Max BURKE

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About Max BURKE

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  • Birthday 09/25/1939

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  1. G,day Huppers. On our 1911 model D the muffler had an inner and an outer skin tightly rolled together with a sheet of soft asbestos between the layers There were baffles inside. I went to the shop that refurbish aluminium fire extingushers and from the scrap heap selected a discarded thick wall body. With a small adjustment in the lathe it fitted the original ends. No baffles and guaranteed for life! Max BURKE Nulkaba 2325 Australia
  2. G,day to Huppers, The letter H was the letter id for the Hup 32 from 1912 to 1915. Hup recycled the letter designations so it would have reappeared in the 1930s. For the 32 a suffix letter after the H identified the body style.. Max BURKE Nulkaba 2325 Australia
  3. G,day Listers and SIMON Yes Hup 20s do dance across the road on pot holes or rough patched tar This is quite standard for them The long chassis models were fitted with Gabriel shock absorbers on the front only. The degree of damping is adjustable by tightening the band. They do nothing for sideways jonce but are effective on dips Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia
  4. G,day Listers. Simon did your 20 come out of Canberra ? The numbers that you quote don't make sense to me. can I ask if your car has a round front axle and a cone clutch. if so its a model A of 09 if not may be a mod B of 1909. Some years ago John Burke and Edgar Bowen compiled a list of all of the Hup 20 that they could find in Australia. Edgar contacted every owner that responded and updated JBs list. However upon EBs demise the list appears lost Don't forget the national Hup rally next year in Wagga Wagga. Details in our "REGISTER" By the way Edgar could find no real 09 model A in Australia and only doubtful 09 model B. Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia.
  5. Max BURKE

    1913 Hupp 32

    G,day Listers. Gossjh Unless you have your clutch brake adjusted to completely stop the input shaft of the gearbox you will never get it into low gear from standstill without a crunch when cold and probably not even when hot. When adjusted push the pedal to the stop or the floor whichever comes first with the engine at low idle. Be sure the hand throttle is set back to slow idle from the start position, let the engine warm a little from cold and any gear will engage smooth as butter. After engaging gear from standstill the clutch brake is not needed and should not be used when driving. The adjustment is fully explained in the owners handbook of which reprints are available. and it will need trimming from time to time When you are used to it on tour you probably wont use the clutch after you set off at least not in open country. My grandson regularly drives our 32 without trouble. Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia
  6. G,day listers. Bob perhaps you know there are at least three types of headlamp gimbals on Hup 20 First type are low and clamp to front dumb irons with U bolts, probably phase out early 1910 Model A and early B. Then comes intermediate height two bolt per side vertically through the dumb iron phased out mid year 1911 used later B and C. Finally same type but higher used mid 1911 on to the end of mod 20 Allowing there will be a short period of overlap this is about the types used and when. Don't despair you can fabricate a pair and the link rod and if you are fussy you wont be able to tell them from original. Both of our 1911 have the intermediate height and are both mid 1911 mod C and D. Good luck with your search! Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia
  7. G,day Simon. Couple of questions first. First up is this the car recently listed in Sydney either way who owned it and who restored it. ? Edgar Bowen and John Burke compiled a list of all known Hup 20 existing in Australia and Edgar contacted and spoke to every owner that he could find. Unfortunately upon Edgars death comparitivly recently the list has disappeared. They concluded there are NO Known REAL Hup 20 of 1909 in Australia. There are some that would seem to have been redated.A couple of cars have been imported since the list was made. The shiping list of cars brought in by Fizakerlys is available Through the Aust and newZealand Hupmobile Register It lists Dates and Numbers. I strongly recommend you subscribe to it. Find it on Google My opinion only. The Car Number is Never the same as the chassis number which is on top of the second X member on the LH Side People restamped repro dash plates with the engine no because they could not find the chassis number on top of the X member.The chassis number anywhere else was not stamped by Hupmobile. The national Hup Rally was recently held in Tasmania and occurs in a different location every 2 years Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 NSW Australia
  8. G,day to all. More Essex confusion under the Moonlight, Nothing is clear! Our copy of Horseless Age of May 1918 arrived yesterdays mail . Why? Because there is therein a single page article on the Essex Four being sold at that time in the USA. That's right the article is from May 1918. Is there a reliable first sales date on the home market? There are a couple of illustrations of the engine that clearly show the spark plugs on the carburettor side of the head.We do have an original Essex Service Instruction Manual for Essex owners and Mechanics. Unfortunately there is no publication Date on this Book. All of the engine photos therin show the spark plugs on the EXHAUST side of the engine,which is where they are placed on the engine of our Essex BUT we do have another engine with the spark plugs on the carburettor side. Question ?. How are the plugs shown in the magazine pictures of MAY 1918 . Were a batch of the first engines tried with plugs on inlet side then for general production switched to exhaust side and then at a later production date changed back to Inlet side of the head. The master parts book for our 1916 Dodge gives the date that changes were introduced and the car numbers also the run out of the obsolete design . Does the Essex parts book carry this info. Are Parts Book or copy of same available for Essex Model A. Max BURKE Nulkaba 2325 Austalia
  9. G,day to all. Jon, Although I have tried to register with HET I have had no joy with getting signed in . Last try HET decided my Email and my name is incorrect After about 8 tries I gave up. You mention that the body on our Essex is a B body rather than an A. What determines this and how do they differ. This job was probably commissioned by Dalgettys the importer. it bears their tag on the dash. .From the top of the radiator cowl right through to the back body corner there is a chamfer of say 45 degrees about 2 1/2 inches width through the bonnet hood and the top of the doors to the back corner. The corner of the body at the back has no curve, rather a knife edge I have seen this style on another Essex A in Australia it is also shown in my book of instructions The doors open to the front both front and back. Max BURKE. Nulkaba 2325 Australia
  10. G,day to all . Jon , I had never worked on an Essex Four prior to buying this one. What is the difference A to B type of body? This one has a chamfer through the bonnet and top of the doors. As a small boy our family had a Gutless Wonder of 1925. During the war years my father sold most of it to folk for spare parts. There were two 25 Essex came to our workshop when I was an apprentice. We dragged one in with No6 rod bearing nocking. The boss poured a new bearing and I bored it in the lathe and we 2 lads assembled the engine and drove the car round in the back paddock.Soon it nocked out No 6 rod bearing. When we told our master he asked if we had primed the troughs. of course we did not know what this was about not being aware that the troughs filled slowly from the front. He sent us with the sump over the road to the fish shop and had the troughs poured full of fat which we then cooled with cold water till the fat set. We put the sump up with a couple of screws and turned over the motor and lo and behold there were the proof marks of the dippers not doing their work. The boss had us cut them all off and fit a set of scoops as used on Chev Blitz . We filled all the troughs before we put up the sump. No more trouble Hudson Essex tricks I have learned. Do not adjust the brakes with the car on the jack. On F Head Hudson do not take of the cylinder head because of water in the sump before you clean the blocked water pump gland drain hole. The leaked water will go into the timing case along the shaft with the motor running. After putting Hudsonite in the clutch turn the flywheel until the plug is at 3 oclock and let the excess run out. On Electric Hand gear shift troubles see that the generator is keeping the battery voltage over 6 1/2to 7 volts with engine running first. When our seller contacted the Hudson Essex Club he was told Essex never made a four cylinder car. No one in that group was even interested in looking at it. We hope to get the original engine cylinder block which has been replaced because of cracked valve seats perhaps 35 years ago. Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia
  11. G,day to all. Thanks to the folk that offered advise. We did go ahead and buy the vehicle last Saturday. It was garaged about 15 minutes away. Since its restoration about 30 years ago the engine was run only once and the car driven about one mile probably due to the fitting of 20 inch wheels.We collected the original 24 inch wire wheels with the car. The owner was well known to me and died about two years past only a couple of weeks after he had asked me to advertise the Essex for him Although . he had asked me to find a buyer for the Essex I could find no person interested in even looking at it. As the wife of the owner is thinking of taking up residence in a retirement village soon, the family saw the need to move the Essex to new owners. We made an offer and as no other offers were forthcoming we bought the car The important numbers are Car No 35 261 Engine number 11991 Casting No 17 1 . Max Burke Nulkaba NSW Australia
  12. G,Day to all We need to identify a RHD export Essex touring as to its manufacture date. We need reliable ID Car No and Engine No for the 1918 calendar year I Thank You. Max BURKE Nulkaba NSW Australia
  13. G,day Huppers. David Don' t forget to give us the all important engine and car or chassis numbers for our records.Think back to the knowledge you had when you were younger David. Brass Hup radiators in which the tanks and side plates are part of the assembly did not attach the front apron to the bottom tank with the three cap nuts that were used to fix the apron to the loose steel shell of the next type. The Brass units fixed the apron which is slightly less deep by riveting it to the X member on which the radiator sits and which also is the mounting for the steering box .In Australia it seems folk painted the brass radiator with flat black paint to encourage heat transfer but more likely to save time polishing. Have you motored down the road in the Hup as yet? Keep us posted please David. Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia
  14. G,day Huppers Andrew if you still have the cam plate off pour in 500cc of oil into each end and note where it rises to on the stand pipes. We have found that standpipes higher than 5/8 inch rise promote the exterior oiling system. Some earlier production engines were not machined for rod clearance so presume that they just took a bit more oil By the way your conrods are a different pattern to those in our engines. There are a series of small stamped trade marks on each piece to identify who supplied them. Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia
  15. G,day Huppers. Good find David Please let us have the Engine and chassis numbers for our Records. Only item I see missing is the apron below the bottom radiator tank and the chassis X member. Perhaps it has the accessory manifold to mount the replacement carb. I would be giving it a good drive about before committing to search for a Breeze! Perhaps four tyres first before straying far from home. Max BURKE Nulkaba 2325 Australia