MikeC5

Great!

Hello G, with the top up, this diagram shows the measurements I'm looking for. An 8 foot tape measure (even a 6 foot) is all you need to do it.

Thank you very much sir. Any luck with some patterns/drawing for the top rests?

Thanks Tony. A couple of extra holes won't hurt anything.

Thank Jason, I'll remind you.

Thanks Tony, I sent off an e-mail to check this out. Jason, I searched through my DB Newsletter CDs and was not able to find anything on re-making rubber parts. Any idea what section to look under (in the index)?

Now that I have the body off I was trying to fit the exhaust system. I'm wondering if I have the right tail pipe. There is no way I can get the tail pipe bracket to line up with the holes in the frame (see pic). I didn't buy the muffler/tailpipe from the same vendor as the pipe going from exhaust manifold to muffler. Maybe this was a mistake....

Really? I'll have to check that out. Thanks.

Yes that's what I meant. Thank for the link.

I'm not sure what they are actually called but does anyone know if reproductions of the rubber pieces that mount on top of the front axle to cushion contact with the frame if suspension bottoms out (for a 25) are available anywhere?

Any chance you can try and get to those measurements soon? I'm hoping to have them before Hershey (October 5-8).

I would agree with the above estimate based on what I see in the photos. My guess is that not much will be needed to get it to run (it is a dependable Dodge, after all). If you can find someone locally who tinkers with these things (even a Model T guy), I think it would be worth spending a little to get it running. A drivable car will certainly be better from a sales perspective. It even appears the top is in good shape. A car that can be driven-as is would be much easier to market in my (unprofessional) opinion. The fact that you have the original title is another plus. Some antique car people will pay extra for a car with track-able history. As for rusty cars, I've already lost count of the many hours spent grinding and welding. I'm doing it myself but I'm sure it would cost several thousand to have a body man do it. I've posted some progress photos later in the thread you referenced (mine).

A lot depends on condition. Look carefully at the extent of rust in the lower areas of the body. Getting this repaired can require a lot of labor (ask how I know)...

Seems like a good idea to me. I would just make very sure you prep the surface well so the stuff adheres.

Perhaps they recommend using an electric fuel pump and not even bothering to bolt on the vacuum tank....

That is a nice restro.... Whew! That was a tough read. The underneath shots show a secondary cover below the running boards. Are those supposed to be there? They will certainly need to find an uninformed buyer with a lot of extra cash and impulsive spending habits... What was it P.T. Barnum said?...

And it would be preferable to filter out any crud before it can get to the vacuum tank needle valve.

What body style is it? Keep in mind that mechanical parts like engine, transmission, rear end, wheels, radiator, suspension bits are much easier to source than body sheet metal (except for running boards/splash aprons @ Romar). You should be able to search out some assembled chassis photos and easily find photos of complete 1919 cars in the DB photo gallery. Patience is key here. Take a bunch of photos, post them here and we should be able to spot what is missing too.

I'm the same one who's been asking you for the top iron measurements. I don't have the top rests either.

Any chance you can get those measurements this weekend?

Good to hear that works in case points become really scarce.

My non-rebuilt, 40,000 mile (if I believe the odo) engine on my 25 does the same. Only after it has really warmed up does it drop a little. 4 psi doesn't sound like much but I suspect the volume/unit time would surprise you. I don't think there is much restriction on the oil flow (it's not being forced into tight clearance bearings based on what I've read- re-builders correct me if I'm wrong). I started mine one time with the oil pressure line disconnected by accident; boy did the oil **** out of the check valve fitting!

It could be water pump grease. If it's just a little bit I would just warm up the engine, shut it down and drain it after a few minutes.

Yes I did receive it Jason. There are a couple of spots on the top flange of the frame on the driver's side that can possibly use a doubler but overall it does look pretty good.

I see where the spring and ball would go in the cast piece. Anyone have a spare cable to sell?