MikeC5

Well, they're half right. Ha ha! You have a good point there Phil...

I'd say chances are about 1 in a million (maybe more) it is legitimate. I guess that's how the spammers do it; send out millions of emails to get one or two suckers....

I did search through some threads on key word 'research' but couldn't find anything specific. I have a 1925 Dodge Brothers and all I have to go on are the VIN and a windshield decal form state of PA Inspection (inspection station 6832) from 1947. Is it possible to get any cooperation from PA motor vehicle dept to search on VIN ? Would anyone out there have information on the whereabouts of inspection station 6832 in that time period?

My brother and I saw Wayne at Hershey this year and we talked with him a bit. He was a complete gentleman and thanked us for watching the show. He enthusiastically posed for a photo of he and my brother.

Thanks guys. I don't think the average ball point pen spring is strong enough. We have one decent hardware store in the area that I'll check this weekend..

Hi guys, I did manage to get a cable so now I'm only missing the spring and ball. I found a ball bearing that fits but am having trouble coming up with a suitable spring. Anyone perchance have a photo and/or dimensions, wire thickness of said spring?

It looks like it could be oak. It tastes like it... I was sanding without a mask and after a while could taste the fine dust. Reminded me of refinishing antique oak furniture.

Anyone know what kind of wood the rim is?

Lookin' great!

I really envy you guys that have the history of your car back to day 1. Very nice find!

I know someone out there who has done a thorough restoration has wrestled with these. I have a '25 touring car and I'm guessing it is the same on 24 - 26 at least. I'd like to know if there is any way to remove the side curtain sockets without destroying them? In the attached photos, there is a bracket that is riveted to the door into which the socket seems to be permanently attached. It appears to be welded on the tabs (which show no inclination to bend up). It would be easy enough to grind down the rivets and remove the assembly except that the part that sticks through the top of the door is rolled over (like a tubular rivet) and won't fit through the hole in the door unless you 'unroll' the tube. Has anyone dealt with this?

Hey Don, do you plan to re-use the front splash apron (under the radiator)? If not I would be interested in purchasing it.

Good one! I hadn't heard that one before...

If there is an area with enough good threads you may be able to get a thread pitch gauge in there. The idea is you try the ones that look about right until you find the one that fits perfectly. Then measure the ID of the cap. This should get you close enough to find the standard size tap. A set of pitch gauges shouldn't cost too much.

O.K. Thanks GG.

Thanks GG, I see what you mean. One other question, is there supposed to be a sheet of plywood or something similar that covers the top of the front seat base? It seems like the springs would want to sag in the openings...

I did get the hinges out tonight. It turns out the hinges have countersunk holes and the stamped countersunk holes in the inner door skin fit within the hinge countersinks. The threaded piece behind the hinge flange is welded into the door structure and you actually have to force the hinge out by prying the hinge and deflecting the structure enough to let the nested countersinks slide past each other. Got it?

Not a highjack at all Gentlemen! Who could complain about such detailed information about unrestored vehicles? Double G, When you say "The seats, front and back, were covered in black leather and a different material around the base of the seats and door panels that looked like leather with a thin cloth backing." Are the seat bases different on a '24? Mine are all metal.

Thanks guys. Where else might I find this kind of information? I do see the clips Tony, thanks.

Thanks Jason, Just to be sure we're discussing the same animal, here are photos of the hinge in question.

Anyone have any experience on how to remove the lower hinge on a '25 touring car rear door? These are the hinges that are visible from the outside. I was able to carefully persuade the 3 screws out but the hinge won't come out of the slot. The hinge is loose; it can be wiggled slightly up & down but that's it. I've got it soaking with some penetrating oil overnight for another try. Is there anything I'm missing here?

Good point. Maybe leather?

I did have George (the guy in Nebraska) make me a puller for my '25. It was reasonably priced and well made. I give him a thumbs up!

Hi Ray, I suspect it isn't as bad as it looks if I assume it operates similar to the '25 pump I rebuilt. In the attached photo, the bronze impeller is shown with the inlet side facing the viewer. When assembled, this side of the impeller faces the inlet side of the pump (the part sitting behind the impeller in the picture). Water flows into the doughnut-shaped cavity from the lower radiator elbow, it enters the impeller and is thrown outward (a centrifugal-type of pump) by the spinning impeller, gaining pressure in the process. In order to get adequate pumping, the clearance between the impeller and pump body should be a minimum. In other words, you don't want the higher pressure water to be able to leak backwards into the low pressure side of the pump. Excess clearance will mean the pump won't move the designer's intended volume of water. The question is how will the corroded edges of the flange on your pump effect the flow rate of the pump? Without seeing what the impeller on yours looks like, and how it fits up in this flange area, I would guess that some repair would be worthwhile. Since there must be some clearance (we don't want the impeller to rub on the pump body), I think some JB Weld-type of epoxy would do the trick provided the bonding surfaces are cleaned well and the epoxy is rater for at least 250 deg F.

Thanks Ray, it is my first antique car but I have done bodywork on more modern machines. It's nice that you have easy access when you can flip the body on it side or upside down (I suppose I could have made up a rotisserie). I did study your post on the top and have it book marked. If it is convenient, I'd like to see a few photos of the area on the back of front seat (as viewed by rear passenger). I've heard carpet is supposed to come up to the 2nd horizontal rib. Also, in the front seat foot wells, it there anything on the sides of the cowl or is is just painted sheet metal?