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Everything posted by Max BURKE

  1. G,day to all. The roadster pictured is a Hup K. It has the windscreen posts that mount thru the side of the scuttle and no valance below the radiator. Battery box on LH running board ,The touring car is a Hup N There are many mechanical differences. The body panels look K by the battery box recess in the running board LHS Max BURKE Nulkaba 2325 Australia
  2. G,day Huppers. On our 1911 model D the muffler had an inner and an outer skin tightly rolled together with a sheet of soft asbestos between the layers There were baffles inside. I went to the shop that refurbish aluminium fire extingushers and from the scrap heap selected a discarded thick wall body. With a small adjustment in the lathe it fitted the original ends. No baffles and guaranteed for life! Max BURKE Nulkaba 2325 Australia
  3. G,day to Huppers, The letter H was the letter id for the Hup 32 from 1912 to 1915. Hup recycled the letter designations so it would have reappeared in the 1930s. For the 32 a suffix letter after the H identified the body style.. Max BURKE Nulkaba 2325 Australia
  4. G,day Listers and SIMON Yes Hup 20s do dance across the road on pot holes or rough patched tar This is quite standard for them The long chassis models were fitted with Gabriel shock absorbers on the front only. The degree of damping is adjustable by tightening the band. They do nothing for sideways jonce but are effective on dips Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia
  5. G,day Listers. Simon did your 20 come out of Canberra ? The numbers that you quote don't make sense to me. can I ask if your car has a round front axle and a cone clutch. if so its a model A of 09 if not may be a mod B of 1909. Some years ago John Burke and Edgar Bowen compiled a list of all of the Hup 20 that they could find in Australia. Edgar contacted every owner that responded and updated JBs list. However upon EBs demise the list appears lost Don't forget the national Hup rally next year in Wagga Wagga. Details in our "REGISTER" By the way Edgar could find no real 09 model A in Australia and only doubtful 09 model B. Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia.
  6. G,day Listers. Gossjh Unless you have your clutch brake adjusted to completely stop the input shaft of the gearbox you will never get it into low gear from standstill without a crunch when cold and probably not even when hot. When adjusted push the pedal to the stop or the floor whichever comes first with the engine at low idle. Be sure the hand throttle is set back to slow idle from the start position, let the engine warm a little from cold and any gear will engage smooth as butter. After engaging gear from standstill the clutch brake is not needed and should not be used when driving. The adjustment is fully explained in the owners handbook of which reprints are available. and it will need trimming from time to time When you are used to it on tour you probably wont use the clutch after you set off at least not in open country. My grandson regularly drives our 32 without trouble. Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia
  7. G,day listers. Bob perhaps you know there are at least three types of headlamp gimbals on Hup 20 First type are low and clamp to front dumb irons with U bolts, probably phase out early 1910 Model A and early B. Then comes intermediate height two bolt per side vertically through the dumb iron phased out mid year 1911 used later B and C. Finally same type but higher used mid 1911 on to the end of mod 20 Allowing there will be a short period of overlap this is about the types used and when. Don't despair you can fabricate a pair and the link rod and if you are fussy you wont be able to tell them from original. Both of our 1911 have the intermediate height and are both mid 1911 mod C and D. Good luck with your search! Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia
  8. G,day Simon. Couple of questions first. First up is this the car recently listed in Sydney either way who owned it and who restored it. ? Edgar Bowen and John Burke compiled a list of all known Hup 20 existing in Australia and Edgar contacted and spoke to every owner that he could find. Unfortunately upon Edgars death comparitivly recently the list has disappeared. They concluded there are NO Known REAL Hup 20 of 1909 in Australia. There are some that would seem to have been redated.A couple of cars have been imported since the list was made. The shiping list of cars brought in by Fizakerlys is available Through the Aust and newZealand Hupmobile Register It lists Dates and Numbers. I strongly recommend you subscribe to it. Find it on Google My opinion only. The Car Number is Never the same as the chassis number which is on top of the second X member on the LH Side People restamped repro dash plates with the engine no because they could not find the chassis number on top of the X member.The chassis number anywhere else was not stamped by Hupmobile. The national Hup Rally was recently held in Tasmania and occurs in a different location every 2 years Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 NSW Australia
  9. G,day to all. More Essex confusion under the Moonlight, Nothing is clear! Our copy of Horseless Age of May 1918 arrived yesterdays mail . Why? Because there is therein a single page article on the Essex Four being sold at that time in the USA. That's right the article is from May 1918. Is there a reliable first sales date on the home market? There are a couple of illustrations of the engine that clearly show the spark plugs on the carburettor side of the head.We do have an original Essex Service Instruction Manual for Essex owners and Mechanics. Unfortunately there is no publication Date on this Book. All of the engine photos therin show the spark plugs on the EXHAUST side of the engine,which is where they are placed on the engine of our Essex BUT we do have another engine with the spark plugs on the carburettor side. Question ?. How are the plugs shown in the magazine pictures of MAY 1918 . Were a batch of the first engines tried with plugs on inlet side then for general production switched to exhaust side and then at a later production date changed back to Inlet side of the head. The master parts book for our 1916 Dodge gives the date that changes were introduced and the car numbers also the run out of the obsolete design . Does the Essex parts book carry this info. Are Parts Book or copy of same available for Essex Model A. Max BURKE Nulkaba 2325 Austalia
  10. G,day to all. Jon, Although I have tried to register with HET I have had no joy with getting signed in . Last try HET decided my Email and my name is incorrect After about 8 tries I gave up. You mention that the body on our Essex is a B body rather than an A. What determines this and how do they differ. This job was probably commissioned by Dalgettys the importer. it bears their tag on the dash. .From the top of the radiator cowl right through to the back body corner there is a chamfer of say 45 degrees about 2 1/2 inches width through the bonnet hood and the top of the doors to the back corner. The corner of the body at the back has no curve, rather a knife edge I have seen this style on another Essex A in Australia it is also shown in my book of instructions The doors open to the front both front and back. Max BURKE. Nulkaba 2325 Australia
  11. G,day to all . Jon , I had never worked on an Essex Four prior to buying this one. What is the difference A to B type of body? This one has a chamfer through the bonnet and top of the doors. As a small boy our family had a Gutless Wonder of 1925. During the war years my father sold most of it to folk for spare parts. There were two 25 Essex came to our workshop when I was an apprentice. We dragged one in with No6 rod bearing nocking. The boss poured a new bearing and I bored it in the lathe and we 2 lads assembled the engine and drove the car round in the back paddock.Soon it nocked out No 6 rod bearing. When we told our master he asked if we had primed the troughs. of course we did not know what this was about not being aware that the troughs filled slowly from the front. He sent us with the sump over the road to the fish shop and had the troughs poured full of fat which we then cooled with cold water till the fat set. We put the sump up with a couple of screws and turned over the motor and lo and behold there were the proof marks of the dippers not doing their work. The boss had us cut them all off and fit a set of scoops as used on Chev Blitz . We filled all the troughs before we put up the sump. No more trouble Hudson Essex tricks I have learned. Do not adjust the brakes with the car on the jack. On F Head Hudson do not take of the cylinder head because of water in the sump before you clean the blocked water pump gland drain hole. The leaked water will go into the timing case along the shaft with the motor running. After putting Hudsonite in the clutch turn the flywheel until the plug is at 3 oclock and let the excess run out. On Electric Hand gear shift troubles see that the generator is keeping the battery voltage over 6 1/2to 7 volts with engine running first. When our seller contacted the Hudson Essex Club he was told Essex never made a four cylinder car. No one in that group was even interested in looking at it. We hope to get the original engine cylinder block which has been replaced because of cracked valve seats perhaps 35 years ago. Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia
  12. G,day to all. Thanks to the folk that offered advise. We did go ahead and buy the vehicle last Saturday. It was garaged about 15 minutes away. Since its restoration about 30 years ago the engine was run only once and the car driven about one mile probably due to the fitting of 20 inch wheels.We collected the original 24 inch wire wheels with the car. The owner was well known to me and died about two years past only a couple of weeks after he had asked me to advertise the Essex for him Although . he had asked me to find a buyer for the Essex I could find no person interested in even looking at it. As the wife of the owner is thinking of taking up residence in a retirement village soon, the family saw the need to move the Essex to new owners. We made an offer and as no other offers were forthcoming we bought the car The important numbers are Car No 35 261 Engine number 11991 Casting No 17 1 . Max Burke Nulkaba NSW Australia
  13. G,Day to all We need to identify a RHD export Essex touring as to its manufacture date. We need reliable ID Car No and Engine No for the 1918 calendar year I Thank You. Max BURKE Nulkaba NSW Australia
  14. G,day Huppers. David Don' t forget to give us the all important engine and car or chassis numbers for our records.Think back to the knowledge you had when you were younger David. Brass Hup radiators in which the tanks and side plates are part of the assembly did not attach the front apron to the bottom tank with the three cap nuts that were used to fix the apron to the loose steel shell of the next type. The Brass units fixed the apron which is slightly less deep by riveting it to the X member on which the radiator sits and which also is the mounting for the steering box .In Australia it seems folk painted the brass radiator with flat black paint to encourage heat transfer but more likely to save time polishing. Have you motored down the road in the Hup as yet? Keep us posted please David. Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia
  15. G,day Huppers Andrew if you still have the cam plate off pour in 500cc of oil into each end and note where it rises to on the stand pipes. We have found that standpipes higher than 5/8 inch rise promote the exterior oiling system. Some earlier production engines were not machined for rod clearance so presume that they just took a bit more oil By the way your conrods are a different pattern to those in our engines. There are a series of small stamped trade marks on each piece to identify who supplied them. Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia
  16. G,day Huppers. Good find David Please let us have the Engine and chassis numbers for our Records. Only item I see missing is the apron below the bottom radiator tank and the chassis X member. Perhaps it has the accessory manifold to mount the replacement carb. I would be giving it a good drive about before committing to search for a Breeze! Perhaps four tyres first before straying far from home. Max BURKE Nulkaba 2325 Australia
  17. G.day Huppers. Well JB just purchased a book with pictures of of a Hup 20 roadster in the Crawford Museum since 1940. It is said to be production No 52. The pictures that illustrate the story are quite clear. The back suspension of this car has full elliptical rear springs! Ok the bolt that takes the sliders is there doing nothing but there are no sliders because there is no transverse spring. There is a tension bolt from side to side to hold the rear axle housings in line like a Weston Mott set up but there seems no point in having the usual cross bolt at all. I can see friction shock absorbers on the back as well as the front but they are not the type used in the front of later long chassis jobs.The front axle beam is round. The radiator has the low filler neck but it is the type with the loose steel shell and has that type front vallance held to the lower tank with 3 acorn nuts. There is no cutout switch on the dash but there is a nice vertical speedo and odometer. The gas tank is rectangular or square. . The carburettor is updrauft not the usual side mount to the manifold which has a pronounced curve. The wheels are 12 spoke and tyres look 26x3. . My question is has anyone got an early 09.Type A. Not the later type B of 09/10 with full Ellyptic rear springs.. Pictures in BCs Book from early publications show no car like this. Perhaps this is a result of the restoration done in the Museum workshops so the car could be used in the Glidden Tour of 1946? No type A Hupp are known to exist in Australia The book is Runabouts and Roadsters. isbn 0 396 06799 9 Bob Stubenrauch is the author Max BURKE Nulkaba 2325 Australia
  18. G,day Huppers. Robert ,you can make a usable spreader with a suitable length of steel tubing and two bolts to fit into the ends and using the nuts to expand the spring.. With the pressure of the spring released take out the pins from the spring eyes and lift away the spring. Then unscrew each of the oil resovoir nuts on the ends of the sliding trunnion shaft. This will allow each axle housing to be slid off the shafts after taking out the bolts. Looks like the damage to the gears is old news and happened when the torque tube came loose from the axle housing . The cracks can be welded or better still braised. All this has been played with before shown by the centre punch marks to tighten the timken cup in the torque tube. Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia
  19. G,day Robert and Huppers. Robert , you might think about releasing the top mounting of the spring, take off the torque rods and brake rods and lower down the axle assembly until you can slide back the torque tube from the gearbox. This will let you work on your bench . Yes you will need to have a spring spreader to seperate the axle housings. A FORD one will do nicely. Double check the area where the torque tube bolts to the axle housings . If there are cracks this is were they will be . You cannot take out the axles without removing the nuts holding them in the sun wheels. The planitary cross may be date stamped. You have the later type torque tube with the Hyatt bearing and a timken at the pinion end.. Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia
  20. G;day Huppers. During the above mentioned tour on the third day the temperature reached 42 degrees. Edgar didn't stay in luxury accomodation as many did, He had his tent and camp equip tied onto the Hup. On the long decent heading into Gloucester he spied some young folk cooling off in a creek. He quickly parked the Hup and stripped to his jocks and jumped in with them. Our Newcastle Group of the Veteran CC were waiting for Edgar and we went out to meet him. We spent the rest of the afternoon in Johns pool .The couple of days that Edgar spent with Joan and I brought a cool change and showers. On ringing Nan to let her know that Edgar was safe with us Nan' s advise to Joan was put the hose on him before you let him inside and pick up his clothes with a stick!. We led Edgar out of our town and on the back road to the finish in Sydney. As he left it was raining quite steadily . Guess who took a wrong turn and ran out of petrol in the harbour tunnell. You guessed it Our Man Edgar Max Burke Nulkaba 2325 Australia
  21. G,day Robert and Huppers. Lift out your floor boards and look on the top corner of the second cross member from the front, right were it joins into the left hand chassis rail. Look on the back edge and there will be the car number, This is also the chassis number and is never the same as the engine number that David describes. It is on the cross member not on the chassis rail. For comparison my touring is Car No 9499 with engine No 9630 My sons roadster is Car 9223 Engine is 9404.Both these cars arrived in Australia August / September 1911 Don,t pussy about with the worn axle tapers and keyways Have your machine shop make new axles because they will be worn where the Hyatt flex roller bearings run on the axle. Likewise Have them make new rear hubs as with the splits they will never stay tight on the new rear axles . Perhaps this is work that you can do yourself ? When you dismantle the differential you might like to replace the Hyatt bearings on the carrier with deep grove ball races. These will not require the troublesome ball or small roller thrust bearings There is also a Babbit bearing in the axle housing that bears on the shaft to reduce the oil leaking down the axles. It uses the tube rivetts as retainers. There is a change in the torque tube in early 1911 and an extra hyatt flex bearing was fitted in front of the pinion. The ball was then screwed on to the tube to give easier pinion pree load adjustment. Earlier cars had a riveted on ball but as with most export units the superseded parts were used up on units bound for far off markets. For this reason it is unreliable to use mechanical spec for accurate dating. With regard to your steering you might experiment altering the caster by making longer back shackle plates Make a few different lengths to determine which gives the best improvement This is easier than making wedges!.Max BURKE Nulkaba 2325 Australia
  22. Sadly I must inform our group of Huppers that our friend and Hupmobile enthusiast Edgar BOWEN surcommed to acute respitary problems this week . He had spent Christmas with family members in Brisbane where he was taken ill and admitted to hospital but he could not be saved. My memory is that Edgar was eighty one.We will miss his helpfull tips on Hup 20 repairs. Max BURKE Nulkaba 2325 Australia
  23. G,day to Huppers. We always take out the summer/winter plug from below the manifold when adjusting the carb because then air can be drawn in direct without coming from the ex manifold stove,Make sure the butterfly is opening on the first movement as it can go right round in the body and it can happen that the first movement is closing it before it begins to open, Reset the spindle if need be.. The main jet will work at one to one and a half turns open for a start, trim it later. The air valve spring needs to be just strong enough to keep the valve closed at cranking speed but must start to open as soon as the engine speed is just above a fast idle test it running by opening with a thin screwdriver blade, If the valve can open when at cranking speed then the engine will not start If no compromise can be reached in the valve opening at speed then a new venturi will need be made with a smaller throat. Remember small changes here make big running changes. When we got the roadster the manifold had been cut and a Holly and a Kingston four ball had been tried. We were able to revert back to Breeze as the original manifold came with the car but not the Breeze which may be from some other instalation. We made four venturie of different throat sizes before being satisfied.Max BURKE Nulkaba 2325 Australia
  24. G,Day Huppers. From the last posted picture I see a Hup model R because of the Windscreen posts and the style of the mudguards. This model ran from late in 1917 to 1925 and many updates were implemented as the model progressed. They run from R1 to R15 All in all a very good motor car and the last 4 cyl Hupp Nos R1 to R 179396. Perhaps the most common Hup suvivor. Max BURKE Nulkaba 2325 Australia
  25. G Day Huppers Sorry lads the car in the pictures is NOT a model K It is NOT a 1916 N either but it is an N of 1917 The gearbox housing and the timing case are iron and not alluminium as the earlier cars were Starting at the front the crank handle fitting is 1917 as is the Westinghouse generator and starter changed from Bijur The hot air tube seems missing from the carb . It has the revised oil header box made higher in an effort to prevent failure of no 2 and 3 rod bearings. The valve access bungs are changed for 1917 in an effort to stop detonation knock. Gear ratio is changed in the gearbox and clutch pedal pressure was made lighter. The car No is on the brass plate above the spedo and the engine number is on the crankcase extension above the generator With all this if you can insert only one finger between the generator extension and the chassis its an early N if two or more fingers its the later 1917 The next models the R reached Australia late in 1917Here the car pictured would bring up to $A 15000 and a pristine restored example $A 25 to 28 000. Max BURKE Nulkaba 2325 Australia
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