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TomP

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Everything posted by TomP

  1. Steve that is stunning, your dad looked out for you well.
  2. TomP

    Early dash ID ?

    The bottom one is PC/PD not sure if it was used on earlier Plymouths, I also have a Dodge cab of the same era with one.
  3. Dave would you prefer me to delete that post.
  4. Don't want to muddy the water but this is what I have just taken from a special, the hubs are 5 holes on 4.5" pcd. The cast # 1141644N1
  5. Not a problem, I have found another possible source on FaceBook a guy in TN. Cory Davidson on the Vintage MoPar - 1930's-1950's page, got a shed load of NOS.
  6. Rareparts will have them but think you have to buy the kit. http://rareparts.com/
  7. Joe, like I said this is a one off that at some time a PE frame and front end was converted into a P/U as in my avitar. Back in 86 it was purchased as a possible factory prototype, there is a mopar article based around this truck but sadly I now don't think it was. What is the difference between a transmission brake and a diff brake, they both come off of the prop shaft?. Am I understanding it correctly that the Imperials used this diff brake set-up in the 30's , if I ever live long enough I would like to build an Imperial dual cowl recreation, not sure if my pockets are deep enough.
  8. I've just started stripping out some what of a one off, not sure if there is a model that used the trans brake to the diff or if what I have was home brewed.
  9. Chris, when you refer to cores do you mean the steel parts, I have those. The frame and body work to the cowl is PE car on 114" wheelbase so the bumpers will be standard. I will check again on their website for the catalogue data sheet. Sounds like you are making progress be it slow but there's no hurry. Thanks again.
  10. Hi Chris, hope your well, Looking at having bumper blocks restored for the PE Truck, the people you used for yours do they require the original mounting plates and also do they work on part#. Being the other side of the pond and not having done this before a little guidance goes a long way. Regards Tom
  11. TomP

    1934 PE ??

    That's almost done, bit more welding, not sure if I'm missing a hole in the starboard front?. Photo #2. Then off to the sand blasters.
  12. TomP

    1934 PE ??

    Thanks Scott for going to all that trouble, much more info than I had hoped for ideal I can put it back to right now (today). There is a notch in the underside of both the X members on the R/H side it's just the angle that the shot was taken.
  13. TomP

    1934 PE ??

    Great reply as always Scott, much appreciated. Next major problem to resolve is on the rear of the frame where the diagonal cross members join the outer rails either side of the diff, I could do with a photo of each side showing the lightning hole pattern . Most of the holes are 3"Ø others are 2.5"Ø and elongated 3"x 2"? My intention is to plate the holes and come back to near original, ( some butcher fitted a V8 along the way)
  14. TomP

    1934 PE ??

    Thanks for your comments Scott you have made it all very clear. Another question for you, on my PD there are 2 timber bearers between the body and the frame but nothing on the PE, if there should be bearers on the PE any idea of what type of timber they would have used? Thanks
  15. Thanks gents, missed this post, my PD was factory fitted with side mounts but along the way pre 1970 the covers got lost. Next between 1978 and 2002 the side irons went the same way, the photo below was taken in 1970 showing the irons and artillery wheels fitted. I shipped in a load of parts end of 2014 with all the bits to complete the PD and enough to give me a head start on my PE Pickup.
  16. TomP

    1934 PE ??

    Thanks for your replies, Scott your entry higher up the thread makes much more sense now, do you feel that it might be easier to find 35/36 rims and hub caps as I have neither. I do have a surplus of 33's but they are wrong for the 34 project, think there could be 3 spare once I've sorted the 6 I need for the PD. Thanks again.
  17. TomP

    1934 PE ??

    I think I have confused myself with the correct wheel rims for a PE can you please confirm which is correct, I only ask because in a recent post on the Dodge forum oval hole artilleries were offered for sale. Appreciate your comments, I will be needing 5x at some time, thanks
  18. Agree and it's not difficult to start a new thread, another thing to remember is that it's easier to find your own enquiries later down the line.
  19. TomP

    photo needed

    ​Is there not an interchange manual available ?
  20. ​On my PE unfortunately no numbers in that position, the cab and bed should come off in the next week or so let's see if that turns up anything.
  21. Don't give up I also have a 33 PDX Detroit build for a Johannesburg order, the previous owner had misplaced the serial plt, Jim B. at POC had it on record, I was able to get a build card and after that I sent a letter to Classic and Performance Cars Africa. They posted it under letters to the editor and a reader had recovered it in 1970, the photo is his Pontiac leaving Bloemfontein bound for Durban 500 miles east.
  22. Ian that's somewhere I've not spent a lot of time on, ply33 said a while back that he had heard on later models than his had the serial on the frame but had never seen evidence of it, I will spend some time in that area tomorrow, lets hope Plymouth used the same method as Dodge.
  23. Regarding the frame # there is no ref. of it on a Plymouth Build Card, my thinking is that on the track once the engine was installed, that # would be stamped on the frame in 3 places, close to the 2 front running board bracket and over the rear wheel arch, all on the outside of the left hand rail. The engines were picked at random from a batch but the body was fitted the serial # were fitted in-sequence, this is why Chrysler Historical can only issue build cards from serial #. Unfortunately although they have the information they do not have a cross reference in data base form to issue build cards from engine #. I know you said they were expensive but that's big bucks, I shall make both sets for mine, I have another toe board to make LHD but it's not much different to the RHD I made back a while.
  24. You could try these people but as Dave mentioned they won't be cheap plymouthdoctor@netscape.net Wayne R. Brandon Plymouth Doctor Restoration Parts 517-625-PLYM (7596) Office
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