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Everything posted by TomP

  1. You may be better going for their Corrosion-Resistant Silicon Bronze, they are listed under Brass, these are flat washers which will need dishing as the ones you want are different to the countersink washer, you need a coned washer without the return. My thought is to drill a hole in a piece of hardwood about 1/16" smaller than O/D and drive a conical punch into the centre. I think the originals may have been nickel plated ?
  2. Interesting link here that Dave Countrytravler posted up at my request post #5 http://forums.aaca.org/showthread.php?t=375488&p=1317799#post1317799
  3. ​Dave you are more than welcome to send any 33/34 parts in exchange for a drawing.
  4. Needed to size them up for my next project so no problem, at least they will be a record for someone. Have noted that there is up to 1/16" end float between the rotation faces i.e. 1 7/16" runs in a 1 1/2" slot.
  5. Good looking truck will watch this with interest, is the serial no. also stamped on the frame or can Chrysler Heritage trace serials from engine Nos. through their microfiche files. For sure you wont find this sort of information from any of the magazines. ​I got this one sitting in Houston waiting to ship. knobless the hinges are in the right place for you, at the back.
  6. I have a pair loose for my PD, I can get photos and dims Mod pm. unless someone comes by with the goods beforehand.
  7. A while back post #17 I asked about 3 x 5/32 punched hole on the fixed panel of the trunk, last evening on Ebay I found this badge with the same fixings but would it be correct. ​loads of money for just a badge.
  8. Must apologise for the Senior moment in the post above, the mentioned undercut is not on the grommet, it is produced when the grommet is fitted to the main bracket on assembly, in fact it is possible to split the grommet should you try to remove it from the bracket. Regarding the type of material on cleaning the surface I found that at some time a mixture of rubber and fibreglass mating had been laid-up to reinforce the degrading material underneath.
  9. Dave, I have mentioned the CI car to a couple of guys, to good to part for what it needs. Thanks)
  10. Have now secured a rebuilt PF engine with most of the other parts through to the rear brake drums so hopefully that's one thing sorted, thanks for all the replies and views. Are these horns correct for a 34, not seen them before.
  11. I'm a retired tool maker, did it for 40+ yrs, on this grommet there is a massive undercut which would mean the mould would have to be slit and have a removable loose piece. Then of course they are handed so you would need 2 moulds and then there's the material although it is rubber based it has what looks like glass fibre strands, a material I have not seen before. It may be worth while contacting the company that 1935EB used to have his vulcanised rubber mounts remade by.
  12. Hi Mike 1. Straight cut edges. 2. 21" between holes, 27" to outside giving a hole of 3", in fact they are 3" square. 3. The hole starts 3/4" below the bend where the weather strip goes between the body and the valance. 4. Suggest you look on first decade to see if ply33 list a supplier, some body must do them?? Hope that clears the muddy water.
  13. Scott I thought that was long gone if you can get that boxed up and a shipping cost we are on. Jim in TN is getting parts packed at the moment to go to Houston as I have half a container to fill, truck is already there waiting for the spares. Either pm or email with the costs and I'll give you the TN address to send. Erick I have the irons just need one more cover not sure which side but I have been talking to Scott a long time on his.
  14. Hi Bryn, I missed your first post, I'm in North Devon working on a PD Rumble Seat Coupe, can't answer your problem but will need the answer one day, sure someone will solve it. Have you posted any photos of the car on here, the only other Kew I know of is in Norfolk.
  15. Thanks Scott also ordered the owners hand book, still looking for side mount covers for the PD if you should come across a pair. Thanks
  16. ​Anyone got a spare or one that they will not be using again, condition not too important as long as the information is there, or a lead on where I might purchase a copy. Thanks
  17. Your going to have to drag that out so we can see what she's like, looks very grand for a truck, keep the photos coming.
  18. All going forward Mike, think this is what you want if not come back, no problem
  19. I understand what you are saying, but the sums don't work for me if I ship 2 cars in separate containers from different ports with different destinations and times. Therefore they both have to go as a single shipment and be delivered to me as one.​
  20. TomP

    1934 PE ??

    Thanks for your input gents, be interesting when I get it home to find out who's gauges they are, someone PM me yesterday saying it looked like 34/35 Buick. The wheels are on PE hubs but I thought they should be steel artillery. What would be the Dodge variant of the PE regarding wheel base, PE is 114". Thanks
  21. Flesh and blood can not be replaced, tin can wait. Best wishes Chris, hope things are improving.
  22. I'm looking at bringing this project to the UK, title says it's 1934 PE but am wondering if it might be from another Chrysler stable. Would appreciate all the help I can get. Thanks http://forums.aaca.org/f154/1934-pe-375329.html
  23. Good to have you back Scott, great information as always. I could do with a PM from you. Thanks
  24. TomP

    1934 PE ??

    Strange that no one can identify this Dashboard, I would have thought it to be something from the 34 Chrysler brand, come on boys, thinking caps on. Thanks from the UK
  25. Hi Bob, good luck in case I forget, this is not a difficult job, just has to be thought through, lifting the body should be easy, I used 4 x 6/1 pulley blocks rated at 300 kg each and chose suitable anchor point in the roof of my workshop. On the body I used the rad shell tie rod brackets at the top of the firewall for the front, now the back will be different for you, mines a rumble seat so I used the trunk lid mounting points. I did mine single handed with no problems, lift it, roll the frame out, drive the trailer in. Be very cautious of any type of blasting unless the metal is sound, I also made a trolley to move the body around on about 30" high, the easier the job is for your body man the easier it will be on your pocket. Hope it helps
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