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dibarlaw

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Everything posted by dibarlaw

  1. John: I will look for our notes on the lip seals for the front cover we did. I know Hugh Leidlein has used them elswhere and can give better information.
  2. Still a 33X6 or new designation of 600X21" application for disk, wood or wire wheels. All are 21" rims. Check back on previous posts on this thread for other input.
  3. Thanks for posting your photos John! My mileage varied also. Coming to Morgantown, touring and going home. Here are a few I took. Arrival after 106 miles at about 15 mpg. Joan followed me in the new to us 2020 Envision. My precarious view from the overlook wall at the Pagoda. At the covered bridge. At Reppert's Candy. On my way home via the Lincoln Highway on the Columbia/Wrightsvile bridge across the Susquehanna River. About 13.5 Mpg on the 110 mile return trip.
  4. Grant: I believe the Master is to take 33X6 tires. Now 600X21 designation.
  5. Yes Gary when I did mine it was exactly as you had done. Except... now try it with the engine in the car and leaning over the fender!
  6. Pete: YES. Depending on relative humidity the steel disks will rust. Grease/ oil coatings on friction material can degrade the friction material/pit the metal plates and cause adhesion. A stick to partially push in the clutch pedal helps.
  7. John: Your objective is to have a completly ovehauled/rebuilt engine to be perfectly serviceable. So the separation of the block and the crankcase will be necessesary. I believe "BOB's" gets their gasket sets from Olsens.
  8. Engine photo shows a 6 cyl. Dash/steering column instrument cluster looks like a cobbelation...
  9. Mark: When John Fesser and I worked on Mr. Whiteford's 1922-45 I am sure those sills were plain like yours.
  10. Mark: The 1923 Book of Parts show sill plates that do look to be very plain. Here is what the ones on the 1925 Master are to look like. 1925 Standards had no decorative sill plates. I picked up these repros several years ago at Hershey. Notice on the original the punched holes have a raised area on top.
  11. Looks to be one of my favorites a 1923 Buick Model 54 Sport Roadster.
  12. Yes. Steamers need gasoline too, kerosene or both. Early White Steamer being fueled up.
  13. I did a local Cars and Coffee at Gear House Brewery. Many VWs as the one brewery owner has several. Another owner's wife has 2 Model As on display. A very nice 1929 Roadster and a 1930 Station wagon. A third A showed up, a 29 Pick up. Mostly an assortment custom BMWs and muscle cars. My 1925 stuck out like a sore thumb. There was minimal interest as to why I was there. But the brewery owner car people were glad I came.
  14. I see folds in the hood to indicate Packard as well as the hub cap on the rear wire wheel. This being a convertible sedan. The Packard experts can chime in about year (my guess is 1930 or 1931)/series and coach maker. Could be closed to WWII vintage photo as the tires are mismatched and the sidemount black wall spare is worn out.
  15. John: Depending on the light many assume the 1925's hood to be black. It is brewster Green. A little better contrast between the Green and the black of the black front fenders. When I redid the front clip after the engine rebuild I did the fenders in what was supposed to be JET BLACK. Compaired to the splash shields which were probably painted in DuPont DUCO or LUCITE #99 Jet Black back in the late 1960s. I sprayed the front mud pan with leftover DuPont Centari #99. I did not see the difference untill I installed them. The fenders between the splash shield and the mud pan look to be more like a dark charcoal gray.
  16. Jake: It looks like it was recommissioned back in the 80s. Driven for a while and then back into storage. Sort of like the 25 year hiatus mine took while I got around to it... The low mileage 1937-47 I test drove in Tennesee was an extreamly nice car but would take a lot to have it be a reliable tour car to replace my wrecked 1937-41. It only took me close to 35 years to get it where I always felt comfortable with driving her anywhere. I do not have many more years to invest in going thru another one..
  17. Well not over the weekend but on Wednesday the 31st. We finally moved into the 21st century with a newer Buick. Wife Joan now has a 2020 Envision. Now we have the 2 Buicks 95 years apart.
  18. Back in 1987 when I bought my Buick, the ring gear on my 102,000 mile 1937 Special 248 was well chewed up. I ordered one from "The Antique Auto Parts Cellar". I gave them all the specs and they sent me something about .250 over size on the I.D. It was a pain to get a refund at the time. I took it to a local multi generational shop. The father began as a mechanic in 1920. He took one look at it and said they used to flip these gears all the time. He put it on a set up of firebrick. Used 2 torches to even out the heat around the perimiter. Just about a red heat. Tapped it off, flipped it over, tapped with a hammer untill reset and let it cool. I came back about an hour later after they ground a bevel on the new teeth. I believe he charged me $25.00. No starter/ ring gear issues after that time. It had 113,000 miles when I sold the car after the accident.
  19. John: A few I took during our visit last year while you had the engine out.
  20. John: Sorry to see it go as I was wanting to come over the mountain and go for a ride in it once you had it roadworthy again.
  21. There are no seals. There are deflection ring grooves cut into the coupler. This is lubricated from a brass tube to keep the sump partially full. At the center of the bearing there is a notch and within there is a "dancing" oiler ring. As things wear the oil tends to seep out. Several cars I have seen including my 1925 Master someone removed the brass screw plug, installed a grease fitting and now being greased instead of oiled. I know you have a right hand drive car but the bearing and cap seem to be reversed. My 1925 Standard. My master pump that I made a new Stainless Steel shaft and new bushings for installed 3 weeks ago.
  22. The plugs for the Buick 6 up untill the detatachable head in 1924. Was a 7/8" dia X 18 thread per inch with a 1 1/8" hex. From the gasket shoulder to the electrode gap was usually 1". 1924-1928 was a 7/8" dia. X 18 Thread per inch with a 7/8" hex. Same "reach" measured from the gasket shoulder was about an inch.
  23. Yes Tom I was sorry we did not connect. We were only there with Mark and Kathy Kikta on Friday as we had a family event planned for Saturday in Bedford. I saw some of the photos posted from the Saturday show and saw your 1931.. "Drat.... missed him again".
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