dibarlaw

Leif : I have a friend in our local club who has a 1927-54 but he has it in storage 60 miles away and it may be weeks before I can get there to take photos. Here are a few that I received when we bid on a 1927-54 when we were still looking for the "Driver Buick."

Leif: I have already looked at buying a 1923-54 roadster (My experience already documented in my thread "Looking for a driver Buick") and thought about either of the 2 1923-55s recently advertised. (Too much of a project for my garage space and pocket book). I did consider buying the gage on e-bay to at least say I had a part of one of these cars. Maybe one of the 54s or 55s would magically appear! Also thank you for photos you sent to me long ago of the front interior floor of your 1925-25. I am finally getting around to doing the linoleum and aluminum edging. Progress so far. After

Joe: Good Luck on that. I am sorry the previous material did not hold up. The brakes on my 1925 were done with the woven material and looked excellent. That is until I found out the previous owner had his "GUY" reline the brakes and install them with steel split rivets! Still sorry that we could not meet you this summer on our way to the Buick nationals. This September we went to look at a 1910 model 10 runabout that was supposedly looking for a good Buick loving home. I made an offer, which was no where near what the 89 year old owner wanted. This was considering that it was sitting in a trailer for 3 years and was not running. On our first phone conversation, when I asked what the car was he said" what do you offer me". Not knowing if it was a runabout, surrey or touring. Restored? Newer, older, complete (who, what, why, when etc.) with very few relevant answers. On the phone he stated that it had a top. Upon inspection it did not and he said it never had a top, even though it had the fastener rail and prop bolts. It was restored by him in the late 1980s according to "FACTORY SPECIFICATIONS"??? It needed considerable freshening up. He wanted to start at $20K and "dicker up". So I tried to get close to his start point but I needed to drive it at that price. I asked if it would be running when we went to inspect it? All he would say was it started with one pull of the crank. Needless to say it was not able to be started when we arrived. Oh well we at least tried. I myself would love to have a brass Buick. Have a Happy Thanksgiving and keep us posted on your progress.

We were at a book store in Doylestown Pa. last week and bought a copy for my son. This is the same 2-A we saw in the Sloan Museum. We were there to investigate the area as a possible stop on the 2016 Pre-War after tour. The main tourist attraction is the Mercer (not the automobile) museum.

I finally put the top up on the 1925 today. I had been waiting since last May for a local fellow to make up a top boot and spare tire cover for me. On Thursday he said he may not get to it till after the first of the year. So up goes the top. Then took about a 10 mile drive to give her some exercise. Also took the 1937 out since it had not moved since Oct 25th.

On my 1925-25 my float needle was always leaking and it seemed the shut off was not shutting off below the vacuum tank. I added another 1/4 turn ball valve just behind the carb and all is well for the moment.

I remember trying to contact the seller of a 1925-25 from e-bay 2 years ago to ask the same thing. Just give the buyer my contact information in case he would need help. Also since it looked to be very original, a good source for information for me. Each time no response. I hope it was sold to a Buick Guy and we can see it when finished.

The 1940 has been saved! A fellow Mason-Dixon chapter member brought it back from Emporium this afternoon. He will be using it as a parts car for his other 2 1940s. He even said it had a fairly nice "unbroken"! horn ring.

The 1940 has been saved! A fellow Mason-Dixon chapter member brought it back from Emporium this afternoon. He will be using it as a parts car for his other 2 1940s. He even said it had a fairly nice "unbroken"! horn ring.

I thought a fair asking price for this would be $1500 and he could come down or part out which he was willing to do. But now he is disgusted that no one has called and wants to take all to scrap. It does have a complete drive line and almost all the trim was pulled off and stored in the trunk so no hard work for removal. He wanted to just scrap it but I pleaded, convincing him it has value to antique car enthusiasts. If I did not quote him something higher than scrap price it was going to the crusher!!! I know myself when a 1925 standard, fairly complete chassis with a reported rebuilt engine came up and I offered $400. since it was in Tennessee. The seller wanted to wait till the end of the sale. I was out bid on e-bay at $175. (I missed putting in my bid). So I thought all was sold. When I called a week later to get information about parts that received no bid. He said no one called so he took all to the scrap and Got $158.00. Last year there was a 1925 model 54 Sport Roadster chassis mostly complete for about $400 in NY. I called all I knew who could have used this. No interest. So now is probably being made into appliances in China... I know all of us do not have large properties to save all these parts cars,(I don't). But I want to get them into the hands who can use them.

The gentleman who has the car really needs the money so if there is no interest he will take it all to scrap. So an offer over scrap price of (about $500) will probably take it. Again I hear of all the complaints about all the old salvage yards being scrapped out and when a useable parts car comes forth no one is interested. Come on, all the driveline and trim is worth it!!! Again contact. Richard Renolds 814-512-0556

Not mine. 1940 Super Coupe. As Director of the Mason-Dixon Chapter I Occasionally will get a call about something for sale. The car was presented to me as a 1946 Super 2 dr. The owner sent me about 30 photos as I was able to see it is quite rough. And also see that it was a 1940 not a 46. But with a complete driveline and quite a bit of trim pieces tucked away in the trunk it may provide a worth while donor. Located in Emporium Pa. If interested contact: Richard Renolds 814 512-0556 I posted photos in the Wanted/For sale section. He has had no calls. At this time if he gets better than scrap price you can probably pick it up. Otherwise he will take all to scrap!!!!!

The gentleman who has the car really needs the money so if there is no interest he will take it all to scrap. So an offer over scrap price of (about $500) will probably take it. Again I hear of all the complaints about all the old salvage yards being scrapped out and when a useable parts car comes forth no one is interested. Come on, all the driveline and trim is worth it!!! Again contact. Richard Renolds 814-512-0556

What was on the switch was "sash chain". For those of us who remember windows with weights clanging around in the wall.

This is what was on a 1924-45 I bid on last year. The owner had already passed so no info on what the switch originally was to fit. So Mark thank you for the leads as I want to set up a brake light for my 1925. A simple angle bolted to a cross member with a pull/on switch attached to the brake actuator rods.

Congratulations Dave : All it takes is perseverance .... and money. Looks great. Hopefully we will see it at next springs Buick Brunch. I just listed a 1940 Super parts car for sale in the for sale section. I had to send a photo of your car to the fellow whom I posted it for. Just to show him what a real nice 1940 coupe looks like. Best of Luck: Larry

Yes Pete it most certainly is a 1940. Originally he had described it as a 1946 or at least that was what was told to him by the woman on whose property it was pulled from. Then the barrage of photos came. Looked 40ish to me! He said there is a title.

Not mine. As Director of the Mason-Dixon Chapter I Occasionally will get a call about something for sale. The car was presented to me as a 1946 Super 2 dr. The owner sent me about 30 photos as I was able to see it is quite rough. But with a complete driveline and quite a bit of trim pieces tucked away in the trunk it may provide a worth while donor. Located in Emporium Pa. If interested contact: Richard Renolds 814 512-0556

We drove both this weekend. The 37 had not been out for 3 weeks, so we did about 10 miles to exercise her. Then on Sunday we drove "Beulah" to church and then to mingle with the fall foliage. We finally have some color around here. So I have a picture of my lovely wife Joan behind the wheel of our 1925 "Beulah" during the drive after church.

We finally have some color around here. So I have a picture of my lovely wife Joan behind the wheel of our 1925 "Beulah" during a drive after church.

gpdc: Just caught this thread. You have now graduated into the antique Buick technical expert club. Most of the course is trial by fire! I know personally I could not have gotten this far on my 1925 Standard if not for the help of all the wonderful generous people on this forum. The only thing that cured my overheating was to do a re-cored radiator. The honeycomb radiator that was on the car was supposedly cleaned and was pronounced good for service. A short drive (around the block) would have it boil over. Motometer topped out. I could not touch the radiator without being burned. One could feel hot and cooler spots on the face of the radiator. After new core. Drove the car about 10 miles today and after 40 min of stop and go driving the red on the motometer was just barely visible. Touching the face of the radiator it was comfortably warm. I fought with this for over a year and a half re-cleaning the complete system several times till I had the new core done. Back flushing the block. It seems most people who restored these cars seemed to like Red. Mine is to be Brewster green and a local fellow with a 1925-45 originally painted it the correct Cobalt blue. Then repainted it light blue. On the other hand the one you are working on is a great looking car! Best of luck: Larry

Here is a photo of a 1922 Buick model 45 engine we worked on 2 years ago. They have aluminum crankcases.

Early 1922-23 Buick Big series 6. Larry

When I replaced my clutch in my 1925-25 6 cylinder. This is what I found packed in the starter actuator mechanism. So that is where the other half of that clutch disk went!! Make sure this area is cleaned out and lubed. Larry

We are praying for your full recovery John. Joan and I need to share many more Pre-War Buick tour miles with you and Bea. Larry