TomP

Scott for sure it's got coil spring independent front suspension which was only used on the PE . This is the truck mentioned in the Allpar article you wrote about, I have the 1986 title (copy) http://www.allpar.com/history/plymouth/pickups.html

Thanks Scott, that put an interesting twist on it, possibly Dodge cab with PE hood and front fenders, 37? wheels and dump box, don't know what the frame is until it's home.

Received some more photos before it went into the container, perhaps someone can shed light on it's make-up. The belt line looks to remain level with the doors aposed to sweeping upwards as it goes around the back corner but I've not seen one's that's like my photos. In the first pic top L/H does the beaded up-stand behind the 'B' post look familular?

Hi Abe got some shots today, it looks like a couple of bolts possibly 1/2" bolt the rad core through a U shaped bracket into the frame, the U shape could well be part of the rad outer frame? Note the fender brackets also fix to the U shaped bracket

Not sure if this will help but with the lack of replies I'll have a go. I am working on a PD with side mounts and I am of the opinion that the difference in the wheelbase only affect the hood/fender dims. if I'm wrong it will bring the experts out of hiding. The PC w/b 107" against the PD w/b 112" so there is 5" between the 2 models, Photo 1, 7/16" x 20 UNF Photo 2, 1/4" flat x 1 1/8" tapped hole 5/16" from end 5/16" x 16 UNC Photo 3, 2 1/4" thread The side panel of the hood just below the hinge is 45" on the PD, a lot of guess work here but hope it helps.

I also find that interesting, the early photos I have on mine shows 34 steel artilleries, I wonder if it was any thing to do with the rubber stamp they used?

Dave hope this helps, 1933 Plymouth PD Plant is Detriot serial # 2,000,001 to 2,186,951 RHD Rumble Seat Coupe 9/6/33 Motor PD 1001 to PD 195997 Shipped to Johannesburg 9/12/33 There are 2 ways of ordering a build card, a direct copy or a copy with decoding http://www.chryslergroupllc.com/company/Heritage/Heritage%20Documents/Chrysler%20Historical%20Services/Build_Record_Order_Form.pdf

POC have advised me that the serial No. on the title is an engine No. with 34 tacked on the end, is it known if Chrysler Historical can cross ref engine No. to serial No.? (I have a copy of the 1986 title)

Would this be a 1935, it's on a very late PE.

Thanks for your input Scott, can't wait to get it home to find out what it actually is, interesting on the 10 & 12 spoke artilleries my PD was originally purchased with 16" artillery but now has correct 17" wire wheels. Think my PE started out as a 4 door Sedan and had a dump box prior to 1986, hope I can get the serial No. from the frame, time will tell.

​While browsing through the Plymouth section I came across a PT50 with similar wheels can anyone confirm?

​Looks like you've found a good one there, look forward to your progress.

The screws are 1/4" x 20 tpi UNC hope the photos help.

You may be better going for their Corrosion-Resistant Silicon Bronze, they are listed under Brass, these are flat washers which will need dishing as the ones you want are different to the countersink washer, you need a coned washer without the return. My thought is to drill a hole in a piece of hardwood about 1/16" smaller than O/D and drive a conical punch into the centre. I think the originals may have been nickel plated ?

Interesting link here that Dave Countrytravler posted up at my request post #5 http://forums.aaca.org/showthread.php?t=375488&p=1317799#post1317799

​Dave you are more than welcome to send any 33/34 parts in exchange for a drawing.

Needed to size them up for my next project so no problem, at least they will be a record for someone. Have noted that there is up to 1/16" end float between the rotation faces i.e. 1 7/16" runs in a 1 1/2" slot.

Good looking truck will watch this with interest, is the serial no. also stamped on the frame or can Chrysler Heritage trace serials from engine Nos. through their microfiche files. For sure you wont find this sort of information from any of the magazines. ​I got this one sitting in Houston waiting to ship. knobless the hinges are in the right place for you, at the back.

I have a pair loose for my PD, I can get photos and dims Mod pm. unless someone comes by with the goods beforehand.

A while back post #17 I asked about 3 x 5/32 punched hole on the fixed panel of the trunk, last evening on Ebay I found this badge with the same fixings but would it be correct. ​loads of money for just a badge.

Must apologise for the Senior moment in the post above, the mentioned undercut is not on the grommet, it is produced when the grommet is fitted to the main bracket on assembly, in fact it is possible to split the grommet should you try to remove it from the bracket. Regarding the type of material on cleaning the surface I found that at some time a mixture of rubber and fibreglass mating had been laid-up to reinforce the degrading material underneath.

Dave, I have mentioned the CI car to a couple of guys, to good to part for what it needs. Thanks)

Have now secured a rebuilt PF engine with most of the other parts through to the rear brake drums so hopefully that's one thing sorted, thanks for all the replies and views. Are these horns correct for a 34, not seen them before.

I'm a retired tool maker, did it for 40+ yrs, on this grommet there is a massive undercut which would mean the mould would have to be slit and have a removable loose piece. Then of course they are handed so you would need 2 moulds and then there's the material although it is rubber based it has what looks like glass fibre strands, a material I have not seen before. It may be worth while contacting the company that 1935EB used to have his vulcanised rubber mounts remade by.

Hi Mike 1. Straight cut edges. 2. 21" between holes, 27" to outside giving a hole of 3", in fact they are 3" square. 3. The hole starts 3/4" below the bend where the weather strip goes between the body and the valance. 4. Suggest you look on first decade to see if ply33 list a supplier, some body must do them?? Hope that clears the muddy water.