MikeC5

I should think it would be pretty easy to source some bronze and have valve guides turned (machined on lathe). You need to research what sort of interference fit is required for bronze guides in cast iron (I have data for bronze guides in aluminum). You may also have to heat up the block in order to install them. Please let us know what you end up doing.

Many thanks Gentlemen.

I'm going to get my radiator shell re-chromed (I know original is nickel) and it was suggested I remove the DB badge. It appears to be an interference fit into the hole on the shell or is it soldered in? Anyone know the best way to gently remove it?

That was a deal even for 1973....

Thanks! A little more strengthening and then the body comes off...

Great! Good that it was simple and cheap.

That last photo shows the pinstripe I uncovered after stripping a few layers of brushed on paint. I believe this dates to the original paint job (I felt like an archaeologist unearthing some long buried artifact)...

A little progress on the body. If anyone has pics of the interior of a 24-27 touring (without seat upholstery/seat springs), could you post them here?

One of them has to be ground. Is it an original style?

Nice! Do you happen to know what the paint color code is for the blue?

Yep you can use virtually any 12V 'modern' coil. By modern I mean the typical cylindrical can-type coil that you can buy at Autozone, Pep Boys, etc.

I came across this tonight whilst surfing. No affiliation... Model T Haven - Nwe and restored bodies for sale.

Have you verified TDC (with the mark on the flywheel) vs. rotor position? Does this only happen after it is warmed up?

Does anyone happen to have a bad core from which they would remove and sell the support sheet metal (the pieces soldered on the left and right sides)?

That's cool Don. Nothing seems to be out there on repos so I'll keep an eye out for those pics.

Thanks!

Each door has a hole on top with a metal fitting liner. Are these for side curtains?

That is a funky looking rear end.... (don't take out of context)

No worries Don. Thanks.

Thanks for the tips guys.

Ah yes, I found them. $350 per pair which I suppose isn't too bad considering the used ones I've seen would take an awful lot of work to rehab.

I think the place is Howell's Sheetmetal Co. I sent them a note so we'll see...

Thank 1930, I will definitely take a look on ebay for that. I'm doing plenty of cutting/grinding welding on the body as it is.... Thanks Don, I'll look for them.

Wow those are a little worse than I'd hoped. If they come off the car without crumbling, take a few more pics from the inside surfaces. Welding in new (flat) top flanges is one thing but I don't have the tools/skills to make patches for the curved areas.

I think you're right..