Beemon

I filed off the back end, but I think it just didn't have much left in it when I tightened it down. It never went tight like the other one, it just kept spinning until the head came off.

Bet you thought it was the engine, right? Well, kinda... When I was cleaning out the vacuum passage for the choke, I broke the choke butterfly screw on reinstall. Is this a special screw or should I settle for self tapping machine screws?

Here you go, this about sums up cost, where to buy, part numbers, etc. It's the same price to refurbish your old system. Why do you want to swap? For the record, I did it. The only pros is no brake fade, good OEM parts over the counter and you get tapered roller bearings that better handle the load radial tires put on the spindle. The cons are that it's not a 1:1 swap and you will need more pedal pressure to stop the same as drums if use the original master cylinder. With that in mind, I use ball bearings in drums and go up and down hills where compression brakes are prohibited daily, without issue. I also upgraded to Roadmaster front brakes on my 56 Buick, but even with the stock brakes I would only have fade coming off the highway or down a hill only if I really rode them hard, and I mean hard. Around where I live, you have to ride the brakes all the way down so you don't get to the stop light at the bottom going 90MPH. And the hill speed limit is 40MPH. So there's really nothing wrong with the original setup. Edit: I should also note that that list is outdated. The shoes, springs, wheel cylinders and hoses can all be bought over the counter. You really get screwed on the wheel bearings and drums, if they're bad.

Rochester or Carter?

One day of rain has nothing on 50+ years of entropy, believe me! My car isn't a rust bucket by any means and has been stored outside for the last 30+ years. Granted it was covered, but still You guys will be fine. Don't let the weather ruin your Buick fun, the rain is the only time I get to spin rubber in the 56.

I have so much to look forward to when I get mine painted and finished.

I've never had spam before, but I think I have 4 weeks to see if I like it because I don't think I can survive on Ramen alone.

You could do what Boeing does and put a sealed expansion bag in the tank, or try to patch the holes yourself with brazing and finesse. The Tanks INC tank will work, but like you said you loose the 2 gallons so you just have to pick your battles.

Sticking contact points I think would be the only thing to cause enough current draw.

You could always scarce up some later backing plates to upgrade your surface area. Great work with the car, Matt! You're probably just waiting on radiator now, huh.

Thanks for the photos and information! Nothing for me anytime soon it seems.

Doug, I had one ordered on the shelf here. If I were going, I would have definitely split you that deal! I didn't realize Canada is x2 the price.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CFPB0151P?searchCategory=4.2&searchIndex=App http://www.autozone.com/external-engine/fuel-pump/spectra-premium-fuel-pump/302978_0_2391 http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PFP0/M23040/02535.oap?year=1965&make=Buick&model=Riviera&vi=5148830&ck=Search_fuel+pump_C0401_5148830_3700&keyword=fuel+pump&pt=C0401&ppt=C0025 Ask for a 65 Riviera, or something. 401/425 pumps are the same as the 364.

15:1 if I recall was the stoich ratio for ethanol free gas. 14.7 was picked for e10 because it needs to be richer to burn the leaner fuel, and then so on and so forth going down the line. How do you normally mount your gauge? Under dash?

The winding arm is the large metal plate at the bottom that sits on top of the copper coil. Rotate it counter clockwise and see if it runs. I'd take pictures but I just put the dash pad back on.

Pardon my ignorance, but is the Buick Reatta kind of the same class as like a Pontiac Fiero and similar small two door compact cars of the same era?

I am also very interested in this. I would like to see what the carburetor is doing under all loads to see if a vintage carburetor really is better than a modern tuneable carburetor... (I hope I don't start any fights with this one)

There are tangs to bend, but my lower end gauges were accidentally damaged when I removed the cluster for speedometer repair. They didn't move freely afterwards and I just pulled the whole gauge cluster this last week to diagnose. Basically there are two metal tangs to adjust, one on the needle and one on the spring. Without any way to set them (a custom test box would need to be made to simulate conditions), all I have to go off is other people's cars. Since putting it back in, at normal temp the the temp gauge sits a little below N. I'm also not sure what T-stat is in the car, could be a 160. At idle in gear, the oil pressure gauge sits in the red. When I get on it, it goes up to halfway between L and N and stops. I think my temp gauge may be fine, but the oil pressure gauge seems to be way off. Willis, 2000 RPM during cruise is normal for a Nailhead per my observations. I have had a digital tach in my car for over a year now, and it matches the Sears tach I have in the garage. These readings are consistent with both of my engines.

John on the oil pressure gauge, next time you're driving, can you tell me where the needle is at about 35mph is? That's about 2000RPM.

Does anyone have any information on what the Buick gauges should read? I had torn my gauge cluster out to fix some stuck gauges, but now that they're free, I don't think they're reading right. I was told 1955 for the temp gauge goes up to 200 degrees, but when I tested my temp gauge, it was in boiling water and the needle was between N and H. Likewise, under normal driving, the oil gauge won't even go to N. It's always between L and N, and at idle it's in the red. Is the oil pressure gauge between 0-40 or different? Likewise, is the temp gauge from like 140-200 or different?

Running pretty strong. It's got a smell to it, but I think that's because the sludge, acids, etc are baking out. It's a new learning curve for sure, because i was so used to a motor that was destined to die, I'm not used to a good runner.

Maybe in the market for a new battery, too?

I was told doing a torque tube puts hair on a man's chest. We all do it at some point! lol At least you had a garage to do yours in. Nothing makes it worse than nail biting a 24 hour rear end job, hoping the rains don't come.

Quoted from the Washington Small Claims Court:

Uh oh, what happened??