Max BURKE

G,day Huppers. A few years ago Edgar broke a crankshaft I think it was at the front pin. He had several cast in a foundry in Castlemain Vic from nodular iron. He had plans to have them made a little heavier but for reasons not known to me was unable to have that done.. He put one of his spare engines into the car in the meanwhile as the job took perhaps ten years. The main thing to remember when fitting the new crank is to be sure to line bore the main bearings or at least check the alignment with a length of ground bar. It is my belief that Hup 20 cranks break because of missallignment especially when the diaphragm is not a dowell fit in the crankcase. Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia

G,day Karl Not clear if you are using gasket rings on the inlet manifold to block joint or are relying on your new copper locating rings. We have Klinger 1000 rings in our Hups but I,v been told that the rings for Ford T are the answer and readily available . Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia

G,day Huppers. Karl make sure that the air valve is not sucking open when you are cranking. If you spray a pool of thin oil, DWF will do and let it lie above the air valve, it should stay there when cranking but should open when the engine revs reach just above idle. It might be a starting point to be sure the plug is in the bottom of the manifold for cold weather running .This will make sure that all the air at cranking speed is coming the long way round off the exhaust manifold and although there will be no heat there may be a slight choking affect. The main jet needle open one and one half turns should give you a starting point and you can trim your settings when you have it running and double check that the locating rings in the inlet manifold are allowing a pressure seal on the gasket , but the most likely demon is the air valve demon as unless the valve is airtight when cranking you will run hotter than the Hup. Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia

G,day Huppers. At the money methinks this car will sell quickly. The radiator is a mystery to me as, if it is the steel shell painted, where are the three protruding studs from shell to fit on the steel apron, which is missing and is physically different to the brass type which fits between the bottom tank and the x member without the three mounting studs. No engine tray visable and arn,t the mudguards too wide for 1910? Fan cover oil deflector is not fitted or missing. Seems to have parts from B and C I wonder what is its history beyond its restorer? Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia

G,day Huppers. Looks like a faithful restoration for top money. Hup 20 in Australia bring about $ A 35 ooo. for the best ones. Only points that detract from this example winning a gold star might be the later three bow top , should be four bows in 1910 and the missing apron that fits under the bottom radiator tank and hangs down hiding the steering box . Also the deflector over the fan is missing otherwise looks authentic to me. What say you Edgar? Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia

G,day Andy. Just looking at your new wheels ,they would seem to me to be Kelsey type as used on Dodge cars to 1924. They, the rims, can be produced in Christchurch NZ or in Kingaroy Qld Australia to your order. Because of the price and risky quality of beaded edge tyres down here in the 1960s many veteran cars were converted to Kelsey SS and 500 x 24 inch rims were used from Dodge cars which at the time were in abundance. Both of Micks Chalmers cars were done using this size. The earlier Dodge here used 25 inch. Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia

G,dayto all. When I saw the first photo of the Chalmers with the Barnet Glass tyres I reckond that it was the raceabout that my friend Mick Bendich restored about forty some years ago but I can see that it is not. Micks car had mudguards and a monocle bug catcher and I believe that when he sold it it went to Singapore or mabe Japan. Anyhow Mick has a touring car of the same model that he uses regularly with the veteran car club in Australia. He fires it only on the lh spark plugs as he has never been able to find the original type magneto to fire both plugs. He also races a Morgan and rides his 1914 King Dick motorcycle. Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia

G,day to all. Yes, I have Bills excellent book ( No 40 ) but when using it as a reference we must remember that the images are the work of a graphic artist and not photographs. I suggested to Bill that he follow up with another book of actual photographs from his vast collection but he summed up the situation in the fact that he has already had too many birthdays. When we ran our Hundred years of Hupp rally we tried to get Crawford to bring out the round the world Hupp 20 as they were talking of staging a reinactment in Australia of that section. Unfortunately our Hupp group have no wealth as a group and as Crawford required us to sponsor them their participation did not happen. Jim Ward was our connection with Crawford. I recommend his book "Three Men In A Hupp", You probably have it! Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia.

G,day Huppers. Interesting comment Hupp 36. In Australia only the 1912 model 32 had the one piece windscreen. Both of our 1913 touring cars have two piece on which the bottom pane is fixed and the complete frame hinges and lies flat over the petrol filler .With the frame vertical the top pane can be turned right over when the top is raised so the air can be directed down onto our lap. There are at least two types of hinge assembly used on them but although perhaps a dozen are on the road down here none of the 1913 production are fitted with the single pane type. There are no known examples of closed cars in model 32 neither coupe nor sedan in Australia , Are any known to you ? We have been fortunate to have run seventeen Hupp Rallys in Australia and the next will be run in 2016 usually some folk from your part of the world attend and we have no trouble in finding rides for them. This time our family will be the organisers and we would all like to have you visit. Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Austral;ia

G,day Huppers. Methinks the one driven in has a one piece windscreen, 1912, What say you? Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia

G,day Huppers. Yes the Hup 32 is a very able touring car so long as they are not hurried. They will tour all day at 60 klm per hour and will do short bursts of 80 klm but sustained speed make them sick and shake everything loose so that every morning tightening up is required. Worst feature is heavy steering even with up to an inch and a half out of the pitman arm. The 1 inch dia drive shaft is made in three pieces and the larger end sections were welded together by spinning them together under pressure until they got hot enough to melt . Hup wern't too fussy about them being in line as the Hyatt flexible roller bearing on the pinion end took care of the run out ,as much as 150 thou in some cases. When restorers replaced these flexible rollers with deep grove ball or Timken taper it took out the slack and the tailshaft broke at the pinion enlarged section if not sooner then later. there is no warning. Another annoying feature is that the front cross member and sump extension will crack through in the area of the crank dog. Removing the magneto without due care means losing the valve timing on non electric models. We have two of them, both 1913 and son John and his family have often done 500 klm days returning from interstate rallys and yes ,the hand control rods do go through the gas tank. Ours have 25 inch wheels running 880 x 120 tyres. Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia

g,day huppers. Unfortuneatly when whosomever drew up this engine they put the breathers on the wrong side of the crankcase where the rotation of the crank throws the oil up the breathers. Davids pot scourers shoved down the tubes will work . A good idea is to put a split pin or roll pin below the gauze to slow its migration into the crankcase. Unfortunately this makes oil top up a slower task. When these engines were used in the Little and Whiting the breathers were improved. The front main has an oil collector groove or labarinth with an oil drain at the bottom through to the bearing back and a further drain hole along the bearing to let the oil run back into the crankcase. Crankcase pressure tends to shove oil backwards up the drain groove and out behind the flywheel. David your observation that the flywheel cover baffle cleverly catches the oil and drops it to the engine tray from where it runs to the ground in one main pool making it easier to catch for our good host at the motel who are often not pleased by oil on the clean axess. Interesting that Little made the camshaft gear removable without melting out the bearings. As to the cam gear mesh, with the magneto drawn aside the backlash can be felt by hand. Check it in four places. Never use cork in the cam box gasket as it continues to compress each time the cap screws are tightened. Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia

Last Saturday, On the way to our breakfast run and while climbing a hill the Buick D24 roadster came to a stop. JB on his own believed he would soon solve the problem and sent his son Mat and his mother on to the gathering about ten miles distant. They in the D45. John found that the engine would only run with the slow speed needle closed right off and black smoke at that, but upon opening the throttle the engine would choke up and stop. He found the vac tank to be operating ok, No raw fuel to the manifold and on removing the carby bowl cover the level was as it should be .As the continual trying to get it to run and off the road soon had the battery flat, Help was called and the glorious D24 taken home on our trailer. So what went wrong. Perhaps you have worked out that the High Speed Jet had disappeared from its place hidden behind the air valve and as the air valve opened the high speed jet was now the size of the discharge pipe. In a emergency the end of the tube might have been squeezed together or a piece of wire jambed down to restrict the opening of the tube to simulate the missing jet. At home a replacement jet was fitted and all is well with the MARVAL carburettor again. Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia

G,day Huppers David, when we got our 20 touring it had a muffler box that may have been original. Two cast iron end plates and a outer black iron tube with a smaller tube inside. Between these casings was tightly compressed a layer of soft asbestos about one eighth in thick, rolled in and the casings joined in a tinman,s clasp joint. I thought the asbestos insulator may have been to cause the inside of the muffler to run hot enough to burn out the soot. What think you? By the way the same muffler box is on the car now. Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia

G,day to all. Sorry you blokes but the crankshaft end float is taken up by the machining of the centre main. Six thou is ideal but some will adjust this by driving the front main towards the centre main and relocking. The clutch body (the rear main) must not be able to go forward when declutching to contact the small timing gear as this will forward thrust the crankshaft. When the clutch thrust is fully taken up between the clutch body and the back of the crankcase then at least ten thou or pref. a little more is needed to allow for the wear on the fibre disc. Use proper fibre here of the material used to make fibre timing gears not red fibre (compressed paper) If the crankshaft to clutch joint cannot slide because it is installed 180 deg out declutching may push the crank forward and the run out will eventually break the shaft. Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia

G,day Steve. First up subscribe to Australian and New Zealand Hupmobile Register. You will be pleased that you did. Next put your recent purchase away as a parts supply and buy a restored example that you can drive now. A usable vehicle is going to cost less than you are going to spend on the bitsa. Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia

G,day Huppers The Hupp rally held each second year in Australia is now over. This one was the seventeenth and was held in October in Ballarat, rural Victoria. Attending were 2x mod 20, 1x mod 32, 2 x mod R, 13 x mod A, 1 x 1926 mod E, 2 x 1929 mod M 2 x 1929 mod ? cabriolet. 2x 1930 mod S, 4 x 1934/5 mod K and one 1938 mod E. Another 19 26 mod A coupe caught fire and burned the front ,melting the dash when the vac tank surcharged spraying the area with gasoline which ignited. It had come over from Tasmania and was driving to the event. Perhaps the gas tank vent blocked and caused the expansion. The vehicle is insured and the occupants were not harmed. Eight Hupp families attended as Swaggies without thier cars. Our regular New Zealanders and Americans were again in attendance. Next Hupp National will be in Singleton NSW in 2016 and the organisers are the Burke family Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia

G,day again. I was having another squint at the pictures . Its hard to pick but isn't the bell on the front of the torque tube the later type with screwed pre load adjustment . If so then 1911 might be a good guess. This would make the dashboard top and the sidelight brackets and the mounting of them correct? Are those headlamps electric? Bill Cuthbert always said that The parts were not always fitted in the order that they came from suppliers making improvements staggered all over the calendar. Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia

G,day to all Huppers. Well done Edgar. Were you too polite to mention that the top bows are the latest type and one bow short of the earlier example. Also that the number on the engine flange is not the car number that would have been on the missing dash plate That number is on the gearbox cross member on the LHS . Its under the floor board on the top corner of the X member. People that cant find it stamp the dash plate with the more easy found engine number and argue that both numbers are the same the better to fool a next generation custodian. Hey Edgar arn,t the nuts on the sliders the later type as well? For those people not using the throttle stop screw ,how are you setting the idle speed. Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia.

G,day to all . Methinks there is a handful of shims missing from the cam box and perhaps the magneto gear has negative backlash. Do you think the steering adaption is Ford. From the immaculate cleanliness I doubt it has been driven yet . Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia

G,day Kim .Perhaps if you ring Ron Osborne in Gore on 032080724, Ron may be able to help. Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia.

G,day Karl. I looked at the parts and wondered were the rest of the car went. Perhaps it will turn up in little pieces. Max Burke Nulkaba2325 Australia.

G,day Huppers. Ken about ten years ago Ken Kaufman sent me a list of twenty or so trade marks that appear on components used in the Hup 20 engine gearbox unit. They also appear on various drop forgings. On the list are the owners of the marks . I think that I gave Edgar a copy, I hope so as I have placed mine in a safe place not known to me just now. By the way Ken, often the gears were date stamped but not every time and for what reason who knows? Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia

G,day Huppers. Yesterday I had a letter from Mr Ray Haka . Ray seeks a cluster gear and also the brass fuel tap that screws to the gas tank. His car is a Hup 32 Touring Sedan. Wether Ray means a sedan car or an all weather touring car I don't know but either are not known in Australia, at least not to me. In any case the cluster he can have made and asks do any other Huppers need one, the better to keep the price affordable. Contact Ray at rjhaka@aol.com or on 810-406-3738 He lives at 7837 Partridge Hill Drive, Brighton , Michigan 48116.Can you help Ray? Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia

G.day Huppers. Andrew the boss on the crankcase that the first Pbi disc runs against needs to be flat and the face be at rt angle to the axis of the crankshaft. It is common for this boss to be worn away . In your second picture it looks to me that this boss needs facing off. As mentioned earlier I set our crankcases up in the lathe and faced them off. then to prevent the bronze plate running against this boss I secured it to the crankcase with 3 of 3/16 th countersunk head screws . I secured the other bronze plate to the clutch so that the piece in the middle, I think I used stainless steel, has no alternative but do the work it was intended to do. Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia