Beemon

Are you using a thermal flasher still? Might try a solid state one. I had similar issues with my flasher.

You can find a complete stock power steering kit at that junkyard I shared for much cheaper and it will be correct. As for the block... I don't know what it is, but that's not a Nailhead...

After getting the carburetor tuned up, I'm getting 12 mpg around town. 200 miles for 17 gallons, not bad I think. One less mpg than the Jeep I was driving. After lubing up the wiper motor with grease again, I'm getting steady 16.5"Hg at idle, according to the Stewart Warner motor minder (runs through wiper lines). Looking pretty good for a shake down run to the peninsula beginning of August and then off to the University.

Leaving you stranded at work the first time and at school the second time, both in the winter in 32 degree weather is pretty common for me... If/When it goes, just make sure to have a spare set of points to get going, because you will need a tow truck. Did you verify the spark plug is firing by grounding the electrode somewhere like the fender or valve cover and turning over the engine? You can check the wire with a multimeter to see if it's shorted out. Usually, any wire will have some type of resistance, but if the meter reads infinity or something that's not a number, then it's broken. Likewise, just because the plug looks good, does not mean it was made correctly. It could just be a bad plug out of the box.

When you add photos, copy the image URL and then under "Insert Other Media" in the bottom right of the post box, go to Image from URL and paste the link, it should link the image properly.

Thanks for the tip! Unfortunately, the last drive in theater nearby was torn down and turned into a yardless housing lot exactly 7 months before I got my Buick back on the road. I've more or less given up on this concept after my whole engine debacle, but if I revisit it, it would probably be electric for ease of operation. There's no good place to put the V-belt pump unless you make a bracket and stick it under the PS pump, which there isn't much room for unless you put it almost towards the battery - or put it where the AC is supposed to go. The only issue with electric is that you need to dump the generator, etc etc, then loose the factory safety feature for the starter. I suppose a Powergen would solve all problems, but they're $$$. Anyways, what year Mercedes pump do you recommend?

lol well I wasn't sure if you had opened up the filter or probed the gas tank. Are you using the pancake filter or a different one?

Did you ever figure out what the sticky stuff was?

I've never had an issue with the gold zinc plated bolts, but the silver bolts I've noticed rust out pretty quick. Likewise, grade 8 chrome bolts are available where I live and I've thought about using those, too, but it's kind of expensive....

Haha don't know about the guy but he does talk to the ladies and plays the Platters.

I could understand something like this going away due to crash safety tests and the potential risks the passenger may face, especially with modern airbags. The one that always got me, though, was the Mopar swivel buckets that faced you when you opened the door. Those were cool.

Thanks for the kind words, Doug! I started this project to save an old, depressed man after the death of his wife and I think I've succeeded. I keep moving forward because I unlock the memories and see the joy it brings. One of his care givers told my mother he's only got a couple years left in him so it pains me to go off to college, but at the same time I'm glad he got to experience the car he started a family with again.

Whatever you do, don't take the block to Auburn Auto Machine. The last nailhead to come out of there (not mine) dropped a valve seat and flooded the crank case with coolant. The auto shop across the street from the Cennex station in Black Diamond deals specifically in vintage cars. They turned me on to this ex Boeing engineer who is on point. Unfortunately he's moving 40 minutes outside of Pullman, but it's worth the drive. There was another machinist but I wasn't interested. That was also through the vintage shop. The shop owner's name is Keith. I'd have to look for the phone number, but you're close, and they're good people - you'll know the shop when you see it.

I bought up every 56 322 block I could find from Idaho to Oregon. 57 was the first year for the 364, though. I know where there's quite a few in the Auburn area, if you're close (I know you're from Seattle, where are you located at?). If you're interested, I can give you the gentleman's information. He's strictly local, though, as in no shipping, and pretty interesting guy to get to know. Here's a pic of some of his wares: Good thing you don't need any sheet metal! If you're missing your fender spear, however, there might be a good one out there. The one in the pic is in pretty decent shape, but it's bent at the end...

Today is monday, but since I'm on medical leave, every day has been a weekend for me these past few weeks. Today I took my grandpa to the doctor's. He had bypass surgery and his heart had gone into fibrillation. After several blood thinner visits, he finally had a new pace maker installed. I always joke, it's like that new car part you install in your vintage car to keep it running. Anyways, that was a year ago, today he's doing well. He doesn't like getting his picture taken, so I snapped these: Later we went for breakfast (at 5pm) and he talked a bit about the car, among other things. It's always funny, he brings up the Boeing aircraft seat belts he installed in 58 every time he gets in the car.

Willie, I know of a yard here that has a 2197 that's frozen solid. I am not sure the condition of the carb, but I'll see. I'm not sure if I'm banned from that yard or not because the last time I was there he had the 56 up in the air and was trying to get $400 for a short block... The 1406 is a pretty reliable mod. However, lack of gas pedal start is disheartening. I have some plans drawn up that include pipe fitting, 1/2" ID pipe, a 1/2" ball bearing, 1/2" drill bit, 1/8" flat stock, a tap, rod and arm... still working on it, but it would bolt on aft the carb at the driver rear stud.

Lifter tap may work itself out after an oil change. My new engine had a noisy valve train, almost like yours. It went away after an oil change and now it sounds like a sewing machine.

With the car shutting off and the battery dead, it almost sounds like an ignition problem now. Did you verify the floats were full by removing the sight plugs on the side of the carb?

Going on 15 years without fuel injector failure or rubber house failure using ethanol in a 2002 Jeep. Not sure where the ethanol stigma comes from. If the system is updated to ethanol resistance, as it should, then there is no problem. Not saying ethanol isn't corrosive, but it's not the end if you plan accordingly.

Looks like that old Rochester needs some work, old girl nearly choked herself

Looking good! Now you just need the glass bowl back on there.

Plus one to blowing compressed air through the passage. If there's one thing I learned from all you guys, it's KISS.

Ouch! Without buying a new master cylinder, you could always try tapping the master cylinder and putting a plastic reservoir on the fender with a rubber hose... or make one out of steel tubing and tap it to fit the old cap.

Rochester carbs use rubber tipped needles in the seat that can go bad after a while. If the Carter is original, the needle should be metal. However, you don't know if they've been replaced with rubber or not. Verify the filter flows, then verify the float bowls are dry. If they're dry, then it's time to open the carb.