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TomP

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Everything posted by TomP

  1. TomP

    1934 PE ??

    Need a dimension from the front of the cowl vent to the front of the cowl where it steps down for the hood lacing approx. at the centre line
  2. TomP

    Got me a 41 truck

    Thanks for the lead, will give Roberts a try.
  3. I'm no expert but it maybe worth posting it on the Marmon page
  4. Just an update, have received this attachment from Chrysler Historical via the seller. Chrysler had stopped putting the serial number on the frames in 1926. In 1927, the only location for the serial number was on the FEDCO plate, which would have been attached to the instrument panel. It would consist of letters and numbers and been about 6 digits long. I hope this helps. Time moves on and this car is no longer of interest to me, thanks for all your help. Tom
  5. Unfortunately the seller is unable to find a serial No. on the frame, as I already have a Plymouth with an incorrect serial No. on the title plus being across the pond it would be foolish on an investment basis to pursue this Model 50 . Thank you for your help and should this car be of interest to someone here I am willing to pass your details on. The seller is in IN .
  6. This is the latest, still don't see anything within the crest, unless that's a 7 to the bottom R/H under LLL.
  7. Gents, another question while waiting for the info to come through. Where would the frame # be located, also any idea on what the lead time is from Chrysler Historical for build cards (that's is they were available that far back) Thanks
  8. Just goes to show a little bit of knowledge is a bad thing, I'm lost so will leave you gentleman to solve it once we have all the details. Thanks
  9. Never to old to learn, that is a great piece of information, thanks for posting. According to Tod's post the R at the end of the FedCo has a relationship to the first character.
  10. The owner's out on a trip so won't get an answer before the wkend.
  11. Would the engine # be behind the hooter?
  12. Hi Viv, interesting input, If this car was first registered in a state that used the engine # as it's serial # that would explain why it is on the title (have a Ply with the same thing but am unable to get a build card for it due to the serial plt. missing) The car is definitely a model 50 Thanks John, think I will get the owner to lift the hood and check the engine #
  13. Always on top form with the data, thank you, I added the black lettering from the details the owner had given me plus what I had already gleaned from the net. Have emailed the owner in IN asking him to check in the crest area for another letter. My gut feeling is that although a good looking car it might be a parts car. You mentioned the 1st photo, I think that is a Bud body # but not sure.
  14. Hi Tod, must apologise for not contacting you direct, not sure how you came up with that # but I trust your judgement. What I am up against is I must make sure of the authenticity before shipping to the UK, this is part of an email I have received " Tom.....serial # 82692A....is what I have found.....let me know if you don't think this is a valid #.....I sure don't know, but that is what is on the car..... ....also on the title when I bought it..................................regards. " Now that doesn't tie-in with your comments above. Shame because it's a cracking little car which would sit well in the Vintage London - Brighton run, but must be correct to obtain entry.
  15. Can someone decode this for me, I'm thinking of buying this Model 50 but if the plate# doesn't tie-up I will walk away. Thanks
  16. Your right Tod, an engineering practice is to leave machined faces unpainted, gasket fit etc. also depending where the paint is it could act as an electrical insulator especially with positive grounding.
  17. All looking good Chris, will watch with interest, I may have taken on too much, 3 on the go now. take care Tom
  18. Hi Joe, need to explain the P25 trans is in the UK about 70 miles down the road but the guy selling it wants a shed load of money for it, all I know is what is written above, he won't say the it came out of my PT125 but it does have the truck bell housing and floor change. I already have a trans on its way to me that I bought on Craigslist which is complete with all ancillaries from a 46 Dodge PU, that's down in TN waiting shipping, but I need another for my 34 PE PU that's why I enquirer about yours. So from what you say it's a P25 engine which has been changed to take the truck bell housing and manual 4 on the floor box. Understand what you say about finding more to do once you start stripping down, to replace the rings the end caps come of the big ends etc etc . I wait to see what you have. Thanks Tom
  19. Need so guidance from the pros. am offered the above engine and because I know nothing about these engines, a few pointers wouldn't go amiss. This engine came to the UK with the PT125 I purchased before Christmas but has only now come to my knowledge. The engine no. is P 25*379198* and am I correct in thinking the 3 stands for Belvedere Plaza 6 - P25-1 Savoy 6 - P25-2 Belvedere 6 - P25-3 This is part of an email I had from the guy that sold me the truck. "here is a link to the engine running also the details from comperssion test He did a compression check after shutdown and it shows valve work needed. The reading were as follows: 1- 35 2- 140 3- 137 4- 75 5- 61 6- 140 He rechecked the low ones after putting a little oil in the cylinders to seal the rings. 1- 40 4- 82 5- 68" a couple of questions, If you look closely the Bell Housing is the wider type fitted to the Pick-ups, would the Belvedere also use that bell housing?Not shown but it comes with a 4 speed floor change gearbox, as above would that be standard to Belvedere?With the firing order 153624 the 3 cylinders that are down fire after each other 415 which makes me wonder if there is anything significant about those resultsMight I be able to fit new valves and rings or would I be better to go the whole hog and rebuild it Your comments would be much appreciated. (I am capable of undertaking the rebuild myself)
  20. Hi Joe, if the trans is complete I could be interested, if so can you pm me photos. Thanks Tom
  21. TomP

    Got me a 41 truck

    Does anyone know about the correct Hood script which goes along the sides of a 41, I've found this image with a note that states it's 7 1/2" long and is it the same as a 40 without the curve to fit the nose. Never seen an original. Thanks for looking.
  22. TomP

    Got me a 41 truck

    Thanks John, think I may have to visit the P12 site for advise on the Drive train , great find though.
  23. After looking for almost a year this one turned up only 70 miles from home, think these trucks PT 125 are becoming rare.with only about 30 registered with the Plymouth Owners Club. I forgot to mention I live in the UK and not sure if there's another one in stock condition over here, it was imported a couple of months ago from New Mexico where it's spent most of it's life, Produced with the last few hundred trucks in the Los Angeles plant before trucks ceased as a Plymouth Line. Being 75 yrs old it has lost a few bits and pieces some of which my be difficult to find and right now I don't know what is unique to this model and what can be used from other Chrysler products. The list is what's missing. Both hood Plymouth scripts left and right Centre front brightwork from the crank handle hole to the hood sides which I think would be 3 pieces. Headlight chrome bezels 2 Complete speedo. Drive Train + all the ancillaries At present it is with the importer but should have it home in a couple of weeks, think I would be pushing my luck wrapping it in festive paper, will post photos when it arrives.
  24. Thanks Scott had a feeling that was the case the old memory lets me down at times, on the 34 found the frame/engine # but of course that does me no good with serial # with historical records, that was one of those strange occurrences where the title used the engine # + the yr for the serial #. Any progress on your 34 Dodge?
  25. After a break on this PD I've picked up in readiness to fit the body back to the frame, my paint shop have suggested that I mount the body about 6" above the frame to make their job easier and save me some money. While getting it ready for the lift I have noticed a stamped # on the firewall can someone decode it for me, #25194 this is positioned in line with the coil to the right.
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