Beemon

The first thing I'm going to do is take it to the car wash and pressure wash it. I was thinking about painting it, too, but not sure about that. My father also told me to drop the pan and get any sludge out of there if any. I do still have a complete engine gasket kit. I also wanted to do a compression test but I feel like I would find something... Also, it came with chrome valve covers. Now I need to find a chrome air cleaner.

Sold to me. We got it running, no funny noises no hesitation. The guy who owned it before though put some type of AFB carburetor on top of it with a spread bore adapter, its really goofy. I let him have that though.

Sold for $550. Motor and trans. Guy is doing an LS swap.

I removed the one in mine right before I coated it with a tank restore by POR15. It was tough at first, but that's the only way to effectively get all the old gas out.

Matt, the tank straps ground the sending unit and tank to the frame. Since you painted it, make sure when you reinstall, to put a grounding strap from the sender to the frame. Did you check the sender to see if it still works?

Yes it works.

Weren't they all the same length? I thought the difference was torque tube length.

One step closer at least!

Or the motor in the 54 could be the spare and no one would be the wiser Congratulations on your sell, Matt. Looking forward to see the 54 on the road. I forget now, but what engine were you sending off for rebuild?

Getting close to driving it around the block?

I'm not in the market to buy a whole car just to get mine running, I wouldn't have anywhere to put it, and then I'd have to turn around and sell the car for cheap to get rid of it, without an engine, In terms of getting another engine running, I would bring a known good carb and gasket, or intake manifold to get it to fire off... if it even turns over. I had a lead a while back about a 55 264 crate engine that had never been opened that I think I'll try to follow first, though I doubt the journal bearings would be any good sitting for 60 years in a box. If I recall with the 264, the stroke is the same as a 322, but the bore is different, correct? Just found this: https://spokane.craigslist.org/pts/6176441837.html Maybe I can split a deal with mom and pops as a grad gift... if it really is running, lol.

I've seen people get into cars at car shows for pictures. The best part was always the angry owners that came running with their lawn chair. Some people just don't have respect.

Thank you Willis. As always, I take what everyone here has to say seriously, whether i want to hear it or not. That being said, I've focused my last ditch effort to finding a local running engine, or an engine that can be made to run easily. Chances are slim, but I am holding out for one month. There is an engine at the same junkyard that is a 53 engine, which is complete, but I feel like I'll be bled dry for it. There's also a 55 engine intact, but I feel pulling anything from a junkyard would just be bad business and will likely be a spare parts scenario, unless it got up and running right then and there. It's the only lead I have right now. I'll see about bending the yard's owner's ear about setting up a battery and gravity feed gas tank and try to start it. Or, at least get it to turn over. I put an add on Craigslist, so I'll see if I can't catch something fishing. I don't have a picture of the 55 block, can't remember what's in it, but if I can get that one to turn over, do you suppose 55 rods and pins would work with 56 pistons? Or are they not interchangeable?

If they were drilled and tapped, they would work like 54/55 rods, where there's a bolt that keeps the wrist pin. I would still like clarification on mix matching rods and pistons, though. I'm pretty sure there's a specific reason why #1 piston goes back into #1 cylinder, so on and so forth.

In which case, you can forego the extra cost and use a real transmission cooler.

I don't know... I feel like he would sell me a mix matched set, and not an actual matched set... I'm just going to see how things go from here. I'm really in no place to be buying more and more stuff.

The rods would have to be a balanced set with the pistons, that's why I've been looking for a complete set. If I'm going to throw something together, it has to be within a certain threshold otherwise I'm destroying more parts with harmonic imbalance. Vibration is a huge factor in stress fracturing. So I either want all 8 or none at all, because I can't afford to have someone balance 7 to 1. I've gotten off the phone with the machinist and we may be able to drill and tap the connecting rods in my ruined block so they can hold the 55 pins. They're junk anyways so why not try?

For the record, I know the engine should be done up right.... this is just the final blow, you know? I don't have the money to bore and hone any block because I spent my budget on finding junkyard pieces. I can't even use the #3 connecting rod because the person before me beat the hell out of it trying to get the piston out. Everyone else wants $400 for junk that I can't afford so I'm literally just stuck, like that piston. I'm just beat. This was supposed to be fun. Rat hole cash for two years going to school to invest in my dream car and it's ruined so bad none of the big parts are reusable. When I get any money, I'll let you all know if custom rods are available.

Found out why #3 won't come out. I give up. Just naturally born to lose. The only thing worse now is if the car got seized by the DEA. At least it wouldn't be my problem then.

John, the car may be sitting for 3 years or longer. I won't be making any money for a long time, and once I graduate, I'll need to get settled before I attempt on the car again. Best possible outcome is I get my settlement money, but I doubt I will, at least not before I'm thrown through the courts. I don't think my grandpa has 3 years left in him, it's just a really bad situation all around. It would be nice if the engine never failed the way it did, but oh well I guess, seems to be my luck with everything on this car.

This whole thing is very depressing to be honest.... if I need to remove the ridge on the block, I'll use a reamer tool from the parts store rentals. Same thing with the valve seat cutter, if I go that far for freshening the valve seats. For installing rings in a stock block with some wear, do I use stock rings or somewhat oversized rings, like .010" over? I don't need to hone the block, right? I mean, I know I should, but will the rings seat without honing?

I got the crank and 7 pistons out. For some reason, all the crank journals except the rear were rusted and pitted. Same with the bearings. The rear main is spotless, but the seal surface is also pretty nasty. Most of it can be polished off, but I found out why the engine was pulled - #1 rod bearing blew out. The rod is fine, and there was still some bearing, but the crank is pretty messed up on #1. So now I guess I'll be reusing my crank out of the other engine, along with those bearings. #4 piston needs to soak longer. And of course... here's my original running block: The block I bought for the rods, crank (ugh) and pistons: And the bare block:

Is this only for installation or during use? Ken, s332 and s276 are the same as the 364/401/425, so I'm confused now. Those were the part numbers the Napa book gave me

last question, but what about piston rings? standard or .006 oversized? I can't afford to hone the bare block. It has a small ridge at the top and I was thinking of installing the pistons from the bottom. I really am ignorant about this guys so please slap me if I'm doing something wrong.

What about main and rod bearings?