Beemon

When I removed my hood, I just marked and numbered the washers. Lined it back up perfectly doing this.

Its not her car

That's why I'm back to one carb now. When rebuilding yourself, you really gotta get the idle passages clean and make sure the correct check ball is where it's supposed to be. Also setting the floats with a ruler can be a serious pain in the ass because if I recall correctly, its of a 32nd of an inch... I eyeballed it to the least 16th so it wouldn't flood, but it's probably running a tad lean. Didn't have any issues running both this way and still have no issues now. One thing ethanol fuel does great is clean the carb out, that's for sure. Anyways, I won't spam your thread anymore. It's a great carb when built right.

Thanks for your thoughts, Chris. My dad had a 64 Chev pickup with a 4 speed and it sounds just like that. The 4 speed was essential because 1st was too low. That's the type of information I'm looking for. Unfortunately, for a complete 4 speed setup, it means butchering the heart of the car and that's not something I want to do. I'm hoping others will chime in on the 322 with 3-speed, but if that's the case then I might just stick with the Dynaflow and maybe see about finding some 3.9 gears.

I rebuilt mine myself (both of them) after having three people go through mine. If you want it done right, you gotta do it yourself. You might want to hold on to that one, though. Just in case your current one decides to let a lead plug sink and you oil the top of the valley cover with unleaded gas.

All I know about the 56 Syncromesh is that the bellhousing flange to torque ball is the same length as a Dynaflow, as the torque tube is the same. There are no numbers indicating the stamped numbers make it a 56 in the shop manual, either.

I'm really thinking about this right now... I think I'm tired and need 8 hours of sleep before I make a dedicated decision. These night shifts are really getting to me. I wouldn't even have the cash saved for another month...

That's not what I mean, I mean when the whole world was like that. It was just a different way of life.

And you don't happen to have a crankshaft to go along with the manual transmission, do you?

Looks like he uploaded them to his PC, then took pictures of the pictures on his PC with his phone, then uploaded those pictures to his PC to upload to Craigslist. The one's that really bother me are the people that put a finger over the license plates.

It must have been fun to be a part of that generation. The engineering golden age, time without immediate communication, you could disappear for a bit and not be bothered constantly...

Halogen bulbs are still standard in current automobiles that use reflector housings. Only halogen bulbs can be used in a reflector housing. Some automakers are also adopting the projector housing, where HID/Xenon/LED bulbs can be used. The difference is of course, one has the lens behind the bulb to reflect it, and the other has the lens in front of the bulb to project it. You cannot put halogens in a projector and you cannot put HIDs in a reflector - they do not work the same. In fact, HID projectors do not dim from high to low - there is a shudder that blocks vision on "low beam" and then opens up on "high beam"; the bulb does not dim at all. Halogen seal beams and even the "seal beam to bulb" conversion kits work pretty good. Most conversion kits use the H4 halogen bulb that has the same socket connector as a halogen seal beam, but they do the same thing - the only difference being you only remove the bulb to replace vs the entire unit and then fumble to adjust the beam again. To convert to HID/Xenon/LED, you need to add some type of resistor in line and then find a way to make a projector work in the place of the seal beam. Some people do make them, but they are expensive - and keep away from the cheap kits, they are not the real deal. Here's a thread I found where someone made their own projector lens. Likewise, here's a vendor that makes them for you using the same stuff. As you can see, it gets pretty pricey, but may be worth it. It just looks goofy and stands out with the projector right there in the center where the seal beam used to be.

I thought this one had sold a while ago? You didn't throw this up because of my thread, did you? Are clutches available? And how rare is the U-joint?

Good carburetor, so long as the lead plugs don't dissolve in ethanol. After running one on the street as a daily, the bog has been almost completely worked out. What's on your car now?

Thanks for this. I couldn't remember if it was one way or another. Since I don't feel like doing a complete engine tear down, looks like I'll have to bag this. A gentleman up in Canada is selling a 56 Nailhead for $500 and I've been considering starting new, rebuilding it myself, but it's coming up with the cash that's the hard part.

The whole point of using the 3 speed Synchromesh would be to not hassle with a rear end swap and dig a bigger pocket book well. I'm not too worried about floor shift kits because I figure I would just make my own out of a shift lever kit. I'm also hoping the source also has the 3.91 gears. I also toyed with the idea of getting a car with a manual transmission, but I'd never be able to afford one on my wages.

Thinking about this a lot, and wondering if it will really be worth it to do a conversion like this. My research says it must be single exhaust, manual brakes but power steering is ok, driveshaft is the same. The clutch linkage bolts to the block and interferes with the driver side exhaust if running dual exhaust, and a power master cylinder will not fit with the clutch linkage either. What type of benefits or gains would one make over a Dynaflow (except fun to drive, no slobbering Dynaflow...) if they did this conversion? I've read somewhere that crankshafts are different between manual and automatic. Is it okay to use a Dynaflow crankshaft with a Syncromesh or is it the other way around? Also availability of pilot bushings and clutch plates? If I were serious about this, I would try to keep the power brakes and use some type of hydraulic clutch to minimize space and keep the dual exhaust, keep the stock automatic steering column and install a floor shifter. Then it gets into the price range of "do you have enough money?" Also happy Easter, everyone!

Isn't it a shame Sears is going away?

Could it also be the brass bushing in the steering column?

You can, it's just really hard to see if they are internally leaking from age. You can change from capacitance to voltage and then back real quick to give it some juice and see if it leaks down or not, but the voltage supplied is really small and you often can't tell. All of the capacitors in my engine bay checked out with their proper reading, but I'm sure they are leaking down.

You gotta find yourself the closed end wrench that bent at a 45 degree and 90 degree angle. I struggled for 2 hours at a junkyard trying to remove a starter with straight wrenches in an open engine bay (no heads, no exhaust, etc). When I got home, it was a 30 minute affair with the 90 degree close ended wrench.

I always roll my eyes when I see "SURVIVOR, 60,000 ORIGINAL MILE". The odometer only goes up to 99,999 and then rolls over... my grandpa told me about that one when I asked him "56,000 original miles? What happened?" He said add a 2 on the front.

Ditto. All I can ever find are within the .18-.23 uF range. The generator and coil capacitors are supposed to be .3 uF and the capacitor on the voltage regulator is supposed to be .5 uF. I would love to replace all of them with shiny new ones. All of them check out with a multimeter, but I never checked for leak down as I'm sure they probably all have.

A beautiful Buick, but did you see the corn starch in the fuel filter bowl?

I've always gone through CARs, some go through Bob's, others through Classic Buicks. And then there's Kanter, and Fusick (Fusick usually being my pick out of the two). Just take your pick.