Beemon

Have you considered digging a trench like Willie?

You could just put some ply wood down and call it good lol. Body work scares me to no end. I imagine floors would be pretty easy until you try to add back in the strengthening divets and channels that were pressed into the sheet metal. Good luck!

I don't think anyone has actually put one of these together for an alternator. A lot of threads on theory, ideas, etc but nothing too in detail. The nice thing about this conversion, as I tend to do with all my musings, is to leave the bracket stock. This, of course, posed some interesting problems which I was eventually able to solve through research, perseverance and the in-guy at NAPA. This write up is for a GM 10si 63 amp alternator. 63 amps is kind of an understatement as the max output of 63 is at 7000 RPM and I'll never see that. At 2000 RPM, the output is 55 amps so not too bad. A solid 35 amps at idle. The one I bought was new from NAPA for $68. Part # NNE 1N4011A. I wanted to avoid remanufactured alternators for obvious reasons. I also picked up the pig tail for $4 so the wire connection was idiot proof. Part # ECH VRC148. The first issue was the saddle style mount of the original generator vs the thru mount of the 10si alternator. 27si alternators were available, but the cost was a bit much and I wanted to keep close to 30-35 amp output under normal driving. When I decided on making the alternator work, I started taking measurements. The bracket ear is 1/8" thick and the generator leg is 3/8" thick. The alternator pulley must be then offset 1/2". To mount, I used an 8" bolt with an aircraft grade lock nut on the end so no amount of vibration will let it fly loose. I used 5 1" 5/16" ID steel spacers from the hardware store, but had to cut 1/8" off to space the alternator all the way forward. The stock wiring harness was already 10g, which is what GM used as stock. I taped off the pink wire and grounded the alternator with the yellow wire just like the generator. For the plug, the #2 plug wire (red) needs 12v to regulate amperage, so I jumped it to the battery terminal on the back. The #1 plug wire (white) is the exciter circuit and needs switched 12v. About the exciter wire: without a resistance wire and a dummy light, voltage from the ignition switch can back feed from the alternator into the coil and keep the engine running while the ignition is turned to off. To circumvent this issue, I installed a 1N5408 rectifier diode in line, connected with butt-connectors and wrapped in electrical tape. The gray line on the black silicon diode faces the alternator. This keeps current flowing only to the alternator and does not allow back feed to the coil. Don't ask me about the diode specifically, I found it on a tractor forum and it works. I opted not to install a dummy light. I figured it was either going to work or be sent back to NAPA after I confirmed with the multimeter. The white exciter line goes straight to the 12v hot side of the ballast resistor. By now you're probably wondering about pulley alignment. A single groove pulley was not going to cut it by any means, so I had to get crafty. My go to guy at NAPA happened to have a spare 2 groove pulley, otherwise I was going to purchase this other alternator that came with a 2 groove pulley. Part # RAY 2134031. The only difference is that instead of the clock being 12:00, it's at 3:00 so wiring may be a little bit more difficult. Pulleys are pretty rare but if you know a local rebuild shop that does nothing but alternators, starters, etc., they might have one. Despite the 2 groove pulley, I had to pick up a 16mm washer to space the pulley 1/8". The second groove on the pulley was 3/8" from the first groove, so this took up the 1/2" deficit that was left by the bracket shift. To be clear, both pulleys on the generator and alternator 1 groove were the same height. Pulleys are aligned and checked with a straight edge off the back of the water pump pulley. The only thing that bugs me is the empty pulley, but it was either that or custom fit a bracket (don't have the shop to do it, aiming for simplicity), a bracket off a late 401/425 without AC (mounts to the head which requires the permanent removal of the spark plug cover and may or may not interfere with generator mount), or leave the generator be. Wiring on the other side was simple. Move the white 10g wire from ARM to BAT terminal on the voltage regulator so it runs through the amp meter. The green wire that attached to the starter relay was removed and taped off. I added a new wire and grounded it to the other screw on the side of the junction block. I did this conversion because I had a suspicion that the generator had been holding back more than just accessories. After first test fire, the car immediately came to life with no ignition hesitation. Brighter dash lights, headlights. Multimeter had shown a full 14.7V at idle, the generator was maybe 13.6V. When the engine was shut off, the battery remained at around 12.7V with no drain. With the ignition switch on, there is a slight drain, but that's due to the exciter circuit I'm pretty sure. This is an interim thing until I can afford a Powermaster Powergen alternator. I plan to go to power windows and electric wipers (the 55 chev motor is on the way). The extent of my sound system will be a solid state radio with stock speakers. Can't think of anything else at the moment, but no more issues with charging. Anyways, I hope this helps someone out.

Nice! Personally, I would do all four though. You'll install the other two you think are fine and then they load up or get too hot because of old grease and then you'll have to pull it out again.

Niccop at NAPA

It was connected with steel lines from the transmission. The cooler is just a pipe that goes through the bottom of the radiator. Depending on the type of external cooler, it should work better. The stock cooler is a fluid transfer that cools the transmission by using the engine coolant. If your transmission overheats, your engine overheats. The term cooler is also subjective considering the coolant normalizes around 180-195 degrees F so you're not really cooling the lines any more than normal operation temps. Running it in line would be like a pre-heater. Others have opinions on this subject. When I had my Dynaflow rebuilt, I was told the cooler the transmission the longer it'll last and they pointed me to a horizontal ribbed HD Hayden cooler. I haven't looked back.

If they're anything like the ones from kanter, you might as well bend them yourself. In my experience they were close but not close enough. Also stay away from inverted flare stainless steel lines. The SS will not crush on the flare fitting and will be really hard to seal. Others I'm sure have opinions.

His website seems to be down, but it can't hurt to give him a call. +1 888-595-1110

This is the section of the shop manual that covers ride height. If your ride height is out of those specs when you remove the spacers, then a new set of coils should be in your imminent future.

The shop manual says three spacers are ok. Anything more can adversely affect quality. I've been told that new springs raise the car up like a lifted 4x4 and there's about a month lead time for them. The fronts also require a spring compressor whereas the rears can be removed by dropping the rear axle. You can check your ride height by comparing specific points on the frame in regards to each axle, it's documented in the shop manual.

Get on touch with the Flying Dutchman (not joking), I think it will run you about $150. Russ Martin trusts him and he's a pretty cynical guy when it comes to rebuilders.

buick man, funny you should mention gray painted rebuilt units - my unit went out on my grandmother back when she was driving my mother in the back seat and the unit I originally pulled off my car was painted a gray/blue color. I wish I had a picture, but it fits with your suspicions.

It can go either way. I must have called every transmission shop in the area before I settled with my usual place and they were either "experts" or didn't want to take it on. The experts didn't have a test stand or know the difference between a variable pitch or regular Dynaflow or some other piece of info I asked about and the guys who didn't want it were honest in saying they had no experience to tinker and hope for the best. The claimed experts also started raising the prices the more and more you talked to them without little to no information other than they're experts. I like my normal mechanic because the owner is humble and his shop is filled with good guys (they're also specifically a transmission shop but have taken on other issues no problem). I think that's really all it takes, other than disassemble and build it yourself. The term 'expert' is self given these days anyways, since these transmissions are no longer contemporary so anyone who claims to be an expert might just be doing that - claiming to be an expert, as was the case obviously with Mr. Phil Horton. Having experienced many 'experts' in the short two years I've been restoring my Buick has turned me away from anyone who claims to be just that. Expert engine rebuilder installed rear main wrong, sloppy timing chain and one constant noisy lifter. Expert steering component rebuilders returned a sloppy gear box and destroyed my pump. Expert starter and generator rebuilder had my starter grenade itself, who knows when the generator will go out. Expert distributor guy curved my distributor to something that was not a 322 Buick Nailhead when it was rebuilt despite having the necessary paperwork from the shop manual. The only two things I've had rebuilt that I have had absolutely no complaints from are the Dynaflow and rear end (both done at the same shop) - the rear end was a lost cause from the start, but they took the slop out of it so I can't complain, and the Dynaflow has been bulletproof. I learned real quick that without a semblance of a doubt, either have it done by someone who is as passionate about your project as you are, or do it yourself. If they don't care about you, they don't care about their work and you end up burned.

Sorry for the confusion! I've only ever seen two types of headers for the late Nailhead, block huggers and rear exit. I think a rear exit header would maybe fit but I'm not sure what you're currently running. Best of luck to you, sorry for the useless information (may help future 322 guys, tho ).

The ports are different from 322. The 264/322 are round ports and the 364/401/425 are square. You would have to find some header flanges and make your own or modify existing but cutting the flange off and adding a 322 flange. If you have single exhaust, find a driver side dual exhaust manifold and move the driver side single exhaust to the passenger side. Pretty much all we have for "original" headers. The driver single exhaust and driver dual exhaust manifolds are like traditional Y pipe headers together and you eliminate the bulky thermostatic controller on the stock passenger side exhaust manifold.

I thought that was normal? Except for the ground down part...

Valvoline VR1 racing oil has the right amount of zinc in it, too. When you get to rebuilding, I would look into Amsoil or Royal Purple if you plan to drive it a lot. Synthetics tend to weep, and the standards for producing are so low that most are comparable to conventional fluids, but Amsoil is the type of company that will issue you a refund if their oil doesn't hold up in a lab test. The engine just needs to be clean or you'll be de sludging it and that can cause more problems than regular conventional oil. If you can't avoid ethanol, a pump rebuild is imminent. Also periodic inspection of solder joints on the carburetor. Don't ask me how I know...

Do you have it in writing? A lot of these businesses get out of warranties because it's "vintage" and parts are unavailable. I was told I was responsible for anything that happened to my Dynaflow after it left the shop because of how old it was and that they would not honor their usual warranty, which I agreed to. Also $3500 seems like a huge rip off to me. I had mine rebuilt for a thousand less at the same corner mechanic that does all my other cars. They don't have to be a Dynaflow expert to rebuild one, the title I guess comes with the padded price.

Is there anything retaining the worm gear? You might just get away with cleaning the part where the brushes ride.

You'll have to get us a video of it running!

My 56 Buick came with mirrors that were not factory correct to the car but were correct for the car that came from the factory. Unless you're doing a concourse car, I don't think it really matters as long as it looks nice and works properly.

Looks just like the power antenna armature. Carefully remove it and clean off the copper surface where the brushes ride. Also scrub the magnetic surfaces gently to remove the light surface rust. When you reinstall, you can hold the carbon brushes back with two paper clips. Looks like the old grease just hardened in there and siezed it up. The gears look great!

Did you rule out the fuel pump yet? On my 02 Jeep Liberty when I was diagnosing a poor cylinder (code told me it was fuel injector, but I actually dropped an intake valve lol), I had to remove the fuel rail and I checked the fuel pump by sticking the rubber fuel hose in a glass vase and hit the starter. Checking your pump similarly is a lot cheaper than tearing apart the carburetor.

It might have a worm gear on the shaft to spin the drive gear. Try spinning the drive gear by hand and see if it comes off.

All the gauges swivel from the bottom (for oil, temp) or the top (gas, amp). I think that's the hard part, finding a gauge that's similar that you can dismantle and then retrofit somehow onto the stock gauge cluster.