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About Max BURKE

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  • Birthday 09/25/1939

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  1. G,day to all. The roadster pictured is a Hup K. It has the windscreen posts that mount thru the side of the scuttle and no valance below the radiator. Battery box on LH running board ,The touring car is a Hup N There are many mechanical differences. The body panels look K by the battery box recess in the running board LHS Max BURKE Nulkaba 2325 Australia
  2. G,day Huppers. On our 1911 model D the muffler had an inner and an outer skin tightly rolled together with a sheet of soft asbestos between the layers There were baffles inside. I went to the shop that refurbish aluminium fire extingushers and from the scrap heap selected a discarded thick wall body. With a small adjustment in the lathe it fitted the original ends. No baffles and guaranteed for life! Max BURKE Nulkaba 2325 Australia
  3. G,day to Huppers, The letter H was the letter id for the Hup 32 from 1912 to 1915. Hup recycled the letter designations so it would have reappeared in the 1930s. For the 32 a suffix letter after the H identified the body style.. Max BURKE Nulkaba 2325 Australia
  4. G,day Listers and SIMON Yes Hup 20s do dance across the road on pot holes or rough patched tar This is quite standard for them The long chassis models were fitted with Gabriel shock absorbers on the front only. The degree of damping is adjustable by tightening the band. They do nothing for sideways jonce but are effective on dips Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia
  5. G,day Listers. Simon did your 20 come out of Canberra ? The numbers that you quote don't make sense to me. can I ask if your car has a round front axle and a cone clutch. if so its a model A of 09 if not may be a mod B of 1909. Some years ago John Burke and Edgar Bowen compiled a list of all of the Hup 20 that they could find in Australia. Edgar contacted every owner that responded and updated JBs list. However upon EBs demise the list appears lost Don't forget the national Hup rally next year in Wagga Wagga. Details in our "REGISTER" By the way Edgar could find no real 09 model A in Australi
  6. G,day Listers. Gossjh Unless you have your clutch brake adjusted to completely stop the input shaft of the gearbox you will never get it into low gear from standstill without a crunch when cold and probably not even when hot. When adjusted push the pedal to the stop or the floor whichever comes first with the engine at low idle. Be sure the hand throttle is set back to slow idle from the start position, let the engine warm a little from cold and any gear will engage smooth as butter. After engaging gear from standstill the clutch brake is not needed and should not be used when driving. The a
  7. G,day listers. Bob perhaps you know there are at least three types of headlamp gimbals on Hup 20 First type are low and clamp to front dumb irons with U bolts, probably phase out early 1910 Model A and early B. Then comes intermediate height two bolt per side vertically through the dumb iron phased out mid year 1911 used later B and C. Finally same type but higher used mid 1911 on to the end of mod 20 Allowing there will be a short period of overlap this is about the types used and when. Don't despair you can fabricate a pair and the link rod and if you are fussy you wont be able to tell the
  8. G,day Simon. Couple of questions first. First up is this the car recently listed in Sydney either way who owned it and who restored it. ? Edgar Bowen and John Burke compiled a list of all known Hup 20 existing in Australia and Edgar contacted and spoke to every owner that he could find. Unfortunately upon Edgars death comparitivly recently the list has disappeared. They concluded there are NO Known REAL Hup 20 of 1909 in Australia. There are some that would seem to have been redated.A couple of cars have been imported since the list was made. The shiping list of cars brought in by Fizakerlys
  9. G,day to all. More Essex confusion under the Moonlight, Nothing is clear! Our copy of Horseless Age of May 1918 arrived yesterdays mail . Why? Because there is therein a single page article on the Essex Four being sold at that time in the USA. That's right the article is from May 1918. Is there a reliable first sales date on the home market? There are a couple of illustrations of the engine that clearly show the spark plugs on the carburettor side of the head.We do have an original Essex Service Instruction Manual for Essex owners and Mechanics. Unfortunately there is no publication Date on th
  10. G,day to all. Jon, Although I have tried to register with HET I have had no joy with getting signed in . Last try HET decided my Email and my name is incorrect After about 8 tries I gave up. You mention that the body on our Essex is a B body rather than an A. What determines this and how do they differ. This job was probably commissioned by Dalgettys the importer. it bears their tag on the dash. .From the top of the radiator cowl right through to the back body corner there is a chamfer of say 45 degrees about 2 1/2 inches width through the bonnet hood and the top of the doors to the back corn
  11. G,day to all . Jon , I had never worked on an Essex Four prior to buying this one. What is the difference A to B type of body? This one has a chamfer through the bonnet and top of the doors. As a small boy our family had a Gutless Wonder of 1925. During the war years my father sold most of it to folk for spare parts. There were two 25 Essex came to our workshop when I was an apprentice. We dragged one in with No6 rod bearing nocking. The boss poured a new bearing and I bored it in the lathe and we 2 lads assembled the engine and drove the car round in the back paddock.Soon it nocked out N
  12. G,day to all. Thanks to the folk that offered advise. We did go ahead and buy the vehicle last Saturday. It was garaged about 15 minutes away. Since its restoration about 30 years ago the engine was run only once and the car driven about one mile probably due to the fitting of 20 inch wheels.We collected the original 24 inch wire wheels with the car. The owner was well known to me and died about two years past only a couple of weeks after he had asked me to advertise the Essex for him Although . he had asked me to find a buyer for the Essex I could find no person interested in even looking
  13. G,Day to all We need to identify a RHD export Essex touring as to its manufacture date. We need reliable ID Car No and Engine No for the 1918 calendar year I Thank You. Max BURKE Nulkaba NSW Australia
  14. G,day Huppers. David Don' t forget to give us the all important engine and car or chassis numbers for our records.Think back to the knowledge you had when you were younger David. Brass Hup radiators in which the tanks and side plates are part of the assembly did not attach the front apron to the bottom tank with the three cap nuts that were used to fix the apron to the loose steel shell of the next type. The Brass units fixed the apron which is slightly less deep by riveting it to the X member on which the radiator sits and which also is the mounting for the steering box .In Australia i
  15. G,day Huppers Andrew if you still have the cam plate off pour in 500cc of oil into each end and note where it rises to on the stand pipes. We have found that standpipes higher than 5/8 inch rise promote the exterior oiling system. Some earlier production engines were not machined for rod clearance so presume that they just took a bit more oil By the way your conrods are a different pattern to those in our engines. There are a series of small stamped trade marks on each piece to identify who supplied them. Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia
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