MikeC5

Face of handles.

I bought these on Fleabay a while ago thinking they were for a mid-20s DB (as advertised). The photo was small but I get them cheap. Well as you can see, they are definitely not from a DB touring car. I can't find a part number on them anywhere but maybe someone recognizes what make/year they are from. If they are Dodge, I'll sell them at no profit ($20 plus shipping). Or if someone might like to trade for some serviceable 25 touring door handles....

All good points NTX though I suspect most antique car owner are not trying to stretch their oil change intervals. I would even hazard a guess that few put more than 1 or 2 thousand miles on the oil before it gets changed. Relative to the cost of parts, restoration, etc., oil changes are peanuts. So why test the oil? I can only see it being useful as a warning; sudden increases in lead or tin, for example, might indicate it's time to re-babbit (before major damage is done). If you test the oil at each change, you can get an idea what normal readings are. I guess if you have a good ear you can hear the warning signs before all hell breaks loose....

Keith and Lebowski, you guys nailed it. It has nothing at all to do with monetary value. It is simply the history factor which is part of the reason I 'dig' antique cars to begin with. 1925; in the heart of prohibition, the roaring twenties, etc. I know Dodge Brothers were only slightly higher on the pecking order than Model Ts, so no doubt this car did nothing more than haul families around for a good part of its life. Just one of the interesting stories is why a particular old car (especially a beat up jalopy) managed to escape the scrap drives for WW II is worth digging up IMHO. Sure it's a tiny slice of history, but why anyone would bother owning an antique car without being curious about who owned it, when, where is a bit hard for me to fathom. Privacy laws, etc. being what they are, I know it's a long shot that I'll ever find such specific information..

Yes, I do understand that would be asking for trouble. But I see no harm in reporting the city and dates/duration of registration.

I can see it maybe being worthwhile for a rare, high end car where major engine parts would have to be reverse engineered (and manufactured) if a replacement were needed. This assumes you could develop a meaningful baseline over a series of oil changes and then look for signs of major change which might indicate impending failure. Catching a bad rod bearing before the rod lets go could save an engine block...

Thanks Franklin, I had this forlorn hope that PA, of all states, would have some sympathy for such inquiries, being the home of AACA and Hershey and all. BUt I will give it a try and report back. I would be happy just knowing the cities previous owners lived in and dates the car was registered. If no names and addresses are given out then where's the harm in that? They could even charge a research fee and make some money doing it.... Merry Christmas AACA-ers!

I did search through some threads on key word 'research' but couldn't find anything specific. I have a 1925 Dodge Brothers and all I have to go on are the VIN and a windshield decal form state of PA Inspection (inspection station 6832) from 1947. Is it possible to get any cooperation from PA motor vehicle dept to search on VIN ? Would anyone out there have information on the whereabouts of inspection station 6832 in that time period?

Or a bolt cutter-type of tool. I like the house ornament (Metropolitan)...

Great! It is exciting when you fire it up after a multi-decade slumber...

Really? In an anti-vapor lock sort of way? I really can't tell what it's made of. It almost looks like a squished roll of toilet paper.

Or maybe they represent martini glasses?

Ha ha yes! I especially like the "let's have a beer" part.

Sounds good! What is the white thing above the carb?

Yep that's what I meant...

Randy, yes the ignition lock uses little springs and pins like most modern locks (unless a 1919 switch is different from 1925). I opened mine up very carefully to keep the order of the pins. Even if you did mix them up, with the lock cylinder out all it takes is studying the key and a little trial and error to get them back in the right place. I should have taken some photos of the thing apart but didn't... Just be mindful of the little springs as they can launch themselves and pins which are hard to find on a dirty garage floor..

Sure thing!

Good idea Phil.

It sounds quite plausible to me Brian. The only other thing I would add is that the triangle is thought of as the 'strongest' shape (from a structural point of view). Think of bridge trusses, etc. and so there might be some symbolism in the strength of the bond between them.

I'm stripping down the hood on my '25 and removed the corner leathers and hood pads. These were held with tubular rivets, flat head on the pads and oval head on the corners. Our two most popular purveyors of DBC parts both offer replacements with split rivets. Now I don't want to come off as one of those car wax junkies who trailer their car to shows and over restore the hell out of them but why not use the correct rivets? Was this something the DB changed along the way?

I was able to get an ignition Key from Meyers. I did have to take the switch apart to see the key number on the lock cylinder. Just carefully pry/bend up the metal tabs that hold it together. There is a member here who can make tranny lock keys, but if I recall correctly, it did require removing the lock which requires removing the transmission cover. See this thread for more info: http://forums.aaca.org/f143/transmission-lock-302791.html

My guess would be that some previous owner replaced a bad 4 point switch with a 3 point. I don't see any harm if you wire it so they come on with the headlights. The cowl lights on mine were a bugger to open. Even though they didn't appear to have any rust, it was there between the lens retainer ring and the can. There is one screw in the lens retainer ring you must remove (I'm sure you did already), then spray them liberally with WD-40 or Liquid Wrench, etc. and soak for a few days. The cowl lights have three small pins attached to the inside of the trim ring. They slide into three slots located on the housing. Then, Turn the trim ring counter clock wise about an inch. The two pieces should release.

Yea don't stick your fingers in that stuff; they'll break off!

Hi Shawn, I'm pretty sure the one pictured at the top of this thread is a 4 point switch. I'm guessing 4 point means 4 position; PARK, OFF, DIM and ON. Can you post photos of the front and back of yours? Are the switch positions legible?

Hi Nikola, I also have a 1925 touring (in process of restoration). I would welcome some pictures of yours.