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TomP

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Everything posted by TomP

  1. Chris the stands are the same, what's different is the bucket fixing. Both have bucket fixings welded to them but of course one is round and the other is integral with the licence plate .
  2. TomP

    1933 plymouth

    Hi, I have a 33 PD Coupe, all I have under the front seat is a hole in the ply, at least now I know what should fill it. Thanks
  3. ​Is it known if the floor pan used on the PD came from earlier models where that cover had a purpose, just a thought. My reason for asking was that if you take a line between the 2 uprights that support the parcel shelf it comes over top of the cover, now I am assuming that the panel behind the seat that divides the cabin from the rumble seat fixes to those uprights as shown in the photo below of a PE.
  4. Interesting group of shots Erick, perhaps some one can tell me what the inspection cover is for?
  5. Hi Erick, I am in the process of looking to making the bars myself as I haven't had any luck trying to locate them, perhaps you can send me photos, you have email address ref luggage rack grommets. Thanks​
  6. Thanks for the information, but would you have any idea what the 'R' means?
  7. The 33 wire wheel caps I have are steel backed with a brass skin, on the inside of the steel backer is stamped the Chrysler/Dodge/Desoto/Plymouth logo. Would these be originals or repro?
  8. Hi Chris, loose fit coming on nicely, thanks for taking the time to post it up for us. Not sure if I have asked you this before but finally will there be a cover piece over the join between the gas tank apron and the fenders as in the photo below? or is that a different apron to the one we have
  9. Hi Scott thanks for the information, wkend didn't go to plan sorry. Regarding the difference in the 'B' hole position which is the locking hole I can play that by ear and put it in during assembly. Dave I think you will find the cast brackets have pt. No. as mine below, have not checked the parts book but the Nos. are 612782/3
  10. Scott that information is brilliant and answers all my questions, it was the locking screw holes that were muddying the water, if you get time perhaps you could sketch-up the curved link which would make life a lot easier for me. Your comment on the different combinations would explain what all the other holes are there for. All I will be missing then is the Plymouth shield and the protection runners. Thank you so much for your post.
  11. While looking through a box of parts I found the Left hand luggage rack bracket so that's part of the mystery solved but it brings another problem, I now have the Luggage Rack and the 2 brackets but NO linkage,so if somebody has a sketch or photos of the links and where they fit it would help. Not sure if the rack on a 34 Dodge was similar but I have found http://forums.aaca.org/f143/slow-progress-but-getting-there-331466-19.html Post # 463 although I can't get my head round how it would look in the laid down position because there are 2 holes at the front of the bracket that seam to be fixed to the same link preventing it from moving. Some time ago I tried to sort it using hardboard links but it's difficult without the body being on to judge the position.
  12. They are listed here srpmstreetrods.com Pt No 11-0119 but I noticed the emblem's it at the top, were they different on other years?
  13. ​OK regarding the paper and ink used, have been to our local library today and found out that they only use achieve paper in the photocopiers, their prints were used on the main dashboard which was much more cost effective than home printing. The smaller pieces were printed at home using HP Everyday paper and HP ink jet cartridges and according to HP this is a good combination for lasting prints, which leaves the question of the effect of heat that I can't answer.
  14. If you go back to post #15 pic 3 all the holes are there on the painted dash, I was thrown by the 2 small holes either side of the large hole on the dummy which lined up with an oval plate that was with the ignition switch but that was wrong and I'm thinking that the ignition switch goes in the bottom right of the instrument cluster. On the left side there are 2 holes at the bottom close together, am I right in thinking that the freewheeling cable is about the size of the speedo cable and is the second hole an extra?
  15. I had wondered that after I had cut through the paper thinking the ignition switch went there but the hole wasn't big enough, I should have had my owners handbook with me. No great job to redo dummy lid but where you say the knob should go the hole is 3/8" dia instead of 3/16".
  16. Interesting comments , first the good news, both the varnish and lacquer have UV filters, the varnish states "UV filters protect against yellowing and colour fade " and the lacquer " All our clear lacquers contain UV inhibitors / filters as they significantly extend the life of the coating ". Now as far as the paper goes I can't say but will check early next wk. At the outset I had no idea if it would even give a presentable result, so the experiment has been worth while, whether it will have longevity time will tell on this car. My main concern was to keep the ingress of moisture out, heat from the sun is not a problem in the UK so I didn't take that into account, all I can suggest on that is to do a trial on a glove box lid and dummy lid if some one could come up with the parts and I'll send them back to be put out in the sun under glass. I do have a question on the assembled dash I have a large hole in the middle of the dummy lid, I would say it's about 1" dia and also goes through the main dashpanel. I would add there is still more coats to bring the colour down.
  17. Thanks so much for your good comments, problem over here in the UK there is nothing to compare it with other than photos left on the net, I think I'm right in saying that POC only has 4/5 members currently registered from UK. You have given me the confidence to go forward and today I will mock-up the add-on parts to get an idea of the finished panel. Mr T. your opinion is held in high regard. Bill my intention is to add finish photos to a web page I am in the process of collating.
  18. ​Just had a break in the weather and thought I would get the main dash under-way, my only concern is does it look too uniform? I knew at the start it would not look authentic but because I have veneered it is it to pretty. The colour will darken with layers of varnish, this photo is print only and it will match the top section. Right Hand Drive
  19. It looks like the main dash panel is welded in place, somebody who stripes these for a living may come by and say different but as I see it, it can't be removed without some force being applied. would seam that the design of fitting the top insert was changed between your build and mine Mr T., mine is a Detroit September build or perhaps where the body styles came from??
  20. I have answered my own question, fortunately my dash is completely bear, so I struck my head or almost through the instrument cluster hole, when I first read the thread I had thought there must be a tray or something to collect any water that enters the vent, sorry MR T hope I've replied before you got your camera out.
  21. I am restoring a 33 Plymouth PD R/S should there be a rain collector under the vent? all I have is the vent lid and opening linkage, any chance of posting photos of the underside of the vent. Many thanks
  22. I checked today and pretty sure it's spot welded down the front side of the 'A' pillar also there is a weld at the top corner close to the screen opening, this weld gets covered by the top dash insert. On that subject mine has threaded hank bushes in the 4 fixings so I don't have those rubber expanding bushes. The dash does have 4 3/4" dia depressions where the earlier dashes were pierced thru. I'll take my camera with me tomorrow.
  23. Hi Billy, thanks for your kind words, I'm chuffed with the results, just the big piece to do but it is all made up of mainly three oval holes for the instrument cluster, glove box and dummy glove box lid. ​The art of decoupage, modern colour printers and time.
  24. ​Perhaps I didn't make myself clear, it was the dash panel itself that I was questioning as to whether that is removable or not. If it has to be done in situe it will have to wait for the better weather, chilly and damp here now. ​Thanks again for the excellent work you do on the PD's and others.
  25. Hi Dwight glad you like it, there was no way I wanted to spend £400 + shipping for a kit I would only use once and if I'd wanted to save more I could have taken the files on a memory stick to the print shop and saved the ink on my printer. It may be a fix for someone that's got a repair because you can change the final colour by the tint in the varnish, I finished with 7 coats of clear and 3 of light oak, the more light oak used the greener it looked but it also makes it darker, if that makes sense.
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