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TomP

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  1. I'm looking at bringing this project to the UK, title says it's 1934 PE but am wondering if it might be from another Chrysler stable. Would appreciate all the help I can get. Thanks http://forums.aaca.org/f154/1934-pe-375329.html
  2. Good to have you back Scott, great information as always. I could do with a PM from you. Thanks
  3. TomP

    1934 PE ??

    Strange that no one can identify this Dashboard, I would have thought it to be something from the 34 Chrysler brand, come on boys, thinking caps on. Thanks from the UK
  4. Hi Bob, good luck in case I forget, this is not a difficult job, just has to be thought through, lifting the body should be easy, I used 4 x 6/1 pulley blocks rated at 300 kg each and chose suitable anchor point in the roof of my workshop. On the body I used the rad shell tie rod brackets at the top of the firewall for the front, now the back will be different for you, mines a rumble seat so I used the trunk lid mounting points. I did mine single handed with no problems, lift it, roll the frame out, drive the trailer in. Be very cautious of any type of blasting unless the metal is sound, I also made a trolley to move the body around on about 30" high, the easier the job is for your body man the easier it will be on your pocket. Hope it helps
  5. Take a look here http://forums.aaca.org/f154/1934-pe-375329.html
  6. Thanks for putting those all in one place Dave, find the Chrysler range very interesting especially that it was the cheap end of the market. Was the fact that they survived the Wall St. crash made them more obtainable.
  7. I know that the car dash boards were changed on a regular basis, just wondered if it was the same on the trucks.
  8. ​Hi Dave , nice looking truck thanks for adding the photos, did you by any chance get 1 of the dash board?
  9. I have already exchanged emails with Dave, he's got what I want but it would mean shipping 2 cars, 1 on the East and 1 on the West coast. haven't done the sums on hauling from Jamestown, CA to Houston TX but it is 1900 miles
  10. Hi Eric..Please send photosto the email address I sent you, thanks
  11. TomP

    1934 PE ??

    Can you identify these parts :- In Pic 2 the elongated holes above the dash and down the side of the A post are the same as my PD. Thanks for looking.
  12. Looking for a complete drive train from the fan to the diff with all the ancillaries. What I have is a rolling chassis and body that at sometime the engine unit has been removed and lost.
  13. So that's the toe board as close to finished apart from the fixing holes, also made-up a cover to go over the diff inspection hole, got a feeling these were either leather or waxed canvas on the originals and that the steel covers didn't come in until later but sure I'll be told it's wrong.
  14. I think the hand brake is identical to yours, not sure how much room there will be to press the starter pedal with the hand brake lever between your legs. It looks like the throttle linkage has been modified, some more RHD photos for your reference.
  15. Thanks Tod, your office is never closed. If I'm seeing correctly the throttle rod passes over the top of the gear box where on a RHD the linkage to the carburettor is much simpler being that the pedal is on that side. The colour of the paint don't matter, the metal doesn't mind.
  16. Thanks for your replies, sorry about no photos, let me know if there's still a problem. What I see is the last pic as an att.
  17. Bump for Scott. Chris any idea what these treaded holes are for 1/4" unified 4 off ​Thanks
  18. Currently making a replacement toe board, this being RHD handed spare are few and far between. Can you conform the arrangement of the hand brake lever?? The first photo is of a LHD toe board, notice the cutout for the parking brake lever is to the right of the gear lever. Pic 2 is my RHD pedal box. What I have done is to mirror the toe board photo to get what I want (work from the right remembering it is a left hooker) but am I right in thinking I don't need to flip the parking brake slot. If you look closely you can just about make out the pencil lines for the P brake cutout. Thanks for looking.
  19. That new upstand piece is looking good, will that be spot welded in position? On the red body is that the 2 trim pieces that go over the rear valance and wing (fender) joint, that I spied closes to the camera.
  20. Here's the front one same as before Blue arrow to front.
  21. ​Chris provided I'm looking at the correct part it's a bit of a toughie, there is hardly any difference, what I did notice was that the outside edge had more angle to the side and the corner rad was slightly bigger. In the photos I took the right hand side bumper off to get a better look, the blue end is the front. [ATTACH=CONFIG]243097[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]243098[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]243099[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]243100[/ATTACH] Sorry about the quality of the pics,
  22. ​Chris provided I'm looking at the correct part it's a bit of a toughie, there is hardly any difference, what I did notice was that the outside edge had more angle to the side and the corner rad was slightly bigger. In the photos I took the right hand side bumper off to get a better look, the blue end is the front. ​Sorry about the quality of the pics,
  23. ​All looking good Chris, you must have deep pockets, I'll pull the cover off my chassis tomorrow and get some photos of the rear bumper blocks, ment to do it earlier but slipped my mind.
  24. These holes have the appearance of punched rather than drilled and inside they are not easy to run a nut on because of the cross brace, had there been 4, I would have guessed they might have been for emblems, vertical for Plymouth, horizontal for the Dodge Wings. Perhaps some one else will know, Thanks Mr T
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