Oldtech

As DB says, one turn or maybe just 3/4. and start the flapper spring adjustment flush with the lock tang and work from there, assuming the correct spring of course.

I suspect you have a wear ridge that it doesn't want to slide over. Try a piece of emery tape and clean up the housing behind the ball joint.

Remember the ground fault could be anywhere. Body to fender, fender to light bucket, body to frame. Troubleshooting, like Bloo said, is the way.

Considering where we started, (just to have yard brakes), it looks like there isn't a quick fix. I'm fairly sure the piston will be stuck at the end of it's travel. While it could soften up and come loose it looks like the only solution is to pull the master cylinder and rebuild it.

Take the carb off and clean thoroughly for a start. Sounds like more than the idle jet plugged.

If you post down on the pre-war Buick forum there are lots there with advice.

Rears on Standard is a regular axle with a hub splined to the axle and a roller bearing. Master is a full floating with a ball bearing in the wheel hub and no load on the axle. The hub is larger and the spokes shorter.

Tool for adjusting differential side gears

If you haven't moved the ring gear adjustments it will be back where it was. If it was quiet, and there isn't a lot of backlash I would suggest leaving it. But Check everything while you are in there.

My perhaps uneducated guess is that this may be a Reo. They used that parallel subframe to mount the engine, and at least some had the 3/4 rear springs.

Bloo is asking that the # 1 cylinder is on compression. On a 4 stroke engine it only fires every second revolution. You can be on the timing mark, but not the compression stroke, NO GO. Hence the "thumb test"

That is correct firing order.

It should not run worth a hoot without the condenser. The condenser strengthens the spark by storing reverse emf then releasing it as the coil discharges. It also prevents the points burning from arcing. and No, condensers don't care how many cylinders you have. Most automotive condensers are in that .2 mfd range.

Is this a new clutch that was just installed, or has the car run with it before? Wondering if it's just stuck or if there is an issue with the adjustment or installation.

I'm thinking stationary engine.

I wouldn't worry too much if its only a pint over after sitting. I would just let it drain down to the filler and call it good. Pics of the floor look icky, but most of us have been there.

I too am wondering if you heat riser is stuck shut putting excess heat on the intake.

Yes, that looks correct. Thanks.

Great, Thank you. Learn something new every day.

I'm likely too late with any advice but... If you end up removing the carrier MARK the big bearing adjusters with a punch before removing. You will be able to get them within a turn, and the punch marks give you the original position to adjust from. ( hopefully this shouldn't need to be done). The pinion shaft lock screw only comes right out if you remove the right bearing cap, but as Bloo pointed out, the pin is out and that's all that matters. You should be able to unscrew the nut by holding the side gear as the stub of the axle is splined to it.

Here's an upside down picture.

I had decided it wasn't Ford. Got a year?

Can anyone identify this "rear tub" from a touring car. It is a smaller one and the seats were leatherette, not real leather. Strange feature is the corner pieces are separate parts so mad in 5 pieces instead of the usual three. So I'm thinking cheaper car.

That looks like a fun place to visit. Do you have any other pics of that first car?

Some vehicles of this era just had a float and a wire or gage to indicate engine oil level. I know Studebaker had this in the 20's