turns you on. Some like to drive and tour. Others like to repair, restore, and improve. Some are in between. None are right or wrong, as you said, and all have a place in our hobby. Figure out which one you are. Just be realistic about the many hours of cleaning, refurbishing, block sanding, buffing, etc, are involved with the latter course. Whatever you think the project is going to take, multiply by 2 or 3, then ask yourself whether you can stay with it that long and still find it rewarding. I used to enjoy the challenge of a full restoration. As I get older, with some limitations setting in, I am with Matt Harwood; I like refreshing the older restorations into good cruise-in, tour, or “second junior” cars.

Pole barn. Keep fumes, overspray, fumes, whatever from contaminating your garage, and creeping into your home.

I am having a similar issue on my ‘48 Chrysler. Did you ever find the solution?

The Rambler may be the first American car officially described as a “compact” by the manufacturer. Thus while Nash may not have been the first to have a smaller car, they may have been the first to use that particular term.