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TomP

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  1. TomP

    1934 PE ??

    Thanks knobless plenty of reference to Golden Beige/ Tan but it makes me wonder if I might be pursuing the wrong path, as Jim said up the page a bit his chip shows more red than gold. I am lead to believe from a very knowledgeable source the Carrotte No.3 was a Burnt Orange Inter-mix 1384. where Golden Beige and Golden Tan are Inter-mix 1518 (PPG IM 1267 DuPont 202-31336) Carrotte No.3 doesn't get listed any where else other than Jim's entry for DuPont 246-30698 which I am still waiting for my paint shop to try and make a sample.
  2. TomP

    1934 PE ??

    Hi Jim, thanks for your input I will take the DuPont formula to my local guy and get him to mix up a sample provided he can interchange with his system and report back, your right about the colour of the chip being oxide but I have been lead to believe that over the years the have deteriorated. The chip I have below is a reproduction of a reproduction and we all know there's no better way than having the finished article in front of you. Thanks again for taking the time.
  3. TomP

    1934 PE ??

    Been a while since I added progress on this one, I am now trying to find paint color I know what I want, back in 1934 showcase demonstrators for an extra $13 could be delivered in a Burnt Orange by Ditlzer Color Company of Detroit MI. this was a Ditz-Lac Intermix Formulae IM-1384 Carrotte No.3 made up of the following tints 3.5 oz. Tinting White No. 3372.5 oz. Tinting Black No. 3714.5 oz. Tinting Orange No. 4821.5 oz. Tinting Red No. 356.5 oz. Tinting Maroon No. 5292.5 oz. Tinting Deep Yellow No. 42The Ditz-Lac Tinting system required only 17 different tints to achieve the desired colors offered Big problem is I have been unable to trace in interchange that has any meaning apart from a reference to Ford Carrotte-Red The late Jim Carmine's PE pictured below is what I believe the color would be, most of the chips available have faded, also the Dodge but I am unable to find reference of it being a Dodge color. Any help would be great. Thank you
  4. I do have a 1934 Plymouth PE that had skirted fenders as standard, I am thinking that because of the 2/3 yrs lead time from design to production these ideas would have been on the drawing board. Who knows what might have been had sales performed better.
  5. Thank you for your quick reply dep5 you must have a good amount of knowledge on these cars, are you an owner by chance? Would it be fair to say that of the 14 1932 some were returned to LeBaron for update of sheet metal and trim may not all have had the skirted fenders this is on the basis that delivery of all 50 cars were delivered in the 32/33 time frame, this is taken from http://www.imperialclub.org/Yr/1933/33LeBaron/index.htl
  6. Have started to find a few things different between models and would like your input regarding what was right for the genuine 1933, on one site they listed a CL* which is again would be good to clarify. Below we have 2 different of styles of fenders and from the driving possition 2 different styles of machine turned dashboards.
  7. From my experience it is a pity they are not able to cross reference Serial # to engine # many cars loose the vin plate for whatever reason but the frame # is the engine # prefixed with the model code, no serial # no build card. The other thing is payment from the UK,, I'm sure at one time I could send a Debit Card #, money orders in $$ don't exist. Regarding the comments on the service staff Danielle Szostak-Viers has gone way beyond trying to fulfil my requests.
  8. There is plenty of solid steel in these bodies, I think I would select suitable positions drill though the panel and back-up with 3/8" or 1/2" plate to tap the belt fixing screw, would also drill and tap 2 small holes to attach the fixing plates to the body so that it is permanent part of the body. Better to go on the heavy side than trying to make it pretty. Come back if you need more info.
  9. Thanks for the offer but will hold out for the 146" as yourself that 1" CL/CG makes all the difference. Do you know by chance what the centre hinge length of the CG and the cowl length, I do have a contact in Alabama that has over 100 top end cars all restored but short of making a visit don't think that would go anywhere, knew of another guy in TN but unfortunately he passed.
  10. F&J to be honest I don't know, the hood side sticking out of pic 2 is 32/33 don't think it's cut down, 1931 used 6 different W/B frames and in 32/33 there were 8, in fact 31/33 they used 12 from 109" to 146", thing the rear lamps are aftermarket turn signals but could be wrong,
  11. Thanks F&J for showing an interest if at all will only go for the real deal modelled from this one 18' long 4 door with side screens. Still out on the L/ Right hand drive to but feel it might be easier to sell on if left one day. This 2 door was a production model in 1931.
  12. Thanks Bill that's great Think I may have enough to get the plan view, the side view should be reasonably straight forward having my 33 and 34 frames both accessible. Am thinking of boxing with lightening holes on the inside for added strength..
  13. Would appreciate it if someone could come up with some dimensions for me. Frame width at widest point. Depth of frame at rocker panels. Front track Many thanks.
  14. Thanks for your thoughts but don't think it's an option in my situation
  15. This is excellent 28 I am able to determine the lengths but am lost on the width and depth, I will get there never have done easy. Thank you
  16. The PE frame is from a restoration that I am working on at the moment. The CL will be a brand new build from stock steel this is why I am trying to find dimensional drawing, I am the opinion that the frame will be longer, wider and deeper than the PE which in fact is quite different from the PD Coupe I also own.
  17. Currently working on my PE frame, just to indicate that I know what's required.
  18. All I have is an idea, would never be able to afford the real deal, I have excellent body building skills and being retired only work for myself. Plenty of people replicating the likes of Bugatti's but they don't push the buttons. Appearance wise this must look authentic, I have a complete donor drive train and running gear (non Chrysler) that has been in store for more than 8 yrs now and needs to be used or dumped. Once I can find detailed dimensional drawings I can draft files to have the frame laser cut ready for fabrication, only way I can undertake this project is to work from the ground up. Hoping someone can give me a link for drawings. Thanks
  19. Looking for detailed information on the Frame/Chassis, working on an idea for a Sunday driver without busting the bank, all I know at this stage is 146" W/B Thanks for your help
  20. Looking for 34 PE Front bench seat and hood ornament
  21. Hi Tod, just picked up on this thread, had been mine I would have found another serviceable unit to keep the car mobile and at my leisure check the original out, plenty of these engines out there, I paid $450 for a running drive train. Regarding the ramp I picked up an almost identical 2 post,4 yrs low use $900 and not looked back, my PD sat on it 4 months now, removed the wheels and have clear space under. Win Win.
  22. Can you post a photo of the Coupe bench seat. Thanks Tom
  23. Hi John, looking for 1934 PE Lower Control Arm Pins and Bushes 4 sets, these go on the inner ends of the bottom wishbones Detail 60 in parts book front threaded pin #620781 2 off, rear threaded pin #627439 2 off. Detail 61 in parts book threaded bush #620782 4 off. Many thanks Tom
  24. Been away for a while, not enough hrs in the day, glad to see your back on the case.
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