20 T Speedster

Another long shot - I have some castings that were made probably in the 1960's for some early car - most likely from the brass era. The only clue is a P/N cast into some of them: 49703L. The overall length is just over 6 inches and the hole is 5/8". Anyone recognize these? Should I save them or scrap them?

For comparison, here's a more common oil gauge from an early 1920's Dodge, same manufacturer:

You may get a little more than that if it's not stuck. Try the Model T Ford Club of America (MTFCA) website. It would make a nice donor engine since the 1926-27 crankshafts are less prone to breakage than the earlier ones. The spark plugs are cool; they were originally sold by Monkey Wards.

Here's a dashboard oil pressure gauge by National Gauge of the type commonly used in the late teens and early 1920s, except it goes up to 75PSI. This makes me think it fits a high-performance car or something kind of special from that era. Any thoughts?

FS: Stromberg O-3 carburetor, in "Barn Find" condition. I believe this fits a Marmon 34 c. 1922. Note the distinctive choke horn. This type of carburetor was also used on some Pierce Arrows from the 1920's. This is a big carburetor, bore is approx 1 5/8. Looks mostly complete and rebuildable - the two screws holding the float bowl cover are missing but the float and needle valve are still here. Asking $100 not including shipping. Thanks for looking!

FS: one Edmunds & Jones "1908" "Black & Brass" tail lamp for a Model T Ford, ca. 1914, or possibly very late 1913, fits other makes as well. Refurbished, stripped to bare metal. Repairs were made to the fount collar but for the most part this light was left as-is. The glass is original. A burner is not included. This light was polished professionally after re-assembly. There are a few minor dings and scratches but otherwise this light looks very presentable. A nice original "black & brass" fount is included. Probably the biggest problem with this light is that there is a rattle in the top section that I can't get rid of. This would be a nice accessory for a speedster or for a driver - maybe not so great for a show car. Asking $150, you pay shipping. Thanks for looking!

FS: one C. M. Hall Tail Lamp, with a 1910 patent date, for a brass-era car. Some quick research on the internet leads me to believe this possibly fits a 1911 Franklin, but could be adapted to other makes as well. This light is in fair condition, as the body is fairly straight with only a few dents and dings and I don't see any fatigue cracks in the brass. The glass looks nice as well. The down side is that someone drilled a hole in the bottom of the fount and removed the burner in an ill-advised attempt to electrify it. Asking $80, you pay shipping. Thanks for looking!

Thanks for the tip. I'll give them a call.

Is there anyone who does Lost Wax casting in Yellow Brass? We're looking to have parts for brass-era head lamps and side lamps reproduced in small quantities (maybe a few dozen parts.) The gentlemen we were using previously had to retire. Apparently casting yellow brass is a little trickier than casting red brass or aluminum bronze, and there are just not a lot of guys who are willing to mess with it. Any suggestions?

I can't even begin to imagine just how spiffy this will look once it's mounted to that S-10 chassis.

You just don't see a lot of square Dietz lanterns. I believe Mercer used them, so they are sought after.

They're for a truck or commercial vehicle, mid to late teens. Note how the doors open from the bottom. Lights for passenger cars were fancier - these lights are utilitarian.

A (Nebraska) Fuller Touring Car showed up at the SoCal Holiday Motor Excursion a few years back. This would have been considered a luxury car in its time.

The engine looks to be about a 1914, maybe a little earlier.

Please check first with the local car clubs, they will in all likelihood direct you to someone who needs them or wants to save them. (I've acquired several loads of Model T parts through this sort of networking.) If that doesn't work, then put them out for random scrap collectors; you can at least say you tried. This is just free advice.